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BY 
DANIEL  O'CONNELL 


SAN   FRANCISCO 

THE   BANCROFT   COMPANY 
1891 


Copyright.  :?r)Q,  b\  T^.e  Fancir>/!  Confiany 


LIST    OK    THE    NAMES 
MENTIONED    IN   THIS    BOOK 

PAGE 

Argonaut,  The  -       71 

Alaska  Canning  Co.  (Louis  Sloss  &  Co.)  -                                34 

Bureau,  The  (S.  L.  Pereira)  -      55 

Baker  &  Hamilton  (Agricultural  Implements)         -  162 

Boulevard,  The  (B.  B.  Dobbas)  -       80 

Buckingham,  The  (M.  J.  Balfe)  141  Montgomery  Street        -  56 

Butler,  John  .       87 

Beard's  Winery  .             148 

Bergez  Restaurant                                                   -                 -  -                 -       25 

Carroll  &  Carroll                                                                  ...  1 
Coates,  C.                                                                 ....       99 

Carpy,  C.  &  Co.  71 

California  House  -     150 

Campi's  Italian  Restaurant  (I.  Cuenin)     -  73 

Clabrough,  Golcher  &  Co.  -       98 

Dunphy,  W.                                                    .                ...  26 

Del  Monte  Hotel                                                    -                -  -                -       32 

El  Monte  Hotel  24 

Erskine  (Cigars)  -       35 

Fitschen,  John  _              56 

Fay,  Edward  (Grand  Hotel  Saloon)                                   -  -                -     149 

Gundlach  &  Co.  (Native  Wines)                                 -  -                             140 

Ghiradelli  &  Co.  (417  Jackson  Street)  -        3 

Garcia,  Frank  (N.  E.  Cor.  Geary  and  Grant  Avenue)  64 

Goldman,  J.  (Cigars)  -     141 

Gibb,  J.  88 

Haraszthy,  Arpad  (California  Champagne)     -  -     129 

Hotaling,  A.  P.  (Cutter's  Whiskies)  54 

Hammam  Baths  -     160 

Inglenook  Vineyard     -  38 

Josselyn,  G.  M.  &  Co.  1 

Lick  House  100 

Lukin,  J.  A.  -       81 

Mint,  The  (E.  Edwards)  80 

Merchant's  Exchange  Saloon  (Jas.  Kearney)  -       80 

Mercantile  Lunch        -  72 

Moore,  Hunt  &  Co.  -       79 

Meinecke,  Chas.  &  Co.  17 

Maison  Riche  (Justin  Ladagnousj     -  -        8 

McMenomy,  J.  H.  (California  Market)  99 

Napa  Soda  Springs  -     160 

Oceanic  Steamship  Co.  19 

Occidental  Restaurant  (P.  Klein)      -  -       16 

Pommery  Sec  CWm.  Wolff  &  Co.)  11 

Perrier  Jouet  ( W.  B.  Chapman)  123  California  Street  1 

Roederer  Champagne  (Macondray  &  Co.)  427  Market  Street  108 

Rathjen  &  Co.      -  -     119 

Sherwood  &  Sherwood  (Wines,  Liquors  and  Imported  Groceries)        -  162 

Sresovich,  Luke  G.  &  Co.  -  -       70 

Taylor,  H.  W.  (Lumber  Merchant)  161 

Tortoni  (Pierre  Carrere)     -  -       81 

Wetmore,  Chas.  A.  (The  Sauternes  of  California)  88 

Wilmerding,  Kellog  &  Co.  ( Peruvian  Bitters)  -       63 

Wheeland  &  Collins  (Saloon  and  Restaurant)  158 


438903' 


CONTENTS 


Perrier,  Jouet  &  Co.  (W.  B.  Chapman,  agent,  123  California  Street) 

Inside  cover 

G.  M.  Josselyn  &  Co Next  to  inside  cover 

Carroll  &  Carroll "  " 

Introductory 3 

CHAP.  I.     The  Science  of  Cooking,  etc C> 

Pommery  Sec  (Wolff  &  Co.,  importers) 11 

CHAP.  II.     Setting  the  Table— The  Art  of  Drinking  Wines 13 

Charles  Meinecke  &  Co 17 

Oceanic  Steamship  Co 19 

CHAP.  III.     An  Incident  of  the  Cuisine— The  Cook's  Belief  in  the  Efficacy 

of  his  Art 20 

El  Monte  Hotel 24 

Bergez's  Restaurant 25 

William  M.  Dunphy 27 

CHAP.  IV.     How  Port  Wine  is  Made — The  Casa  dos  Lagares  of  the  Juinta...  28 

Hotel  Del  Monte...  32 

Louis  Sloss  &  Co 34 

W.  W*.  Erskine 35 

CHAP.  V.     Eating  and  Drinking  in  Egypt — How  the  Food  is  Prepared,  etc..  3<> 
The  Inglenook  Vineyard 38 

CHAP.  VI.     The  Cuisine  of  Other  Lands — The  Bonne- Bouche  of  the  African 

Epicure 43 

CHAP.  VII.     The  Discovery  of  Champagne— An  Old  Tradition  of  Reims, 

etc 50 

A.  P.  Hotaling  &  Co.... 54 

The  Bureau 55 

John  C.  Fitschen 5<; 

CHAP.  VIII.     Old  English  Inns — Oneofthe  Landmarks  of  London <;o 

Peruvian  Bitters <;;; 

CHAP.  IX.     The  Wines  used  by  the  Egyptians — The  Temperance  Enforced 

upon  Women (58 

Luke  G.  Sresovich  &  Co 70 

"The  Argonaut" 71 

C.  Carpy  &  Co 71 

Mercantile  Lunch 72 

Campi's  Italian  Restaurant 73 

CHAP.  X.     The  Art  of  Dinner  Service  and  Carving — Some  Hints  About  the 

Placing  of  Fish 75 

Moore,  Hunt  &  Co 79 

Merchant's  Exchange 80 


The  Mint 80 

The  Boulevard 80 

"  Lukin's,"  Maison  Tortoni 81 

CHAP.  XI.     Making  and  Drinking  of  Wine— The  Red  and  White  Wines  of 

the  Greeks,  etc 83 

Butler's 87 

Gibbs' 88 

The  Sauternes  of  California 89 

CHAP.  XII.     Rapid  Eating  one  of  the  Great  Evils  of  the  American  Social 

System— The  Three  Best  Digesters,  etc 92 

Clabrough,  Golcher  &  Co 98 

"Coates"' 99 

John  H.  McMenomy <  99 

The  Lick  House 100 

CHAP.  XIII.     Champagne  Lyrics 102 

Roederer  Champagne 108 

CHAP.  XIV.     An  Attack  Upon  the  Waiters  of  the  Old  Inu,  etc 112 

Rathjen  &  Co 119 

CHAP.  XV.     Appetite  Hereditary— Prohibited  Meats,  etc  123 

California  Champagne 129 

CHAP.  XVI.     The  Diet  of  Biain  Workers— Great  Thinkers  Usually  Liberal 

Eaters,  etc 134 

J.  Gundlach  &  Co 140 

Ben.  J.  Goldman 141 

CHAP.  XVII.     Dietary  of  British  Soldiers  in   Time  of  Peace— How  Food 

May  Be  Adulterated 145 

John  L.  Beard's  Winery 148 

Grand  Hotel  Saloon :..149 

CHAP.  XVIII.     Diet  Modified  by  Sexes— Female  Boarding  Schools 152 

Wheeland  &  Collins 158 

Napa  Soda  Springs 100 

Henry  W.  Taylor 161 

Sherwood  &  Sherwood 102 

Baker  &  Hamilton 162 

Hammam  Baths 160 

Conclusion...  .  ..160 


THOS.    MAGEE 

REAL  ESTATE  AGENT 

No.  20  MONTGOMERY  STREET 

SAN    FRANCISCO,  CAT,. 


INTRODUCTORY 

f?ATE  CANNOT  HARM  ME,  I  have  dined  to-day," 
sang  the  poet  of  a  period  when  bards  were  not  always 
sure  of  that  important  portion  of  life's  necessities.  In 
this  favored  land  the  percentage  of  those  who  are 
compelled  to  omit  this  pleasing  duty  is  small  indeed. 
The  question  is  not  "can  he  dine?"  but  "where  shall  he  dine/' 
so  various  and  inviting  are  the  places  where  he  may  take  his 
ease,  arid  tickle  his  appetite  according  to  the  extent  of  his  inclin- 
ation, and  the  measure  of  his  purse.  Moreover  there  is  a  charm  r* 
about  the  restaurant  life  of  San  Francisco  possessed  by  no  other 
city  on  this  continent.  This  is  a  mosaic,  as  it  were,  of  the  character- 
istics of  the  European  cafes.  If  the  man,  pondering  on  the  dinner 
problem,  sighs  for  the  plats  of  the  Genoese,  he  has  a  dozen  Italian 
restaurants  to  choose  from,  where  Italian  waiters  will  carry  his 
orders  to  Italian  cooks,  who  will  serve  him  Italian  dishes  breathing 
those  pungent  odors  so  delightful  to  the  nostrils  of  the  I/atin  race. 

If  he  would  have  the  cuisine  of  France,  there  is  a  large  field  | 
before  him.  Not  even  in  Paris  itself  is  there  a  greater  variety 
of  places  where,  from  the  minimum  to  the  maximum  sum,  he  may  be 
served  with  those  dishes  which  have  made  the  chefs  of  that  refined 
nation  the  monarchs  of  the  kitchen.  Nor  is  Germany  without  its 
representatives.  The  emigrant  from  fatherland,  as  far  as  the  affairs 
of  the  inner  man  are  concerned,  has  no  good  cause  to  feel  homesick 
in  this  city.  Spain,  Mexico,  Portugal,  China  and  Japan — all  offer 
to  their  wandering  children  those  dishes  which  are  associated  with 
the  land  of  their  birth, 
iii 

Do  you  Drink  ?    Then  Napa  Soda  is  your  Tipple 


iv  THE    INNER    N1AN 

The  progress  in  the  refinements  of  the  table  has  been  most 
marked  during  the  last  decade.  The  result  from  a  sanitary  point 
of 'view  is  most  gratifying.  Dyspepsia,  that  universal  curse  of  the 
American,  that  demon  which  thrives  upon  poorly  cooked  food, 
grease-impregnated,  and  digestion-proof,  has  comparatively  few 
slaves  in  this  capital  of  the  ultimate  west.  If  we  have  taught  the 
Frenchman  and  Italian  lessons  in  progress  and  free  institutions,  he 
has  repaid  us  amply  by  instructing  us  how  the  raw  material  may  be 
improved  by  art,  and  filled  us  with  respect  for  the  important  science 
of  the  kitchen.  His  influence  has  permeated  every  household.  We 
have  been  enlightened  upon  points  of  preparation  of  meats  before 
their  subjection  to  the  fire,  and  we  have  been  imbued  with  a  whole- 
some reverence  for  sauces,  and  a  faith  in  flavors  of  which  we  were 
devoid  before.  He  has  presided  over  our  Egyptian  fleshpots,  and 
thus  repaid  our  hospitality  a  hundred-fold.  Figuratively  seated  at 
his  feet  we  have  abjured  the  fallacy  that  a  man  does  not  merely 
eat  to  live,  but  that  the  pleasures  of  the  table,  when  keenly  but 
rationally  enjoyed,  occupy  a  large  space  in  the  sum  of  human 
comfort. 

Withal  we  really  have  no  knowledge  yet  of  how  well  off  we 
are  in  this  respect.  Occasionally  one  reads  in  the  newspaper  a 
description  of  some  new  restaurant  or  his  eye  is  attracted  by  the 
announcement  of  some  banquet,  the  publication  of  the  menu  con- 
cluding with  a  perfunctory  compliment  to  the  cooking  and  the 
service.  We  will  now,  to  use  a  hackneyed  but  useful  phrase,  supply 
a  long  felt  want,  and  in  "  The  Inner  Man  "  travel  from  restaurant  to 
restaurant,  go  into  the  salon,  examine  the  cabinet  patticulier,  visit 
the  kitchen,  chat  with  the  patron,  interview  monsieur  le  chef,  inquire 
from  whom  he  obtains  those  rough  blocks  from  which  he  fashions 
the  dishes  that  delight  the  epicures,  and  make  him  the  high  priest 
of  the  shrine  whose  threshold  is  barred  to  Dull  Care  and  its 
attendant  imps.  No  place  where  the  good  things  of  life  are 
provided  shall  fail  to  receive  suitable  mention  in  this  volume,  nor 
shall  its  merits  be  presented  in  aught  but  veracious  phrase,  for 
truth  is  the  basis  of  all  history. 


CHAPTER  I 

THE  SCIENCE  OF  COOKING — THE  GRIDIRON,  THE  THERMOMETER  OF  CIVILIZATION 
— EARLY  CALIFORNIAN  COOKING — Do  WE  OVER-EAT  IN  SAN  FRANCISCO? — 
FALLACIOUS  THEORIES  KEGARDING  EATING  AND  DRINKING — ECCENTRIC 
HABITS  OF  OTHER  COUNTRIES. 


ALIFORNIA'S   EARLIEST  SETTLER,  the  Span- 
iard, and  after  him   the   Mexican,    had  some   very 
sound  views  on  the  science  of  cooking.     The  grid-    i 
iron  is  the  thermometer  of  civilization,  but  the  naked 

coals  the  Californian's  grille  preceded  the  gridiron, 
giving  the  same,  if  indeed  not  superior  results.  In  proportion  as 
men  become  cultured,  and  well  to-do,  in  that  proportion  do  they 
give  up  frying  and  substitute  broiling.  In  the  wild,  ignorant  and 
unsettled  portions  of  this  country,  far  away  from  the  refinements 
of  the  cities,  meat  is  almost  always  fried ;  the  gridiron  is  little 
known.  Horace  Greeley  once  declared  on  his  return  from  a  visit 
to  Texas  that  among  other  civilizing  influences,  an  army  of  twenty 
thousand  cooks  was  needed  in  that  section.  But  that  is  over  a 
decade  ago,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  since  then  the  Lone  Star  State' 
has  seen  the  error  of  its  ways,  and  has  abandoned  the  frying  pan. 
The  rude  art  of  outdoor  cooking  of  the  Californian  is  to  this 
day  most  acceptable  to  the  epicure.  The  asado  or  meat 
broiled  on  live  coals,  is  one  of  the  few  methods  of  preparation 
which  can  make  the  flesh  of  an  animal  killed  a  few  hours  before, 
wholesome  and  palatable.  The  great  heat  to  which  the  meat  is 
immediately  subjected,  coagulates  the  albumen  on  the  surface,  and 
prevents  the  juices  from  flowing  out. 

From  time  to  time  we  hear  of  strange  and  startling  theories  in 
regard  to  eating  and  drinking.  Some  scientists  declare  that  only 
one  or  two  varieties  of  meats  or  fish  should  be  taken  at  a  time; 
that  there  should  be  no  drinking  at  meals,  and  that  the  appetite  is 
to  be  subdued  rather  than  guided.  '  'The  Man, ' '  says  one,  '  'who  gets 
up  from  his  meals  without  feeling  he  could  have  eaten  more  is  guilty 
of  a  sin  against  himself."  This  all  depends  upon  his  construction 


Ghiradelli's  Breakfast  Cocoa.     The  Best 


6  THE    INNER.    MAN 

of  the  word  satiety.  Certainly  he  who  departs  from  a  well- furnished 
table  without  feeling  that  he  has  eaten  just  as  much  as  his  appetite 
calls  for,  does  not  deserve  to  be  amply  entertained.  He  who  eats 
more  than  his  appetite  demands  is  a  glutton  and  is  rarely  found 
among  those  who  make  a  study  of  the  pleasures  of  the  table. 

We  have  everything  to  be  thankful  for  in  California  in  regard  to 
the  inner  man.  A  clever  Statistician  has  said  that  of  the  thirteen 
hundred  million  inhabitants  of  this  globe,  only  a  small  portion 
systematically  get  enough  to  eat.  The  majority  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  world  are  underfed.  How  few  in  San  Francisco  arise  in 
the  morning  not  knowing  where  or  how  they  shall  get  their  break- 
fast? In  Great  Britain,  where  among  the  upper  classes  the  art  of 
dining  has  been  carried  to  its  highest  perfection,  hundreds  of 
thousands  behold  the  morning  sun  with  this  problem  unsolved  in 
their  minds.  There  is  enough  wasted  in  the  streets,  about  the 
markets,  at  the  wharves,  and  vegetable  stands  to  provide  if  collected, 
for  all  the  hungry  tramps  the  city  could  muster.  And  not  tainted 
meats  or  fish,  or  poor  vegetables,  but  matter  which  in  the  very 
wantonness  of  our  plenty,  has  been  allowed  to  fall  in  the  dust  of  the 
streets. 

Do  we  over-eat  in  San  Francisco  ?  Has  the  number,  excellence 
and  cheapness  of  our  restaurants  inculcated  this  sin  ?  These  are 
questions  which  may  be  truthfully  answered  in  the  negative.  We  eat 
well,  but  excess  is  the  exception,  and  not  the  rule.  Among  the  civilized 
portions  of  all  society  in  these  times  the  number  of  those  who  over- 
eat is  very  limited.  In  the  old  civilizations  of  Persia  and  Rome,  and 
with  our  forefathers  in  Great  Britain  and  Northern  Europe,  gluttony 
was  a  prominent  if  not  universal  vice  among  those  who  could  obtain 
the  materials  on  which  to  be  gluttonous.  The  vice  is  a  relic  of 
savagery,  of  a  social  state  when  food  was  scarce,  or  at  least  uncertain, 
and  men  were  tempted  to  gorge  themselves  in  order  to  compensate 
for  the  famines  of  the  past,  and  anticipate  those  that  were  to  come. 
Then  again  savages  have  so  little  intellectual  culture,  and  so  few 
amusements,  that  the  gratification  of  the  appetite  has  no  limited 
restraints. 

Our  greatest  epicures  are  among  the  most  moderate  eaters. 
Savarin,  the  most  refined  of  writers  on  cookery  says  that  the  vice  of 
enormous  eating  is  in  general  too  disgusting  for  him  to  discuss.  All 
the  Bourbon  Kings  of  France  were  gourmands.  Louis  XIV  could 
eat  for  a  meal  four  platefuls  of  soup,  a  whole  pheasant,  a  partridge, 
a  plateful  of  salad,  mutton  hashed  with  garlic,  two  good  slices  of 


THE    INNER.    MAN  7 

ham,  a  dish  of  pastry  and  plenty  of  fruit  and  sweetmeats.  Louis 
XVIII  invented  the  famous  dish  truffles  £  la  paree  d?  ortolans.  He 
and  his  viaitre  d?  hotel,  the  Due  d'Escurs  composed  it  themselves  for 
the  first  time,  allowing  no  menial  to  approach.  Then  they  ate  of  it  to 
excess,  and  in  the  night  the  Due  was  taken  very  ill.  He  sent  to  rouse 
the  King  whom  he  feared  might  have  a  similar  attack.  His  Majesty 
\\asveryangry.  "What,"  said  he,  "what,  dying  of  my  truffles  a 
la  paree?  Ah,  I  was  right,  I  always  said  I  had  the  better  stomach." 
The  Due  died,  but  the  King  continued  to  enjoy  his  famous  dis- 
covery. 

M.  de  Semblacy,  Bishop  of  Bourges,  who  ate  six  meals  a  day 
and  never  rose  satisfied,  attributed  his  magnificent  appetite  to  the 
fact  that  he  said  grace  not  only  before  and  after  each  meal,  but  at 
the  removal  of  each  service. 

A  man  used  to  go  every  Thursday  for  years  to  a  famous  res- 
taurant in  Paris,  and  eat  one  after  another  the  forty  odd  soups  on 
the  menu.  After  that  he  had  a  meringue  glace  au  citron,  and  went 
away  without  having  drank  a  drop  of  wine. 

A  well-known  restaurateur,  Brebant,  had  a  customer  who  was 
ashamed  of  the  immense  appetite  with  which  nature  had  gifted  him. 
He  would  go  to  Brebant,  and  order  a  dinner  for  himself  and  party 
of  eight  friends.  He  told  the  restaurant  keeper  that  he  went  in  for 
military  punctuality.  When  his  guests  did  not  arrive  at  the 
appointed  hour,  he  ordered  the  waiters  to  serve,  and  ate  all  the  nine 
dinners  himself,  grumbling  audibly  all  the  time  about  the  impolite- 
ness of  his  friends.  He  carried  out  this  farce  habitually. 

An  amateur  gourmand  wished  to  enter  into  an  eating  match 
;with  L,e  Mardelay,  proprietor  of  the  Rocher  de  Cancale. 

'  *  Shall  we  settle  the  menu  at  once  ?  "  he  asked  of  Cancale,  l  *  Of 
what  use?"  replied  Cancale,  "we  will  eat  whatever  there  is  accord- 
ing to  the  morning's  market,  beginning  with  twelve  dozen  oysters 
apiece,  twenty-four  cutlets,  three  capons" — "Each?"  asked  the 
challenger,  "Of  course,"  said  L,e  Mardelay,  "and  for  the  rest  we 
will  take  whatever  there  is."  The  rash  man  went  away  and  did 
not  come  back. 

Gus  Bisson,  a  friend  of  Savarin,  drank  eight  bottles  of  wine  to 
breakfast  every  morning,  without  seeming  to  feel  any  effects  from  it. 

English  men  of  the  last  century  habitually  ate  and  drank  to 
excess.  Horace  Walpole,  writing  to  a  friend  who  urged  him  to  give 
up  his  temperate  diet,  said  that  he  daily  saw  men  who  were  mountains 
of  roast  beef,  and  seemed  just  roughly  hewn  out  into  human  out 


A  Napa  Soda  Lemonade  is  a  Luxury 


i>  THE}    INNKR. 

lines,  like  the  giant  rock  at  Pratolino.  He  shuddered  when  he  saw 
them  brandish  their  knives  in  the  act  to  carve,  and  looked  upon 
them  as  savages  who  devoured  one  another. 

At  Dolly's  chop-house  in  Queens  Heap  Passage,  near  Ludgate 
Hill  in  London,  the  ingenious  anatomist  and  chemist,  Dr.  George 
Fordyce,  dined  every  day  for  more  than  twenty  years.  He  believed 
that  since  many  animals  thrived  on  one  meal  a  day,  so  could  men. 
He  entered  the  chop-house  at  four  in  the  afternoon.  A  silver  tank- 
ard of  strong  ale,  a  bottle  of  port,  and  a  measure  containing  a 
quarter  of  a  pint  of  brandy  were  placed  before  him,  and  a  piece  of 
rump  steak  weighing  a  pound  and  a  half  was  put  on  the  grille. 
While  the  steak  was  preparing  he  ate  a  grilled  chicken,  or  other 
similar  morsel.  Then  he  drank  a  glass  of  brandy,  and  started  in  to 
eat  his  steak, -during  the  consumption  of  which  he  drank  his  ale  and 
port.  When  he  had  finished  his  steak  he  drank  the  rest  of  the 
brandy.  This  meal  occupied  him  just  one  hour  and  a  half,  and  then 
he  hurried  away  to  his  professional  engagements,  and  took  no  other 
food  during  the  day. 

MAISON  RICHE.— Brillat  Savarin,  whose  name  shall  forever 
remain  dear  to  the  epicures  of  all  climes,  has  said  that  when  every 
other  pleasure  palls,  the  delights  of  the  table  alone  remain  to 
smooth  man's  path  through  life.  Justin  Ladagnous,  an  earnest 
believer  in  the  doctrines  of  this  great  apostle  of  the  refinements  of  the 
table,  has  quaintly  remarked  that  the  elixir  vitos  is  not  found  in  the 
grim  regime  of  the  ascetic — the  pulse,  and  pease  of  the  recluse,  but 
in  generous  food,  eaten  in  moderation  and  in  good  company, 
v  In  January  1887  Justin  Ladagnous,  with  his  partner  John  Somali, 
recently  deceased,  opened  the  Maison  Riche,  on  the  northeast  corner 
of  Geary  street  and  Grant  avenue.  It  occupies  three  upper  floors  of 
the  large  building  where  it  is  situated,  and  has  three  entrances,  Grant 
avenue,  Geary  street  and  Morton  street.  The  dining-rooms  are  on 
the  first  floor,  and  on  the  upper  floors  are  sleeping  apartments  and 
reception  rooms,  for  the  Maison  Riche  has  the  dual  character  of 
hotel  and  restaurant.  Mr.  Ladagnous  attends  to  the  office  and 
main  dining-room,  and  caters  and  exercises  a  general  supervision 
over  the  other  departments.  Cool,  pleasant  and  artistic  is  the  big 
dining-room,  with  its  tessellated  marble  floors,  its  wainscot  of  porce- 
lain tiles,  and  the  soothing  splash  of  the  fountain  in  the  center. 
Here  the  tranquil  diner  pays  little  heed  to  the  busy  hum  from  the 
street  beneath,  as  the  sympathetic  waiter  places  before  him  the  most 


THE    INNER    NIAN  9 

delicate  creations  of  the  cook's  art,  and  thrills  with  the  self-conscious- 
ness of  the  perfection  of  the  service.  There  is  no  clatter,  no  noise, 
no  confusion.  All  is  quietly  systematic,  and  Repose,  that  divinity 
inseparable  from  the  perfect  dinner,  is  here  enshrined, the  goddess  of 
the  temple.  Through  the  art-glass  windows  the  light  strikes  softly 
in,  so  even  the  garish  rays  of  the  sun  are  subdued  to  be  in  harmony 
with  the  intense  peacefulness  of  the  place.  The  same  freedom  from 
rush  and  clatter  reigns  in  the  corridors,  in  the  snug  tete-a-tete  cabi- 
nets, and  even  in  the  kitchen,  where  monsieur  le  chef  blends  and 
tastes,  and  marshals  his  skillful  assistants  to  conquer  insipidity,  and 
minister  to  the  most  fastidious  appetites. 

The  banquet-hall  of  the  Maison  Riche  has  been  the  scene  of 
many  a  brilliant  entertainment.  To  enumerate  the  festal  dinners 
that  have  been  held  in  this  artistically  furnished  and  comfortable 
apartment  would  exceed  the  capacity  of  this  volume.  It  is  suffi- 
cient to  say  that  in  every  instance  those  gatherings  have  been  a 
success,  and  the  skill  of  the  chef,  and  the  health  of  the  cook,  and 
of  Justin  Ladagnous,  have  not  been  the  least  enthusiastic  toasts  of 
the  evening. 

About  a  year  ago  a  discussion  arose  among  epicures  in  regard 
to  expensive  menus,  and  the  amount  that  one  might  pay  for  a  grand 
dinner,  and  receive  the  full  value  of  his  money.  Mr.  Justin 
Ladagnous  was  asked  as  an  expert  to  give  his  opinion  as  to  the 
resources  of  civilization  in  the  gastronomic  line,  and  this  gen- 
tlemen decided  that  $60  a  plate  might  be  easily  expended  in  a  first- 
class  dinner  at  the  Maison  Riche.  As  the  details  of  such  a  banquet 
cannot  fail  to  be  interesting  to  epicures  we  shall  quote  from  that 
gentleman : 

"In  the  first  place  to  give  a  grand  dinner  with  the  flowers, 
decorations  and  table  service,  and  a  lot  of  little  things  to  make  the 
surroundings  of  a  really  superb  repast  perfect,  which  every  man 
who  is  a  good  liver  and  not  afraid  of  the  cost,  understands,  will  cost 
$25  a  plate.  Now  it  is  the  wines  that  really  make  a  dinner  expen- 
sive. It  will  be  as  reasonable  to  harness  a  fast  horse  to  a  scavenger's 
cart  as  to  ask  a  gentleman  to  sit  down  to  a  $25  dinner  with  any  but 
the  best  of  wines.  We  would  not  leel  like  furnishing  a  grand  din- 
ner unless  the  wines  were  the  very  best  that  our  cellar  affords.  Now, 
about  the  cost.  We  will  suppose  a  little  party  of  eight  sitting  down 
to  a  $25  breakfast  or  dinner.  Of  the  Sauterne  eight  glasses  would 
go  to  a  bottle,  one  for  each  guest.  Of  Bordeaux,  half  a  bottle  to 
each,  Burgundy  one  pint  each,  Champagne  one-half  bottle  each, 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


10  THE    INNER 

and  this  is  by  no  means  excessive.     It  frequently  happens  that  the 
guests  will  consume  more  than  that,  particularly  of  Champagne. 

"With  the  oysters,  of  course,  should  be  served  Montrochet. 
This  is  a  white  Burgundy,  and  one  of  the  finest  of  that  class  of 
wines.  It  is  remarkable  for  its  exquisite  delicacy  and  has  a  fine  body 
combined  with  a  most  pleasing  dryness.  The  vintage  of  1864  costs 
no  more  than  $15  a  bottle,  but  if  the  host  should  select  Chateau 
Yquem,  of  '68,  he  can  have  it  at  $10  a  bottle. 

"  Now,  with  the  soup  comes  sherry,  and  we  can  serve  Amon- 
tillado, the  magnificent  dry  production  of  Cordova,  which  every 
connoisseur  knows  to  be  the  greatest  of  all  dry  Spanish  wines,  at 
$12  a  bottle.  Next  we  come  to  the  German  wines,  and  will  give 
you  a  genuine  Schloss  Johannisberger  at  $25  a  bottle,  a  price  which 
I  assure  you  leaves  us  but  a  small  margin  of  profit.  This  is  the 
superlative  wine  of  the  Rhine,  and  grows  on  the  estate  presented 
by  the  Emperor  of  Austria  to  the  late  Prince  Metternich.  No 
German  wine  is  more  esteemed;  none  commands  a  higher  price,  and 
but  very  few  people  can  afford  to  drink  it.  Then  there  are  such 
wines  as  Romance  Conti,  of  '64,  and  the  famous  lyachryma  Christi, 
from  the  island  of  Cyprus,  at  $15  and  $12  a  bottle.  The  Lachryma 
Christi  is  neither  a  white  nor  a  red  wine.  It  is  remarkably  clear 
with  a  royal  flavor,  and  is  always  at  big  dinners  served  after  the 
Champagne. ' ' 

The  Maison  Riche  has  its  prices  graded  for  all  good  livers,  and 
the  service  is  the  same  to  all.  The  difference  between  it  and  Del- 
monico's  of  New  York,  is  in  favor  of  our  side  of  the  continent. 
There,  the  man  whose  purse  is  not  long,  well-filled  and  bound  by 
loose  strings,  will  be  apt  to  find  himself  out  of  place  in  that  lux- 
urious and  expensive  cafe.  Not  so  with  the  Maison  Riche.  The 
excellent  table  cT  hote  dinner  with  good  vin  ordinaire  is  served  in 
the  large  dining-room  at  $1.50  a  plate,  and  a  still  more  elaborate 
repast  in  the  private  dining-rooms  at  $2.50  a  plate.  And  what  din- 
ners they  are  to  be  sure,  blossoms  culled  from  all  the  gardens 
of  this  State  where  the  good  things  grow.  Meats  that  have  gath- 
ered flavor  from  rich,  luxurious  grasses,  fruits  which  seem  almost 
too  beautiful  to  be  amalgamated  with  our  human  clay,  fish  which 
carry  the  fresh  suggestions  of  the  ocean  with  them,  vegetables  deli- 
cious enough  to  constitute  in  themselves  a  repast,  and  confitures  as 
tempting  as  the  rosy  lips  of  sweet  sixteen. 

Many  of  the  most  distinguished  people  who  have  visited  San 
Francisco,  have  enjoyed  the  good  things  served  at  this  admirable 


THE)    INNER    N1AN  11 

restaurant.  Sara  Bernhardt,  the  immortal,  has  feasted  here,  and 
men  and  women  of  high  rank  in  the  domain  of  art,  letters  and 
politics,  have  been  entertained  at  the  tables  of  the  Maison  Riche. 
Could  the  brilliant  scenes  which  have  •  taken  place  in  the  great 
banqueting  hall,  the  good  things  said,  the  jests  made  when  the  wine 
went  round,  the  songs  sung  when  the  champagne  bubbled  in  the 
glass,  be  reproduced,  what  a  brilliant  chapter  in  the  festal  life  of  this 
hospitable  city  it  would  make!  Here  has  the  man  who  won  the 
laurel  crown,  received  the  appreciative  applause  of  his  admiring 
friends,  and  listened  with  exultant  heart  to  his  health  drank  with 
all  the  honors. 

This  Home  of  Good  Cheer  is  a  credit  to  San  Francisco,  and  its 
management,  and  has  won  a  lofty  place,  which  it  must  ever  retain 
in  the  appreciation  of  those  who  delight  in  the  higher  art  of  the 
kitchen— the  best  ministrations  to  the  wants  of  the  inner  man. 

POMMERY  SEC. — There  is  a  charm  in  those  words  which 
thrills  every  one  of  epicurean  taste  who  has  inhaled  the  aroma, 
and  sipped  the  sparkles  from  a  goblet  of  this  most  delicious  wine. 
Its  popularity  on  the  Pacific  Coast  is  a  credit  to  the  good  taste  of 
the  ultimate  West,  for  it  has  been  of  steady  and  ever  increasing 
growth.  Heralded  as  the  favorite  wine  of  the  best  known  con- 
noisseurs and  royalty  of  the  old  world,  its  merits  were  at  once 
recognized,  and  its  character  appreciated  by  the  refined  o£  the 
new.  And  not  among  the  least  of  these  is  the  fact  that  unlike  most 
of  the  pleasures  of  this  life,  there  is  no  sorrow,  no  indisposition 
in  the  wake  of  Pommery  Sec.  It  stands  alone  as  one  of  the  few 
keen  enjoyments  in  this  vale  of  sorrows  where  remorse  for  indul- 
gence has  no  place  in  its  train.  None  but  pleasant  memories,  and 
the  metis  sana  and  corpore  sano  attend  upon  the  devotees  of  Pom- 
mery Sec. 

The  late  Madam  Pommery  was  in  every  respect  a  most  remark- 
able woman.  She  possessed  the  faculty  of  discrimination  to  the 
extent  of  selecting  the  best  people  to  manage  her  vast  interests, 
and  finding  for  each  guest  that  place  where  his  peculiar  talents  would 
have  the  widest  scope,  and  conduce  most  to  the  prosperity  of  the 
entire  management.  The  members  of  the  firm  now  are  Louis 
Pommery,  Comtesse  de  Polignac  and  Henry  Vasnier  the  experienced 
directeur,  to  whose  great  adminstrative  capacity  and  unswerving 
fidelity  to  the  interests  of  the  business,  the  elevated  position  that 
Pommery  Sec  now  holds,  is  largely  due.  The  firm  has  ever  held  to  one 


Napa  Soda  Water  Cures  Dyspepsia 


12  THE}    INKER.     N1AJX 

steadfast  motive,  one  unswerving  purpose,  namely,  the  production  of 
a  high  grade  of  champagne  of  uniform  quality,  regardless  of  cost. 
Therefore  while  their  champagne  stock  is  the  largest  in  the  \vorld 
it  also  commands  the  highest  price  in  the  market.  They  paid  in 
1889  the  enormous  sum  of  $3,000,000  for  one-sixth  of  the  entire 
fine  vintage  of  that  year.  The  importation  of  Pommery  Sec  last 
year  for  the  United  States  was  74,576  cases,  out  of  which  the 
Pacific  Coast  consumed  10,800  cases,  a  truly  remarkable  showing  for 
its  population,  and  the  most  convincing  proof  of  the  high  esteem  in 
which  this  wine  is  held.  In  evidence  of  the  extreme  care  used  in 
placing  none  but  a  perfect  wine  upon  the  market  is  the  circum- 
stance that  the  house  of  Pommery  has  in  one  season  been  known 
to  destroy  several  hundred  thousand  bottles  because  the  wine  did 
not,  for  some  slight  reason,  come  up  to  the  high  standard  they  had 
established.  In  view  of  such  broad  and  conscientious  principles,  it 
is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  plaudits,  and  endorsements  from  all 
sides  are  hearty  and  numerous.  On  one  occasion  at  a  banquet  at 
which  the  Prince  of  Wales  sat  with  some  of  the  leading  nobility,  a 
witty  lady  of  title  produced  the  following  impromptu  acrostic: 

Prince  of  wines,  and  princes'  wine, 

Only  thy  presence  is  nectar  divine, 

Many  have  chanted  thy  praises,  Oh  draught  I 

Many  a  bumper  to  thee  has  been  quaffed, 

Endless  the  joy  that  was  born  with  thy  birth, 

Radiant  gem  of  the  wines  of  the  earth; 

Youth  cometh  with  thee  to  bloom  in  our  hearts, 

Sorrow  before  thee  forever  departs, 

Eyes  sparkle  brightly  with  ecstatic  glee, 

Care  flys  wherever  we  touch  lips  to  thee. 

The  sole  agents  for  Pommery  Sec  on  the  Pacific  Coast  are  Wil- 
liam Wolff  &  Co.,  to  whom  much  of  the  success  of  this  wine  upon 
the  Pacific  Coast  is  due.  Mr.  Wolff  is  also  president  of  the  Pommery 
Sec  Club,  an  organization  composed  of  some  of  the  best  known  bon- 
vivants  of  San  Francisco. 


CHAPTER    II 

SETTING  THE  TABLE — THE  ART  OF  DRINKING  WINES — HINTS  ABOUT  THE  HANDLING 
OP  WINES— THE  NECESSITY  OP  FLOWERS  AS  AN  ORNAMENT. 


O  SET  A  TABLE  seems,  perhaps,  very  easy,but  to 
,set  it  properly  and  tastefully  is  not  such  an  easy 
matter.  Place  the  table  in  the  center  of  the  dining-room, 
under  the  chandelier,  and  see  to  it  that  it  is  perfectly 
steady;  that  is  to  say  that  there  is  no  danger  of  its  being 
shaken  while  the  dinner  is  in  progress.  Should  it  not  rest  firmly, 
perhaps  an  old  relic,  in  the  shape  of  a  Bland  Dollar,  could  be  made 
serviceable  by  placing  it  under  one  of  the  feet.  See  to  it  that  there 
is  plenty  of  space  between  each  cover;  it  is  annoying  to  come  in 
contact  with  every  move  of  your  neighbor.  A  table  for  six  persons 
should  be  six  feet  long.  Take  a  woolen  cloth  and  put  it  over  the  * 
table  and  then  place  a  linen  cloth  on  top  of  it,  this  will  deaden  the 
noise  of  plates  and  glasses.  Flowers  should  never  be  absent  from  the 
table  when  you  have  guests;  they  can  be  procured  at  all  seasons. 
A  large  basket  or  bouquet  should  be  placed  in  the  center  of  the 
table;  a  large  bouquet  on  the  right  side  for  each  lady;  and  a  small 
boutonniere  for  each  gentleman,  also  on  the  right  side  of  the  cover. 
On  each  side  of  the  center  piece  place  a  fruit  stand,  nicely  arranged 
with  the  choicest  fruits  of  the  season.  Next  to  this  place  a  compo- 
tier  with  assorted  cakes.  Place  celery,  olives  or  radishes  symmetri- 
cally in  the  space  that  is  left  between  the  centre  and  the  covers. 
Fish  knives,  soup  spoons  arid  oyster  forks  must  be  placed  on  the 
right  side  of  the  plate  and  the  fork  on  the  other  side.  If  desired, 
place  fancy  pieces  on  the  table  (pieces  man  fees);  but  as  the  foregoing 
items  pertain  only  to  a  dinner  for  six  persons  it  would  crowd  out 
much  available  space.  Napkins  can  be  arranged  in  various  styles 
and  figures;  into  flowers  or  any  other  desired  form.  The  latest 
and  most  fashionable  way  is  to  arrange  them  folded  plainly,  so  as  to 
show  the  monogram  of  the  family.  A  small  salt-cellar  should  be 
placed  by  each  cover,  to  avoid  asking  the  servant  for  it.  Menus, 
either  written  or  printed,  should  be  placed  at  each  cover.  It  is  not  a 


Indigestion  Dies  where  Napa  Soda  Lives 


14  THE}  IIsINER 

breach  of  etiquette  to  refuse  a  course  you  do  not  desire;  by  knowing 
what  is  coming  you  can  with  propriety  refuse  a  course  and  take  the 
next  one.  About  ten  minutes  before  the  commencing  of  dinner  fill  the 
decanters  with  Sauterne  and  with  Sherry  and  place  the  same  on  the 
table.  Nearly  every  family  of  means  is  in  the  habit  of  giving  a  few 
dinners  during  the  year  to  its  friends.  As  a  matter  of  course  the 
members  of  the  family  are  in  return  invited  to  "dine  out."  If  you 
invite  your  friends  to  dinner  you  should  not  wish  them  to  go  away 
dissatisfied.  It  should  not  be  forgotten  that  much  depends  on  the 
appearance  of  the  table,  and  by  the  manner  of  serving  the  courses.  In 
fact  more  success  can  be  attained  by  studied  attention  to  the  room,  the 
tables  and  the  serving  of  the  courses,  than  in  the  preparation  of  costly 

•  viands.  On  entering  the  dining-room  the  first  object  which  strikes 
the  eye  is  the  table.  If  the  table  is  void  of  flowers,  and  the  other 
side  decorations,  including  olives,  radishes  and  celery,  tastefully 
arranged  wine  glasses  and  napkins,  an  impression  is  given  of  a  board- 
ing-house table.  On  the  contrary  when  you  see  a  beautifully  deco- 
rated and  artistically  arranged  table,  the  heart  is  immediately 

s  gladdened.  A  proper  regard  should  be  paid  to  the  comfort  of  the 
guests  as  regards  temperature.  Have  the  room  neither  too  cold  nor 
too  warm.  The  temperature  should  never  exceed  sixty  degrees. 

x  The  dining-room  should  be  well  aired  before  dinner  commences. 
Great  care  should  be  taken  that  the  dinner  is  served  hot.  Noises 
/  with  plates  and  glasses  should  be  avoided.  There  is  as  much 
system  in  serving  a  dinner  as  there  is  in  running  a  railroad,  or  in 
any  other  business.  French  dinners  are  generally  served  in  three 
main  courses,  viz.,  Releves,  Entrees,  and  R6tis;al\  the  rest  are  con- 
sidered side  courses.  It  depends  entirely  on  the  taste  of  the  host  as 
to  how  many  main  courses  he  desires  served.  Naturally  what  you 
shall  serve  will  depend  entirely  on  what  there  is  in  market  at  the 
season.  For  instance,  you  canuot  serve  brook-trout  in  January,  or 
canvas-back  during  the  months  of  June,  July,  August  or  September. 
However,  the  very  best  in  the  market  should  invariably  be  selected. 
Care  should  be  taken  to  have  the  wines  at  the  right  temperature. 
Sherry,  Sauterne,  Chablis  and  Rhine  wines  should  always  be  served 
cold.  Champagne  should  be  served  very  cold,  almost  at  the  freez- 
ing point.  Bordeaux  and  Burgundy  should  be  kept  twelve  hours 
before  dinner  in  a  room  at  a  temperature  of  seventy  degrees.  Ser- 
vants should  be  instructed  not  to  fill  the  glasses  more  than  three- 
fourths  full;  for  guests  are  in  danger  of  soiling  their  dresses,  and, 
again  it  is  not  considered  good  form.  The  art  of  knowing  exactly 


THE;  INNER   IVLAX  15 

how  and  when  and  where  to  drink  wine,  belongs  only  to  the 
experienced  epicure;  to  understand  minutely  the  proper  wines  to  pro- 
vide for  his  guests, -belongs  only  to  a  house-master  gifted  with  refined 
taste.  A  picture  of  a  great  artist  requires  certain  light,  and  in  fact 
a  surrounding  of  favorable  accessories  to  enable  us  to  appreciate  the 
talent  of  the  painter;  just  as  a  woman,  however  regal  may  be  her 
beauty,  neither  ignores  nor  disdains  to  heighten  her  charms  by 
harmonious  accord  and  judicious  contrast.  So  it  is  figuratively  with 
wine:  the  art  of  drinking  the  superior  wines  is  also  a  science.  The 
first  essential  being  a  thorough  acquaintance  with  the  different 
characteristics  distinguishing  the  respective  wines  to  be  produced 
on  the  table.  To  know  exactty  what  wines  to  serve  with  certain 
meats,  so  as  to  better  appreciate  their  flavor,  observing  the  judicious 
graduating  scale,  allow  each  wine  its  appropriate  entrance  and 
exit.  After  studying  the  bill  of  fare,  it  should  be  decided  which  are 
the  wines  to  be  offered  arid  in  what  order  they  are  to  be  partaken. 
The  selected  bottles  should  be  taken  from  the  cellar  four  hours 
previous  to  the  repast,  cautiously  carrying  them  into  the  pantry  in 
the  same  horizontal  position  they  had  in  the  cellar  and  in  the  same 
sense,  so  that  the  dregs  or  lees  may  remain  at  the  bottom  of  the 
bottle;  particular  attention  must  be  given  not  to  shake  the  bottles 
when  removing  them  from  the  cellar  to  the  pantry.  The  bottles 
should  not  be  decanted  until  just  before  drinking,  in  order  to  pre- 
serve the  aroma  and  bouquet.  The  decanter  into  which  wine  is  to 
be  poured,  ought  to  be  of  a  slightly  tepid  heat  in  Winter,  but  the 
wine  must  not  be  heated.  In  what  order  should  the  wine  be  served  ? 
The  following  rules  should  be  observed  for  the  proper  accordance  of 
wines  with  meats;  with  fish  white  wines;  with  meat  the  fuller  red 
wines;  at  the  end  of  the  repast  the  oldest  red  wines;  at  the  end  of 
dessert  the  liqueurs  and  sparkling  white  wines.  White  wines 
ought  to  be  drank  very  cold.  On  a  point  of  view,  of  flavor,  or  taste, 
the  liquorous  white  wines,  such  as  those  of  Sauternes,  have  two 
schools  among  epicures:  the  one  perferring  this  wine  at  dessert,  the 
other  at  the  commencement  of  the  repast,  with  the  fish.  The  rule 
for  the  degration  of  red  wines  is  to  commence  by  the  youngest  and 
least  celebrated.  We  shall  see  in  what  manner  these  rules  are 
applied  by  epicures.  Some  spoonfuls  of  soup  having  by  their  soft  heat 
prepared  the  palate  and  stomach  to  fill  their  useful  and  agreeable 
functions,  the  least  drop  of  Madeira  gives  these  organs  all  the  neces- 
sary activity.  With  oysters,  following  salmon  or  turbot  appear  the 
grand  rather  dry  liquorous  Bordeaux,  which  we  prefer  to  iced 


Ladies  Drink  Napa   Soda  for  Complexion 


10  XHK   INNKR   IVIAN 

Champagne  used  in  the  North.  As  soon  as  the  fish  have  been 
removed,  the  butler  ceases  to  serve  them.  When  the  cook  has 
served  the  meats,  the  fine  ordinary  and  the  superior  Bourgeois  of 
Medoc,  full  of  body,  purple  color  and  perfumed  bouquet  are  pro- 
duced. It  is  with  roast  meat,  venison,  etc.,  that  are  served 
the  racy  and  capital  first  growths  of  "  Saint-Emilion"  and 
Burgundy.  When  toward  the  middle  of  the  repast,  the  guests  have 
at  this  satisfactory  state  of  the  taste,  been  now  prepared  by  a  series 
of  skillful  sensations,  the  grand  red  wines  of  Medoc  make  their 
triumphal  entry  and  the  butler  proudly  announces  their  names  and 
dates:  Chateau-Margaux  1864,  Chateau-Lafite  1869,  Chateau- 
Latour  1870.  After  those  wines  the  rich  Sauternes  may  again  be 
finely  tasted  as  well  as  some  glasses  of  sparkling  Champagne  ! 

THE  OCCIDENTAL  RESTAURANT— Pierre  Klein,  the 
proprietor  of  the  Occidental  Restaurant,  332  Bush  street,  is  among 
the  pioneer  and  most  popular  restaurateurs  of  San  Francisco.  The 
original  "  Occidental  "  was  on  Washington  street,  and  here  in  the 
"fifties"  a  number  of  choice  spirits  used  to  congregate  and  enjoy 
the  good  things  that  Pierre  provided  for  them.  There  was  in  fact 
a  regular  dining-club  of  the  young  men  of  that  time  at  the  Occi- 
dental. The  best  carver  used  to  sit  at  the  head  of  the  table,  and 
to  the  most  experienced  salad  mixer,  the  bowl  of  cool,  crisp  lettuce 
was  passed.  But  Washington  street  became  too  remote  from  the 
city's  center  for  Klein's  increasing  business.  Nor  was  the  old 
Occidental  large  enough  to  accommodate  his  patrons.  So  some 
years  ago  the  Occidental  was  transferred  to  the  present  handsome 
brick  building  at  332  Bush  street.  The  lower  portion  is  divided 
into  two  dining-halls,  the  inner  of  which  is  mostly  used  by  ladies, 
though  no  special  reservation  is  made  in  this  respect.  The  private 
dining-rooms  upstairs  are  elegantly  and  comfortably  furnished,  and 
so  arranged  that  several  can  be  thrown  into  one  long  banqueting 
hall.  It  would  be  difficult  to  say  for  what  specially  good  thing  the 
Occidental  is  remarkable.  Everything  that  conies  from  the  kitchen 
is  artistic,  and  the  service  is  prompt,  while  the  utmost  neatness  every- 
where prevails.  If  one  might  exercise  a  preference  it  is  for  the 
game  dinners  at  the  Occidental  during  the  Winter  season.  Pierre 
Klein  has  a  knack  of  securing  the  plumpest  and  biggest  canvas-back 
duck  in  the  market,  and  flanking  them  wi{h  teal,  mallard,  sprig, 
everything  of  the  wild  duck  family  that  flies  over  the  marsh.  To 
make  the  duck  dinner  complete,  the  Occidental  cellar  contains  fine 


THE   INNER   MAN  17 

imported  Burgundies  and  the  best  of  Champagnes  and  Sauternes. 
Mr.  Klein  is  also  noted  for  his  fine  discrimination  in  California  wines, 
and  the  very  best  of  the  native  vintages  are  set  before  those .  guests 
who  have  faith  in  the  viticultural  productions  of  the  coast.  The 
care  used  in  the  cooking  of  these  game  dinners  is  extreme.  If  the 
epicure  wants  a  sixteen-minute  duck,  or  a  bird  which  has  been 
eighteen  minutes  exposed  to  the  fire,  he  may  be  assured  that  the 
chef  will  not  err  a  second  either  on  the  side  of  expedition  or  delay. 
Mr.  Klein  has  moreover  the  advantage  of  being  himself  a  sportsman, 
and  is  so  well  acquainted  with  those  localities  from  which  the  primest 
wild  duck  comes,  that  he  is  never  in  danger  of  being  deceived.  It 
is  not  necessary  to  enumerate  the  many  excellent  things  for  which 
the  Occidental  is  remarkable.  Its  lunches,  a  la  table  d'hote,  though 
most  moderate  in  price,  are  held  in  high  esteem  by  the  good  livers 
of  this  city.  The  breakfasts  and  dinners  are  equally  good,  and  com- 
fort, neatness,  and  promptitude  everywhere  obtain. 

CHARLES  MEINECKE  &  CO.— The  wines  of  Ay  from  an 
early  date  found  favor  in  the  eyes  of  poets   and   princes,  and   one 

has  sung: 

/ 

Ay  produces  the  best  wine — 

I  call  the  world  to  witness  this 
Though  you  may  for  Rheims  opine 

Ay  produces  the  best  wine, 
It  ranks  the  first  and  the  most  fine. 

The  largest  Champagne  establishment  at  Ay  is  that  of  Messrs. 
Deutz  and  Gelderman  whose  extra  dry  Gold  Lack  Champagne 
has  been  long  and  favorably  known  on  this  coast  through  the 
energetic  exertions  of  their  agents  here,  Charles  Meinecke  &  Co., 
314  Sacramento  street.  The  cuvees  of  Deutz  and  Gelderman  con- 
sisting usually  of  50,000  gallons  each,  are  made  in  a  vat  of  gigantic 
proportions.  Their  splendid  range  of  cellars  now  comprises  eight 
long  and  lofty  galleries  no  less  than  seventeen  feet  wide,  and  the 
same  number  of  feet  in  height,  and  of  the  aggregate  length  of 
2,200  yards.  They  are  capable  of  containing  several  million  bottles 
of  Champagne  in  addition  to  a  large  quantity  of  wine  in  cask. 
Gold  Lack  Sec  is  held  in  high  estimation  by  the  connoisseurs  of 
the  old  world,  and  to-day  it  is  the  favorite  at  numerous  regimental 
messes,  and  the  principal  hotels.  In  the  Clubs  of  this  city  as  well 
as  the  houses  of  our  best  known  epicures  this  delicious  wine  is 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


18  THE;  INNER   MAN 

always  in  demand.  Its  bouquet,  and  its  refined  and  pleasing  flavor 
combine  with  the  fact  that  no  ill  effects  ever  follow  a  too  free 
indulgence  in  this  delightful  wine.  Among  the  many  things  good 
for  the  inner  man  for  which  this  firm  are  the  agents,  is  the  superb 
Port  of  Messrs.  Feuerheerd  &  Co.  Of  this  Vizetelly,  the  celebrated 
wine  expert  says  in  a  recent  volume  of  his:  "Of  the  numerous 
vintage  ports  we  tasted  none  were  more  interesting  than  the  collec- 
tion shown  to  us  at  the  lodges  of  Messrs.  Feuerheerd  &  Co.  This 
firm  keeps  certain  of  its  vintage  wines  from  particular  quintas 
intact;  and  here  we  tasted  a  splendid  wine  of  1870  from  the  Quinta 
do  Ronaco,  remarkable  for  its  great  delicacy,  and  fine  perfume; 
also  a  sample  of  1873  from  the  same  quinta,  dry  and  full  of  flavor, 
and  some  beautiful  wines  of  1875,  from  the  Quintas  Bom  Retire  and 
Zimbro.  We  were  further  shown  some  natural  ports  made  without 
any  addition  of  spirit,  vintage  1875,  being  beautifully  fresh  tasting." 
This  Port  has  a  splendid  color,  and  a  rich,  soft,  delicate  flavor. 

Of  Duff,  Gordon  &  Co.,  the  oldest  shipping  house  at  the 
Puerto  de  Santa  Maria,  sherries  for  which  Messrs.  Meinecke  &  Co., 
are  also  the  agents,  the  same  authority  says  that  for  some  of  the 
amontillados  and  olorosos  of  subdued  pungent  taste,  and  rich 
aroma  ^400  per  butt  had  been  offered  and  refused,  it  being  consid- 
ered much  too  valuable  for  blending  purposes  to  be  parted  with  even 
at  this  price. 

Among  other  good  wines  for  which  Messrs.  Meinecke  &  Co., 
are  agents,  are  the  Bordeaux  clarets  from  A.  De  Luze  &  fils, 
Bordeaux,  hocks  from  G.  M.  Pabstmann,  Sohn  Mayence,  Mosel 
wines  from  Haussmann  and  L,enz,  Traben-on-the- Mosel  and  fine 
brandies,  gin,  rum,  and  mineral  waters.  Of  the  Mosel  wines  Bern- 
castle  is  known  locally  as  "the  doctor,"  because,  as  the  legend  goes,  a 
Knight  was  cured  of  a  fatal  illness  after  an  extravagantly  deep 
potation  of  this,  fyis  favorite  beverage.  The  French  sparkling  wines 
which  furnish  perhaps  the  best  substitutes  for  Champagne,  are  first 
those  from  Vouvray  in  the  neighborhood  of  Tours,  notably  the  wines  of 
Dupanloup  &  Co.,  Carte  Blanche  of  which  Messrs.  Meinecke  &  Co., 
are  the  agents,  and  which  possess  the  requisite  lightness  and 
exhilarating  qualities  of  a  vin  mosseux  combined  with  a  decidedly 
pleasant  flavor. 


IIMNKR    NtAN  19 

OCEANIC  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY.— There  is  no  more 
delightful  trip  on  the  broad  face  of  the  oceans  of  the  world  than  the 
voyage  from  San  Francisco  to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Between 
those  points  the  Pacific  well  deserves  its  name.  It  is  for  months  as 
calm  as  a  mountain  lake,  which  is  sheltered  on  all  sides  by  sentinel 
peaks  from  the  winds.  The  Oceanic  Steamship  Company,  John 
D.  Spreckels  &  Bros.,  has  done  everything  to  make  this  voyage  to 

"  Those  summer  isles  of  Eden  tying 
In  dark  purple  spheres  of  sea," 

pleasant  and  enjoyable  to  the  tourist.  They  run  the  following 
steamers  to  Honolulu  direct,  fortnightly  the  Australia,  3,200 
American  register  ;  the  Zealandia,  3,200  tons  Hawaiian  measure- 
ment which  alternate  with  the  Mariposa,  3,000  tons  American  register; 
the  Alameda,  3,000  tons  ditto,  and  the  Manitowa,  3,200  tons  New 
Zealand  measurement.  The  through  steamers  sail  every  four  weeks 
and  in  combination  with  the  direct  Honolulu  steamers  give  the 
Sandwich  Islands  nine  days  communication  with  the  coast. 

To  say  that  this  fine  fleet  is  furnished  with  all  the  modern  im- 
provements does  not  fully  convey  the  extreme  comfort  which  is 
enjoyed  in  the  voyage.  The  staterooms  are  furnished  with  elec- 
tric bells,  and  electric  lights,  the  table  is  up  to  the  standard  of 
the  best  first-class  hotels  ashore,  and  good  order  and  cleanliness 
everywhere  prevail.  No  better  opportunity  of  making  the  acquain- 
tance of  the  romance  of  a  life  in  -the  tropics  can  be  obtained  than 
by  a  run  to  Honolulu,  for  in  that  strangely  beautiful  country  is 
found  the  extreme  luxuriance  of  tropical  vegetation,  and  the  langour 
and  fascination  of  ari  existence  where  the  sunshine  is  perpetual  and 
the  coral  reefs  are  washed  by  seas  as  blue  as  the  skies  above  them. 
The  rate  of  travel  by  these  steamers  is  very  moderate,  and  there  is 
no  limit  to  the  courtesies  extended  tourists.  The  pleasures  of  a  voy- 
age across  that  placid  ocean  are  infinite.  There  is  the  pure  invigor- 
ating air  for  the  invalid,  the  enjoyable  association  and  the  wonderful 
sunsets  and  moonlights  of  the  tropical  seas.  The  hospitality  of 
the  people  of  Honolulu  is  well  known.  The  stranger  is  always 
made  welcome  there,  and  nothing  pleases  those  good  people  so  much 
as  his  appreciation  of  the  beauties  of  these  picturesque  islands.  The 
great  volcano  on  Hawaii  is  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world,  and  the 
facilities  for  seeing  it  have  been  so  improved  within  the  last  few 
years  that  the  journey  is  now  one  without  danger  or  fatigue.  The 
office  of  J.  D.  Spreckels  &  Bros,  is  327  Market  st. 


Do  you  Drink  ?    Then  Napa  Soda  is  your  Tipple 


CHAPTER  III 

AN  INCIDENT  OF  THE    CUISINE— THE  COOK'S    BELIEF  IN  THE  EFFICACY  OF  HlS  ART 

—THE  MENU  COOKED  UNDER  TRYING  CIRCUMSTANCES.— THE  FATE  OF  A 
TOM  CAT.' — AN  INSULT  TO 'FRANCE  AVENGED. 


HE  FOLLOWING  SKETCH,  illustrative  of  the  pride 
of  the  chef  in  his  art  is  well  adapted  to  the  purposes 
of  this  volume  : 

"  The  Franco- Germ  an  war  was  just  over  when  I  com- 
menced my  medical  studies  in  Paris.  I  lived  in  the  Rue 
de  1'Ancienne  Comedie,  which,  as  you  know  perfectly  well,  is  just 
at  the  back  of  the  Odeon  Theater,  in  the  heart  of  Quartier  Latin 
— I  and  Mr.  Magloire.  We  both  were  'students, — I  of  medicine,  he 
of  the  culinary  art.  Magloire  was  an  enthusiast;  so  was  I,  I 
believe  each  of  us  loved  his  own  particular  art,  as  a  true  artist 
should,  above  everything  else.  Magloire  had  begun  life  as  a  mar- 
miton,  he  rose  to  be  a  journeyman;  he  became  a  sous-chef;  and 
then  he  came  to  Paris  to  -carry  out  the  ambition  of  his 
life.  He  came  to  Paris  to  study  under  the  great  Capilotade — 
Capilotade,  the  cook  of  cooks,  the  Napoleon  of  the  culinary  art. 
He  was  ambitious,  you  see,  this  M.  Magloire,  my  fellow  lodger. 
'The  day  will  come,' he  would  say  to  me,  'when  my  talent  will 
be  recognized.  The  day  will  come — ah,  and  you  will  live  to  see  it, 
my  friend — when  every  fashionable  dish  will  be  accommodated  a  la 
Magloire — soup  a  la  Magloire,  entries,  pastry,  all  a  la  Magloire.  The 
bills  of  fare  of  the  fashionable  restaurants  will  bristle  with  plats  a  la 
Magloire.  Discreet  waiters,  on  being  consulted  by  their  habitual 
customers,  the  great  bon  vivants  will  suggest  that  the  latest  style-is 
a  la  Magloire;  and  the  man  who  intends  to  dine  well  will  order  the 
artistic  masterpiece  of  his  proposed  dinner  to  be  confectioned  a  la 
Magloire,  and  he  will  never,  never,  never  repent  this  decision.  The 
receipts  for  those  inestimable  plats  are  here,'  the  little  man  would 
say  with  a  self-satisfied  smile,  pointing  to  his  bomb-shell  forehead. 
"But  his  art  was  not  his  only  passion;  he  hated  the  enemies  of 
his  country,  the  Germans,  with  a  ferocious  hatred.  I  believe  there 

20 


INNER    IVLAN 

is  nothing  he  would  have  cooked  with  greater  pleasure  than  Prince 
Bismark  himself.  'There  is  nothing  good  about  a  German,'  he 
would  say,  'except  his  enormous  appetite  and  wonderful  digestion.' 

"We  lived  in  adjoining  rooms  then,  Magloire  and  I,  and  we  had 
a  little  box  of  a  kitchen,  as  is  frequently  the  case  in  French  lodging- 
houses,  in  common.  I  was  only  too  glad  to  mess  with  M.  Magloire. 
We  lived  for  next  to  nothing,  and  he  always  gave  me  dtje&ner  of 
four //a/.?  at  twelve  o'clock,  Magloire  had  not  an  enemy  in  the 
world,  except  Mephistopheles,  the  cat  of  our  landlord,  who  occupied 
the  first  floor.  This  Mephistopheles  pervaded  the  house.  He  was 
a  past-master  in  the  predatory  art.  Mephistopheles  was  a  red  cat,  a 
fiend  in  feline  form.  The  measure  of  his  iniquity  was  full;  he  had 
eaten  the  canary  of  Mile  Lucie,  the  pretty  milliner  on  the  floor  above; 
he  had  devored  the  favorite  starling  of  the  wife  of  the  concierge;  and 
many  a  time  and  oft  he  had  stolen  choice  morsels  from  the  laboratory 
of  my  friend  Magloire. 

"  'Magloire,'  said  I  to  my  fellow  lodger  one  night,  as  we  were 
consuming  a  grog  au  vin  in  my  room,  '  I  have  taken  a  liberty  with 
you.  I  have  invited  my  friend  Dr.  Von  Wurst,  to  breakfast  to-mor- 
row and  felt  certain  you  wouldn't  mind  when  I  gave  the  invitation. 
But  after  I  left  him,  I  remarked  he  was  a  Prussian,  and,  knowing 
your  hatred  for  Prussians,  perhaps  I  have  better  take  him  out  to 
breakfast.  Can  you  lend  me  five  francs,  for  I  am  dead  broke  ? ' 

"M.  Magloire  upset  his  tumbler  over  his  trousers;  what  was  in 
the  tumbler  was  hot.  'Doctor,'  cried  M.  Magloire,  and  his  eyes 
sparkled  with  mingled  rage  and  pain,  *  when  you  ask  me  to  cook 
for  the  enemy  of  my  country,  you  insult  me.  I  would  cook  for  the 
ignorant,  for  the  uncultured,  even  for  the  converted  cannibal;  but 
for  the  enemy  of  my  country,  never!  Farewell,  perfidious  Knglish- 
man,  you've  hurt  my  feelings, 'and  he  rushed  from  the  room.  I  heard 
him  lock  himself  in  his  bedroom,  and  there  wras  a  dead  silence  for 
a  full  quarter  of  an  hour.  It  was  suddenly  broken  by  a  confused 
noise  of  running  about  in  my  fellow-lodger's  room.  Then  there 
was  a  sound  of  a  heavy  blow — then  a  silence.  Five  minutes  after- 
ward, there  was  a  tap  at  my  door  and  Magloire  appeared.  He  was 
very  red  in  the  face,  and  he  looked  very  much  ashamed  of  himself. 
'  Dr.  Labels,'  he  said,  '  forgive  my  loss  of  temper;  forgive  my 
apparent  rudeness.  I  have  repented;  embrace  me  my  friend,  'Labels/ 
he  cried  hurriedly,  '  your  friend — your  Prussian  friend — shall  not  be 
disappointed.  I  will  do  my  best  for  you  to-morrow,  and  for  him. 
You  are  hard  up,  my  friend,  but  you  still  have  credit  with  the  wine 

Ghiradelli's  Breakfast  Cocoa.     The  Best 


32  THE   INNER   N1AN 

merchant.  Send  in  a  couple  of  bottles  of  wine,  then,  and  look  to 
Magloire  for  the  breakfast;  leave  that  to  me.  I  will  provide  a 
breakfast — such  a  breakfast — a  breakfast  that  Lucullus  himself 
would  not  be  ashamed  to  assist  at.  But  I  have  one  stipulation  to 
make'  cried  the  little  man,  '  I  will  compose  a  special  dish  of  honor 
for  your  friend,  the  Prussian,  a  '  ci vit  de  lapin  a  la  Magloire'  a 
delicious  plat,  but  you  must  promise  me  not  to  partake  of  it." 
'You're  not  going  to  poison  him?'  I  asked.  'Heaven  forbid!' 
cried  the  disciple  of  Soyer,  '  but  I  know  the  German  taste.  I  pre- 
pare a  special  dish  for  him,  and  there  will  not  be  enough  for  all.'  I 
agreed  to  the  bargain;  I  thanked  Magloire,  effusively,  and  we  bade 
each  other  good-night.  *  Don't  forget  that  you're  to  provide  the 
wine,'  cried  Magloire  as  he  disappeared. 

"At  ten  minutes  to  twelve  the  next  day  I  arrived  with  my  friend, 
Dr.  Von  Wurst,  at  my  humble  home  in  the  Quartier  Latin.  On  the 
road  I  broke  it  very  gently  to  him  that  my  fellow  lodger  was  an 
amateur  cook.  Prussians  are  very  proud,  you  know;  they  were 
prouder  than  usual  at  that  particular  epoch.  Dr.  Von  Wurst 
laughed.  '  I  don't  care  how  the  food's  cooked,'  he  said,  brutally, 
'as  long  as  there's  plenty  to  eat.'  As  we  ascended  the  stairs,  a 
delicious  odor  assailed  our  nostrils.  There  was  Magloire  in  his 
Sunday  clothes  ;  he  looked  much  more  like  a  marquis  than  a  cook. 
He  received  Dr.  Von  Wurst  with  effusion  ;  he  bowed,  he  gesticulated, 
he  smiled — there  seemed  something  treacherous  and  diabolical  in 
that  smile  of  his  ;  and  I  noticed  that  he  never  shook  hands  with  the 
Prussian.  The  table  was  decorated  with  flowers  ;  there  was  a  writfea 
menu  on  it  which  ran  as  follows  : 

Snail  Soup  a  la  Trochu. 
Pied  de  Mouton  a  la  Gambetta. 

Pigeons  &  la  Franc-tireur. 

Civit  de  Lapin  &  la  Magloire. 

Confitures  Diverses. 

"I  must  confess  Dr.  Von  Wurst  swaggered  in  an  offensive 
manner  ;  but  my  friend  Magloire  bore  it  bravely.  The  German  was 
helped  twice  to  snail  soup. 

"  'We  did  not  live  like  this  during  the  war,'  he  said  with  a  great 
laugh.  And  then  the  conversation  turned  to  cooks  and  cookery. 
And  then  the  miserable  German  was  guilty  of  a  wretched  epigram  : 
1  Every  man  should  stick  to  his  trade, '  he  said,  with  his  mouth  full 
tfpied  de  mouton  a  la  Gambetta;  'we  Germans  are  soldiers  born— 


THE   INNER   NIAN 

haw  !  haw  ! — Frenchmen  should  leave  fighting  alone  and  stick  to 
cookery,  the  finest  of  the  fine  arts.     That's  where  they  shine.' 

"  M.  Magloire  made  a  horrible  grimace  and  helped  the  doctor 
liberally  to  a  great  plateful  of  the  rich  and  fragrant  stew  entitled  civit 
de  lapin  a  la  Magloire.  For  full  five  minutes  my  German  friend  did 
not  speak  a  word.  He  ate — how  he  ate  ! — silently,  enthusiastically, 
voraciously  ;  and  then  he  held  out  his  plate  for  more.  He  picked 
the  bones,  he  mopped  up  the  rich  gravy  with  his  bread,  and  then  he 
had  a  third  helping,  and  he  finished  the  entire  dishful.  '  I  never 
tasted  any  thing  like  it  he  said,'  and  there  were  tears  of  gratitude  in 
his  eyes. 

"  'I  don't  suppose  you  ever  did,'  said  M.  Magloire,  dryly. 
'  France  is  avenged,'  he  whispered  to  me  behind  his  hand. 

1 '  Then  the  German  gorged  himself  with  confitures,  and  drank  a 
good  deal  more  than  his  share  of  the  wine.  '  I  verily  believe, '  said 
Dr.  Von  Wurst,  turning  a  little  pale,  '  that  I  have  eaten  too  much 
breakfast.' 

'  'A  dreadful  thought  passed  through  my  mind.  Had  Magloire 
poisoned  him  ? 

"  We  were  alone,  and  then  M.  Magloire  began  to  laugh,  until  I 
thought  he  had  gone  mad  ;  my  friend,  the  cook,  must  have  laughed 
fully  five  minutes  by  the  clock.  When  he  left  off  laughing  I  asked 
him  what  he  meant  by  his  mysterious  statement  that  France  was 
avenged. 

'  '  Swear   that  you  will   not  betray  me,  my   friend,  and  I  will 
tell  you.' 

"  I  gave  the  required  pledge. 

"'You  have  not  seen  Mephistopheles  to-day,'  he  said  in  a 
whisper,  '  at  least,  not  to  recognize  him.  Last  night,'  he  went  on, 
'  last  night  he  died.  I  slew  him — alone  and  unarmed.  I  did  it. 
Mephistopheles  is  dead,  my  friend,  and  I  have  buried  him,  all  except 
his  skin  and  head,  in  a  living  tomb.  The  man — that  German  man 
with  the  unpronounceable  name,  that  man  who  has  insulted  my 
country  and  my  noble  profession — has  swallowed  the  mortal  remains 
of  Mephistopheles  ;  he  is  now  digesting  him.  I  hope  it  will  disagree 
with  him  ;  and  I  don't  think  it  will.  A  Prussian  medical  student, 
sir,  can  digest  anything,  even  a  tomcat.  Hadn't  we  better  have  a 
glass  of  Chartreuse  ?'  " 


A  Napa  Soda  Lemonade  is  a  Luxury 


24  THE    INNER    N1AN 

EL  MONTE  HOTEL. — The  nearest  and  most  delightful  sub- 
urb of  San  Francisco  is  Sausalito.  Within  a  few  years  the  growth 
of  this  seaside  resort  has  been  unequaled.  The  hills  facing  the 
bay  have  been  dotted  with  handsome  villas,  many  of  them  as 
imposing  and  costly  as  the  homes  of  San  Francisco.  The  principal 
hotel  of  Sausalito  has  been  for  years  the  "  El  Monte,"  J.  E.  Slinkey, 
proprietor.  It  has  kept  pace  with  the  progress  of  the  town.  Mr. 
Slinkey,  with  commendable  enterprise,  has  every  year  added  to  the 
El  Monte,  for  the  increasing  popularity  of  Sausalito  as  a  Summer- 
abiding  place,  demanded  a  first-class  family  hotel,  comfortable,  well 
kept,  and  suitable  for  transient  as  well  as  permanent  occupation. 
The  "El  Monte"  is  located  on  the  most  inviting  spot  in  the  vicinity 
of  San  Francisco.  It  is  surrounded  with  spacious  and  well  kept 
gardens,  and  the  trees,  which  have  such  an  abundant  growth  in 
this  portion  of  Marin  County,  have  been  carefully  preserved  with 
the  view  of  affording  that  shade  so  pleasing  and  necessary  in 
the  warm  days  of  Summer.  The  view  from  the  verandahs  of  the  El 
Monte  is  exceptionally  fine.  To  the  west  lies  San  Francisco,  and 
in  the  middle  distance  Alcatraz  with  its  frowning  batteries,  and 
picturesque  citadel.  Northward,  Mount  Tamalpais  lifts  its  grizzled 
head  in  that  purple  haze,  peculiar  to  the  California  atmosphere.  To 
the  eastward  is  Angel  Island,  with  the  military  port,  Camp  Rey- 
nolds, snugly  established  between  two  sheltering  ridges,  and  to  the 
northeast  Raccoon  Straits  and  the  full  sweep  of  Richardson's  Bay 
are  disclosed.  The  attractions  which  the  El  Monte  offers  its  hab- 
itats are  numerous.  They  comprise  everything  that  one  may  expect 
in  the  country.  In  the  first  place  the  rooms  are  neat,  well  ventilated 
and  well  furnished,  not  alone  with  what  is  ordinarily  compre- 
hended in  the  word,  but  nearly  all  have  a  portion  of  this  grand, 
marine  picture  of  island,  bay  and  shipping.  Then  the  boating, 
fishing,  sea-bathing  and  romantic  walks  along  winding  and  wooded 
paths  with  every  few  yards  novel  and  ever  varying  glimpses  of  the 
sea,  combine  to  make  this  place  of  rest  and  enjoyment  complete. 
The  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  incomparably  fine.  Over  the  hills  to 
Point  Bonita,  where  the  lighthouse  stands  on  a  a  jutting  crag, 
lashed  by  the  great  waves  rolling  in  from  the  ocean,  is  one  of  the 
most  attractive.  Along  the  bay  shore  to  Mill  Valley  where  groves 
of  huge  redwood  trees  still  exist,  and  where  the  road  winds  to  the 
summit  of  Tamalpais;  to  San  Rafael,  through  Ross  Valley,  and  on 
toward  Nicasio  if  an  extended  trip  is  desired,  are  among  the  many 
points  of  interest  which  the  sojourner  at  the  El  Monte  may  enjoy. 


THE    INNER    IVLAN  25 

About  the  grounds  are  handsome  and  well  arranged  cottages  for 
families  desiring  more  privacy  than  the  hotel  affords.  Another 
advantage  is  its  proximity  to  the  steamer  landing.  About  five 
minutes  from  the  starting  hour  gives  one  quite  time  enough  to 
get  comfortably  aboard.  The  climate  here  is  unsurpassed.  There 
are  no  shrill,  biting  winds,  and  no  fog.  The  huge  masses  of  mist 
which  in  Summer  roll  in  through  the  Golden  Gate,  halt  on  the  sum- 
mits of  the  lofty  hills  in  the  rear,  but  never  descend  upon  the  mesa 
where  the  El  Monte  stands.  There  are  hot  and  cold  salt  water 
baths  attached  to  the  hotel,  and  every  modern  convenience  to  make 
the  visitor's  stay  agreeable. 

BERGEZ'S  RESTAURANT.— In  the  very  heart  of  the  busi- 
ness part  of  the  city  is  the  Bergez  restaurant,  334  Pine  street. 
There  are  few  caterers  better  known  on  this  coast  than  John  Ber- 
gez. Himself  an  epicure  and  a  sportsman,  he  knows  just  what 
epicures  and  sportsmen  need.  Therefore  Bergez' s  is  the  favorite 
resort  of  the  anglers  of  San  Francisco,  who,  over  the  well  spread 
table,  relate  incidents  of  stream  and  lake  which  add  a  jest  to  the 
repast.  Bergez  is  noted  for  the  great  variety  and  great  excellence 
of  the  cuisine.  Monsieur  Jean  himself  is  an  early  visitant  to  the 
markets  where  he  selects  good  things  for  the  inner  man,  fish  fresh 
from  the  ocean — delicate  pompano,  Spanish  mackerel,  delicious 
sole,  and  the  plumpest  of  poultry,  and  the  tenderest  of  beef  and 
mutton.  It  is  difficult,  by  the  way,  in  this  connection  to  conceive 
of  a  place  where  one  can  get  a  sole  an  gratin  to  excel  those  in  del- 
icacy of  preparation  and  artistic  service  sent  forth  from  Bergez's 
kitchen.  In  the  game  season  the  array  of  wild  fowl  is  always  very 
tempting  at  this  cosy  retreat.  Mallard,  canvas,  sprig,  snipe,  every- 
thing in  the  line  of  marsh  bird  that  the  season  affords  may  be  found 
at  Bergez's.  The  private  dining-rooms  for  ladies  and  families  are 
quite  comfortable,  and  the  service  there,  as  in  the  main  dining-hall, 
without  reproach.  The  Bergez  waiters  indeed  are  noted  for  their 
attention  and  ability,  and  their  anxiety  to  make  the  guests  of  Mon- 
sieur Jean  perfectly  at  home.  The  wines  are  -particularly  well 
chosen.  In  Bergez's  cellar  rest  some  of  the  very  nicest  products  of 
our  Californii  vintages  and  some  fine  old  Burgundies  from  across 
the  water  and  which,  when  the  cork  is  drawn,  exude  an  aroma  of 
the  most  delightful  fragrance.  A  peculiarity  about  the  patrons  of 
the  restaurant  is,  that  when  they  have  been  accustomed  to  the  cuis- 
ine they  desire  no  other.  They  never  change.  Week  after  week, 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


26  THE;    INNER    MAN 

month  after  month,  and  year  after  year,  one  sees  the  same  famil- 
iar faces  at  John's  tables,  which  is  one  of  the  best  indications  of  the 
even  quality  of  solids,  wines  and  cooking.  There  are  so  many 
nice  things  served  at  this  restaurant  that  it  would  be  difficult  to 
give  any  one  the  preference.  A  cool  salad,  preceded  by  a  tasty 
soup,  and  followed  by  a  roast  mallard,  the  same  washed  down 
with  a  bottle  of  John's  Burgundy,  is  a  repast  which  much  con- 
duces to  longevity.  The  sweetbread  pates  in  this  house  are  also 
most  excellent,  as  indeed  are  all  the  delicate  petit  plats  which  one 
chooses  for  an  entree.  The  salads  are  superb.  The  knack  of  mix- 
ing a  delicious  salad  seems  hereditary  in  this  restaurant.  Although 
a  change  of  waiters  seldom  occurs,  yet  when  a  new  man  comes  in 
he  seems  to  catch  the  art  and  makes  no  mistake  in  the  blending  of 
those  condiments  which  make  a  cool,  crisp  salad,  a  dish  which  can 
be  appreciated  at  all  times.  The  situation  of  the  restaurant  is  also 
fortunate.  That  portion  of  Pine  street  is  quiet  as  far  as  wagons 
are  concerned,  though  thronged  with  the  busy  men  of  the  stock 
market,  and  teing  on  the  north  side  is  sunny,  well  lighted,  and 
in  every  respect  sweet  and  pleasant.  The  lunch  hour  is  perhaps 
the  busiest  of  the  day,  and  then  one  sees  around  the  tables  the 
faces  of  men  whose  names  are  a  familiar  household  word  in  the 
financial  history  of  this  city  and  State. 

WILLIAM  M.  DUNPHY.— Among  those  gentlemen  of  the 
Pacific  Coast  who  thoroughly  understand  the  art  of  furnishing  the 
"Inner  Man"  is  William  M.  Dunphy,  Esq.,  the  cattle  king  of  the 
Pacific  Coast.  Mr.  Dunphy  is  a  pioneer  Californian,  and  has  been 
prominently  identified  with  the  cattle  interests  since  the  days  of  '49. 
His  rancho  La  Posa  in  the  southern  portion  of  Monterey  County  is 
a  typical  California  ranch.  The  Salinas  River  flows  through  it,  and 
upon  its  fertile  hills  graze  thousands  of  the  finest  cattle  in  the  State. 
His  domain  in  Humboldt  County,  consisting  of  175,000  acres  and 
80,000  acres  leased  with  privilege  of  purchase,  all  fenced  in  and 
watered  by  the  Green  River,  would  be  considered  in  Europe  a  prin- 
cipality. 

A  rodeo,  or  round  up  and  parting  out  of  cattle  on  the  La 
Posa  ranch,  is  always  a  period  of  extensive  and  quaint  festivity. 
Mr.  Dunphy 's  friends  for  miles  around  are  bidden  to  the  feast,  and 
to  those  unacquainted  with  old  California  customs,  the  scene  is  a 
most  novel  and  picturesque  one.  A  huge  trench  is  dug  in  a  shady 
grove,  and  filled  with  oak  logs.  The  Spanish  attendants  then  pro- 


INNER  MAN  27 

ceed  to  roast  prime  beeves  whole  and  fat  sheep  on  a  gigantic  spit, 
suspended  over  the  fragrant  embers.  Meanwhile  others  are  preparing 
a  plat)  indigenous  to  and  much  esteemed  at  these  gatherings  -  the 
heads  of  bullocks,  which  have  been  cooking  all  of  the  night  previous 
in  a  hole  in  the  ground,  lined  with  rocks  and  heated  by  great  fires, 
When  the  fire  is  removed  the  bullock  heads,  wrapped  in  sacks,  are 
lowered  in,  covered  over,  and  permitted  to  bake  until  morning.  This 
savory  dish  is  served  with  a  sauce,  composed  of  green  chilis,  onions, 
tomatoes,  and  deliciously  seasoned.  A  feast  of  this  nature  at  Mr. 
Dunphy's  hospitable  ranch  is  an  occasion  to  be  remembered.  Of 
course  the  liquids  flow  in  quantities  as  large  as  the  viands.  Nor  do 
the  festivities  cease  with  the  night,  for  the  guests  are  usually  bidden 
to  a  week's  visit,  or,  indeed,  just  as  long  as  they  choose  to  remain. 
This  unbounded  hospitality  is  a  delightful  feature  of  California  life; 
but,  like  many  of  the  old  customs,  is  falling  into  disuse.  The  part- 
ing out  of  the  cattle  next  morning,  and  the  daring  riding  of  the 
vaqueros,  serve  to  amuse  Mr.  Dunphy's  visitors  until  the  approach  of 
evening  witnesses  a  renewal  of  the  feast. 

The  I«a  Posa  ranch  is  a  veritable  picture  of  beauty.  On  the 
west  it  is  bordered  by  the  Coast  Mountains,  rising, to  an  altitude  of 
several  thousand  feet.  Along  the  margin  of  the  Salinas  River,  and 
almost  for  its  entire  length  across  the  ranch,  the  magnificent  growth 
of  live-oak  trees  are  an  evidence  of  the  great  richness  of  the  soil. 
The  water  supply  is  most  abundant ;  five  wells  sunk  in  as  many 
different  enclosures  with  windmills  and  large  tanks,  furnishing  this 
most  important  feature  of  a  successful  ranch.  An  enclosure  of 
several  hundred  acres  is  used  by  Mr.  Dunphy  as  a  deer-park,  and  is 
so  well  stocked  that  any  of  his  guests  who  can  handle  a  rifle  with 
moderate  skill,  may  be  sure  of  a  fat  buck,  any  morning,  with  a  reason- 
able amount  of  exertion. 


Napa  Soda  Water  Cures  Dyspepsia 


CHAPTER  IV 

How  PORT  WINE  is  MADE — THE  CASA  DOS  LAGARES  OF  THE  JUINTA — A  GANG  OF 
SIXTY  TREADERS  AT  WORK — THE  BEATING  OF  THE  WINE. 


IZETEUvY,  the  celebrated  wine  expert,  in  a  series  of 
letters  to  the  Pall  Mall  Gazette,  which  were  afterward 
published  in  book  form,  gives  some  very  interesting 
descriptions  of  port  wine  making  on  the  Upper  Douro.  The 
Juinta  do  Sexixo  which  he  visited  in  the  height  of  the  vint- 
age, is  entered  through  an  imposing  gateway,  surrounded  by  the 
armorial  bearings  of  its  owner.  From  the  roomy  terrace  where  the 
casa  and  lagares  are  situated  one  looks  down  upon  a  long  flight  of 
descending  terraces  of  vines,  dotted  over  with  a  score  or  two  of  vint- 
agers singing  one  of  their  favorite  ditties.  Among  the  singers  are 
detected  many  countenances  the  exact  counterpart  of  faces  met  with 
in  Sligo,  and  in  the  wilds  of  Connemara.  Jewish  faces  also  are  not 
uncommon,  while  as  regards  the  few  moderately  good  looking 
women,  it  is  evident  that  Moorish  blood  courses  through  their  veins. 
The  latter  have  the  prim  and  graceful  carriage,  the  almond  shaped 
eye  and  straightish  eyebrow,  the  regular  white  teeth,  and  rich  trans- 
parent olive  complexion  peculiar  to  their  race.  Several  of  them 
— barelegged,  coarsely  clad,  uncleanly,  and  unkempt  though  they 
were — wore  handsome  filigree  brooches  and  ear-rings  of  antique  Mau- 
resque  design,  it  being  a  common  practice  with  the  women  of  their 
class  to  invest  their  savings  in  trinkets  of  this  description  in  order  to 
escape  the  importunities  of  impecunious  relatives,  bent  upon  bor- 
rowing from  all  who  are  known  to  hoard. 

While  the  women  are  busy  gathering  the  grapes,  the  men,  with 
heavily  laden  baskets,  continue  ascending  the  steep  steps  at  the  ends 
of  the  taller  terraces,  frequently  twelve  feet  in  height,  and  then  file 
off  with  their  burdens  to  the  lagares,  the  largest  of  which  has  to  be 
filled  by  noon.  Across  this  lagar,  planks  are  placed  for  the  vint- 
agers to  walk  on  when  shooting  the  grapes  into  the  remoter  corners, 
whereby  the  crushing  of  the  fruit  already  in  the  lagar,  and  any  pre- 
mature fermentation  of  the  juice  thus  exuded,  is  avoided. 


THE    INNER.    N1AN  29 

When  the  midday  meal  is  over,  the  grapes  having  been  already 
spread  perfectly  level  in  the  lagar,  a  band  of  sixty  men  is  told  off  to 
tread  them.  The  casa  dos  lagares  is  a  long  building  with  a  low 
pointed  roof,  lighted  with  square  openings  along  the  side,  and  con- 
tains four  lagares,  in  the  largest  of  which  sufficient  grapes  can  be 
trodden  at  one  time  to  produce  thirty  pipes  of  wine.  As  is  univer- 
sally the  case  in  the  Upper  Douro,  these  lagares  are  of  stone,  and 
about  three  feet  in  depth.  In  front  of  each,  and  on  a  lower  level,  is 
a  small  stone  reservoir,  called  a  Jorno,  into  which  the  expressed 
juice  flows  after  the  treading  of  the  grapes  is  concluded,  and  which 
communicates  by  pipes  with  the  huge  tonels  in  the  adega  below, 
although  not  beneath  the  lagares.  In  front  of  the  lagares  runs  a 
narrow  stone  ledge  to  which  ascent  is  gained  by  a  few  steps,  and 
here  while  the  treading  is  going  on  the  overseers  post  themselves^ 
long  staves  in  hand,  in  order  to  see  that  everyone  performs  his  proper 
s'hare  of  labor.  The  treaders,  with  their  white  breeches  well  tucked 
up,  mount  into  the  lagar  where  they  form  three  separate  rows  of  ten 
men  each  on  either  side  of  the  overhanging  beam,  and  placing  their 
arms  on  each  other's  shoulders  commence  work  by  raising  and  low- 
ering their  feet  alternately,  calling  out  as  they  do  so,  ' '  right,  left, ' ' 
varying  this  after  a  time  with  songs  and  shoutings  in  order  to  keep 
the  weaker  and  the  lazier  ones  up  to  the  work,  which  is  quite  as  irk_ 
some  and  monotonous  as  either  treadmill  or  prison  crank.  But  the 
lagariros  have  something  more  than  singing  or  shouting  to  encour- 
age them.  Taking  part  with  them  in  the  treading  is  a  little  band 
of  musicians  with  drum,  fife,  fiddle  and  guitar,  who  strike  up  a 
lively  tune  while  their  comrades  chime  in,  some  by  whistling,  others 
with  castanets.  Occasionally,  too,  nips  of  brandy  are  served  out, 
and  the  overseers  present  cigarettes  all  round,  whereupon  the 
treaders  vary  their  monotonous  movements  with  a  brisker  measure. 

This  first  treading — the  sovar  o  vinho,  or  beating  of  the  wine,  as 
it  is  called — lasts,  with  occasional  respites,  and  relays  of  fresh  men, 
for  eighteen  hours.  A  long  interval  now  ensues,  and  then  the  tread- 
ing or  beating  is  resumed.  By  this  time  the  grapes  are  pretty  well 
crushed,  and  walking  over  the  pips  and  stalks  strewn  at  the  bottom 
of  the  lagar  becomes  something  like  the  pilgrimages  of  old,  when 
the  devout  trudged  wearily  along  with  hard  peas  packed  between 
the  soles  of  their  feet  and  the  soles  of  their  shoes.  The  lagariros, 
with  their  garments  more  or  less  bespattered  with  grape  juice,  move 
slowly  about  in  their  Mauve  colored,  mucilaginous  bath  in  a  listless 
kind  of  way,  now  smoking  cigarettes,  now  with  their  arms  folded  or 


Indigestion  Dies  where  Napa  Soda  Lives 


30  THE}    INNKR    MAN 

thrown  behind  their  backs,  or  with  their  hands  tucked  in  their  waist- 
coat pockets,  or  raised  up  to  their  chins  while  they  support  the 
elbow  of  one  arm  with  the  hand  of  another.  The  fiddle  strikes  up 
anew,  the  drum  sounds,  the  fife  squeaks,  the  guitar  tinkles,  and  the 
overseers  drowsily  upbraid.  But  all  to  no  purpose.  Music  has  lost 
its  inspiration,  and  authority  its  terrors,  and  the  men,  dead,  beat  raise 
one  purple  leg  languidly  after  the  other. 

By  the  time  the  treading  is  completed,  the  violent  fermentation  of 
the  must  has  commenced,  and  is  left  to  flow  its  course.  According 
as  the  grapes  are  moderately  or  over  ripe,  and  the  atmospheric  tem- 
perature is  high  or  low,  and  it  is  intended  that  the  wine  shall  be 
sweet  or  dry,  this  fermentation  will  be  allowed  to  continue  for  a 
shorter  or  longer  period,  varying  from  fifteen  hours  to  several  days, 
during  which  time  the  husks  and  the  stalks  of  the  grapes,  rising  to 
the  surface  of  the  must,  form  a  thick  incrustation.  To  ascertain  the 
proper  moment  for  drawing  the  wine  off  into  the  tonels,  recourse  is 
usually  had  to  a  saccharometer,  when,  if  this  marks  four  or  five 
degrees,  the  farmer  knows  that  the  wine  will  be  sweet;  if  a  smaller 
number  of  degrees  be  indicated  the  wine  will  be  moderately  sweet, 
while  zero  signifies  that  the  wine  will  be  dry.  Some  farmers  judge 
the  state  of  the  fermentation  by  the  appearance  of  the  wine  on  the 
conventional  white  porcelain  saucer  and  the  vinous  smell  and  flavor 
which  it  then  exhibits.  When  it  is  ascertained  that  the  wine  has 
sufficiently  fermented,  it  is  at  once  run  off  into  large  tonels,  hold, 
ing  their  ten  to  thirty  pipes  each,  the  mosto  extracted  from  the 
musks  of  the  grapes  by  the  application  of  the  huge  beam  press  being 
mixed  with  the  expressed  juice  resulting  from  the  treading.  It  is 
now  that  brandy — not  poisonous  Berlin  potato  spirit,  but  spirit  dis 
tilled  from  the  juice  of  the  grape — is  added  at  the  rate  of  five  and 
one-half  gallons  to  eleven  gallons  per  pipe,  if  desired  that  the  wine 
should  retain  its  sweetness.  Should,  however,  the  wine  be  already 
dry,  the  chances  are  that  it  will  receive  no  spirit  at  all.  The  bungs 
are  left  out  of  the  tonels  until  November,  when  they  are  tightly 
replaced,  and  the  wine  remains  undisturbed  until  the  cold  weather 
sets  in,  usually  during  the  month  of  December.  By  this  time  the 
wine  has  cleared  and  become  of  a  dark  purple  hue.  It  is  now  drawn 
off  its  lus  and  returned  again  to  the  tonel,  where  it  receives  about 
five  gallons  of  brandy  per  pipe.  In  the  following  March  it  will 
be  racked  into  pipes,  preparatory  to  be  sent  down  the  Douro  to  the 
wine-shippers'  lodges  at  Villa  Nova  de  Gaia.  A  great  quantity  of 
the  wine  vintaged  in  the  Upper  Douro  is  shipped  to  Aporto  in  the 


INNER 


31 


ensuing  Spring  from  Pinhao,  although  many  growers  ship  their 
wines  at  favorable  points  of  the  river,  contiguous  to  their  own 
quintas.  The  pipes  are  sent  down  from  the  adegas  fastened  with 
ropes  on  to  bullock  carts,  the  massive  framework,  and  low  solid 
iron-tired  wheels  of  which  are  much  the  same  pattern  as  in  the  days 
of  the  Romans.  The  powerful  oxen  have  a  difficult  task  of  it  in 
restraining  the  too  rapid  descent  down  the  fearfully  steep  and  rugged 
roads  with  the  dead  weight  behind  them  always  compelling  them 
forward. 

The  yoke  is  fixed  to  the  horns  of  the  oxen,  instead  of  to  their 
necks,  and  is  provided  with  a  leather  cushion — often  set  off  with  a  long 
fringe — to  prevent  it  from  chaffing  their  foreheads.  Were  the  yokes 
fixed  in  the  usual  manner  to  their,  necks,  the  chances  are  that  the 
animals  would  be  throttled  while  ascending  or  descending  these 
steep  mountain  tracks.  The  wheels  and  axles  of  the  cart  revolve 
together,  screeching  loudly.  The  peasants  say  this  unearthly  sound, 
known  as  the  "chilareda,"  frightens  the  wolves  and  would  scare 
away  the  devil,  which  is  not  unlikely,  if  he  has  only  a  moderately 
sensitive  ear.  It  certainly  has  one  advantage  ;  in  the  narrow  moun- 
tain track  you  hear  the  cart  coming  a  long  way  off,  and  are  able  to 
look  out  for  a  place  where  it  is  possible  for  it  to  pass  without  unhors- 
ing you.  When  the  bullock  cart  has  arrived  on  the  strand,  the  pipe 
is  gently  lowered  on  to  the  sand,  and  then  rolled  up  a  plank  laid 
against  the  side  of  the  high-prowed,  flat-bottomed  boat  which  is  to 
receive  it  on  board.  If  the  incline  is  very  steep  ropes  are  had 
recourse  to.  These  Douro  wine  boats  are  of  various  sizes,  some  of 
them  carrying  as  few  as  ten  and  others  as  many  as  eighty  pipes. 
The  charge  of  carrying  a  pipe  down  to  Aporto,  is  ten  shillings 
exclusive  of  the  cost  of  getting  it  to  the  boat  and  the  landing  of  it  at 
Villa  Nova  de  Gaia.  During  the  voyage  the  boat  has  to  ascend 
numerous  rapids,  the  approach  to  which  is  signalled  by  the  steersman 
by  the  shouts  of  "  Arezonde  !  "  whereupon  the  oarsmen  raise  their 
oars  out  of  the  water  and  the  steersman,  standing  upon  the  stern- 
posts  and,  looking  ahead  to  avoid  the  sunken  rocks,  firmly  grips  the 
tiller,  whereon  depends  the  safety  of  the  boat  and  its  cargo.  Sud- 
denly the  vessel  is  precipitated  down  the  rapid,  when,  with  a  sing'e 
jerk,  the  steersman  swings  its  head  round,  while  a  couple  of  agile 
men  at  the  prow  sound  the  bottom  of  the  river  with'  their  long  poles. 
The  Douro  boatmen  are  very  chatty  and  cheerful,  and  frequently 
converse  among  themselves  in  a  song,  the  words  of  which  they  impro- 
vise as  the  occasion  may  require.  They  are  very  strict  in  the  observ- 


Ladies  Drink  Napa   Soda  for  Complexion 


32  THE    INNER. 

ance  of  their  religious  duties,  and  whenever  a  saint  is  passed,  perched 
on  the  summit  of  the  cliffs  bordering  the  river,  they  bare  their  heads 
and  repeat  a  short  prayer.  Before  commencing  a  meal,  too,  they 
will  stand  up  and  uncover  themselves,  and  devoutly  say  grace. 
Their  hardest  toil  is  in  ascending  the  river  with  a  cargo  of  empty 
pipes,  as  then  the  boat  has  to  be  turned  against  the  powerful  current- 
The  unloading  and  reloading  of  the  cargo,  too,  whenever  the  vessel 
gets  aground  or  the  numerous  rapids  have  to  be  ascended,  is  both  a 
tedious  and  laborious  affair. 

THE  HOTEL  DEL  MONTE.— The  Hotel  Del  Monte  is  the 
queen  seaside  resort  of  the  West.  It  is  the  great  objective  point  of 
the  tourist,  the  Mecca  of  the  traveler  from  other  lands.  It  is  no 
exaggeration  to  say  that  it  is  the  most  beautiful,  the  best  managed 
and  the  most  surprisingly  economical  hotel  in  the  world.  This 
sounds  big,  but  it  is  a  fact  which  will  be  confirmed  by  everyone  who 
has  tarried  under  its  hospitable  roof.  To  quote  from  a  writer  whose 
judgment  in  these  matters  is  of  large  value  and  who  has  traveled 
much,  "no  seaside  hotel  upon  the  Atlantic  Coast  can  approach  its 
plan  of  exterior,  while  its  interior  design  and  finish  display  the 
same  refined  taste  and  lavish  use  of  wealth.  In  a  word,  the  proprietors 
of  this  beautiful  retreat  had  no  other  aim  than  to  supplement  nature 
by  art." 

The  architecture  of  the  Del  Monte  is  of  modern  gothic,  and 
favors  space — breathing  room,  nothing  cramped  or  confined,  but 
everything  open,  expansive  and  comfortable.  A  correspondent  of 
the  Boston  Journal  speaks  thus:  "the  three  days  we  spent  at  the 
Hotel  Del  Monte,  Monterey — a  place  it  is  hard  to  classify  because  of 
its  exceeding  loveliness — made  the  pleasantest  memory  we  had  of 
California.  We  have  nothing  at  home  that  approaches  the  exquisite 
.setting  of  this  exquisite  house.  The  Pacific  all  along  this  coast 
seems  to  wear  constantly  that  dazzling  sapphire  blue  which  we  see 
at  home  only  at  special  times — the  sky  carries  out  the  same  superb 
color  with  a  glow  and  depth  of  sunshine  superadded,  which  is  almost 
too  brilliant  for  belief — a  series  of  curving  beaches  of  shining  snowy 
white  sand,  covered  here  and  there,  even  down  to  the  water's  edge, 
by  a  growth  of  the  most  picturesque  trees  of  this  continent." 

It  is  needless  to  say  that  the  grounds  are  all  that  the  taste  and 
skill  of  the  best  landscape  gardener,  procurable  in  the  country,  could 
make  them.  He  has  over  fifty  under  gardeners  to  carry  out  his 
instructions.  The  sea-bathing  at  Monterey  is  exquisite  ;  one  may 


INNER    NIAN  33 

take  the  choice  between  surf  and  smooth  water,  and  for  those  who  are 
too  timid  to  face  the  outside,  there  are  warm  sea-water  tanks  under 
crystal  roofs,  graded  to  different  temperatures  for  the  guests  of  the 
Del  Monte.  This  bathing  establishment  is  the  largest  and  best 
arranged  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  A  brief  enumeration  of  its  facilities 
will  give  one  an  idea  of  its  extent.  There  are  two  hundred  and  ten 
dressing-rooms,  one-half  of  which  are  set  apart  for  ladies,  each  with 
a  double  apartment — one  for  dressing  and  the  other  for  a  shower-bath. 
The  main  building  which  contains  the  tanks  of  fresh  steam- heated 
salt  water,  is  well  furnished  with  accommodations  for  those  who 
wish  to  amuse  themselves  with  the  gambols,  and  admire  the  bathers. 

The  drives  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Del  Monte  are  many  and 
various.  Monterey  is  the  most  historic  town  in  California,  and  on 
every  side  are  encountered  objects  teeming  with  strange  reminis- 
cences of  the  Spanish  occupation.  On  the  sea  drive  one  passes  the 
old  fort  from  which  the  cannon  of  his  most  Christian  Majesty  once 
thundered.  Further  on  is  the  spot  where  the  good  Father  Junipero 
Serra  landed  over  a  century  ago.  Then  comes  the  Mission  founded 
by  that  pioneer  Franciscan,  overlooking  Carmelo  Bay  ;  while  the 
rocky  headlands  of  Point  L,obos,  and  the  drooping  forms  of  the 
Sierra  of  the  Santa  Lucia  appear  in  the  distant  blue  beyond.  In  the 
churchyard  of  this  ancient  place  repose  the  remains  of  fifteen  govern- 
ors of  this  Province  and  State,  and  the  dust  of  the  apostle  who 
founded  it,  also  rests  here — a  fitting  tomb — the  scene  of  his  labor  in 
the  cause  of  Christianity  and  civilization. 

To  describe  the  fascination  of  this  locality  would  far  exceed  the 
capacity  of  this  volume.  It  is  the  great  attraction  of  the  tourist  and 
sightseer  and  anyone  who  journeys  to  the  Pacific  Coast  from  any 
quarter  of  the  world  in  search  of  pleasure  or  health,  or  both,  must 
make  a  sojourn  at  the  Del  Monte,  and  a  period  spent  among  its 
romantic  and  attractive  surroundings,  is  one  of  the  most  important 
features  of  his  tour. 

Monterey  has  some  well  established  claims  to  the  possession  of 
a  dry  and  invigorating  atmosphere.  The  temperature  is  even  all  the 
year  round ;  of  course  the  old  city  is  not  exempt  from  a  touch  of 
the  spring  and  summer  fogs  usual  to  most  coast  districts,  but  there  is 
nothing  unhealthy  about  those  visitations.  They  keep  the  foliage 
green,  and  when  the  sun  comes  forth  everything  is  fresh  and  glowing 
as  after  a  spring  shower  in  the  Eastern  states.  The  winters  are  as 
delightful  as  the  summer  months.  The  air  is  clear  and  invigorating, 


Ghiraclelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


34  THE;    IKNKR 

and  there  is  no  exaggeration  in  saying  that  one  may  bathe  in  the 
open  sea  all  the  year  round  without  any  inconvenience.  A  dis- 
tinguished Eastern  physician,  who  is  familiar  with  all  the  pleasure 
resorts  of  the  United  States  and  the  Old  World  has  said  "  California 
has  many  health  resorts  deserving  more  than  passing  notice,  but  my 
present  object  is  to  call  the  attention  of  the  profession  to  the  signal 
attractions  presented  by  Monterey  as  a  winter  resort  for  invalids  who 
require  equability  of  climate,  and  a  pure  invigorating  atmosphere. 

LOUIS  SLOSS  &  CO.— One  of  the  most  important  industries 
in  connection  with  food  supplies  is  salmon-canning.  This  has  been 
carried  on  for  a  number  of  years  on  the  Sacramento  River  in  our 
State  and  on  the  Columbia  River  in  Oregon,  but  within  the  last 
seven  or  eight  years  the  business  has  spread  so  as  to  now  include 
our  Alaskan  possessions,  and  indeed  these  latter  have  taken  first 
place  in  the  extent  of  yearly  output.  The  firm  of  Louis  Sloss  &  Co. 
of  San  Francisco,  may  be  considered  the  pioneers  of  this  industry  in 
Alaska.  It  had  been  conducted  on  a  small  scale  until  they  organized 
the  Karluk  Packing  Company,  whose  Horseshoe  Brand  has  always 
been  known  as  the  prize  brand  of  Alaska  canned  salmon.  The  largest 
pack  ever  made  in  one  year  by  any  cannery  was  at  this  place, 
amounting  to  101,000  cases,  of  which  80,000  cases  were  purchased 
by  one  house  for  the  English  market.  Since  the  original  company 
this  firm  has  established  five  other  similar  enterprises,  as  follows : 
The  Nushagak  Canning  Company  (Moosehead  Brand),  atNushagak; 
The  Northern  Packing  Company  (Anchor  Brand),  at  Kenai;  The 
Pacific  Packing  Company  (National  Brand)  at  Kodiak;  The  Royal 
Packing  Company  (Chieftain  Brand),  at  Afognak;  The  Thin  Point 
Packing  Company  (Coleman  Flag  Brand),  at  Thin  Point;  and  at 
these  canneries  has  produced  fully  one-third  of  the  annual  pack  of 
Alaska  salmon.  The  introduction  of  this  product  was  attended  with 
considerable  difficulty  at  first,  owing  to  the  natural  prejudices  of 
trade  against  a  new  article.  In  color,  the  fish  is  of  a  deeper  red  than 
Columbia  or  Sacramento  River  fish,  its  meat  m  firmer,  and  since  the 
public  has  appreciated  its  virtues  as  a  cheap  and  wholesome  food,  its 
sale  has  increased  wonderfully.  As  at  first,  England  is  our  largest 
customer,  but  now  the  consumption  in  the  United  States  has  gradually 
grown  until  it  has  assumed  proportions  that  argue  well  for  the  stabil- 
ity of  the  business  in  the  future. 


THE    INNER    N1AN  35 

W.  W.  ERSKINE. — After  a  plenteous  repast  when  the  inner  man 
is  at  peace  with  all  the  world  and  the  cares  of  life  become  shadowy 
and  indistinct,  nothing  is  more  keenly  relished  than  a  good  cigar. 
Now  comes  the  question,  where  is  the  best  place  to  procure  such  a 
luxury  ?  There  are  cigars  and  cigars,  and  the  keenest  judge  is  apt 
to  be  deceived  by  the  appearance  of  the  weed  until  he  has  got  it 
between  his  teeth  and  inhaled  its  aroma.  W.  W.  Erskine,  on  the 
southwest  corner  of  Bush  and  Montgomery  streets,  has  a  class  of 
customers  who  appreciate  a  good  smoke,  and  who  unhesitatingly 
apply  to  him  for  the  gratification  of  that  taste.  Mr.  Erskine  is  a 
direct  importer  from  Havana,  and  handles  the  very  finest  qualities 
of  those  cigars.  He  has  not  alone  the  favorite  brands  of  the  past, 
but  everything  new  in  the  line  of  fine  cigars  is  found  in  his  place. 
The  same  may  be  said  of  his  tobaccos  and  cigarettes.  There  is 
an  abundance  to  choose  from,  and  should  the  purchaser  be  in  doubt, 
Mr.  Erskine  can  give  him  a  useful  hint — the  advice  of  a  connoisseur 
in  regard  to  his  selection.  The  result  is  that  he  has  the  satisfaction  of 
furnishing  some  of  the  very  best  cigar  epicures  in  San  Francisco 
with  their  smoking  material.  The  "weed"  is  really  inseparable  from 
that  comfort  which  pervades  the  material  part  of  humanity  when  tne 
cares  of  the  day,  soothed  by  wholesome  refection,  are  cremated  in  a 
good  cigar  and  vanish  in  smoke.  Mr.  Erskine  furnishes  just  that 
sort  of  a  comforter. 


Do  you  Drink  ?    Then  Napa  Soda  is  your  Tipple 


CHAPTER    V. 

EATING    AND    DRINKING  IN   EGYPT  —  How   THE  FOOD  is  PREPARED  —  TABLE. 
HABITS    OF   THE   EARLY   EGYPTIANS. 

HE  EGYPTIANS  never  committed  the  same  excesses 
as  the  Romans  under  the  Empires,  but  they  gave  way 
to  intemperance  and  luxury  after  the  Persian  conquests, 
and  the  accession  of  the  Ptolomies  ;  so  that  writers  who- 
mention  them  at  that  period,  describe  the  Egyptians  as 
a  profligate,  and  luxurious  people,  addicted  to  an  immoderate 
love  of  the  table,  and  to  every  excess  in  drinking.  They 
even  used  excidants  for  this  purpose,  and  hors  d1  ceuvres  were 
provided  to  stimulate  the  appetite  ;  crude  cabbage,  provoking  the 
desire  for  wine,  and  the  continuation  of  excess.  As  is  the  custom  in- 
Egypt,  and  other  hot  countries,  at  the  present  day,  they  cooked  the 
meat  as  soon  as  killed  ;  with  the  same  view  of  having  it  tender, 
which  makes  northern  people  keep  it  until  decomposition  is  begin- 
ning ;  and  this  explains  the  order  of  Joseph  to  "  slay  and  make 
ready  "  for  his  brethren  to  dine  with  him  the  same  day  at  noon.  As^ 
soon,  therefore,  as  this  had  been  done,  and  the  joints  were  all  ready, 
the  kitchen  represented  an  animated  scene,  and  the  cooks  were  busy- 
in  their  different  departments.  One  regulated  the  heat  of  the  fire, 
raising  it  with  a  poker,  or  blowing  it  with  bellows,  worked  by  the 
feet ;  another  superintended  the  cooking  of  the  meat,  skimming  the 
water  with  a  spoon,  or  stirring  it  with  a  large  fork,  while  a  third 
pounded  salt,  pepper,  or  other  ingredients,  in  a  large  mortar,  which 
were  added  from  time  to  time  during  this  process.  Liquids  of  various 
kinds  also  stood  ready  for  use,  which  were  sometimes  drawn  off  by 
means  of  siphons  ;  and  those  things  they  wished  to  raise  beyond  the 
reach  of  rats  or  other  intruders,  were  placed  upon  trays,  and  pulled 
up  by  ropes  running  through  rings  in  the  ceiling,  answering  the 
purposes  of  a  safe.  Other  servants  took  charge  of  the  pastry, 
which  the  bakers  or  confectioners  had  made  for  the  dinner  table, 
and  this  department,  which  may  be  considered  as  attached  to- 
the  kitchen,  appears  even  more  varied  than  that  of  the  cook. 
Some  sifted  and  mixed  the  flour,  others  kneaded  the  paste 


with  their  hands,  and  formed  it  into  rolls,  which  were  then 
prepared  for  baking  and  being  placed  on  a  long  tray  or  board,  were 
carried  on  a  man's  head  to  the  oven.  Sometimes  they  kneaded  the 
paste  with  their  feet,  having  placed  it  in  a  large  wooden  bowl  on  the 
ground  ;  it  was  then  in  a  more  liquid  state  than  when  mixed  by  the 
hands,  and  was  carried  in  vases  to  the  pastry-cook,  who  formed  it 
into  a  sort  of  a  maccaroni  upon  a  shallow  metal  pan  over  the  fire. 
Two  persons  were  engaged  in  this  process  ;  one  stirring  it  with  a 
wooden  patula,  and  the  other  taking  it  off  when  cooked,  with  two 
pointed  sticks,  who  arranged  it  in  a  proper  place  where  the  rest  of 
the  pastry  was  kept.  This  last  was  of  various  kinds,  apparently 
made  up  with  fruit,  or  other  ingredients,  with  which  the  dough, 
spread  out  by  the  hand,  was  sometimes  mixed,  and  it  assumed  the 
shape  of  a  three-cornered  cake,  a  recumbent  ox,  a  leaf,  a  crocodile's1 
head,  a  heart,  or  any  other  form  according  to  the  fancy  of  the  con- 
fectioner. That  dinner  was  served  up  at  midday,  may  be  inferred 
by  the  invitations  given  by  Joseph  to  his  brethren,  but  it  is  probable 
that,  like  the  Romans,  they  also  ate  supper  in  the  evening,  as  is 
still  the  custom  in  the  Hast.  The  table  was  much  the  same  as  that 
of  the  present  day  in  Egypt  :  a  small  stool,  supporting  a  round  tray 
on  whrch  the  dishes  are  placed  ;  but  it  is  different  from  this  by 
having  its  circular  summit  fixed  on  a  pillar,  a  leg  which  was  often 
in  the  form  of  a  man,  generally  a  captive,  who  supported  the  slab 
upon  his  head,  the  whole  being  of  stone  or  some  hard  wood.  On 
this  the  dishes  were  placed,  together  with  loaves  of  -bread,  some  of 
which  were  not  unlike  those  of  the  present  day  in  Egypt,  flat  and 
round  as  our  crumpets.  Others  had  the  form  of  rolls  or  cakes, 
sprinkled  with  seeds.  It  was  not  generally  covered  with  any  linen  ; 
but  like  the  Greek  table,  was  washed  with  a  sponge,  or  napkin  after 
the  dishes  were  removed,  and  polished  by  the  servants,  when  the 
company  had  retired  ;  though  an  instance  sometimes  occurs  of  a 
napkin  spread  on  it,  at  least  on  those  who  bore  offerings  in  honor  of 
the  dead.  One  or  two  guests  .generally  sat  at  a  table,  though,  from 
the  mentions  of  persons,  seated  in  rows  according  to  rank,  it  has  been 
supposed  the  tables  were  occasionally  of  a  long  shape,  as  may  have 
been  the  case  when  the  brethren  of  Joseph  "  sat  before  him,  the  first 
one  according  to  his  birthright,  and  the  youngest  according  to  his 
youth,"  Joseph  eating  alone  at  another  table,  where  "they  set  on 
for  him  by  himself."  But  even  if  round,  they  might  still  sit  accord- 
ing to  rank,  one  place  being  always  the  post  of  honor, -even  at  the 
present  day,  at  the  round  table  of  Egypt.  The  tables,  as  at  a  Roman 

Ghiradelli's  Breakfast  Cocoa.     The  Best 


THIS   INNER   IVIAN 

repast,  were  occasionally  brought  in  and  removed,  with  the  dishes 
on  them  ;  sometimes  each  j'oint  was  served  up  separately,  and  the 
fruit,  deposited  in  a  plate  or  trencher,  succeeded  the  meat  at  the  close 
of  dinner  ;  but  in  less  fashionable  circles,  particularly  of  the  olden 
time,  fruit  was  brought  in  baskets,  which  stood  beside  the  table. 
The  dishes  consisted  of  fish,  meat,  boiled,  roasted  and  dressed  in 
various  ways  ;  game,  poultry,  and  a  profusion  of  vegetables  and 
fruit,  particularly,  figs  and  grapes,  during  the  season,  and  a  soup,  or 
a  pottage  of  lentils,  "  as  with  modern  Egyptians,"  was  not  an  unusual 
dish.  Of  figs  and  grapes  they  were  particularly  fond,  which  is  shown 
by  their  constant  introduction  among  the  choice  offerings  pre- 
sented to  the  gods  ;  and  figs  of  the  sycamore  must  have  been  highly 
esteemed,  since  they  were  selected  as  the  heavenly  fruit,  given  by 
the  goddess  Nepte  to  those  who  were  judged  worthy  of  admission  to 
the  regions  of  eternal  happiness.  FJ  esh  dates  during  the  season  and 
dried  at  other  periods  of  the  year,  were  also  brought  to  table,  as 
well  as  a  preserve  of  the  fruit,  made  into  a  cake  of  the  same  form  as 
the  tamarinds  now  brought  from  the  interior  of  Africa  and  sold  in 
the  Cairo  market.  The  guests  sat  on  the  ground,  or  on  stools  and 
chairs,  and  having  neither  knives  nor  forks,  nor  any  substitute  for 
them  answering  to  the  chop-sticks  of  the  Chinese,  they  ate  with  their 
fingers,  like  the  modern  Asiatics,  and  invariably  with  the  right 
hand  ;  spoons  were  introduced  when  required  for  soup,  or  other 
liquids  ;  and  perhaps  even  a  knife  was  employed  on  some  occasions, 
to  facilitate  the  carving  of  a  large  joint,  which  is  sometimes  done  in 
the  East  at  the  present  day. 

THE  INGLENOOK  VINEYARD.— The  wines  of  California 
have  had  in  Captain  Gustave  Niebaum  of  the  celebrated  Inglenook 
Vineyard,  a  consistent,  intelligent  and  enthusiastic  friend.  He  has 
made  a  close  study  of  the  best  methods  of  producing  the  best  wines 
and  the  rules  he  has  adopted  are  an  epitome  of  the  art  of  the  viti- 
culturist.  Captain  Niebaum  says,  "To  produce  the  finest  wines  to 
equal  and  excel  the  most  famous  vintages  of  Europe,  it  is  necessary 
to  have  the  right  kind  of  vines  grown  on  suitable  soils,  well  manured: 
the  most  perfect  cleanliness  in  handling,  constant  care  and  proper 
age.  No  art  or  trick  of  machinery  can  make  up  for  the  absence  of  any 
of  these  things."  These  certainly  are  golden  rules  for  the  viticul- 
turists  and  to  their  strict  observance  is  due  the  reputation  these  wines 
have  obtained,  and  the  credit  they  have  conferred  upon  the  State  as 
a  native  production.  Mr.  F.  A.  Haber,  122  Sansome  St.,  is  the  sole 
representative  for  the  Inglenook  wines,  and  in  1884,  being  then  a  mem- 


THE    INNER    IVIAN  39 

ber  of  the  firm  of  Alfred  Greenebaum  &  Co.,  and  recognized  as  a  con- 
noisseur of  marked  ability,  reported  after  an  exhaustive  examination 
of  Captain  Niebaum's  wines  upon  their  quality.  Mr.  Haber's  sug- 
gestions as  to  blends  were  followed  out  ;  and  then  fifty  cases  of  these 
wines  were  distributed  throughout  the  world  to  experts.  An  almost 
unanimous  response  was  received  that  the  wines  were  good  and  a  sur- 
prise expressed  that  California  could  produce  such  admirable  qualities. 

When  Mr.  Haber  visited  New  York  with  the  object  of  introduc- 
ing the  Inglenook  wines  to  the  connoisseurs  of  the  East,  his  claims 
to  possessing  an  article  that  might  eventually  rival  the  productions 
of  the  Old  World  vineyards,  were  received  with  incredualty.  But 
when  the  leading  members  of  the  foremost  importing  houses  tasted 
the  Inglenook  wines,  they  were  profuse  in  their  congratulations  and 
assured  Mr.  Haber  that  they  did  not  believe  that  California  wines 
could  attain  such  excellence.  The  demand  then  became  immediate 
and  the  Inglenook  wines  found  a  welcome  in  every  large  city  in  the 
Union.  To  a  very  cleverly  written  brochure  of  the  Inglenook  vine- 
yard the  following  extract  is  due. 

"  Situated  a  few  miles  from  the  entrance  to  the  middle  section 
of  Napa  Valley,  Inglenook  is  a  spot  of  indescribable  loveliness  in 
the  midst  of  charming  surroundings.  Those  who  only  know  our 
California  scenery  by  a  dash  over  the  Sierras  and  a  ride  through  the 
dusty  plains  of  the  San  Joaquin,  can  haVe  no  conception  of  the 
beauties  of  this  magnificent  estate.  Behind  the  tree-bowered  nook 
from  which  the  place  takes  its  name,  rises  a  chain  of  mountains.  A 
tall  cascade  leaps  down  their  side,  and  goes  to  swell  the  stream  that 
ripples  through  the  floor  of  the  valley.  To  the  north  Mount  St. 
Helena,  a  few  miles  away,  rears  its  head  4,000  feet  above  the  sea, 
like  a  gallant  sentinel  overlooking  an  earthly  paradise.  East  are 
ranges  of  low  hills  covered  with  verdure  and  adorned  with  evergreen 
tree  and  shrubs  of  all  kinds  from  the  stalwart  oak  to  the  gleaming 
madrono,  adding  variety  and  charm  to  the  landscape.  South  the  val- 
ley gradually  narrows  and  then  broadens  out  again  into  wide  ranges 
of  vineyards  and  orchards  and  vast  lordly  redwood  trees  mingle  with 
the  oak,  laurel  and  pine  in  decking  the  sides  of  some  of  the  grandest 
and  loveliest  canons  that  ever  delighted  a  lover  of  magnificent  scenery. 
The  Inglenook  Vineyard  is  situated  at  Rutherford,  Napa  County,  just 
three  hours'  run  from  San  Francisco,  and  visitors  are  always  courte- 
ously received  and  entertained.  Mr.  F.  A.  Haber's  office  and  depot 
is  at  122  Sansome  street,  but  he  has  agents  in  all  the  prominent  cities 
of  the  United  States,  also  in  London,  England. 


A  Napa  Soda  Lemonade  is  a  Luxury 


CHAPTER  VI 

THE  CUISINE  OF  OTHER  LANDS — THE  BONNE-BOUCHE  OF  THE  AFRICAN  EPICURE- 
HOW  DELICACIES  ARE  COOKED  AND  SERVED  IN  THO.SE  COUNTRIES — 
WHAT  THE  JAPANESE  AND  CHINESE  CONSIDER  THEIR 
CHOICE  PLATS— KANAKA  FEASTS. 

S  A  RULE  in  Africa  there  is  only  one  principal 
meal.  It  mostly  consists  of  parrot  soup,  roasted  or 
istewed  monkeys,  alligator  eggs  (also  well  liked  by 
| Caucasians),  and  birds  of  every  description.  They 
also  have  moambo  or  palm-chops  and  fish.  A  great 
delicacy,  so  consfdered  by  Caucasians  and  natives 
alike,  is  elephant's  trunk  and  feet.  They  have 
somewhat  the  taste  of  veal,  and  a  very  delicious 
flavor.  To  prepare  them  they  dig  a  hole,  about  five 
feet  deep,  in  the  sand  and  build  in  it  a  large  fire. 
After  the  sand  is  thoroughly  heated,  the  fire  is  removed,  leaving  only 
the  ashes  in  the  hole.  They  place  the  trunk  and  feet  in  this  hole 
covering  them  with  leaves,  and  afterwards  hot  sand  ;  they  remain 
there  about  two  hours  when  they  are  considered  done.  All  carcasses 
of  animals  which  are  to  be  cooked,  are  placed  on  a  block  of  wood,  and 
pounded  until  every  bone  is  broken,  care  being  taken  not  to  tear  or 
bruise  the  skin.  They  are  then  broiled  or  roasted  on  an  open  wood 
fire,  in  hot  sand  or  ashes,  without  removing  the  hide  or  feathers.  The 
cooking  is  of  a  very  inferior  grade,  the  only  spices  used  being  salt  and 
pepper.  The  kitchen  utensils  consist  of  common  earthen  or  wooden 
ware.  Very  little  time  is  spent  in  decorating  the  table.  Knives, 
forks,  napkins,  etc.,  etc.,  are  dispensed  with.  All  victuals  are  served 
in  large  wooden  vessels.  After  the  members  of  the  chiefs  house- 
hold and  guests  have  assembled,  each  person  is  supplied  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  and  selects  whatever  he  chooses  out  of  the  different 
vessels,  using  his  hands  in  eating  it.  In  the  line  of  vegetables  they 
have  also  several  dishes  well  liked  by  Caucasians.  N'gutti-N'suigo 
is  a  dish  eaten  all  over  Africa.  It  consists  of  egg-plant,  small  fish, 
somewhat  like  our  sardines  (N'suigo),  and  the  roots  of  the  cassava 
or  manioca  plant  (called  N'gutti),  which  have  a  knotty  appearance, 
and  often  weigh  as  much  as  twenty  pounds.  As  the  latter  contains 
poison,  they  soak  the  manioca  in  water  for  three  or  four  days  to 

43 

Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


44  THE:  INNER. 

extract  the  poisonous  substance.  They  are  cut  and  sliced,  adding 
small  tomatoes.  All  is  placed  in  a  vessel  with  water,  and  seasoned 
with  pepper  and  salt  and  boiled.  Moambo,  or,  as  the  Caucasians 
call  it,  palm-chops,  is  also  a  favorite  dish.  The  palm-nuts  are  first 
boiled  in  water,  until  the  pulpy  substance  loosens  from  the  pit; 
then  the  shell,  which  contains  a  very  delicious  oil,  is  placed  in  a 
wooden  mortar  and  crushed  so  as  to  obtain  the  oil.  Then  whatever 
the  meal  consists  of,  meat,  fish,  mussels,  etc.,  is  put  in  a  vessel, 
adding  the  oil  and  the  pulpy  part  of  the  palm-nut,  also  red  pepper 
and  salt,  and  is  boiled.  Roast  or  boiled  squash  (Loenge)  is  gener- 
ally eaten  with  it.  Sweet  potatoes  (M'balla  Burga)  farinaceous, 
and  sweeter  than  ours,  but  do  not  taste  so  good.  They  are  boiled 
or  roasted  in  the  same  way  we  do  here.  Bananas  (Bitaebe)  weigh 
about  a  half  pound  each  and  are  fifceen  inches  long.  When  ripe 
they  are  cut  in  slices  adding  much  salt  and  pepper  and  boiled. 
N'smsi  is  a  little  red  bean,  which  is  boiled  in  water  without  salt  or 
pepper.  Peanut  bread  (Chisulu):  the  peanuts  are  first  roasted,  then 
crushed.  This  mass  is  then  rolled  and  put  into  the  skin  of  a 
banana,  adding  a  little  pressure,  forming  it  into  a  body.  It  readily 
retains  this  shape  from  the  presence  of  the  oily  substance  in  the  pea- 
nut. 

As  to  the  Chinese  at  their  formal  dinners  or  feasts,  no  menus  are 
used.  The  bill  of  fare  consists  of  an  interminable  list  of  dishes. 
The  tables  are  laid  with  such  dishes  as  shark-fins,  beche-de-rner 
fish,  fish  soup,  chicken  soup,  duck  soup,  rice,  rice,  rice,  and  tea, 
tea,  tea,  and  tea;  not  forgetting  the  edible  birds'  nests,  candies  and 
cakes.  One's  appetite  is  almost  taken  away  on  entering  a  Chinese 
house  at  which  a  banquet  is  to  be  given,  the  effect  of  burning  incense 
and  other  vile  herbs.  The  Chinese  can  be  extremely  polite.  Cham- 
pagne is  a  favorite  drink  among  the  Chinese  officials  at  the  Treaty 
Ports,  and  is  always  brought  out  when  they  have  a  foreign  guest. 

A  most  delicious  sauce  which  the  Japanese  call  "Thoyw,"  which 
is  the  basis  of  Worcestershire  Sauce,  is  also  used  to  give  spice  to  the 
food.  Throughout  the  repast  the  guests  are  served  from  time  to 
time  with  "  Saki,"  a  pale  liquor  made  from  rice,  and  which  tastes 
very  much  like  sherry.  It  is  served  hot  and  is  a  most  insinuating 
tipple.  In  a  large  party  you  are  expected  to  exchange  cups  and 
drink  with  every  one  present.  The  result  is  that,  in  nine  cases  out 
often,  you  leave  the  house  "just  a  wee  bit  fu',  "  as  they  say  in 
Scotland.  Like  the  Chinese,  no  forks,  knives  or  napkins  are  used— 
''chop-sticks"  only.  To  smack  your  lips  or  belch  during  the  feast  is, 


THE:    INNER    MAN  45 

strange  to  say  of  such  a  supremely  polite  people,  not  considered  bad 
form.  In  Corea  Chinese  fashions  are  very  closely  followed.  Greasy 
messes  and  appetite -destroying  smells  are  their  most  characteristic 
features.  The  food  is  always  conveyed  to  the  mouth  by  the  aid  of 
"chop-sticks,"  and  during  the  progress  of  a  meal  the  mind  becomes 
catered  to  by  an  animated  conversation. 

Among  the  Kanakas,  the  food  eaten  for  breakfast,  lunch  and 
dinner,  is  about  the  same,  and  consists  chiefly  of  the  native  dish 
called  "Poi,"  which  is  eaten  whenever  they  (the  Kanakas)  are 
hungry.  "Poi"  is  made  from  a  root  called  "Taro,"  and  in  shape 
and  size  resembles  a  raw  beet.  It  has  a  dark  skin,  and  the  vege- 
table itself  has  a  variety  of  colors — pink,  gray,  purple  and  white. 
The  "Taro"  is  cooked  in  the  ground  after  the  manner  of  a  "  New 
England  clam-bake";  after  obtaining  the  softness  of  a  cooked  potato 
it  is  peeled  and  beaten  with  a  large  stone  or  iron  made  for  that  pur- 
pose into  a  pulp.  It  is  then  mixed  with  water  until  it  forms  the 
thickness  of  a  paste  (and  which  makes  a  very  good  paste  as  it  is 
often  used  to  stick  bills,  etc.,  when  a  theatrical  company  arrives), 
and  after  standing  a  few  days,  to  allow  it  to  ferment,  it  is  ready  to 
be  eaten.  The  "Poi"  is  always  eaten  out  of  a  "Calabash"  (a  large 
gourd  about  the  size  of  a  pumpkin),  the  natives  always  eating  with 
their  fingers,  this  being  done  by  sticking  the  two  fore-fingers  into 
the  "Calabash,"  giving  it  one  or  two  twists  and  dexterously  turn- 
ing it  around  in  front  of  their  faces  until  it  looks  like  a  ball  of  "taffy 
on  a  stick"  (no  pun  intended).  "Taro"  is  sometimes  cooked  and 
eaten  like  potatoes  and  is  considered  very  wholesome  food.  The 
next  important  dish  is  "Raw  Fish,"  which  are  caught  along  the 
coast  and  eagerly  eaten  by  the  natives.  Fish  is  also  cooked  in  the 
ground  and  is  served  on  large  leaves  about  the  size  of  pal  in  leaves, 
called  "Ti"  leaves.  Raw  meat,  raw  liver  and  fragrant  seaweed 
form  delicate  side  dishes.  Coffee,  within  the  last  few  years,  has  to  a 
grert  extent  been  drank  as  a  beverage,  but  not  so  much  as  the 
Hawaiian  tea,  which  tastes  and  smells  like  medicine.  Vegetables 
are  also  eaten,  but  sparingly,  comprising  sweet  potatoes,  Irish  pota- 
toes, cabbages,  etc.  Fruit,  the  product  of  the  islands,  is  very  much 
eaten  and  relished,  such  as  guavas,  mangoes,  mountain  apples, 
bananas,  oranges,  etc.  The  Hawaiians,  when  eating,  always  sit  on 
mats.  All  eat  out  of  the  same  calabash.  After  eating,  it  is  the  cus. 
torn  to  pass  the  pipe  of  friendship,  which  is  a  small  pipe  made  from 
shark's  teeth. 


Napa  Soda  Water  Cures  Dyspepsia 


CHAPTER  VII 

THE  DISCOVERY  OF    CHAMP AGN*E— A.v  OLD  TRADITION    OP    REIMS— THE   Goon 
DOM  PERIGNON — WHAT  WE  OWE  THAT  WORTHY  MONK 


N  THE  YEAR  1860,  among  the  sunny  vine}  ard  slopes 
rising  from  the  poplar-fringed  Marne,  there  stood  in  all 
its  pride  the  famous  royal  abbey  of  St.  Peter  at  Haut- 
villers.  Its  foundation,  of  remote  antiquity,  was  hal- 
lowed by  saintly  legend.  Tradition  said  that  about  the 
middle  of  the  seventh  century,  St.  Nivard,  bishop  of  Reims,  and  his 
godson,  St.  Bercher,  were  seeking  a  suitable  spot  for  the  erection  of 
a  monastery  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  The  way  was  long,  the  day 
was  warm,  and  the  saints  but  mortal.  Weary  and  faint,  they  sat 
down  to  rest  at  a  spot  identified  by  tradition  with  a  vineyard  at 
Dizy,  to-day  belonging  to  Messrs.  Bellinger,  but  at  that  time  form- 
ing p'irt  of  the  forest  of  the  Marne.  St.  Nivard  fell  asleep  with  his 
head  on  St.  Bercher' s  lap,  when  the  one  in  a  dream,  and  the  other 
with  waking  eyes,  saw  a  snow-white  dove — the  same,  firm  believers 
in  miracles  suggested,  which  had  brought  down  the  holy  oil  for  the 
annointment  of  Clovis  at  his  coronation  at  Reims — flutter  through  the 
wood  and  finally  alight  afar  off  on  the  stump  of  a  tree.  Such  an  omen 
could  no  more  be  neglected  by  a  seventh-century  saint  than  a  slate 
full  of  scribbles  by  a  nineteenth-century  spiritualist,  and  accordingly 
the  site  thus  miraculously  indicated  was  forthwith  decided  upon. 
Plans  for  the  edifice  were  duly  drawn  out  and  approved  of,  and  the 
abbey  rose  in  stately  majesty,  the  high  altar  at  which  St.  Bercher  was 
solemnly  invested  with  symbols  of  abbatial  dignity  being  erected  upon 
the  precise  spot  occupied  by  the  tree  on  which  the  snow-white  dove 
had  alighted.  As  time  rolled  on  and  pious  donations  poured  in,  the 
abbey  waxed  in  importance,  altogether  it  was  sacked  by  the  Nor- 
mans when  they  ravaged  the  Champagne,  and  was  twice  destroyed 
by  fire — once  in  1098,  and  again  in  1440 — when  each  time  it  rose 
phoenix-like  from  its  ashes.  In  1670  the  abbey  was  in  all  its  glory. 
True,  it  had  been  somewhat  damaged  a  century  previous  by  the 
Huguenots,  who  had  fired  the  church,  driven  out  the  monks,  sacked 
the  wine  cellars,  burnt  the  archives,  and  committed  sundry  other 
depredations,  inherent  to  civil  and  religious  warfare;  but  the  liberal 
contributions  of  the  faithful,  including  Queen  Maria  de  Medic  K 

50 


;   IXXKR 


had  helped  to  efface  all  traces  of  their  visit.  The  abbey  boasted 
many  precious  relics  rescued  from  the  Reformer's  fury,  the  most 
important  being  the  body  of  St.  Helena,  the  mother  of  Constantine 
the  Great,  which  had  been  in  its  possession  ever  since  844,  and 
attracted  numerous  pilgrims.  The  hierarchical  status  of  the  abbey 
was  high;  for  no  less  than  nine  archbishops  had  passed  forth 
through  its  stately  portals  to  the  see  of  Reims,  and  twenty-two 
abbots,  including  the  venerable  Peter  of  Cluny,  to  various  distin. 
guished  monasteries.  Its  territorial  possessions  were  extensive  ;  for  its 
abbot  was  lord  of  Hautvillers,  Comieres,  Cormoyean,  Bomery  and  Dizy 
la  Riviere,  and  had  all  manner  of  rights  of  fourmage,  and  hue/tag  er 
vinage  and  pressoir  banal,  and  the  like,  to  the  benefit  of  the  monks, 
and  the  misfortune  of  their  numerous  dependents.  Its  revenues  were 
ample,  and  no  small  portion  was  derived  from  the  tithes  of  fair  and 
fertile  vine  lands  extending  for  miles  around,  and  from  the  vine- 
yards that  the  monks  themselves  cultivated  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
borhood of  the  abbey.  It  should  be  remembered  that  for  a  lengthy 
period  —  not  only  in  France,  but  in  other  countries  —  the  choicest 
wines  were  those  produced  in  vineyards  belonging  to  the  church, 
and  that  the  vinum  theologium  was  justly  held  superior  to  all  others. 
The  rich  chapters  and  monasteries  were  more  studious  of  the  quali- 
ties than  of  the  quantity  of  their  vintages;  their  land  was  tilled  with 
particular  care,  and  the  learning,  of  which  in  the  Middle  Ages  they 
were  almost  the  sole  depositaries,  combined  with  opportunities  of 
observation  enjoyed  by  the  members  of  these  fraternities  by  reason 
of  their  retired  pursuits,  made  them  acquainted  at  a  very  early  period 
with  a  method  of  controlling  the  fermentation  of  the  grape  and 
ameliorating  its  produce.  To  the  monks  oF  Bige  we  owe  Chamber- 
tin,  the  favorite  wine  of  the  first  Napoleon  ;  to  the  Cistercians, 
Citualx  the  perfection  of  that  Clos  Vougeot,  which  passing  regi- 
ments saluted  tambour  battant  ;  and  the  Benedictines  of  Hautvillers 
were  equally  regardful  of  the  renown  of  their  wines  and  vineyards. 
In  1636  they  cultivated  one  hundred  arpints  themselves,  their  pos- 
sessions including  the  vineyards  now  known  as  Les  Quartiers  and 
Les  Prieres  at  Hautvillers,  and  Les  Barillits,  Sainte  Heline  and 
Cotes-a-bras  at  Comieries.  the  last  named  of  which  still  retains  a 
high  reputation. 

Over  these  vineyards  there  presided  in  1670  a  worthy  Bene- 
dictine named  Dom  Perignon,  who  was  destined  to  gain  for  the 
abbey  a  more  world-wide  fame  than  the  devoutest  of  its  monks  or 
the  proudest  of  its  abbots.  His  position  was  an  onerous  one,  for 


Indigestion  Dies  where  Napa  Soda  Lives 


M  THE    INNER 

the  reputation  of  the  wine  was  considerable,  and  it  was  necessary  to 
maintain  it.  Henry  of  Andelys  has  sung  its  praises  as  early  as  the 
thirteenth  century,  and  St.  Kvremond,  though  absent  from  France 
for  nearly  half  a  score  years,  wrote  of  it  in  terms  proving  that  he 
had  preserved  a  lively  recollection  of  its  merits.  Dom  Perignon  was 
born  at  Sainte  Menehould  in  1638,  and  had  been  elected  to  the 
post  of  procurer  of  the  abbey  about  1668  on  account  of  the  purity 
of  his  taste  and  the  soundness  of  his  head.  He  proved  himself  fully 
equal  to  the  momentous  task,  devotion  to  which  did  not  seem  to 
have  shortened  his  days,  since  he  died  at  the  ripe  old  age  of  seventy- 
seven.  It  was  Dom  Perignon's  duty  to  superintend  the  abbey  vine- 
yards, supervise  the  making  of  the  wine,  and  see  after  the  tithes, 
paid  either  in  wine  or  grapes  by  the  neighboring  cultivators  to  their 
seignorial  lord  of  the  abbey.  The  wine  which  thus  came  into  his 
charge  was  naturally  of  various  qualities;  and  having  noted  that 
one  kind  of  soil  imparted  fragrance  and  another  generosity,  while 
the  produce  of  others  was  deficient  in  both  of  these  attributes,  Dom 
Perignon,  in  the  spirit  of  a  true  Benedictine,  hit  upon  the  happy 
idea  of  "marrying,"  or  blending,  the  produce  of  different  vineyards 
together,  a  practice  which  is  to-day  very  generally  followed  by  the 
manufacturers  of  Champagne.  Such  was  the  perfection  of  Dom 
Perignon's  skill  and  the  delicacy  of  his  palate,  that  in  his  later  years, 
when  blind  from  age,  he  used  to  have  the  grapes  of  the  different  dis- 
tricts brought  to  him,  and  recognizing  each  kind  by  its  flavor  would 
say,  "You  must  marry  the  wine  of  this  vineyard  with  that  of  such 
another."  But  the  crowning  of  the  Benedictine's  long  and  useful 
life  remains  to  be  told.  He  succeeded  in  obtaining  for  the  first  time 
in  the  Champagne,  a  perfectly  white  wine  from  black  grapes,  that 
hitherto  made  having  been  gray,  or  of  a  straw  color.  Moreover,  by 
some  happy  accident,  or  by  a  series  of  experimental  researches — 
for  the  exact  facts  of  the  discovery  are  lost  forever — he  hit  upon  a 
method  of  regulating  the  tendency  of  the  wines  of  this  region  to 
effervesce,  and,  by  paying  regard  to  the  epoch  of  bottling,  finally 
succeeded  in  producing  a  perfectly  sparkling  wine,  that  burst  forth 
from  the  bottle  and  overflowed  the  glass  and  was  twice  as  dainty  to 
the  palate,  and  twice  as  exhilarating  in  its  effects,  as  the  ordinary 
wine  of  the  Champagne.  A  correlative  result  of  his  investigations 
was  the  present  system  of  corking  bottles,  a  wisp  or  two  dipped  in 
oil  being  the  sole  stopper  in  use  prior  to  his  time.  To  him,  too,  we 
owe  not  only  sparkling  Champagne  itself,  but  the  proper  kind  of  a 
glass  to  drink  it  out  of.  The  tall,  thin,  tapering  flute  was  adopted. 


THE    INNER    NIAN  53 

if  not  invented  by  him,  in  order,  as  he  said,  that  he  might  watch 
the  dance  of  the  sparkling  atoms.  The  exact  date  of  Dorn  Perig- 
non's  discovery  of  sparkling  wines  seems  to  be  wrapped  in  much  the 
same  obscurity  as  are  the  various  attendant  circumstances.  It  was 
certainly  prior  to  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century,  as  the  author 
of  an  anonymous  treatise,  printed  at  Reims  in  1718,  remarked  that  for 
more  than  twenty  years  past  the  taste  of  the  French  had  inclined 
toward  sparkling  wines,  which  they  "frantically  adored,"  though 
during  the  last  three  years  they  had  grown  a  little  out  of  conceit 
with  them.  This  would  place  it  at  1697  at  tne  latest.  To  Dom 
Perignon  the  well-stocked  cellar  was  a  far  cheerfuller  place  than 
the  cell.  Nothing  delighted  him  more  than 

To  come  down  among  his  brotherhood 
Dwelling  forever  underground, 
Silent,  contemplative,  round  and  sound ; 

Each  one  old  and  brown  with  mould, 

But  filled  to  the  lips  with  the  ardour  of  youth- 
With  the  latent  power  and  love  of  truth, 

And  with  virtues  fervent  and  manifold. 

Ever  busy  among  his  vats  and  presses,  barrels  and  bottles,  Per- 
ignon found  out  a  method  of  clearing  wine,  so  as  to  preserve  it 
limpid  and  free  from  all  deposit,  without  being  obliged,  like  all  who 
sought  to  rival  him  in  its  production,  to  depoter  the  bottles — that  is, 
to  decant  their  contents  into  fresh  ones.  This  secret,  which  helped 
to  maintain  the  high  reputation  of  the  wine  of  Hautvillers  when  the 
manufacture  of  sparkling  Champagne  had  extended  throughout  the 
district,  he  guarded  even  better  than  he  was  able  to  guard  the 
apple  of  his  eye.  At  his  death  in  1715,  he  revealed  it  only  to  his 
successor,  Frere  Philippe,  who,  after  holding  sway  over  vat  and 
vineyard  for  fifty  years,  died  in  1765,  imparting  it  with  his  last 
breath  to  Frere  Andre  Lemaire.  Revoked  perforce  from  his  func- 
tions by  the  French  Revolution,  he,  in  turn,  before  his  death  about 
1795,  communicated  it  to  Dom  Grossart,  who  exults  over  the  fact, 
that  whilst  the  greatest  Champagne  merchants  were  obliged  to 
depoter,  the  monks  of  Hautvillers  had  never  done  so.  Dom  Gros- 
sart, who  had  counted  the  Moe'ts  amongst  his  customers,  died  in  his 
turn  without  making  any  sign,  so  that  the  secret  of  Perignon  per- 
ished with  him.  Prior  to  that  event,  however,  the  present  system 
Q{  degorgeage  was  discovered,  and  eventually  dSpotage  was  no  longer 
practiced.  The  material  result  of  Dom  Perignon's  were  such  that 
one  of  the  presses  of  the  abbey  bore  this  inscription:  "  M.  de  Four- 


Ladies  Drink  Napa   Soda  for  Complexion 


54 

ville,  abbot  of  this  abbey,  had  me  constructed  in  the  year  1694,  and 
that  same  year  sold  his  wine  at  a  thousand  livers  the  quene."  Their 
mortal  effect  was  so  complete  that  his  name  became  identified  with 
the  wine  of  the  abbey.  People  asked  for  the  wine  of  Perignon,  till 
they  forgot  that  he  was  a  man  and  not  a  vineyard,  and  within  a 
year  of  his  death  his  name  figures  among  a  list  of  the  wine  produc- 
ing slopes  of  the  Champagne.  His  reputation  has  outlasted  the 
walls  within  which  he  carried  on  his  labors,  and  his  merits  are 
recorded  in  conventual  Latin  of  the  period  on  a  black  marble  slab 
still  to  be  seen  within  the  altar  steps  of  the  abbey  church  of  Haut- 
villers. 


A.  P.  HOTALING  &  CO.— When  A.  P.  Hotaling  &  Co. 
accepted  the  Pacific  coast  agency  of  the  J.  H.  Cutter  whiskey,  it 
was  almost  unknown  in  this  part  of 'the  Union.  The  first  agent, 
Mr.  George  Park,  formerly  of  the  Bank  Exchange,  had  not  exerted 
himself  to  bring  the  whiskey  into  notice  ;  but  now,  from  the  few 
barrels  sold  while  he  had  charge  of  the  fortunes  of  the  J.  H.  Cutter 
brand,  an  enormous  trade  has  built  up.  The  house  of  A.  P.  Hota- 
ling &  Co.,  who  were  instrumental  in  this  result,  now  import  and 
sell  from  1,500  to  2,000  barrels  a  year,  and  the  demand  is  constantly 
growing.  The  genuine  Cutter  Bourbon  is  known  and  appreciated  in 
every  city,  town,  and  village,  from  Alaska  to  the  borders  of  Sonora, 
and  from  Salt  Lake  to  the  Pacific  seaboard.  The  foundation  of  Mr. 
Hotaling's  present  ample  wealth,  was  laid  in  the  old  one-story 
wooden  building  at  the  northeast  corner  of  Sarfsome  and  Jackson 
streets,  erected  by  Charles  Schultz,  the  husband  of  Madame  Anna 
Bishop,  early  in  the  fifties.  Mr.  Hotaling  occupied  these  premises 
about  eight  years,  and  his  fondness  for  the  earlier  and  pleasant  asso- 
ciations connected  with  the  place  is  proven  by  the  fact  that  a  hand- 
some oil-painting  of  the  unpretending  store  now  adorns  the  walls  of 
his  private  office.  It  was  in  this  one-story  wooden  structure  that 
Hotaling  established  that  character  for  honesty  in  dealing,  and  per- 
sistency of  purpose,  which  has  gained  him  so  valuable  a  reputation, 
not  only  in  this  city,  but  all  over  the  Pacific  coast — a  reputation 
which,  to  a  business  man,  is  as  good  as  refined  gold  or  Golconda's 
diamonds.  We  think  history  and  the  statistics  of  history  will  show 
that  American  whiskey  has  had,  relatively,  a  humanizing  influence 
on  the  race.  We  do  not  think  the  people  are  as  cruel,  nowadays,  as 
when  the  more  fiery  stimulants  of  rum  and  brandy  were  the  general 
drinks.  We  really  think  a  man  becomes  more  amiable  under  the 


INNKR    IVLAN  55 

effect  of  pure  Kentucky  corn  juice  than  he  does  under  the  influence 
of  the  extract  of  Jamaica  cane  ;  and,  therefore,  conclude  that,  for  a 
spirit  stimulant,  whiskey  is  the  best  that  can  be  taken,  always  keep- 
ing in  view,  of  course,  the  essential  condition  of  its  absolute  purity. 
Physicians,  however,  are  culpably  careless  sometimes,  in  ordering 
whiskey,  when  they  have  patients  requiring  alcoholic  stimulants. 
They  should  bear  in  mind  that  there  is  whiskey  and  whiskey  ;  and 
inasmuch  as  "  all  is  not  gold  that  glitters,"  so  all  is  not  the  "pure 
Kentucky  wine  "  that  is  labeled  such  on  the  bottle.  The  patient 
will  receive  more  injury  than  benefit  from  the  noxious  compounds 
that  are  offered  for  sale  under  the  guise  of  Kentucky  whiskey  ;  com- 
pounds that  injure  a  well  man  and  are  sure  to  make  short  work  of 
the  sick.  Be  careful,  therefore,  gentlemen,  to  get  Mooman's  J.  H. 
Cutter  Old  Bourbon,  at  the  agency  on  Jackson  street,  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  then  you  may  rest  satisfied  that  your  patients  are  deriving 
all  the  benefit  possible  from  this  stimulant,  and  that  no  poison  is 
being  introduced  into  the  channels  of  their  file,  to  co-operate  with 
disease  already  there  against  your  curative  efforts. 

THE  BUREAU. — A  cosy  resort  for  a  little  liquid  refreshment,  or 
a  fragrant  cigar,  is  the  Bureau,  112  Halleck  street,  Samuel  L.  Pereira, 
proprietor.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  here  is  found  nothing  but  the  best, 
for  Mr.  Pereira  is  himself  a  wine  and  liquor  critic  of  much  taste  and 
experience.  The  Bureau  at  the  noon  hour  is  the  resort  of  merchants, 
lawyers,  accountants,  stock-brokers,  etc.,  who,  from  their  busy  hives 
in  that  neighborhood,  flock  to  partake  of  the  excellent  lunch  which 
its  proprietor  provides  for  his  patrons.  The  chef  who  prepares  those 
palatable  dishes,  is  a  Frenchman,  who  understands  the  great  art  of 
cooking  to  a  nicety.  The  variety  of  each  day's  menu  is  not  the  least 
attractive  feature  of  this*  pleasant  place  of  refreshment.  The  savory 
stews,  tender  roasts,  cool  salads,  and  well  prepared  vegetables  are 
washed  down  with  the  \ery  choicest  brands  the  market  affords. 
Mr.  Pereira  handles  his  liquids  with  care,  and  his  cellar  is  always 
kept  so  plentifully  furnished  that  the  charm  of  age  is  found  in  all 
he  offers  those  who  frequent  this  very  comfortable  oasis  in  the  desert 
of  commercial  affairs  that  surround  it.  It  is  the  perfection  of  neat- 
ness, and  a  vase  of  fresh  roses  is  considered  one  of  the  daily 
adjuncts  of  its  ornaments.  Few  places  have  such  a  steady  current 
of  customers.  The  same  people  frequent  it  year  after  year,  which 
is  in  itself  a  good  proof  of  the  standard  it  has  attained. 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


56  THE    INNKR.    MAN 

JOHN  C.  FITSCHEN.— Mr.  John  C.  Fitschen  entertains  in  his 
saloon  at  305^?  California  street,  a  very  industrious,  and  very  ener- 
getic class  of  the  community.  His  very  cosy  retreat  is  the  accepted 
headquarters  of  the  members  of  the  Produce  Exchange,  as  well  as  a 
number  of  those  gentlemen  who  do  business  in  his  vicinity.  He  is 
most  conscientious  in  keeping  nothing  but  the  highest  grade  of 
wines  and  liquors,  and  is,  withal,  of  so  genial  and  obliging  a  disposi- 
tion that  his  patrons  who  frequent  his  place,  attracted  by  its  good 
repute,  are  also  his  friends.  There  are  few  saloons,  if  any,  east  of 
Montgomery  street,  which  do  such  an  excellent  business,  and  which 
retain  so  large  a  number  ot  clients.  San  Francisco  people  are 
critical  about  their  drinks,  and  will  adhere  to  those  who  furnish  them 
with  the  best,  and  never  offer  them  adulterated  or  inferior  liquors. 
Among  Mr.  Fitschen' s  specialties,  if  indeed  one  can  point  to  anything 
in  particular  when  all  are  of  the  highest  grade,  may  be  mentioned  a 
sherry,  a  dry,  pale  wine,  and  no  better  is  served  at  any  bar  in  the 
city.  Its  flavor  is  delicious,  and  sherry-lovers  will  walk  half  a  dozen 
blocks  to  regale  themselves  with  a  glass  of  this  admirable  wine. 

The  mid-day  lunch  is  a  very  profuse  repast,  and  is  served  in  an 
inner  room  where  tables  are  comfortably  set  out  for  the  enjoyment 
of  the  guests.  The  main  table  is  never  without  an  abundant  supply 
of  choice  and  appetizing  morsels,  delicious  cheeses,  fresh  and  canned 
fish,  caviar,  and  other  delicacies  enjoyed  by  those  who  like  a  morsel 
to  heighten  the  flavor  of  Mr  Fitsc ten's  good  wines  and  liquors. 

"THE  BUCKINGHAM."— "  The  Buckingham,"  141  Mont- 
gomery street,  Mr.  M.  Balfe,  proprietor,  enjoys  the  reputation  of  being 
one  of  the  best-kept  saloons  in  this  wide  city,  where  kindred  places 
of  refreshment  are  so  numerous.  Mr.  Balfe  has  had  a  long  experience 
in  the  liquor  business,  and  has  catered  to  the  most  refined  palates  of 
the  leading  epicures  of  San  Francisco.  Therefore  it  was  but  natural 
that  "The  Buckingham"  should  have  become  a  success  from  the 
day  its  doors  were  first  thrown  open  to  the  public,  to  the  present  day. 
The  interior  fittings  of  this  handsome  resort  are  particularly  tasteful 
and  elegant,  and  the  crystal  of  the  finest,  an  important  part  of  the 
furnishings  of  a  first-class  saloon.  Mr.  Balfe  is  a  direct  importer  of 
old  Bourbon  whisky  per  case,  and  also  receives  his  Hand-made, 
Sour' Mash  Horsey  Rye  direct  from  the  distillery.  These  very  choice 
whiskies  are  highly  appreciated,  and  are  served,  it  is  needless  to  say, 
in  their  original  purity.  The  wines  and  brandies  of  "  The  Bucking- 
ham "  have  been  selected  with  no  less  care  and  discrimination,  and 


THE    INXER.    IvtAX  57 

bear  the  labels  of  the  most  celebrated  manufacturers  on  both  sides 
of  the  water — the  French  clarets  from  the  famous  vineyards  of  the 
old  world,  and  the  native  wines  from- those  growers  whose  products 
have  been  adjudged  the  best. 

At  noon  a  very  substantial  and  well-cooked  lunch  is  served,  so 
complete  and  good  indeed  that  it  would  not  be  amiss  to  call  it  a  very 
satisfying  mid-day  dinner.  The  kitchen  is  on  the  premises,  and  this 
important  part  of  the  business  receives  the  personal  supervision  of 
Mr.  Balfe.  The  bar- keepers  are  expert  in  compounding  those  mixed 
drinks  for  which  California  is  renowned,  and  are  at  all  times  prompt 
ana  courteous  in  receiving  the  wishes  and  meeting  the  requirements 
of  Mr.  Balfe 's  customers. 


Do  you  Drink  ?    Then  Napa  Soda  is  your  Tipple 


CHAPTER  VIII 

OLD   ENGLISH   INNS  —  A  SPECIMEN  OF  HOSTELRY  DESCRIBED  —  ONE  OF  THE 
LAND  -  MARKS   OF  LONDON. 

L/THOUGH  THE  ORIGIN  of  the  Old  Cheshire  Cheese 
(formerly  spelt  "  Ye  Old  Cheshire  Chease"),  is  not  alto- 
gether involved  in  obscurity,  there  is  a  decided  want  of 
complete,  or  semi-complete,  details  as  to  its  very  early 
history.  I  cannot  trace,  for  example — although  I  have 
turned  up  not  a  few  volumes — among  old  records  that 
Shakespeare  was  actually  one  of  the  numerous  fre- 
quenters of  The  Cheese ;  but,  morally,  I  have  no 
doubt  whatever  that  he  was  an  almost  daily  customer.  It  was  one 
of  the  few  well-frequented — then,  in  fact,  fashionable — places  of 
rendezvous  and  entertainment  which  the  great  poet  was  almost 
bound  to  pass— or  enter,  which  is  the  more  likely  idea, — day  by  day, 
as  he  wended  his  way  to,  or  returned  from,  the  Blackfriars'  Theatre, 
in  Play  House  Yard,  Ludgate  Hill,  and  of  which  he  was  for  a  con- 
siderable time  sole  manager.  At  that  time  the  play  began  at  one 
o'clock  of  the  day,  and  terminated  about  five.  The  latter  hour  was 
the  period  of  the  evening  at  which  the  wits  of  the  time  were  wont  to 
congregate  in  the  famous  Fleet  Street  haunts.  But  if  it  be  not  quite 
certain  that  Shakespeare  frequented  the  Old  Cheshire  Cheese,  it  is 
undoubted  that  one  very  famous  man  did,  namely,  Francois  Marie 
Arouet  Voltaire ;  while  often  enough  were  present  Bolingbroke,  Pope, 
and  Congreve.  I  find  that  the  expressions,  "He's  not  the  cheese," 
was  in  former  days  applied  to  one  who  could  not,  from  his  presumed 
want  of  character  or  position,  take  part  in  the  conversation  of,  or 
even  be  permitted  to  mix  among,  those  celebrities  who  were  in  the 
habit  of  frequenting  the  Old  Cheshire  Cheese.  Thus  it  may  be 
fairly  concluded  that  the  "divine  William,"  the  more  gifted  of  the 
many  gifted  men  who  in  his  day  certainly  patronized  the  now  cele- 
brated Tavern,  was  one  of  its  supporters.  Was  it  not  written,  some 
say  even  before  Shakespeare's  time? 

4<  Come  to  the  Cheese,  good  friend,  come  to  the  Cheese; 
There  I'll  arrange  that  thou  shalt  quickly  find 
The  creature  comforts  that  thou  need'st  so  much. 
Thy  body  's  famished — first,  for  want  of  sack ; 
And  next,  for  lack  of  something  good  to  eat. 
Haste  to  The  Cheese,  good  friend,  haste  to  the  Cheese.'* 


THE    INNER    rvlAX  61 

Later  on  that  evening,  when  men  and  matters  had  got  rather 
mellow,  the  then  comforted  friend  thus  addressed  his  benefactor — 
(he  sat  in  the  right-hand  corner  of  the  room  situated  to  the  left  as 
the  visitor  enters  from  Wine  Office  Court) — 

Heaven  bless  '  The  Cheese,'  and  all  its  goodly  fare— 
I  would  to  Jove  I  could  go  daily  there ; 
Then  fill  a  bumper  up,  my  good  friend,  please. 
May  fortune  ever  bless  the  Cheshire  Cheese  ! 

The  foregoing  extracts  are  from  an  Old  Play,  in  MS.,  once  in 
the  possession  of  Sir  Richard  Floyd,  and-  now  in  a  well-known 
library  at  Edinburgh.  The  writer  is  unknown,  but  he  is  believed  to 
have  been  chairman  of  a  coterie  that  met  almost  nightly  at  the 
Cheese,  when  Jonson — rare  Ben  Jonson — was  one  of  the  jolly 
frequenters.  The  reader  may  remember  it  was  in  the  Old  Cheshire 
Cheese  that  the  dispute  arose  about  who. would  most  quickly  make 
the  best  couplet : — 

"I,  Sylvester, 
Kiss'd  your  sister." 

When  the  retort  was — 

"  I,  Ben  Jonson, 
Kiss'd  your  wife." 

"But  that's  not  rhyme,"  said  Sylvester.  "  No,"  said  Jonson  ; 
"but  it's  true."  And  thus  they  passed  the  merry  nights,  "nor 
thought  of  care  or  woe,"  although  there  was  plenty  of  both  very 
much  about  at  the  time.  Just  about  as  much  as  there  is  now.  It  is 
unfortunate,  indeed,  that  men  of  many  letters  are  generally  men  of 
little  money. 

It  was  in  the  Old  Cheshire  Cheese  that  Isaac  Bickerstaff  made 
the  epigram — 

"  When  late  I  attempted  your  pity  to  move, 
What  made  you  so  deaf  to  my  prayers  ? 
Perhaps  it  was  right  to  dissemble  your  love, 
But— why  did  you  kick  me  down  stairs?  " 

It  was  in  the  same  good  old  house  that  the  following  was  transcribed 
from  the  Greek — 

"  Damon,  who  plied  the  Undertaker's  trade, 
With  Doctor  Critias  an  arrangement  made, 
What  grave-clothes  Damon  from  the  dead  should  seize, 
He  to  the  Doctor  sent  for  bandages ; 
While  the  good  Doctor,  here  no  promise-breaker, 
Sent  all  his  patients  to  the  Undertaker." 


Ghiradelli's  Breakfast  Cocoa.     The  Best 


62  -rHE    INNER. 

And  this   gave  tremendous  offense  to  a  decent  Fleet  Street  under, 
taker,  who  swore  he  would  never  enter  the  house  again,  but  who  was 
back  again  the  very  next  day.      It  was  in  the  same  Old  Cheshire 
Cheese  that  the  perhaps  too  pointed  epigram  was  written — 
"  Pravus,  that  aged  debauchee, 

Proclaimed  a  vow  his  sins  to  quit ; 
But  is  he  yet  from  any  free, 

Except  what  now  he  can't  commit?" 

In  fact,  the  Cheese  was  famous  for  epigrammatists.  Ah,  who 
would  not  give  a  year  of  his  life  to  sit  and  listen  to  the  wit  and  humor  of 
the  ancient  frequenters  of  the  Old  Cheshire  Cheese  !  But  the  smart 
things  said  in  the  same  house,  even  in  the  present  time  of  universal 
genius,  are  not  to  be  despised.  Who  would  not  give  a  finger  off  his 
hand  to  get  a  look  at  the  face  of  the  old  glutton  and  scandalmonger 
to  whom,  in  the  Cheese,  the  following  lines  were  solemnly  presented — 

'  *  You  say  your  teeth  are  dropping  out— 

A  serious  cause  of  sorrow, 

Not  likely  to  be  cured,  I  doubt, 

To-day,  or  yet  to-morrow. 

But  good  may  come  of  this  distress, 

While  under  it  you  labor, 
If,  losing  teeth,  you  guzzle  less, 

And  don't  backbite  your  neighbour." 

That  in  latter  days,  although  even  the  period  is  now  termed  "old 
times,"  Samuel  Johnson,  Oliver  Goldsmith,  Thomas  Chatterton — 

"  The  wondrous  boy, 
The  sleepless  soul  that  perished  in  his  pride," 

and  other  great  men  were  in  the  habit  of  frequenting  the  Old  Cheshire 
Cheese,  there  can  be  no  manner  of  doubt.  Full  well  those  great 
men  knew  what  they  were  about  in  choosing  their  place  of  rendezvous, 
for  I  find  a  brochure  entitled  "  Round  London  "  (1725),  that  the 
house  is  described  as  "Ye  Old  Cheshire  Cheese  Tavern,  near  Ye 
Flete  prison,  an  eating-house  for  goodly  fare."  In  the  time  of 
Charles  the  Second,  chop  and  coffee  houses  were  great  political  clubs, 
where  men  discussed  severely  the  conduct  of  his  Majesty.  Harris, 
in  his  life  of  Charles  II.,  volume  2,  page  278,  says  : 

1675.  It  appears  that  the  king  afforded  the  citizens  abundant 
matter  for  animadversion,  and  that  they  indulged  themselves  in  this 
way  so  much  to  his  dissatisfaction,  and  that  of  his  cabal  ministry, 
that  a  proclamation  was  issued,  December  22,  for  shutting  up  and 
suppressing  all  coffee  houses. 


THE   INIXER  N1AN  63 

"  '  Because  in  such  houses,  and  by  occasion  of  the  meeting  of 
disaffected  persons  in  them,  divers  false,  malicious,  and  scandalous 
reports  were  devised  and  spread  abroad,  to  the  defamation  of  his 
Majesty's  government,  and  to  the  disturbance  of  the, quiet  and  peace 
of  the  realm.'  " 

The  increase  in  the  number  of  taverns  and  wine  vaults  in  the 
year  1552,  engaged  the  attention  of  Parliament  ;  and  it  was  enacted 
that  the  number  of  retailers  of  wine  in  London  should  not  exceed 
forty  ;  nor  those  of  Westminster  exceed  three  (Stat.  7,  Edw.  VI.  c.  5). 
As  remarked  elsewhere,  Wine  Office  Court,  where  the  Cheshire 
Cheese  is  situated,  took  its  name  from  the  fact  that  wine  licenses 
were  granted  in  a  building  close  by. 

PERUVIAN  BITTERS.  — From  the  days  of  the  Incas,  when 
Pizarro  conquered  that  gallant  people  to  the  present,  Peru  has  been 
subjected  to  much  turbulence.  In  its  war  with  Chili,  the  lower 
orders  broke  out  and  made  things  mighty  disagreeable  in  that  land  of 
poetry  and  romance.  And  none  of  its  stories  are  more  attractive 
than  that  tale  of  the  old  days,  when  in  1630  Count  Cinchon  was  the 
vice-regal  representative  in  Peru  of  the  Spanish  Monarch  Philip  IV. 
Count  Cinchon  was  the  descendant  of  one  of  the  noblest,  proudest, 
richest  and  most  powerful  families  in  Spain,  The  young  Count 
sought  for  and  obtained  this  position,  not  because  of  the  dignity,  nor 
yet  of  the  emoluments  which  it  brought  with  it,  but  because  of  cer- 
tain political  complications  which  he  desired  to  avoid  by  a  residence 
abroad.  He  was  accompanied  by  his  wife,  the  beautiful  and  accom- 
plished Countess  Cinchon.  Among  all  the  daughters  of  sunny  Spain 
she  was  the  loveliest,  and  the  Count  worshipped  her,  and  the  aim  of 
his  life  was  to  make  her  happy.  But  to  the  consternation  of  the 
Count,  on  his  way  via  Panama  from  Madrid  to  the  seat  of  the  Peru- 
vian government  at  Lima,  the  lady  had  the  misfortune  to  contract 
an  intermittent  fever.  The  Count  was  distracted.  All  the  available 
medical  skill  of  the  country  was  employed,  but  in  vain.  Day  after 
day  the  beautiful  Countess  grew  weaker,  and  her  death  appeared 
indeed  inevitable.  At  this  critical  period  the  monks  of  the  Mission 
were  called  in,  for  their  knowledge  of  the  herbs  of  the  country  was 
well  known,  and  by  the  dying  bed  of  ihe  Countess  one  of  the  oldest 
and  wisest  advised  the  use  of  Peruvian  bark,  or,  as  it  was  then  called 
in  the  language  of  the  country,  Quinquinia,  the  medicinal  virtues  of 
which  they  had  learned  from  the  Indians.  Its  effect  upon  the 
Countess  was  immediate.  She  rallied  from  the  deadly  languor  which 

A  Napa  Soda  Lemonade  is  a  Luxury 


64  THE    INNER.   N1AN 

had  so  long  possessed  her,  her  appetite  and  her  strength  were 
restored,  and  in  a  few  weeks  she  became  completely  convalescent. 
The  Count  could  not  do  too  much  for  the  good  monks  whose  knowl- 
edge and  wisdom  had  so  happily  preserved  the  life  of  his  beautiful 
wife.  He  made  the  most  munificent  presents  to  the  monastery,  and 
was  enthusiastic  in  his  praises  of  the  wonderful  remedy  which  had 
made  so  signal  a  conquest  of  that  deadly  malaria.  The  Count 
Cinchon  and  his  wife  returned  to  Spain  in  1632,  and  introduced  the 
remedy  there  where  it  passed  under  various  names  until  a  celebrated 
scientist  designated  it  Cinchona,  in  honor  of  the  lady  who  had 
brought  it  to  the  knowledge  of  the  civilized  world.  Cinchona 
now  proves  the  basis  upon  which  Peruvian  Bitters  are  manufactured, 
and  its  remedial  qualities  have  ever  since  been  held  in  the  highest 
esteem.  The  late  Harry  Meiggs  was  one  of  the  most  firm  believers 
in  the  efficacy  of  Cinchona,  which  undoubtedly  was  known  to  the 
inhabitants  of  Peru  long  before  the  Spanish  conquest,  to  those  who 
wish  to  preserve  the  inner  man  in  all  i'ts  integrity  it  is  simply  invalu- 
able. It  stimulates  the  languid  appetite,  and  expels  from  the  blood 
every  trace  of  malaria.  It  is  a  most  agreeable  beverage,  and  only 
the  best  and  purest  materials  are  used  in  its  manufacture.  Wil- 
merding  &  Co.,  214  and  216  Front  street,  are  the  proprietors  of 
Peruvian  Bitters,  and  the  reputation  of  this  old  firm  is  the  best  guar- 
antee of  the  purity  of  this  popular  and  healthful  concoction. 

"GARCIA'S." — A  pioneer  among  pioneers  in  the  wine  and 
liquor  business  ;s  Francisco  Garcia,  who  for  years  conducted  in  the 
northern  portion  of  Montgomery  Street  one  of  the  leading  saloons 
and  restaurants  in  the  city.  Everybody  then  knew  "Frank's"  as  it 
was  familiarly  called.  It  was  considered  the  proper  courtesy  to 
extend  to  a  stranger  to  conduct  him  to  "Frank's,"  and  have  Mr. 
Garcia  build  for  him  one  of  t&ose  great  imperial  punches  which 
won  him  his  spurs,  so  to  speak,  in  this  line.  It  was  the  resort  of 
the  epicures,  because  some  of  the  very  rarest  and  best  liquors  and 
wines  had  their  abiding  place  in  Frank's  cellar.  The  lunch  table 
was  profusely  set  out  with  all  the  dainties  of  the  season,  and  the 
cooking  was  beyond  reproach. 

But  as  time  rolled  on,  and  lawyers,  doctors  and  business  men 
drifted  farther  up  town,  Mr.  Garcia  wisely  concluded  to  move  with 
the  current,  and  established  himself  at  133  Montgomery  Street, 
opposite  the  Occidental  Hotel.  It  was  not  long  before  the  old 
habitues  again  flocked  around  him,  and  rejoiced  in  the  accessibility 


INNER    NIAN  6-3 

of  the  new  quarters.  They  confidently  believed  that  the  same 
menages  and  the  same  system  which  had  won  Garcia  his  reputation 
in  the  old  establishment  would  obtain  in  the  new,  and  they  were  not 
disappointed. 

Mr.  Garcia  always  had  a  nice  taste  for  appetizing  odds  and  ends — 
knick-knacks  in  bottles  and  cans,  such  as  delicious  sardines,  pates, 
and  the  like,  and  the  highly  appreciative  of  those  delicacies  were 
pleased  to  find  that  the  supply  was  undiminished  and  always  equal 
to  the  demand.  Fine  old  brandies  and  whiskies  continue  to  be 
served  as  in  the  original  place,  and  the  choicest  wines  of  France 
and  California  find  a  place  on  the  shelves.  The  high  art  of  mixing 
palatable  drinks  are  not  permitted  to  languish.  In  fact,  everything 
was  kept  up  to  the  original  standard,  and  this  is  sufficient  encomium 
for  those  who  well  knew  what  that  standard  was. 

Mr.  Garcia's  lunch  counter  is  furnished  daily  with  a  variety  of 
well  cooked  and  appetizing  dishes,  and  his  champagne  prepared 
hams  are  beyond  praise.  The  service  is  excellent,  and  everything 
about  Garcia's  places  it  in  the  front  rank  of  San  Francisco  saloons. 
It  has  never  lost  that  old  California  flavor  which  made  it  the  resort 
of  some  of  the  most  brilliant  men  in  the  State.  The  main  object 
ever  kept  in  view  was  to  furnish  the  very  choicest,  the  oldest  and 
finest  liquors  and  wines  that  the  cellars  of  the  importers  could  furnish. 
Indeed  many  of  the  rare  things  in  ihis  line  have  been  imported  by 
Mr.  Garcia  himself  from  Europe. 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


CHAPTER  IX. 

THE  WINES  USED  BY  THE  EGYPTIANS — THE  TEMPERANCE   ENFORCED  ON  THB 
WOMEN  — WINEB  USED  FOR  MEDICINAL  PURPOSES 


HE  EGYPTIANS  had  several  different  kinds  of 
wine,  some  of  which  have  been  commended  by 
ancient  authors  for  their  excellent  qualities.  That  of 
Mareotis  was  the  most  esteemed  and  in  the  greatest 
quantity.  Its  superiority  over  other  Egyptian  wines 
may  be  readily  accounted  for,  when  we  consider  the 
nature  of  the  soil  in  that  district ;  being  principally 
composed  of  gravel,  which,  lying  beyond  the  reach 
of  the  alluvial  deposit,  was  free  from  the  rich  and 
tenacious  mud  usually  met  with  in  the  valley  of  the 
Nile,  so- little  suited  for  grapes  of  delicate  quality; 
and  from  the  extensive  remains  of  vineyards  still  found  on  the  west- 
ern borders  of  the  Arsinoite  name  of  Fyootn,  we  may  conclude  that 
eminent  Egyptians  were  fully  aware  of  the  advantages  of  lands, 
situated  beyond  the  limits  of  the  inundation,  for  planting  the  vine. 
According  to  Athenseus,  "  the  Maroetic  grape  was  remarkable  for  its 
sweetness,"  and  the  wine  is  thus  described  by  him  :  "Its  color  is 
white,  its  quality  excellent,  and  it  is  sweet  and  light  with  a  fragrant 
bouquet ;  it  is  by  no  means  astringent,  nor  does  it  affect  the  head." 
But  it  was  not  for  its  flavor  alone  this  wine  was  esteemed.  Strabo 
ascribes  to  it  the  additional  merit  of  keeping  to  a  great  age.  "Still, 
however,"  says  Athenaeus,  "it  is  inferior  to  the  Teniotic,  a  wine 
which  receives  its  name  from  a  place  called  Tenia,  where  it  is  pro- 
duced. Its  color  is  pale  and  weak,  but  there  is  such  a  degree  of 
richness  in  it,  that,  when  mixed  with  water,  it  seems  gradually  to  be 
diluted,  much  in  the  same  way  as  Attic  honey  when  a  liquid  i$ 
poured  into  it ;  and  besides  the  agreeable  flavor  of  the  wine,  its  fra- 
grance is  so  delightful  as  to  render  it  perfectly  aromatic,  and  it  has 
the  property  of  being  slightly  astringent.  There  are  many  other 
vineyards  in  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  whose  wines  are  in  great  repute, 
and  these  differ  both  in  color  and  taste.  But  that  which  it  produced 
about  Anthylla  is  preferred  to  all  the  rest.  "  Some  of  the  wine  made 

68 


THE   IiXXKR.  IVI^IX  69 

in  Thebaid  was  particularly  light,  especially  about  Coptos  and  "so 
wholesome,"  says  the  same  author,  "  that  invalids  may  take  it  with- 
out inconvenience,  even  during  a  fever."  The  Sebennytic  was  like- 
wise one  of  the  choice  Egyptian  wines  ;  and,  as  Pliny  says,  was  made 
of  three  different  grapes  ;  one  of  which  was  a  sort  of  Thasian.  The 
Thasian  grape  he  afterwards  describes  as  excelling  all  others  in 
Egypt  for  sweetness,  and  remarkable  for  its  medicinal  properties- 
The  Mendisian  is  also  mentioned  by  Oluneus,  with  rather  a  sweet 
flavor:  and  another  singular  wine,  called  by  Pliny  ecbolada,  was  also 
the  produce  of  Egypt;  but  from  its  peculiar  powers,  we  may  suppose 
that  men  alone  drank  it,  or  at  least  that  it  was  forbidden  to  newly 
married  brides.  And,  considering  how  prevalent  the  custom  was 
among  the  ancients  of  altering  the  qualities  of  wines,  by  drugs  and 
divers  processes,  we  may  readily  conceive  the  possibilities  of  the 
effects  ascribed  to  them;  and  thus  it  happened  that  the  opposite 
properties  were  frequently  attributed  to  the  same  kind.  Wines  were 
much  used  by  them  for  medicinal  purposes,  and  many  were  held  in 
such  repute,  as  to  be  considered  specifics  in  certain  complaints  ;  but 
the  medicinal  men  of  the  day  were  prudent  in  their  mode  of  prescrib- 
ing them  ;  and  as  imagination  has  on  many  occasions  effected  the 
cure,  and  given  celebrity  to  a  medicine,  those  least  known  were 
wisely  preferred,  and  each  extolled  the  natures  of  some  foreign  wine. 
In  the  earliest  time  Egypt  was  renowned  for  drugs,  and  foreigners 
had  recourse  to  that  country  for  wines  as  well  as  herbs.  Yet, 
Appolodorus  the  physician,  in  a  treatise  on  wines,  addressed  to 
Ptolemy,  king  of  Egypt,  recommended  those  of  Pontus,  more  bene- 
ficial then  any  of  his  own  country,  and  particularly  praised  the 
Peparethian,  produced  in  an  island  of  the  JSgean  Sea.  But  he  was 
disposed  to  think  it  less  valuable  as  a  medicine,  when  its  good  quali- 
ties could  not  be  discovered  in  six  years.  The  wines  of  Alexandria 
and  Coptas  are  also  cited  among  the  best  of  Egyptian  growth,  and 
the  latter  was  so  light  as  not  to  effect  even  those  in  delicate  health. 
In  offerings  to  the  Egyptian  deities  wine  frequently  occurs,  and  sev- 
eral different  kinds  are  noted  in  the  Sacred  Scriptures,  but  it  is  prob- 
able that  many  of  the  Egyptian  wines  are  not  introduced  in  those 
subjects,  and  that,  as  with  the  Romans,  and  other  people,  all  were 
not  admitted  at  their  sacrifices.  According  to  Herodotus,  their  sacri- 
fices commenced  with  a  libation  of  wine,  and  some  was  sprinkled  on 
the  ground  where  the  victim  lay  ;  yet  at  Heliopolis,  if  Plutarch  may 
be  credited,  it  was  forbidden  to  take  it  into  the  temple,  and  the  gods 
worshipped  in  that  city  were  required  to  abstain  from  its  use. 


Napa  Soda  Water  Cures  Dyspepsia 


70  THE    INNER.    N1AN 

"Those  of  other  deities,"  adds  the  same  author,  "  were  less  scrupu- 
lous," but  still  they  used  wine  very  sparingly,  and  the  quantity 
allowed  them  for  their  daily  consumption,  was  regulated  by  law;  nor 
could  they  indulge  in  it  at  all  times,  and  the  use  of  it  was  strictly 
prohibited  during  their  more  solemn  purifications,  and  in  times  of 
abstinence.  The  number  of  wines  mentioned  in  the  list  of  offerings 
presented  to  the  deities  in  the  tombs  or  temples,  varied  in  different 
places.  Each  appears  with  its  peculiar  name  attached  to  it,  but 
they  seldom  exceed  three  or  four  kinds,  and  among  them  is  found  at 
Thebes  that  of  the  "northern  country,"  which  was  perhaps  from 
Mareotis,  Anthylla,  or  Sebernytus.  Private  individuals  were  under 
no  particular  restrictions  in  regard  to  its  use,  and  it  was  not  forbid- 
den to  women.  In  this  they  differed  widely  from  the  Romans,  for  at 
early  times  no  female  enjoyed  the  privilege,  and  it  was  unlawful  for 
women,  or,  indeed,  for  young  men  below  the  age  of  thirty,  to  drink 
wine,  except  as  sacrifices.  Kven  at  a  later  time  Romans  considered 
it  disgraceful  for  women  to  drink  wine,  and  they  sometimes  saluted 
a  female  relative,  whom  they  suspected,  in  order  to  discover  if  she 
had  secretly  indulged  in  its  use.  It  was  afterwards  allowed  them  on 
the  plea  of  health,  and  no  better  method  could  have  been  devised  for 
removing  the  restriction.  That  Egyptian  women  were  not  forbidden 
the  use  of  wine,  nor  the  enjoyment  of  other  luxuries,  is  evident  from 
the  frescoes  that  represent  their  feasts,  and  the  painters,  in  illustrat- 
ing this  fact,  have  sometimes  sacrificed  their  gallantry  to  a  love  of 
caricature.  Some  call  the  servants  to  support  them  as  they  sit. 
Others  with  difficuty  prevent  themselves  from  falling  on  those  behind 
them  ;  a  basin  is  brought  too  late  by  a  reluctant  servant,  and  the 
faded  flower,  which  is  ready  to  drop  from  their  heated  hands,  is 
intended  to  be  characteristic  of  their  own  sensations. 

LUKE  G.  SRBSOVICH  &  CO.— The  house  of  L.  G.  Sresovich 
&  Co.,  505-507  Sansome  street,  is  identical  with  luscious  fiuits  from 
far-off  seas,  and  breathing  the  perfume  of  the  tropics.  There  is 
always  a  handsome  and  appetizing  display  in  Mr.  Sresovich's  store, 
and  his  assistants  are  busy  from  dawn  to  dark,  filling  the  numerous 
orders  which  come  from  those  who  appreciate  the  beginning  of  a 
breakfast  or  close  to  a  dinner — fresh,  wholesome  fruit.  This  house 
imports  its  bananas  from  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  and  receives  large 
consignments  by  every  steamer,  thus  enabling  them  to  keep  a  large 
stock  always  on  hand.  The  oranges  come  from  Tahiti,  Sonora  and 
California,  and  are  the  very  choicest  qualities  of  this  general  favorite. 


THE    INNER.    NIAN  71 

But  this  is  only  a  portion  of  the  business  of  this  firm.  Mr.  Sresovich 
also  is  a  large  manufacturer  of  desiccated  cocoanut,  and  the  factory 
for  this  as  well  as  the  depot  for  green  fruits  is  at  207-9-11  Steuart 
street.  The  firm  was  awarded  a  silver  medal  by  the  Mechanics' 
Institute  for  the  display  of  fruits,  and  has  received  diplomas  at  the 
State  fairs  of  California  and  Oregon.  Mr.  Luke  Sresovich  is  himself 
a  business  man  of  great  energy  and  enterprise,  and  like  all  his 
countrymen  has  a  keen  judgment  in  the  quality  and  selection  of 
fruits.  The  telephone  number  is  629. 

"THE  ARGONAUT."— The  Argonaut,  since  its  birth,  has 
been  recognized  as  the  leading  society  and  literary  weekly  publication 
of  California.  It  has  correspondents  in  the  principal  cities  of  the 
East  and  Europe,  who  contribute  breezy,  interesting  letters,  princi- 
pally on  social  topics.  Mr.  F.  M.  Pixley,  its  founder,  has  long  been 
recognized  as  one  of  the  most  forcible  and  original  writers  in  the 
State,  and  Mr.  Jerome  Harte,  under  whose  immediate  supervision 
the  literary  department  is,  in  addition  to  his  excellent  judgment  in 
literary  matters,  is  a  gentleman  of  scholarly  attainments,  and  wields 
a  cunning  pen. 

Some  of  the  most  celebrated  literators  of  the  world  have  from 
time  to  time  appeared  in  the  Argonaut's  columns.  This  Journal  has 
moreover  done  much  to  encourage  and  foster  the  literary  taste  of 
California.  It  has  offered  generous  inducements  to  young  writers 
to  join  the  ranks  of  its  contributors,  and  while  other  journals  have 
economized  in  the  matter  of  compensation,  the  Argonaut  has  never 
deviated  from  the  rates  it  established  in  the  flush  times.  Its  selections 
are  among  the  most  attractive  features  of  this  journal.  There  are 
hundreds  of  interesting  scrap  books  in  this  city  made  up  from  the 
prose  and  verse  of  the  Argonaut.  M.  A.  P.  Stanton  directs  the  bus- 
iness end  of  the  concern,  and  has  assisted  largely  in  obtaining  for  it 
the  wide  circulation  which  it  now  enjoys.  The  office  is  213  Grant 
avenue. 

C.  CARPY  &  CO.— The  city  office  of  C.  Carpy  &  Co.,  whole- 
sale wine  and  liquor  merchants  is  515-517  Sacramento  street,  and 
the  wine  vaults  are  situated  at  Napa  City,  California.  Mr.  Carpy  is 
a  Frenchman,  and  like  the  great  majority  of  his  countrymen,  has  a 
fine  taste  in  the  selection  of  wines.  He  is  also  a  bon  vivant  of  the 
premiere  quality,  and  knows  how  to  take  good  care  of  the  Inner  Man. 


Indigestion  Dies  where  Napa  Soda  Lives 


72  THE    INNKR. 

Among  the  various  lines  of  mercantile  life,  the  wine  merchant  is  the 
one  who  is  usually  most  jealous  and  careful  of  his  reputation.  In 
the  first  place  the  competition  is  so  keen  that  to  get  on  top  is  no  easy 
undertaking.  Again  when  a  reputation  for  a  really  fine  article  is 
once  established,  and  the  consumer  has  grown  so  accustomed  to  its 
use  that  it  has  become  a  second  nature  to  him,  he  grows  more  critical. 
The  old  saying  that "  familiarity  breeds  contempt "  is  marvelously  well 
exemplified  in  the  wine  trade.  A  man's  palate  may  be  a  trifle  out 
of  order,  his  liver  may  be  impaired,  or  his  digestion  not  up  to  the 
mark.  In  those  dark  hours  his  favorite  wine  has  not  the  same  snap, 
and  he  blames  the  wine  merchant.  All  this  is  preliminary  to  the  fact 
that  Mr.  Carpy  when  he  once  obtains  a  thoroughly  appreciative 
consumer  never  loses  him  by  any  deterioration  in  the  quality  of  the 
wines  he  furnishes.  And  this  is  accomplished  all  the  easier  by 
reason  of  his  trained  judgment  in  those  affairs. 

The  great  La  Loma  claret  is  a  wine  upon  which  Mr.  Carpy  prides 
himself  with  justice.  This  is  indeed  a  nectar  fit  for  the  gods,  breath- 
ing sweet  perfumes,  and  is  highly  esteemed  by  the  wine  connoisseurs 
of  the  Pacific  Coast.  To  taste  La  Loma  once  is  to  become  from  that 
moment  an  enthusiast  in  its  praise. 

Mr.  Carpy 's  business  is  comprehensive.  He  handles  all  those 
wines  made  from  the  grapes  which  have  proved  themselves  the  best 
adapted  to  the  soil  and  climate  of  California,  in  addition  of  course  to 
the  imported  wines  of  the  old  country.  The  spacious  wine  vaults  at 
Napa  contain  many  rare  old  wines  laid  down  years  ago,  for  Mr. 
Carpy  is  a  pioneer  wine  merchant  of  this  State.  He  has  watched 
the  wine  industry  of  this  county  from  its  infancy — from  those,  days 
when  a  few  thousand  gallons  of  Zinfandel  was  considered  a  big  thing, 
to  the  present  when  we  number  our  output  by  the  million  gallons, 
and  when  the  market  for  California  wines  is  ever  broadening.  It  is 
sincerely  to  be  hoped  that  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  the  path- 
way of  the  California  wine  producer  will  be  made  smoother  than  it 
at  present  is. 

MERCANTILE  LUNCH.— Situated  at  213-215  Pine  street 
between  Sansome  and  Battery  streets,  the  Mercantile  LuncL  is  in 
the  very  heart  of  the  mercantile  community.  It  is,  in  its  line,  the 
most  unique  restaurant  in  this  city.  Its  founder  is  Mr.  Charlee 
Claffey,  whose  experience  in  the  catering  and  management  of  this 
most  popular  restaurant  has  been  the  secret  of  its  continued  success. 


THE    INNER    NIAN  73 

The  Mercantile  Lunch  was  founded  in  1874,  and  from  that  period  to 
the  present  has  been  under  the  management  of  Edward  Ohlen,  a 
gentleman  who  has  a  keen  sense  of  the  good  things  of  life,  and  who 
is  always  first  in  the  market  when  there  is  anything  unusual  to  be 
expected  in  the  line  of  fur  and  feather. 

But  not  to  the  wants  of  the  Inner  Man  alone  does  this  pleasant 
place  minister.  In  the  outer  room,  where  the  bar  and  lunch 
counters  are,  hang  some  very  excellent  pictures,  mostly  by  Tojetti. 
His  interpretation  of  Tennyson's  sadly  beautiful  incident  from  Enid 
when 

"  The  Dead,  steered  by  the  Dumb, 
Went  upward  with  the  flood," 

is  a  noble  work  of  art.  "Franciscodi  Rimini,"  ''Venus  and  Cupid," 
"Morning  and  Evening"  are  good  examples  of  this  artist's  best 
style.  A  marine  by  Denny,  the  "Constitution  and  Guerriere"  and 
the  "Entrance  to  Havre"  by  a  French  artist,  give  the  interior  a  very 
interesting  and  attractive  appearance. 

The  inner  room  is  spacious,  and  is  daily  thronged  with  those 
who  appreciate  an  incomparable  cuisine,  good  attendance  and  neat- 
ness beyond  all  criticism.  Much  of  the  character  of  the  English 
eating  house  pervades  the  Mercantile  Lunch.  The  chops  and  steaks 
are  cut  in  that  thick,  generous  fashion  which  one  obtains  in  the  best 
English  restaurants. 

A  favorite  invitation  among  those  who  are  inclined  to  be  hospi- 
table, is  "come  to  the  Mercantile  Lunch  and  have  a  steak."  And 
they  certainly  are  steaks  and  chops  which  go  far  to  refute  the  state- 
ments of  those  travelers  who  like  to  tell  tales  of  the  wonderful  beef 
and  mutton  they  get  on  the  other  side  of  the  pond,  and  that  we  have 
nothing  to  compare  with  them  here.  Those  slanderers  of  the  good 
fare  of  California  should  go  to  the  Mercantile  Lunch,  and  then  if 
their  conscience  would  permit  them,  repeat  the  libel.  In  the  game 
season  all  that  is  most  desirable  finds  its  way  into  the  kitchen,  and 
"Ned"  takes  good  care  that  it  is  properly  handled  by  the  cooks. 

CAMPI'S  ITALIAN  RESTAURANT.— A  restaurant  with  a 
history  is  Campi 's  Italian  restaurant,  531-533  Clay  street.  Signor 
Campi,  its  founder,  was  a  worthy  Italian,  and  after  his  death  the 
control  passed  through  the  hands  of  several  of  his  countrymen,  until 
it  was  purchased  by  Mr.  I.  Cueiiin,  the  present  proprietor  of  the 
Campi  Restaurant. 


Ladies  Drink  Napa   Soda  for  Complexion 


74  THE    INNER   MAN 

There  is  no  more  cosmopolitan  resort  in  San  Francisco — that 
most  cosmopolitan  of  cities — than  "Campi's."  Here  at  the  noon 
hour  and  in  the  evening  at  the  dinner  hour,  one  hears  the  language 
of  France,  Italy,  Spain  and  Anglo-Saxon,  as  the  natives  of  those 
countries  are  served  according  to  their  pleasure.  There  are  dinners 
and  breakfasts  with  a  good  wine,  consisting  of  a  menu  so  various 
and  excellent  that  they  are  the  wonder  of  strangers. 

Meals  are  served  in  the  Italian  and  French  styles,  and  it  is 
nothing  unusual  to  see  on  a  Sunday  evening  over  a  score  of  families 
seated,  after  a  day's  outing,  to  enjoy  the  luxuries  which  "Campi's" 
affords.  Is  is  essentially  a  family  restaurant,  and  moreover  one  of 
those  places  which  numbers  in  its  list  of  regular  customers  those 
who  for  twenty  years  have  been  its  patrons.  The  waiters  are  prompt, 
intelligent  and  obliging,  and  the  list  of  good  things  to  eat  covers  a 
wide  field.  "Campi's"  is  also  a  favorite  rendevouz  for  clubs  and 
societies  on  anniversary  nights,  for  among  its  merits  the  moderation 
of  its  charges  must  be  numbered.  The  upstairs  apartment  is  much 
used  by  ladies  and  children,  though  the  class  of  people  who  patronize 
it,  may  use  any  portion  of  the  restaurant  desirable. 


CHAPTER  X 

THE  ART  OF  DINNER  SERVICE  AND  CARVING — SOME  HINTS  ABOUT  THK 
PLACING  OF  FISH 

GENTLEMAN  should  not  only  know  some- 
thing about  sauces,  but  also  the  proper  way  to 
carve  different  kinds  of  meats,  game  and  poultry. 
Nowadays  too  many  hosts  are  obliged,  when  they 
entertain,  to  appeal  to  some  of  their  guests  for 
assistance,  something  that  may  be  annoying  to 
the  former,  and  certainly  is  troublesome  to  the  latter.  The  first 
thing  to  be  seen  to  by  those  who  wish  to  carve  well,  is  that  they 
have  the  right  sizes  and  kinds  of  forks  and  carving  knives,  and 
there  must  be  a  set  for  each  kind  of  meat,  fish,  fowl  and  game. 
The  knives  should  be  kept  well  sharpened,  an  easy  thing  if  they 
are  passed  every  day  over  a  whetstone,  and  the  forks  should  be  of 
steel,  strong  and  well  pointed.  In  order  to  carve  well,  the  French 
think  it  necessary  to  stand  up,  and  as  the  pieces  are  cut  off  they  are 
placed  collectively  in  a  dish  to  be  handed  round  the  table,  so  that 
each  person  may  select  what  piece  he  or  she  prefers.  Any  one  can 
serve  that,  of  course,  but  how  does  it  look  when  pulled  to  pieces  ? 
To  serve  a  trout,  mark  with  a  fish  knife,  starting  at  the  head,  and 
extending  within  two  inches  of  the  tail,  and  then  draw  other  lines 
starting  at  this  one  and  running  to  the  sides  of  the  fish.  A  salmon 
is  served  in  the  same  way  as  a  trout,  while  blue  fish  should  be 
divided  into  two  parts  longitudinally;  then  remove  the  large  bone  and 
cut  the  fish  in  pieces  in  such  a  way  as  to  give  each  person  a  portion 
of  back  and  belly.  The  head  of  a  pike  should  be  offered  to  a  lady. 
Barbels  are  served  in  the  same  way  as  trout,  and  chub  the  same  as 
pike.  To  serve  turbot,  the  prince  of  the  sea,  mark  a  cross  in  the 
belly  penetrating  to  the  bone,  then  draw  transversal  lines  from  this 
line  to  the  dorsal  fin,  dividing  each  slice  so  made  into  two  pieces, 
and  send  the  dish  round  so  that  the  guests  may  help  themselves. 
Next  serve  out  the  belly  in  the  same  way,  and  then  remove  the 
large  bone  and  serve  the  other  half  of  the  fish.  Turbot  should  be 
accompanied  with  a  white  sauce  made  of  butter,  or  with  an  oil 
dressing,  and  the  tongue,  as  the  choicest  morsel,  should  be  given  to 

75 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


76  THE;  INNKR    MAN 

the  principal  guest.  Nearly  every  man  you  meet  carves  a  leg  of 
mutton  badly,  and  yet  its  tenderness  almost  always  depends  on  how 
the  slices  are  cut  off.  There  are  two  ways  of  doing  this.  When 
you  are  sure  the  leg  is  from  a  sheep  of  good  breed,  and  that  it  is 
really  tender,  take  hold  of  it  by  the  knuckle,  with  the  left  hand, 
and  then  cut  the  slices  perpendicularly  from  the  joint  to  the  bone  of 
the  filet;  then  remove  the  muscle  of  the  knuckle,  next  turn  the  leg 
over  and  slice  off  the  back  part.  For  this  essentially  primative  way  of 
carving,  gourmets  substitute  carving  by  survilinear  slices  which 
render  the  pieces  more  succulent.  But  neither  of  these  ways  of 
carving  a  leg  of  mutton  should  be  resorted  to,  except  when  the  meat 
is  of  the  best  quality  and  of  great  tenderness.  In  other  cases  the 
best  way  to  proceed  is  to  cut  horizontally  instead  of  perpendicularly 
— that  is,  cut  gffthe  slices  parallel  with  the  bone;  the  slices  should 
be  cut  very  thin,  and  when  a  sufficient  number  have  been  sliced  off 
you  should  plunge  the  fork  into  what  remains  of  the  leg,  and  let  the 
gravy  run  over  them.  A  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  and  a  little 
pepper  and  salt  added  will  improve  the  flavor  amazingly.  Apropos, 
here  is  an  anecdote  about  Brillat  Savarin,  which  may  be  profitably 
repeated.  During  a  journey  he  stopped  one  day  at  a  country  inn, 
and  asked  for  supper.  He  was  told  there  was  nothing  for  him,  and 
when  he  looked  in  surprise  at  an  enormous  leg  of  mutton,  which 
was  slowly  roasting  before  a  bright  fire,  and  at  several  dishes  that 
were  cooking  on  the  range,  the  innkeeper  said  that  they  were 
already  bespoken  by  some  travelling  merchants.  "Go  and  ask 
them,  said  Brillat  Savarin,  if  they  cannot  make  room  .for  one  more 
at  their  table,  and  say  that  I  will  pay  my  scot,  not  only  with  money, 
but  in  merry  stories."  The  innkeeper  shook  his  head  doubtfully, 
and  went  out  of  the  room.  Presently  he  returned  with  a  positive 
refusal.  The  merchants  wished  to  discuss  some  business  matter, 
and  the  presence  of  a  stranger  would  prevent  them  doing  so.  The 
innkeeper  kindly  offered  him  some  beans,  which  was  the  only  thing 
he  could  venture  to  take  from  the  dishes  ordered  by  his  other 
guests.  "  All  right,"  said  Brillat  Savarin,  "but  permit  me  to  place 
my  beans  in  the  basting  so  that  if  I  am  to  have  no  roast,  I  may  at 
least  have  a  little  of  its  flavor.  The  host  consented,  and  turned  out 
a  third  of  the  saucepan  of  beans  into  the  receptacle  below  the  leg  of 
mutton,  into  which  the  fat  was  dripping  as  it  turned.  Brillat 
Savarin  installed  himself  at  the  chimney  corner,  and  whenever  the 
cook's  back  was  turned  he  plunged  a  larding  fork  into  the  generous 
sides  of  the  leg  of  mutton.  A  rich  and  abundant  gravy  flowed  from 


IXKKR.   IVLAX  77 


it,  and  as  no  part  of  it  escaped  the  prodding,  all  its  best  qualities 
were  transferred  to  his  dish  of  beans,  while  the  churlish  merchants 
had  only  the  tough  and  juiceless  remains  of  what  had  been  a  superb 
joint.  Americans  have  mucn  to  learn  from  the  French  about 
cooking  game.  The  wild  duck  is  not  always  a  tender  bird,  and  it 
can  be  made  tolerably  tough  in  the  kitchen.  A  canvas-back  duck, 
should  never  be  cooked  less  than  fifteen  nor  more  than  eighteen 
minutes,  and  then  in  a  very  hot  oven.  It  should  be  carved  in 
slices,  and  in  cutting  the  wings  and  thighs  are  sacrificed.  Most 
wild  ducks  should  be  served  so  under  done  that  the  blood  will  run 
when  they  are  sliced  up;  the  juice  of  two  lemons  may  be  squeezed 
into  their  blood;  also  add  a  few  drops  of  oil,  a  little  salt  and 
some  pepper,  after  which  let  the  birds  soak  a  few  minutes  in  the 
gravy  thus  prepared,  before  handing  them  round.  In  the  case  of 
teal  duck  there  is  no  need  of  cutting  off  the  legs  and  wings.  A  wood 
cock  should  not  ^e  drawn,  what  drops  from  it  when  cooking  should 
be  caught  on  a  toasted  piece  of  bread,  on  which  the  bird  is  to  be 
served,  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt  and  lemon  juice.  In  carving, 
first  remove  the  legs  and  wings,  then  divide  the  body  lengthwise. 
The  wing  is  the  most  delicate  morsel,  but  the  thighs  have  more 
flavor.  Do  not  throw  away  the  carcass  or  bones  unless  you  wish  to 
commit  high  culinary  treason.  Mashed  in  a  mortar  they  will  form 
a  puree,  which  will  give  an  excellent  flavor  to  a  black  gravy  which 
you  ought  to  serve  with  the  bird.  French  gourmets  inclose  the 
head  of  this  bird  in  a  coating  of  tallow,  broil  it  over  a  candle  flame, 
and  then  eat  it.  It  is  only  a  mouthful,  but  it  is  a  divine  morsel. 
Snipe  should  be  cut  in  two  longitudinally.  Partridge  plays  an 
important  role  among  game  birds;  there  are  two  kinds,  the  gray  and 
the  red.  Grimod  de  la  Reymiere,  in  his  Almanach  des  Gourmands, 
says  that  the  difference  is  the  same  as  that  between  a  bishop  and  a 
cardinal.  To  carve  a  partridge,  first  remove  the  right  wing  and  leg, 
then  those  on  the  left  side,  and  next  divide  the  body  in  two  length- 
wise. Only  young  partridges  should  be  roasted;  the  older  birds  are 
better  made  up  in  salamis  or  stews.  Quail  is  served  rolled  in  a  thin 
slice  of  bacon,  and  inclosed  in  a  grape  leaf.  It  is  also  cut  in  two, 
like  real  reed  and  rail  birds,  and  larks  may  be  treated  in  the  same 
way.  The  thrush  is  cooked  like  the  quail,  but  it  may  be  carved 
either  limb  by  limb,  or  cut  in  two  lengthwise.  There  are  more 
ways  than  one  of  carving  a  turkey.  One  way  is  to  cut  from  the 
breasts  square  slices,  and  proceed  in  the  same  way  for  all  the  fleshy 
parts  of  the  bird.  Though  this  is  an  easy  way  for  the  carver,  it  has 


Do  you  Drink  ?    Then  Napa  Soda  is  your  Tipple 


78  THE)   INNER   MAN 

the  drawback  of  allowing  all  the  natural  gravy  to  escape,  and  to 
leave  the  most  delicate  morsels  clinging  to  the  carcass.  Or  you 
may  remove  the  legs  separately,  place  them  to  one  side  and  then  do 
the  same  to  the  wings,  but  cut  them  up  in  pieces  of  suitable  sizes; 
next  cut  off  the  white  meat  as  close  to  the  carcass  as  possible,  and 
lastly,  break  up  the  carcass.  A  third  way,  after  the  wings  have 
been  removed,  is  to  break  the  carcass  above  the  crupper,  which 
remains  attached  to  the  legs,  and  forms  sort  of  a  hood  which  is 
vulgarly  called  the  bishop's  cap.  This  is  a  good  way  to  serve. 
Carve  when  there  are  only  a  few  persons  at  the  table.  Chickens  and 
capons  should  be  carved  very  much  the  same  way  as  turkeys.  The 
legs  make  two  pieces,  the  wings  three,  the  white  meat  is  left  in 
whole  slices,  and  the  carcass  is  separated  into  six  pieces.  Chickens 
and  capons  are  much  improved  by  the  use  of  truffles,  but,  as  George 
Grant  will  tell  you,  truffles  are  not  to  be  got  in  America.  Moliere 
owed  the  title  of  one  of  his  masterpieces  to  truffles.  He  was  dining 
at  Chantilly  with  Prince  de  Conde  and  the  Secretary  of  the  Papal 
Nuncio,  a  purple-faced  red-nosed  monk,  who  never  opened  his 
mouth  except  to  stuff  food  in  it.  The  only  thing  he  said  during  the 
repast  was  when  the  second  course  came  on,  and  then  clasping  his 
hands  in  adoring  delight  at  the  sight  of  a  great  dish  of  magnificent 
truffles,  he  exclaimed,  "  Tart  offalli  !  tart  offalli!  "  the  Italian  name 
for  this  tuber.  His  sensual  ecstacy  impressed  the  word  on  Moliere' s 
memory,  and  out  of  it  he  made  the  name  of  Tartuffe,  which  he  gave 
to  his  celebrated  personation  of  sanctimonious  hypocrisy.  Rossini 
was  also  exceedingly  fond  of  truffles.  One  day  when  dining  with 
Victor  Hugo,  seeing  the  poet  mixing  them  upon  his  plate  with 
vegetables  and  the  gravy  and  meat  of  a  ragout,  he  could  not  repress 
a  pained  exclamation.  "What  is  the  matter?"  asked  his  host. 
"As  a  poet  I  admire  you,"  answered  the  illustrious  maistro,  "but 
as  an  eater  I  despise  you."  To  have  truffles  and  bananas  as  cheap 
as  potatoes  was  an  Utopia  which  Balzac  unsuccessfully  attempted  to 
realize  at  his  little  country  house  near  Ville  d'Avary.  And  Byron 
once  called  truffles  "edible  roses."  A  goose  is  carved  the  same  as  a 
wild  duck  (this  is  also  the  case  with  a  tame  duck)  and  should  be 
served  up  with  turnips  or  olives.  It  should  be  sufficiently  well  done 
for  it  to  be  possible  to  carve  it  with  a  spoon  or  the  point  of  a  knife. 
Pigeons  when  roasted  are  divided  into  four  pieces.  When  no  com- 
pany is  present  the  most  equitable  way  is  to  cut  a  pigeon  in  two- 
longitudinally. 


THE  INNER    MAN 


MOORE,  HUNT&  CO. 
some  good  and  wholesome  stimulant,  Kentucky  whisky  at  once 
suggests  itself,  and  Messrs.  Moore,  Hunt  &  Co.,  of  404  Front  street, 
the  agents  of  Jesse  Moore  &  Co.'s  Whisky  of  Louisville  are  remem- 
bered. These  celebrated  whiskies  have  long  been  the  choice  of  the 
best  connoisseurs,  because  of  their  deliciously  mellow  flavor,  and 
unrivalled  purity.  Those  distinctive  qualities  are  jealously  guarded, 
and  the  result  is  the  great  demand  that  exists  for  them  on  the 
Pacific  Coast.  All  these  whiskies  are  shipped  around  Cape  Horn, 
and  the  firm  always  have  from  one  to  three  cargoes  en  route  to  this 
city.  The  advantage  to  them  from  this  long  sea  voyage  as  com- 
pared to  whiskies  shipped  by  rail  is  manifest.  About  a  year  ago, 
Mr.  Thomas  Kirkpatrick,  who  had  been  for  a  long  time  previously 
connected  with  the  house  became  a  member  of  the  firm,  and  with 
Mr.  H.  B.  Hunt  attends  to  its  extensive  western  business,  while  Mr. 
G.  H.  Moore  resides  in  Louisville,  and  manages  that  end  of  the  line. 
The  firm  has  been  in  existence  in  San  Francisco  since  August,  1853, 
and  has,  by  reason  of  the  rapid  increase  in  its  business,  moved  from 
California  street  to  the  present  large  depot,  with  its  great  storage 
capacity,  on  404  Front  street.  In  those  vast  cellars  rest  thousands 
of  gallons  of  this  renowned  whisky,  some  fifteen  and  twenty  years 
of  age,  and  all  carrying  that  fine  bouquet  and  delicate  aroma  which 
has  made  the  Jesse  Moore  whisky  a  credit  to  Kentucky,  the  whisky 
producing  State  of  the  Union.  Skill  and  experience  in  the  blending 
process,  great  age,  and  transportation  by  sea,  are  the  agents  to 
which  those  brands  owe  their  prominence,  taking  in  consideration, 
of  course,  the  absolute  purity  of  the  whisky  as  it  comes  from  the 
still.  The  untiring  efforts  of  Messrs.  Hunt  and  Kirkpatrick  to 
make  the  public  acquainted  with  the  merits  of  the  Jesse  Moore 
whiskies  have  led  to  the  position  they  occupy  to-day,  and  now 
their  shipments  go  forth  to  every  city  and  village  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains. 

The  continued  and  ever-increasing  demand  for  the  Jesse  Moore 
brand  is  a  convincing  proof  that  the  best  goods  will  always  hold  their 
own,  while  those  of  an  inferior  quality  must  go  to  the  wall.  Again 
an  additional  reason  for  the  popularity  of  these  whiskies  is  that  they 
really  contain  all  the  true  medicinal  properties  which  are  to  be  found 
in  pure  liquor,  and  none  but  good  effects  arise  from  their  use  in 
moderation. 


Ghiradelli's  Breakfast  Cocoa.     The  Best 


60  THE;    INNER 

MERCHANTS'  EXCHANGE.— The  Merchants'  Exchange 
Saloon  kept  by  James  Kearney,  and  adjoining  the  "  Change"  room 
is  one  of  the  best  known  institutions  of  its  kind  in  this  city.  Here 
is  a  place  where  indeed  it  may  be  truthfully  said  that  the  good 
things  to  eat  and  drink  of  life  are  served  in  profusion.  The 
magnificent  roasts  that  smoke  on  the  table,  the  huge  curries,  the 
great  bowls  of  salad,  seen  when  put  on  at  n  o'clock  each  day, 
sufficient  to  feed  an  army.  But  the  host  that  swarm  in  from  Change, 
and  the  street,  quickly  demolishes  them,  and  in  a  very  short  space 
of  time,  they  are  replaced  by  others  of  the  same  quality.  The 
wines  and  liquors  are,  of  course,  beyond  criticism,  and  fitting: 
accompaniments  to  the  very  excellent  lunch. 

THE  MINT. — The  Mint,  605  Commercial  street,  is  conducted 
by  Edward  Edwards,  a  very  competent  and  very  popular  gentleman, 
who  has  had  a  long  experience  in  his  business.  Mr.  Edwards  enjoys 
a  very  first-class  order  of  custom,  and  shows  his  appreciation  of  it, 
by  keeping  a  very  first-class  line  of  soft  goods.  The  Mint  is  the 
resort  of  many  leading  citizens,  and,  having  several  private  rooms 
leading  from  the  main  saloon,  affords  opportunities  for  those  pleasant 
conferences  which  are  so  delightful  over  a  social  glass.  An  air 
of  homely  comfort  is  one  of  its  leading  characteristics.  The  old 
brandies  and  mellow  whiskies  at  the  Mint  are  inducements  which 
often  bring  its  patrons  many  blocks  to  indulge  in  these  comforts. 

THE  BOULEVARD. —The  Boulevard,  of  which  Mr.  B.  B. 
Dobbas  is  the  proprietor,  stands  on  the  northwest  corner  of  Califor- 
nia street  and  Central  avenue.  It  is  a  favorite  halting-place  for  those 
who  take  a  trip  on  the  Jackson  or  California  street  railroad.  The 
main  saloon  is  spacious  and  handsomely  furnished,  and  a  well- 
selected  lot  of  reading  matter  finds  a  place  on  the  tables,  for  the  con- 
venience of  those  who  may  have  to  wait  for  a  car,  or  wish  to  while 
away  an  hour  before  making  the  return  trip.  There  are  parlors  for 
ladies  and  their  escorts,  where  refreshments  of  a  liquid  character,  or 
a  plate  of  sandwiches  are  served  to  those  desiring  them.  The  Boule- 
vard is  one  of  those  road-end  places  which  are  really  a  necessity  to 
travellers.  Neatness  and  a  disposition  to  make  all  who  cross  its 
portals  comfortable  are  the  characteristics  of  this  institution.  On 
holidays  it  is  usually  thronged  ;  and,  indeed,  at  all  times,  receives 
its  full  share  of  patronage.  The  class  of  liquors  sold  are  of  the  best, 
and  the  lunch-counter  is  always  supplied  with  a  good  joint,  and 


INNER   N1AN  81 

appetizing  snacks  for  the  hungry  wayfarer.  These  are  among  the 
principal  reasons  why  the  Boulevard  has  become  so  popular.  It  is  also 
a  retired  place,  free  from  noise  and  clamor  where  friends  may  chat  and 
enjoy  their  refreshment  without  disturbance.  There  is  always  a 
pleasure  and  recreation  in  getting  even  a  little  way  out  of  town,  and 
the  comfort  one  enjoys  at  the  Boulevard  doubly  enhances  this  enjoy- 
ment. 

"LUKIN'S"  — The  pleasant  and  sunny  saloon,  of  which  Joseph 
A.  Lukin  is  the  proprietor,  and  which  has  longf  been  known  as 
"Lukin's,"  is  at  446  California,  and  is  among  the  most  popular 
resorts  of  its  class  in  San  Francisco.  Mr.  Lukin  is  a  pioneer  saloon 
keeper  of  this  city.  Years  ago,  before  the  New  City  Hall  was  built, 
and  when  the  tales  of  how  the  water  came  up  to  Montgomery  street 
were  not  yet  regarded  as  chestnuts,  Mr.  Lukin's  place  on  that 
thoroughfare,  between  California  and  Pine,  on  the  east  side,  was  a 
favorite  rendezvous.  When  he  moved  to  the  present  place,  his 
friends  followed  him,  because  they  knew  that  the  same  good  system 
would  prevail.  Mr.  Lukin  possesses  to  perfection  the  art  of  making 
a  first-class  mixed  drink.  He  is  also  an  inventor  and  departs  from 
the  beaten  track  to  concoct  new  draughts  of  delight.  Cooling  drinks 
in  warm  weather,  hot  drinks  in  cold  weather,  and  all  round  drinks 
to  suit  every  kind  of  people,  are  to  him  an  open  book.  His  whis- 
kies, brandies,  and  indeed  all  his  wines  and  liquors  are  procured 
from  the  very  best  houses  and  are  of  the  finest  quality.  It  is  not  at 
every  bar  in  this  city  that  we  can  be  assured  of  getting  good  liquors. 
Some  of  pretentious  appearance,  gaudy  bar-keepers,  expensive  crys- 
tal, and  big  mirrors,  serve  their  customers  with  stuff,  which  the 
much -abused  corner  grocery  men  would  disdain  to  handle.  Mr. 
Lukin's  place  is  neat  and  unpretentious,  but  the  good  stuff  is  there, 
and  that  is  the  main  consideration. 

MAISON  TORTONI — The  personal  popularity  of  this  restau- 
rateur has  much  to  do  with  the  success  of  the  restaurant  in  this  city. 
The  Maison  Tortoni,  109  O'Farrell  street,  Pierre  Carrere  proprietor, 
is  a  good  illustration  of  this  fact.  Though  the  Tortoni  has  been  in 
existence  but  a  little  over  a  year,  its  handsome  apartments  are 
thronged  daily  with  those  epicures  who,  having  known  Monsieur 
Carrere  in  the  past,  felt  confident  that  the  wants  of  the  Inner  Man 
would  never  be  neglected  in  any  establishment  under  his  supervision. 


A  Napa  Soda  Lemonade  is  a  Luxury 


82  THE}    INNER    MAN 

It  is  needless  to  say  that  the  very  highest  skill  in  the  art  cuisine  is 
exercised  at  the  Tortoni,  and  that  the  wines  are  the  best  quality. 
The  dining-rooms  on  the  second  floor  are  luxuriantly  furnished,  and 
at  the  same  time  an  air  of  supreme  comfort  pervades  everywhere- 
The  perfect  system  that  reigns,  the  utter  absence  of  confusion,  and 
long  and  tedious  delays  are  among  the  characteristics  which  have 
led  the  popularity  of  the  Tortoni.  The  kitchen  is  a  picture  of  clean- 
liness and  neatness,  is  well  ventilated,  and  the  cold  storage  rooms  in 
the  rear  are  an  important  addition  to  this  all  important  department. 
There  is  nothing  that  the  markets  of  San  Francisco  contain  that  is 
not  furnished  at  the  Tortoni  in  its  due  season. 


CHAPTER  XI 

MAKING   AND   DRINKING    OF    WINE — THE   RED    AND    WHITE   WINES    OF    THE 

GKEI.KS — WINES  PREVIOUS  TO  THE  DECAY  OF  THE  ROMAN  EMPIRE — 

GLASSES  FROM  WHICH  THE  VARIOUS  WINES  SHOULD  BE  DRANK 


VERYWHERE  in  ancient  law  we  find 
the  mention,  among  the  more  civilized 
nations,  of  the  making  and  the  drinking 
of  wine.  It  is  cut  upon  the  stones  of 
Egypt,  dating  back  to  ages  whose  num- 
bers have  never  been  defined.  It  was 
used  in  India  in  ages  more  remote  even 
than  those  of  Egypt.  Then  came  the  period  of  Sacred  Scriptures, 
then  the  Greeks,  the  Romans,  the  Gauls,  the  Germans,  and  last,  but 
not  least,  in  our  minds,  the  Californians.  All  these  people  used  wine 
in  a  measure,  and  sometimes  without  a  measure,  in  their  sacred 
rights,  public  ceremonies,  and  social  intercourse.  Of  the  wines  of 
India  we  have  but  little  record.  Evidently,  in  those  hot  regions 
wines  could  not  have  been  made.  They  must  have  been  brought 
from  cooler  countries  into  India.  Nevertheless,  we  have  the  legend 
that  Bacchus  came  from  India,  and  brought  from  that  section  of  the 
world,  the  use  of  wine,  the  vine  itself  and  agriculture,  and  man}' 
arts  and  sciences.  The  wine  of  Egypt  we  have  some  knowledge  of. 
It  has  been  found  in  the  tombs  of  kings  and  other  important  person- 
ages. Those  wines  were  found  to  be  impregnated  with  cloves, 
cinnamon,  nutmegs  and  other  spices.  It  may  have  been  pleasing  to 
those  people  to  drink  such  wines,  but  to  us  it  would  seem  more  like 
a  very  peculiar  kind  of  punch.  The  wines  of  Canaan  and  adjacent 
lands  we  have  some  idea  of  from  the  Scriptures;  we  know,  for 
instance,  they  had  red  wines.  They  do  not  mention  they  had  white 
wines.  Solomon  was  not  only  great,  wise  and  experienced,  but  was 
also  technical  in  his  attainments.  Wines  are  only  red  when  they 
are  new,  and  that  when  they  get  old,  they  are  no  longer  red,  but 
become  tawny.  Very  evidently  Solomon,  with  all  his  wisdom,  had 
been  incautious  enough  on  some  occasion,  to  have  taken  the  new 
red  wine  and  suffered  thereby.  The  wines  of  the  Greeks  were  said 

is 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


84  THE    INNKR 

to  be  both  red  and  white.  We  have  clear  record  of  this,  and  for  a 
good  time  they  were  kept  comparatively  pure.  Finally,  from  con- 
tact with  Eastern  nations,  they  began  likewise  to  spice  their  wines 
and  thus  spoiled  them.  The  wines  of  the  Romans  were  never  kept 
pure.  Even  the  Falernian  were  mixed  more  or  less  with  spices.  And 
when  we  read  of  those  magnificent  feasts  and  banquets,  which  have 
ever  since  been  unrivaled,  we  can  only  imagine  from  the  remnants 
that  are  left,  and  the  descriptions  given  by  old  authorities — Pliny, 
Vara,  and  others — that  nearly  all  their  wines  were  spiced.  Samples 
that  were  discovered  in  Pompeii  conclusively  showed  their  wines 
were  spiced  at  that  time.  It  was  the  general  custom,  especially 
among  the  higher  class,  who  were  the  largest  consumers  to  have 
their  wines  spiced. 

The  wines  of  the  Gauls  were  the  purest  wines  of  the  period, 
coming  just  previous  to  the  decay  of  the  Roman  Empire.  The  vines 
destined  for  wine-making  were  originally  conveyed  to  the  southern 
coast  of  Gaul  by  sailing  vessels,  and  were  derived  either  from  the 
southern  part  of  Italy,  or  possibly  from  the  Grecian  Archipelago. 
These  were  first  landed  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Marseilles,  accord- 
ing to  accepted  record,  some  time  before  the  advent  of  the  Caesars, 
and  thence  sprang  the  present  French  wine  trade.  As  periods  went 
on,  the  planting  of  vines  spread  northward  and  westward  through- 
out ancient  Gaul,  and  gradually  attained  renown.  The  earliest  of 
these  wines  that  gained  any  noteworthy  reputation  were  those  pro- 
duced in  the  Burgundy  district.  The  other  parts  of  the  present 
France  gained  their  reputation  long  after,  and  comparatively  at  a 
recent  period.  The  wines  of  the  Burgundy  district  won  consider- 
able favor  with  the  Romans,  as  well  they  might  in  contrast  with 
the  sour  wines,  made  from  vines  trained  on  trees,  and  which  were 
only  made  palatable  by  the  addition  of  honey  or  spices,  or  by  being 
boiled  down  and  cooked.  The  German  drinks  wine  at  all  times, 
very  often  sandwiched  in  the  shape  of  a  liquid  sandwich,  between  two 
glasses  of  beer,  and  finds  his  pleasure  in  this  mode  of  filling  himself 
up.  The  American  drinks  whisky  during  the  day,  and  wine  only 
when  entertaining  friends.  The  Frenchman  rarely  drinks  wine 
between  meals,  reserving  that  satisfaction  for  the  table,  or  imme- 
diately afterwards.  The  Spaniard  uses  his  wine  as  do  the  French. 
Likewise  does  the  Portuguese.  The  Italian  drinks  wine  at  table, 
and  whenever  he  is  thirsty.  The  Englishman  drinks  his  port  at 
table,  and  ale  to  quench  thirst.  The  Russian  drinks  his  whisky  or 
spirits  at  any  time,  and  his  champagne  throughout  his  meal,  if  he 


INNER    NIAN  85 

has  the  means  to  gratify  his  propensity.  The  Hungarian  drinks  his 
wine  whenever  he  can  get  it.  From  time  immemorial  numerous 
rules  have  been  laid  down  for  the  setting  out  of  dinners,  intended  to 
show  some  formal  consideration  to  invited  guests.  These  rules 
treated  of  the  different  wines  that  were  to  appear  at  certain  times, 
and  what  dishes  were  to  be  served  during  that  time,  what  number 
of  wines  there  should  be  used  on  grand  and  formal  banquets;  what 
wine  should  first  be  presented,  and  which  last.  Within  this  century 
these  rules  have  been  modified  hundreds  of  times,  and  in  fact,  there 
is  no  definite  rule  to  be  laid  down.  At  the  beginning  of  the  century 
it  was  considered  the  thing — and  fashion  is  a  great  power — to  have 
from  ten  to  fifteen  different  wines  or  more.  This  often  amounted  to 
twenty,  and  sometimes  thirty  different  wines  at  each  dinner  or 
banquet.  Wines  ought  to  be  presented  at  the  proper  temperature, 
and  champagne  as  cold  as  it  can  be  made  without  absolutely 
freezing.  No  ice  should  ever  be  used  in  champagne  or  sparkling 
wines.  The  bottle  should  be  put  upon  or  covered  with  ice  before 
serving.  This  is  done  so  simply  and  the  satisfaction  resulting  so 
great  it  is  difficult  to  see  why  so  little  attention  is  paid  to  it. 
Champagne  drank  with  ice>  in  it  is  merely  drinking  for  show.  It 
leaves  no  pleasant  taste,  makes  the  wine  flat,  destroys  its  flavor,  and 
depresses  its  beautiful,  sparkling  qualities.  The  cooling  of  cham- 
pagne as  previously  mentioned  can  be  done  very  easily.  I^ay  the 
bottle  down  in  a  basin  or  tin  pan,  break  up  a  handful  of  ice,  put  it 
on  the  bottle,  sprinkle  with  a  little  salt,  and  cover  with  a  wet  piece 
of  flannel.  The  result  of  laying  the  bottle  down  in  this  manner  for 
two  hours  will  yield  the  most  gratifying  results,  and  the  wine  be 
put  in  its  best  condition.  Claret  and  Burgundy,  on  the  contrary, 
should  be  moderately  warm.  A  gentle  warmth  brings  out  an 
appreciation  of  body,  diminishes  the  astringency,  and  develops  all 
the  finer  qualities  prominently,  including  that  of  bouquet;  and  one 
is  surprised  to  note  the  absolute  carelessness,  or  downright  ignorance 
in  which  good  clarets  are  drank  and  served.  The  temperature  makes 
or  mars  the  reputation  of  a  claret  as  much  as  any  other  cause.  In  warm 
weather  icing  of  claret  is  done  for  the  purpose  of  quenching  thirst,  but 
such  practice  cannot  possibly  give  any  further  qualification  and  cer- 
tainly destroys  any  of  the  finer  qualities  the  wine  itself  might  possess. 
We  have  all  of  us  seen  pretended  wine  drinkers  add  a  dozen  lumps  of 
sugar  to  their  claret,  and  drink  it  with  untold  relish.  Such  people 
do  not  deserve  the  name  of  wine-drinkers,  and  are  totally  unfit  to 
pronounce  upon  the  merits  of  any  wine,  and  if  a  claret  needs  the 


Napa  Soda  Water  Cures  Dyspepsia 


86  THE    INNER    MAN 

addition  of  sugar  to  make  it  drinkable,  then  it  is  better  not  to  drink 
it  at  all.  White  wine,  such  as  Sauterne  and  Rhine  wines  and  others 
of  similar  character,  should  be  drank  comparatively  cold  or  cool. 
While  a  chilling  temperature  destroys  the  flavor  of  claret,  it  seem- 
ingly has  the  contrary  effect  on  white  wines,  bringing  out  their 
bouquet  and  giving  them  an  agreeable,  fresh,  spicy  taste,  that  wine- 
drinkers  seek  for;  and  when  found,  always  admire^  Port,  Sherry, 
and  Madeira,  all  being  fortified  wines,  containing  certain  amounts  of 
unfermented  sugar,  are  usually  termed  hot  wines,  from  the  effect 
that  the  brandy,  entering  into  their  composition,  creates  upon  the 
palate,  and  possibly  the  heating  sensation  they  have  upon  the  body. 
These  should  be  drank  only  in  moderation,  and  rather  after  the  meal 
than  during  its  progress,  though  Sherry  and  Madeira  are  often  taken 
with  oysters,  or  immediately  after  the  soup,  and  this  custom  seem- 
ingly, in  nowise  mars  their  qualities.  These  wines  should  never 
be  drank  cold,  but  should  be  partaken  of  at  a  moderately  warm 
degree  of  temperature,  and,  if  used  in  Winter,  should  be  .gently 
heated;  in  Summer  they  would  be  about  right  if  stored  in  a  proper 
place.  These  wines  lose  in  body  and  flavor  by  being  chilled,  and 
Port  especially  suffers  most  severely  under  a  lowering  temperature. 
Through  exposure  to  cold  it  acquires  a  cold,  thin,  harsh,  acid  taste, 
often  akin  to  bitterness,  and  loses  nearly  all  the  characteristic  quali- 
ties that  this  class  of  wine  is  admired  for.  Sherry  and  Madeira 
apparently  lose  their  body,  become  thin,  hide  their  rich,  mellow 
oiliness,  and  lose  their  flavor  almost  entirely. 

There  is  as  much  gratification  and  satisfaction  in  drinking  out 
of  a  proper  glass,  almost  as  the  drinking  of  a  much  better  wine  of  a 
particular  class.  There  is  as  much  art  in  the  selection  of  glasses 
from  which  the  wine  is  to  be  partaken,  as  there  is  in  the  selection  of 
wine  itself  from  among  a  number  of  wines. 

Champagne  should  be  drank  only  out  of  thin  glasses,  as  thin  as 
can  be  procured,  and  of  pure  crystal,  absolutely  colorless,  and  of 
such  a  shape  as  will  best  show  the  sparkling  qualities. 

Unfortunately,  at  a  later  period,  the  method  of  adding  ice  to 
wine  came  into  vogue,  and  the  glass  called  a  pattera  wine  cup, 
used  by  the  Romans,  became  fashionable.  It  is  of  beautiful  propor- 
tions, but  there  is  not  a  place  through  which  the  sparkle  can  be 
viewed.  And  this  flat  surface  has  no  tendency  to  show  the  sparkle. 
The  bubbles,  what  there  are  of  them,  arise  and  form  a  string  of 
beads  along  the  edges. 


INNER    MAN  87 

At  nine  out  of  ten  banquets,  the  waiter  fills  the  glass  with  ice, 
putting  the  Champagne  on  top,  thus  mixing  your  Champagne  with 
water.  There  is  another  very  excellent  glass,  which,  although  not 
as  good  as  the  first,  is  of  fair  presentable  appearance.  The  stem  is 
not  as  long  as  the  first  one,  nor  the  bowl  as  flat  as  ti\<t  pattera,  which 
modifications  permit  the  watching  of  the  sparkling  beads  arising  from 
the  bottom,  as  well  as  their  graceful  spreading  to  the  borders  of  the 
glass.  Claret  glasses,  like  those  for  Champagne,  ought  to  be  very 
thin,  of  medium  size,  blown  from  crystal,  cut  sharp,  and  absolutely 
colorless.  They  should  be  perfectly  clear,  and  without  any  ornamenta- 
tion. These  glasses  should  be  with  a  stem,  and  the  upper  diameter  of 
the  same  dimension  as  the  lower  part  of  the  bowl.  These  equal 
proportions  have  good  reason  for  thus  being  so.  Take,  for  instance, 
a  claret — one  of  its  pleasing  effects  is  its  display  of  color;  this  color 
may  be  dark  or  may  be  light  tinted,  but  if  it  is  equally  intense  at  the 
top  and  bottom  of  the  bowl  and  brilliant,  it  is  always  considered  beau- 
tiful. In  tapering  glasses  the  claret  may  be  of  the  proper  tint  or  hue 
at  the  top,  but  at  the  tapering  bottom  would  take  upon  itself  a 
yellowish  tinge,  striking  the  eye  unfavorably.  A  claret  glass  should 
be  colorless,  still  there  is  one  departure  from  this  general  rule  that 
might  be  allowed — it  is  that  glass  having  its  upper  edge  tinted  with 
a  rosy  tint,  gradually  diminishing  in  color  as  it  descends  and  fades 
almost  to  colorless  crystal.  Such  glasses  tend  to  give  the  color  of 
the  wine  a  richer  hue,  and  more  attractive  tint,  and  are  preeminently 
the  glasses  for  Burgundy  wines,  whose  color  they  deepen,  and  cheat 
the  eye  into  a  belief  of  greater  body  and  more  generous  quality. 
There  is  nothing  like  cheating  the  palate  with  a  glass — the  wine 
really  tastes  so  much  better,  simply  because  it  pleases  the  eye.  While 
this  kind  of  a  glass  is  but  half  full  the  same  depth  of  color  prevails 
from  top  to  bottom,  owing  to  the  deeper  tint  of  the  upper  part,  and 
the  visual  effect  is  of  the  most  pleasing  nature.  Glasses  thus  tinted 
should  have  crystal  white  stems  and  feet,  so  as  to  present  a  pleasing 
contrast. 

BUTLER'S.— Butler's  English  Ale  House,  7  Sutler  street,  with 
an  entrance  on  Market  street,  is  the  resort  of  many  old  countrymen 
who  love  to  drink  their  half-and-half  from  the  shining  pewter. 
Butler's  chicken  cask  is  a  good  brand  of  Bourbon  whiskey,  and  is 
well  appreciated.  But  among  his  choice  tipples  a  fine  and  potent  old 
Scotch  whiskey  which  has  travelled  twice  round  the  Horn  in  a 
Sherry  cask  leads  the  van.  There  is  a  neatly  furnished  snuggery  at 


Indigestion  Dies  where  Napa  Soda  Lives 


88  THE     INNER     MAN 

Butler's,  where  the  English  illustrated  papers,  as  well  as  the  city 
weeklies  and  dailies  rest  upon  the  table.  Cold  and  delicious  pig's 
head  is  the  piece  de  resistance  of  Butler's  lunch  table ;  and  in  the 
trouting  season  an  appetizing  fish,  deliciously  cooked,  caught  by 
Mr.  Butler  himself,  who  is  a  successful  and  enthusiastic  angler. 

GIBB'S — James  Gibb,  at  617  Merchant  Street,  makes  a  feature 
of  the  Belmont  whiskey  which  he  imports  himself  direct  from  Ken- 
tucky. Mr.  Gibb  is  an  old  timer,  and  if  the  shades  of  the  ancient 
Californians  who  refreshed  themselves  from  the  cares  of  business  at 
his  bar  were  to  be  again  summoned  from  the  vasty  deep,  they  would 
form  a  procession  so  large  that  the  confines  of  that  narrow  thorough- 
fare might  not  enclose  them.  A  fine  class  of  Port  and  Madeira,  with 
a  good  brand  of  cigars,  are  among  the  choice  things  with  which  Mr. 
Gibb  regales  his  patrons,  and  his  mixed  drinks  have  long  been 
regarded  as  attaining  the  summit  of  artistic  skill.  He  is  one  of  the 
few  who  thoroughly  understand  the  manufacture  of  a  Sherry  Cobbler, 
or  a  mint  julep — those  delights  of  the  past. 

THE  SAUTERNES  OF  CALIFORNIA— When  the  white 
wines  of  the  region  near  Bordeaux,  known  as  Sauternes  to  the  world, 
were  first  seen  at  the  Court  of  France,  one  of  the  courtiers  perceiving 
their  striking  peculiarity  asked  the  King,  "what  are  you  doing  now; 
giving  us  wine  with  ttn&gout  de  pierre  a  fusil  ?  ' '  The  gun  flint  taste 
nevertheless  won  the  favor  of  the  French  Court  and  all  the  world 
besides.  The  best  of  the  Sauternes  became  renowned  as  the  roi  des 
vins  et  vin  des  rois. 

To  the  Bordeaux  trade,  these  white  wines  are  known  under 
many  classifications,  but  to  the  consumer  in  other  lands  a  certain 
peculiar  flavor  common,  more  or  less,  to  all  of  them  has  been 
recognized  as  that  of  Sauternes  wine,  whether  the  wine  be  of  small 
or  great  quality.  Even  the  petits  vins  blancs  which  are  often  known 
as  vin  des  graves  have  been  dignified  by  the  importing  and  bottling 
houses  as  light  Sauternes.  The  term  as  a  distinction  has  therefore 
lost  much  of  its  local  significance  and  become,  as  is  true  of  Port, 
from  Oporto,  Sherry  from  Xeres,  Burgundy  from  Bourgogne,  ex- 
pressive of  a  typical  characteristic  of  a  class  of  wines.  The  mer- 
chants of  Bordeaux  have  been  largely  responsible  for  this  apparent 
robbery  of  local  fame.  This  feature  of  trade  is  more  conspicuous  in 
the  case  of  the  wines  of  Chateau  Yquem,  which,  being  made  only 
from  the  berries  richest  in  sugar,  are  celebrated  for  their  golden 


THE    INNER    MAN  89 

sweetness  accompanied  still  with  the  characteristic  flavors  and 
bouquets  of  Sauternes  in  their  development.  Sweet  Sauternes  after 
the  style  of  this  great  vintage  have  been  labeled  Chateau  Yquem,  the 
true  marks  of  the  genuine  Chateau  wines  being  avoided;  the  name 
of  the  wine  having  become  in  a  measure  typical. 

The  great  red  wines  of  Bordeaux  come  from  the  Medoc  region 
nearer  the  sea  than  the  Sauternes.  Custom  again  here  has  been 
capricious  and  popular  terms  are  confusing.  In  Paris,  the  common 
expression  to  indicate  a  Medoc  red  wine  is  simply  vin  de  Bordeaux 
uttered  with  a  somewhat  reverential  tone  of  voice.  An  order  for 
une  bouteille  de  Bordeaux  always  causes  the  waiter  to  hesitate  and 
look  the  customer  in  the  face  as  if  to  determine  whether  it  would  be 
safe  to  attempt  an  imposition. 

In  England,  the  Bordeaux  red  wines  are  known  as  Clarets. 
Dry  red  wines  of  other  vintages  and  flavor  are  not  recognized  as 
Clarets.  In  the  United  States,  however,  this  term  has  a  generally 
broader  signification  and  to  most  people  is  held  to  include  even  the 
Burgundies.  Practically  in  California  the  wine  makers  and  the 
trade  define  all  dry  red  wines  as  Clarets. 

And  recently  we  have  our  California  Sauternes,  Haut  Sauternes, 
Chateau  Yquem  and  Medocs.  Some  of  the  French  people  are 
offended  at  this  apparent  presumption,  this  apparent  wholesale 
theft  of  French  reputations.  Many  of  the  French  jury  at  the  Paris 
Exposition  of  1889  considered  it  even  impossible  that  a  champagne 
could  come  from  America  ;  yet  how  many  Americans  are  there  who 
understand  by  the  term  anything  more  than  a  distinction  in  a  class, 
or  kind  of  wine,  rather  than  as  the  French  do,  the  distinction  as  to 
place  of  production. 

There  is  a  simple  justification  for  the  use  of  terms,  which  are 
now  used  to  describe  the  general,  or  salient  characteristics,  by  which 
products  are  recognized,  provided  there  is  no  pretense  of  fake  origin. 
Those  peculiarities  by  which  a  consumer  has  been  accustomed 
immediately  to  recognize  a  low  grade,  or  high  grade,  a  light  or 
heavy,  an  old  or  young,  as  a  Bordeaux  or  Medoc  Claret,  or  as  the 
case  may  be,  a  Sauterne,  are  not  due  to  locality  ;  but  to  the  certain 
varieties  of  vines  grown  in  suitable  locations  under  favorable  climatic 
conditions.  So  in  California,  we  have  the  Sauterne  grapes,  first 
famous  in  France  ;  the  Medoc  grapes,  first  famous  as  Bordeaux. 

The  Cresta  Blanca  Souvenir  vintages  of  California,  produced  by 
Chas.  A.  Wetmore,  at  his  vineyard  called  Cresta  Blanca,  near  Liver- 
more,  have  been  the  direct  result  of  intelligent  study  of  the  highest 

Ladies  Drink  Napa   Soda  for  Complexion 


90  THE    INNER    N1AN 

qualities  of  French  wines  in  their  native  homes.  Mr.  Wetmore 
visited  France  and  succeeded  in  wresting  from  nature  the  secrets  of 
the  essential  qualities  most  admired  und  everywhere  recogni/ed  as 
belonging  to  the  highest  types.  He  has  imported  the  cuttings  of 
the  identical  vines  of  the  great  Medoc  Clarets,  the  Sauternes  and 
other  celebrated  vintages.  Then,  after  exhaustive  researches  in  soil 
and  climatic  conditions,  he  has  succeeded  in  selecting  the  proper  place, 
where  his  present  successes  indicate  that  truly  grand  wines  of  Sau- 
terne  and  Medoc  types  can  be  produced  oftener  than  in  the  famous 
districts  near  Bordeaux.  Here  the  year  of  grand  wines  may  be 
confidently  expected  are  the  year  of  poor  quality  is  little  dreaded. 
In  Sauternes  there  is  good  reason  to  believe  that  the  greatest  achieve- 
ments of  France  will  be  frequently  surpassed.  In  Medocs  the  type 
is  modified  by  greater  development  of  body  and  flavor,  without  loss 
of  the  essential  hygienic  properties.  To  suit  the  British  taste, 
Bordeaux  Clarets  are  generally  blended  with  a  little  rich  Spanish 
wine  to  give  more  body  and  strength.  Such  profanation  will  never 
be  needed  here. 

In  the  standard  English  work,  "  Redding  on  Wines,"  the  best 
qualities  of  Medoc  Clarets  are  described  as  follows  : 

4 'The  wine  when  in  perfection,  should  be  of  rich  color,  a  bouquet 
partaking  of  the  violet,  very  fine,  and  of  very  agreeable  flavor.  It 
should  be  strong  without  intoxicating,  revive  the  stomach,  and  not 
affect  the  head  ;  leaving  the  breath  pure  and  the  mouth  fresh." 

The  residents  of  Burgundy  speak  contemptuously  of  the  cold  wines 
(vinsfroids)  of  Bordeaux  and  extol  the  generous  vintages  of  their 
own  grapes,  which  are  different  from  those  of  Medoc.  The  Bor- 
deaux people  refuse  to  drink  Burgundy,  calling  it  hot  (chaud)  and 
heady  (capiteax).  For  the  same  reason  the  greater  number  of  Cali- 
fornia red  wines  are  said  to  be  "  more  like  Burgundy  than  Claret." 

But  the  peculiar  Irygienic  quality,  that  absence  of  headiness  in 
the  fine  Bordeaux  Clarets,  is  reproduced  by  the  Medoc  varieties  of 
grapes  at  Cresta  Blanca,  with  superior  color,  strength  and  flavor. 
So  are  the  great  and  seductive  qualities  of  the  Sauternes,  Haut- 
Sauternes  and  Chateau  Yquem  types  making  Cresta  Blanca  famous 
already.  The  connoisseur  also  has  his  opinion  fortified  by  the 
decision  of  the  International  Jury  of  wine  experts  at  the  Paris 
Exposition  of  1889  which  awarded  to  the  Cresta  Blanca  vintages  a 
gold  medal. 

Cresta  Blanca  wines  are  not  machine-made  like  too  many  others. 
The  most  painstaking  hand-labor  methods,  after  the  time-honored 


THE;   INNER    NIAN  91 

custom  prevailing  at  the  Chateaux  of  France,  are  followed  and  no 
expense  is  spared  to  constantly  improve  in  quality.  As  the  vines 
grow  older,  the  younger  wines  are  improving.  Those  who  would 
know  them  at  their  best  should  lay  away  some  of  these  vintages 
for  age  in  bottle  while  not  neglecting  to  enjoy  their  present  excel- 
lencies. •» 
Cresta  Blanca  is  reached  by  going  to  Livermore,  forty -eight  miles 
by  rail  from  San  Francisco,  then  by  a  picturesque  wagon-road  four 
miles  to  the  mouth  of  a  noble  canon  on  the  frostless  slopes  of  which 
the  vines  and  olives  grow.  Cresta  Blanca  is  likewise  celebrated  for 
pure  olive  oil  with  a  perfume  as  delicate  as  the  orange  blossom. 
The  wines  are  stored  in  deep  tunnels  piercing  the  calcareous  siliciousr 
sub-soil. 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


CHAPTER  XII 

RAPID  EATING,  ONE  OF  THE  GREAT  EVILS  OF  THE  AMERICAN  SOCIAL  SYSTEM— 
THE  THREE  BEST  DIGESTORS — THE  FREQUENCY  WITH  WHICH  FOOD 
SHOULD  BE  TAKEN 


HAT  IS  TRUE  OF  PUNISHMENTS,  of  sports, 
of  stimulants  and  narcotics  is  just  as  true  of  ordinary 
food;  we  cannot  and  do  not  bear  the  coarse  and 
ill-cooked  diet  of  the  last  generation.  The  old 
Northmen  ate  raw  flesh,  and  it  is  believed  that 
the  old  Gauls  were  cannibals.  Just  as  claret,  Rhine  wine,  cigars 
and  cigarettes  have  taken  the  place  of  port  and  brandy,  of 
long  pipes  and  strong  tobacco,  of  chewing  and  snuff-taking,  so 
the  oatmeal  porridge,  the  rye  and  Indian  bread,  the  salt  pork 
and  beef,  the  eels  and  smoked  fish  on  which  our  fathers  thrived, 
have  given  place  to  white  flour  bread,  light  biscuit,  fresh  and 
tender  beef  and  mutton  and  delicious  fruits — all  prepared  and 
cooked  in  a  style  that  harmonizes  with  our  capacious  appetites 
and  susceptible  organizations.  The  remains  of  the  old  customs 
of  eating  and  drinking  are  yet  seen  among  the  distant  rural 
classes,  and  among  the  abjectly  poor  of  the  cities,  especially 
among  our  emigrant  population.  The  different  nations  vary 
much  in  their  susceptibility  in  this  respect.  The  sour  bread, 
cold  sausages,  strong  cheese  and  abundant  lager  beer  on  which 
our  German  friends  thrive,  would  drive  the  average  American 
to  despair.  To  what  extent  this  refinement  of  organization 
and  corresponding  refinement  of  dietetics  and  cookery  will  go, 
no  one  can  now  well  foresee.  The  fourth  law  requires  that  our  meals 
should  be  leisurely  enjoyed,  and  at  a  pleasant  social  table.  All  writers 
on  hygiene — even  the  very  worst  agree  that  it  is  better  to  eat  slowly 
than  hastily;  that  the  food  should  be  well  masticated,  and  leisurely 
swallowed.  This  is  one  of  the  very  few  directions  found  in  our  pop- 
ular diet  treatises,  that  are  in  accord  with  recent  science,  and  sus- 
tained by  experience.  There  is  no  doubt  that  rapid  eating  is  one  of 
the  greatest  evils  of  the  American  social  system.  It  is  the  result 
partly  of  our  climate,  partly  of  our  constitution,  and  partly  of  the 


93 

strifes  and  necessities  of  our  pioneer  life.  On  the  continent  of 
Europe,  as  all  travellers  know,  the  habits  are  very  different  ;  even 
the  peasantry  of  France  and  Germany  take  more  time  at  their  meals 
than  the  laboring  classes  with  us.  National  differences  are  also 
observed  in  the  habits  of  taking  beverages.  The  custom  of  drinking 
or  rather  guzzling  at  public  bars,  is  not  recognized  among  the  better 
orders  of  foreign  society,  and  in  England  is  only  allo\ved  to  the  poor 
and  degraded.  When  the  Parisian  desires  a  glass  of  brandy  or  cor- 
dial he  sits  down  in  a  cafe  and  takes  his  time  for  the  luxury,  mean- 
while reading  a  newspaper  or  chatting  with  a  friend.  The  Yankee 
would  gulp  down  twice  the  quantity  of  liquor  while  the  Frenchman 
was  giving  his  orders  to  the  waiter.  When  an  American  soda  water 
establishment  was  first  opened  in  the  boulevards  in  Paris,  crowds  of 
Frenchmen  used  to  stand  before  the  doors  anal  windows,  laugh- 
ing and  jeering  at  the  novel  sight  of  men  pouring  down  a  tumbler- 
ful of  liquor  at  one  gulp.  It  was  a  long  time  before  the  French  peo- 
ple could  be  induced  to  partake  of  the  very  agreeable  luxury,  and  as 
soon  as  they  began  to  patronize  the  establishment  in  large  numbers 
it  was  necessary  to  provide  tables  and  chairs  where  they  might  sit 
and  sip  the  foaming  soda  water  as  they  were  accustomed  to  sip  their 
cordials  and  liqueurs.  If  the  habit  of  pouring  down  fluid,  even  pure 
water,  into  the  stomach  is  injurious,  how  much  more  so  must  be  the 
shoveling  in  of  solid  and  half-masticated  food  ?  Rapid  feeding  over- 
taxes the  stomach  and  interferes  with  digestion,  just  as  a  too  rapid 
flow  of  ideas  upon  the  mind  overtaxes  the  brain  and  interferes  with 
the  successful  performance  of  its  functions.  To  preach  on  this  sub- 
ject is  almost  idle.  A  man  who  dines  at  a  table  where  all  his  com- 
panions eat  on  the  jump,  finds  it  as  hard  to  act  independently  as  it  is 
to  walk  slowly  'mid  the  press  of  Market  street,  or  to  saunter  at  ease 
in  the  ranks  of  a  flying  army.  Haste  is  as  contagious  as  some  of  our 
worst  diseases,  and  very  few  can  suffer  long  exposure  to  it  without 
showing  the  effects  of  the  poison.  The  only  hope  of  a  reform  in  the 
dietetic  habits  of  the  Americans  lies  in  the  gradual  development  of  a 
better  fashion  of  dining  than  now  prevails  among  us.  The  differen 
between  the  habits  of  the  English  and  the  Americans  in  this  respect^ 
is  as  wide  as  the  Atlantic.  An  English  dinner,  to  the  American  who 
partakes  of  it  for  the  first  time,  is  an  event  in  his  history.  The  courses 
are  so  arranged  and  sub-divided,  that  it  is  impossible  to  eat  more 
than  a  little  at  a  time,  and  at  the  end  of  the  meal — which  usually 
occupies  from  one  to  two  hours — he  hardly  knows  whether  he  has 
been  eating  at  all.  The  time  passes  agreeably  in  social  converse, 


Do  you  Drink  ?    Then  Napa  Soda  is  your  Tipple 


94  THE    INMKK. 

and  the  stomach  receives  its  burdens  so  gradually  and  imperceptibly 
that  it  has  full  time  to  marshall  its  forces  as  they  are  needed,  and 
thus  digest  with  ease  au  amount  of  food  which,  if  hastily  swallowed, 
would  cause  direct  distress.  Savages,  who  eat  with  their  fingers, 
are  always  greedy  and  rapid  eaters.  The  introduction  of  forks  in 
the  seventeeth  century  has  contributed  much  towards  a  more  calm 
and  refined  habit  of  dining.  The  poorest  club  conceivable  is  better 
than  solitude.  Those  whom  circumstances  force  to  board  themselves 
do  well  to  keep  each  other  company.  Two  or  three,  or  even  more, 
can  join  their  forces,  thus  providing  larger  variety,  greater  comfort, 
better  appetites  and  more  prosperous  digestion.  For  many  organi- 
zations, solitary  dining  is  slow  death.  There  are  those  who  can  bear 
it,  just  as  there  are  those  who  can  bear  vegetarianism,  abstinence 
from  muscular  exercise,  or  confinement  in  impure  air  ;  but  the  sug- 
gestions here  given  must  be  for  the  average,  and  not  for  the  excep- 
tions. And  yet  we  should  bear  in  mind  that  those  who  survive  long- 
continued  violations  of  hygienic  laws,  might  perhaps  have  been  more 
sturdy,  and  achieved  even  larger  success,  had  they  lived  more  in 
conformity  with  those  laws.  A  disadvantage  of  restaurants  is  that 
they  compel  their  patrons  to  select  dishes  by  the  name  on  the  carte, 
and  not  by  their  appearance  and  flavor  when  brought  on  the  table. 
The  great  objection  to  dining  by  a  bill  of  fare  is  that  we  cannot  tell 
what  we  most  desire  until  we  see  the  articles  of  food,  and  inhale  their 
savory  fragrance.  French  names,  with  high  prices  annexed,  are  at 
best  poor  appetizers.  This  is  a  philosophical  explanation  of  the  fact, 
that,  sitting  down  to  a  public  table,  we  often  study  over  the  schedule 
in  nervous  despair,  and  then  decide  upon  a  dish,  which,  as  soon  as  it 
is  placed  before  us,  we  find  we  have  no  relish  for.  Nothing  can 
redeem  the  life  at  a  public  table,  but  a  pleasant  circle  of  very  dear 
friends  to  share  our  meal  with  us,  as  is  the  custom  in  Paris.  The 
maxim  :  "  Chatted  food  is  ill-digested,"  needs  only  the  substitution 
of  one  word — well  for  ill — to  make  it  thoroughly  true. 

The  three  best  digesters  are,  sound  health,  a  good  table,  and 
pleasant  conversation  ;  but  the  greatest  of  these  is  conversation,  for 
it  can  divert  the  mind,  even  when  the  health  and  food  are  both  unsat- 
isfactory. In  the  charming  biography  of  Charlotte  Bronte  by  Mrs. 
Gaskell,  we  are  told  that  the  father  of  the  accomplished  authoress, 
on  account  of  a  weakness  of  digestion  was  accustomed  to  take  his- 
meals  by  himself,  apart  from  .the  rest  of  the  family.  If  that  had  been 
his  habit  long  it  is  no  wonder  that  he  was  often  compelled  to  give 
vent  to  his  attacks  of  hypochondriasis  by  firing  pistols  out  of  the 


THE;   IJMNER.  NtAN  95 

back  door.  The  frequency  with  which  food  should  be  taken  depends 
on  various  conditions.  It  varies  with  different  races,  and  in  differ, 
ent  climates ;  and  according  to  the  amount  of  labor  done  and  the 
quality  of  the  food.  This,  as  well  as  other  questions  of  diet,  must 
be  answered  by  experience.  The  custom  of  taking  three  meals  daily, 
which  is  so  generally  observed  in  the  United  States,  is,  on  the  whole, 
a  wise  one,  since  it  has  taken  its  origin  in  accumulated  experience  of 
many  years. 

It  is  not  well,  however,  to  observe  this  custom  too  arbitrarily,  for 
a  fourth  meal  is  often  a  positive  advantage,  even  in  our  climate, 
where  less  food  is  required  than  in  Northern  Europe.  The  Germans 
eat  four  and  five  times  daily,  and  in  England  very  many  take  four 
meals  as  regularly  as  we  take  three,  the  fourth  consisting  of  a  light 
supper,  of  thin  slices  of  bread  and  butter  and  a  cup  of  tea,  and  among 
the  country  people  of  substantial  pastry  and  meat.  This  fourth  meal 
is  taken  between  nine  and  ten  o'clock.  .Since  among  the  middle  and 
upper  classes  of  England,  the  late  dinner  which  begins  at  seven  or 
eight,  is  prolonged  to  nine  o'clock,  the  supper  and  dinner  come  very 
closely  together.  In  the  United  States  a  fourth  meal  is  taken  much 
more  frequently  than  is  believed,  both  in  city  and  country  ;  but  unfortu- 
nately the  materials  of  our  evening  entertainments  are  too  often 
unpalatable  and  indigestible.  On  the  ocean  steamers  four  or  five 
meals  are  the  order  of  the  day,  and,  except  by  the  seasick,  are  well 
patronized,  without  discomfort  or  injury.  In  rural  districts  a  lunch 
in  the  middle  of  the  forenoon  is  often-times  expected,  and  in  the  hay- 
ing .season  milk  is  drunk  instead  of  water.  Our  customs  are  not  so 
utterly  different  from  those  of  Europe  as  might  be  thought.  While 
the  English  eat  so  largely,  the  French,  who  are  separated  by  only  a 
narrow  channel,  are  very  moderate  at  the  table,  and  do  not  take  more 
than  two  full  meals  daily.  In  the  morning,  on  rising,  a  cup  of  coffee 
with  a  very  little  piece  of  bread  lasts  them  until  eleven  o'clock,  when 
they  take  breakfast,  and  at  six  o'clock  comes  their  well-cooked  and 
delicately  served,  but  not  over-abundant  dinner.  The  custom  of 
having  regular  hours  for  meals  is  peculiar  to  civilization.  It  is  only 
possible  where  food  is  tolerably  abundant  and  accessible,  and  is  most 
necessary  among  those  who  are  most  sensitive,  delicate  and  nervous. 
The  savage  can  go  for  days  without  anything  to  eat,  and  then  can, 
without  injury,  gorge  himself  like  a  boa-constrictor.  The  old  High- 
landers originally  had  but  one  meal,  and  afterwards  two  meals  daily. 
In  England,  several  centuries  ago,  among  the  "  great  families," 
there  were  four  meals  daily  :  breakfast  at  .seven,  dinner  at  ten,  sup- 

Ghiradelli's  Breakfast  Cocoa.     The  Best 


9(3  THE}    INNER.    N1AN 

per  at  four,  and  u  livery,"  corresponding  to  modern  "tea,"  at  eight 
or  nine  o'clock.  They  sat  at  dinner  three  hours,  from  ten  till  one  in 
the  afternoon.  In  Thibet  there  are  no  regular  meals.  The  family 
never  assemble,  but  "  eat  when  they  are  hungry,  drink  when  they 
are  dry."  I,ike  the  North  American  Indians  they  eat  out  of  a  huge 
pot  in  which  the  meal  is  boiled,  and  each  one  snatching  what  he 
wants.  The  Kisawahili  has  no  words  to  express  breakfast,  dinner 
and  supper.  Savages  seem  to  care  much  less  for  the  gratification  of 
the  taste  of  food  than  for  the  appeasing  of  the  hunger.  With  them 
the  pleasure  of  eating  is  of  negative  rather  than  a  positive  kind  ; 
hence  they  eat  rapidly,  voraciously,  in  order  to  fill  up  the  stomach  as 
soon  as  possible.  The  relics  of  this  habit  can  be  seen  readily  enough 
in  any  cheap  eating-house  in  New  York.  Eating  for  the  refined 
gratification  of  the  taste,  per  se,  is  peculiar  to  high  culture.  The 
civilized  man  who  undertakes  to  imitate  the  savage  in  these  alterna- 
tions of  fasting  and  feasting,  would  soon  bring  his  wretched  exis- 
tence to  an  end  ;  for  no  fact  of  hygiene  is  better  recognized  than  that 
after  very  long  abstinence,  food  must  be  taken  slowly  and  in  sma  I 
quantities.  The  longer  and  the  harder  we  have  worked  on  an  empty 
stomach,  the  greater  the  necessity  of  caution  at  the  next  meal.  Just 
as  it  is  possible  for  the  brain  to  get  so  tired  that  we  cannot  sleep,  ju>t 
so  is  it  possible  for  the  stomach  to  get  so  tired  that  it  cannot  digest. 
The  ancient  Romans  had  but  two  meals  daily,  dinner  and  supper. 
The  dinner  or  eprandium,  was  taken  in  a  standing  position,  at  nine 
o'clock,  and  usually  consisted  of  the  remnants  of  the  supper  of  the 
previous  day.  The  supper  or  coena,  the  great  meal  of  the  day,  was 
taken  about  three  or  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  This  consisted  of 
three  parts :  a  gustus  to  sharpen  the  appetite,  as  raw  oysters  on  the 
shell  are  used  in  our  day  ;  the  caput  ccena  made  of  a  variety  of  courses, 
and  the  mensa  secunda,  or  dessert,  consisting  of  pastry  and  fruits. 
On  these  dinners  enormous  and  fabulous  sums  were  expended. 
Heliogabalus  spent  $20,000  for  a  single  dish'.  (Elius  Versus  wasted 
$250,000  for  a  single  entertainment  to  which  only  twelve  guests  were 
invited,  or  over  $20,000  for  each  person.  It  is  stated  that  Sitellions 
spent  over  $16,000  daily  for  his  supper.  The  dinner  became  gradu- 
ally later  and  later  in  the  day,  and  thus  the  morning  meal  or  break- 
fast was  introduced.  King  Canute,  it  is  said,  first  established  the 
custom  of  four  meals  daily.  The  oft-asked  question  whether  it  is 
better  to  dine  in  the  middle  ot  the  day  or  in  the  evening,  must  be 
answered  by  the  occupation  and  circumstances  of  the  person.  It  is 
of  all  importance  that  the*principal  meal  of  the  day  should  be  taken 


INNER.   MAN  97 

leisurely  and  without  harassment ;  and  if  the  hour  of  leisure  that  is 
required  for  a  comfortable  dinner  cannot  be  found  in  the  middle  of 
the  day,  it  is  better  to  wait  until  later.  In  this  respect  the  present 
customs  are  just  about  what  they  should  be.  Business  men  in  the 
large  cities  dine  at  five  or  six  o'clock,  for  the  two-fold  reason  that 
the  middle  of  the  day  is  the  busiest  hour,  and  that  most  of  them  are 
so  far  from  home  that  they  must  take  their  meals  in  restaurants.  In 
the  olden  time  when  business  was  carried  on  quietly  and  on  a  small 
scale,  and  merchants  lived  over  their  stores,  it  was  easy  and  natural 
to  dine  at  twelve  o'clock  ;  but  under  the  new  dispensation,  the  cus- 
tom has  been  necessarily  abandoned.  In  the  country  where  toil  is 
easier  and  calmer,  where  even  in  the  haying  season  a  good  round 
hour  is  allowed  for  ''nooning,"  and  where  they  rise  so  early  that 
twelve  o'clock  is  about  as  late  as  four  or  five  is  for  the  residents  of 
the  city  ;  where  they  go  to  bed  with  the  chickens,  and  where,  further- 
more, there  is  comparatively  little  to  harass  the  mind,  in  the  morning^ 
at  noonday,  or  at  night,  it  would  be  absurd,  and,  to  many,  injurious 
to  postpone  the  principal  meal  much  beyond  midday.  There  are 
very  few  civilized  beings  that  can  go  from  morning  to  night  without 
anything  to  eat  and  not  suffer.  Such  prolonged  fasting  is  the  pre- 
rogative of  savages.  There  can  be  found  now  and  then  a  business  or 
professional  man  in  whose  arteries  the  blood  of  his  pagan  ancestors 
is  so  little  diluted  that  he  only  feels  hungry  twice  a  day,  and  there 
are  others  who  abstain  from  midday  lunches  because  they  believe  it 
to  be  a  virtue  to  go  without  eating.  For  the  majority  of  Americans 
this  mistake  is  a  most  fearful  one,  and  has  caused  innumerable  woes. 
Dyspepsia  in  all  its  phases,  nervous  diseases  of  all  kinds,  and  death 
itself  are  the  rewards  that  nature  is  continually  bestowing  upon  those 
who  refuse  her  bounties.  Abstinence  from  regular  meals  in  health  is 
a  vice  in  which  only  professed  gluttons  should  indulge ;  but  if  one 
must  lose  a  meal,  let  it  be  the  last  one  of  the  day,  and  not  the  break- 
fast or  lunch.  It  is  not  always  necessary  that  the  lunches  should  be 
liberal  or  varied  ;  for  many  a  few  mouthfuls  suffice — or,  at  least,  stay 
the  stomach  till  evening.  But,  as  a  rule,  it  is  well  for  those  who 
dine  late  in  the  day  to  take  a  substantial  lunch  in  which  meat,  cold 
or  warm,  or  fish  of  some  kind  or  nourishing  soup,  as  well  as  bread 
and  butter,  shall  be  represented.  The  danger  of  spoiling  the  appe- 
tite is  infinitely  less  than  the  danger  of  so  weakening  the  stomach  by 
long  abstinence  that  a  good  dinner  cannot  be  well  assimilated.  It  is 
far  better  to  over-eat  at  lunch  than  not  to  eat  at  all. 

I.  M.    7 


A  Napa  Soda  Lemonade  is  a  Luxury 


y8  THE    INNKR.    MAX 

CLABROUGH,  GOLCHER  &  CO.— We  are  largely  indebted 
for  the  good  things  of  life  to  the  rod  of  the  angler,  and  the  rifle  and 
gun  of  the  hunter.  Clabrough,  Golcher  and  Co.'s  store,  situated 
at  No.  605  Market  St.,  is  a  magazine  of  all  the  implements  used  on 
stream  or  hillside,  forest  or  plain.  From  the  branch  house  in 
Birmingham  where  John  Clabrough,  a  member  of  the  firm,  resides, 
they  receive  an  excellent  class  of  shotguns,  manufactured  there, 
which  have  met  with  the  approval  of  the  most  expert  hunters  on  the 
Pacific  Coast,  and  whose  popularity  has  been  steadily  on  the 
increase. 

Guns  by  the  celebrated  gunmakers  of  Europe  of  every  variety 
are  found  in  their  store,  which  presents  the  largest  and  most  com. 
plete  assortment  of  sporting  tools  in  San  Francisco.  They  are  the 
agents  of  W.  J.  Cummings,  of  Auckland,  whose  fishing  tackle  has 
obtained  a  world- wide  celebrity,  second  to  none  of  the  British 
manufacturers  of  angling  material.  They  are  also  the  agents  of  the 
blue  rock  pigeons  and  traps,  the  most  popular  inanimate  targets 
among  those  who  pride  themselves  upon  their  skill  in  pigeon 
shooting. 

Everything  that  the  lawn  tennis  player  needs  in  the  pursuit  of 
his  pastime  is  found  here  by  the  best  makers,  and  therefore  of  the 
best,  and  most  lasting  quality.  The  Golcher  hunting  boot,  wrhich 
has  been  recently  introduced  into  the  market,  is  an  ingenious  com- 
bination of  stout  moccasin  of  untanned  leather,  with  comfortable 
fitting  uppers,  lacing  close  to  the  ankle  and  affording  a  sturdy 
support. 

There  is  nothing  in  the  way  of  rifle,  gun,  pistol,  rod,  hunting; 
knives,  ammunition — all  that  those  who  enjoy  the  life  by  flood  and 
field  may  desire  that  is  not  found  at  "  Golchers',"  as  the  sportsmen 
designate  their  favorite  headquarters.  The  Messrs.  Golcher  are 
themselves  keen  and  skillful  at  the  hunt  and  angle,  and  a  specialty 
of  their  place  is  that  when  one  wants  to  go  a  fishing,  they  can  tell 
him  when  to  go,  in  what  quarter  he  has  the  best  prospects,  and 
advise  him  on  his  outfit,  giving  him  just  what  he  needs,  and  no 
more,  nor  permitting  him  to  load  down  with  useless  tackle.  So  in 
the  hunting  season,  they  keep  informed,  as  in  angling,  upon  those 
districts  where  a  good  bag  may  be  made,  what  lands  are  preserved, 
and  when  the  shooting  is  open  to  all  comers.  In  fine  Golchers',  in 
addition  to  being  the  repository  for  all  the  sportsman  needs,  is  a 
bureau  of  informatiqn  as  to  where  he  may  enjoy  the  pastime  of  his 
selection. 


INMER.    MAM  99 

Within  the  last  ten  years  it  has  grown  to  be  the  leading  gun- 
store  of  the  city.  The  relations  between  the  Golchers'  and  their 
customers  have  always  been  of  the  most  agreeable  nature.  It  has 
often  been  said  that  none  but  those  who  are  really  and  honestly 
fond  of  sport  themselves  can  hope  to  succeed  in  keeping  an 
emporium  of  sportsmen's  materials.  This  is  one  of  the  secrets  of 
the  prosperity  of  this  firm.  They  are  thoroughly  e.nrapport  with 
hunter  and  angler,  and  the  stranger  in  the  city  who  is  anxious  to 
indulge  his  outdoor  tastes  is  courteously  directed  where  to  go  and 
what  to  take  with  him,  having  also  the  assurance  that  he  is 
furnished  with  nothing  but  the'best  for  his  pursuit  of  fin,  fur  or 
feather. 

"COATES."'— A  cosy  resort,  suggestive  of  the  old  English 
inn,  is  "Coates,"'  as  it  is  generally  known,  its  proprietor  being 
Caleb  Coates,  a  pioneer  in  the  saloon  business  in  this  city.  This 
comfortable  and  unique  place  is  at  37  Sutter  street,  a  few  doors  below 
Montgomery  street.  Here  one  can  get  an  excellent  pewter  of  ale  or 
half  and  half  served  in  British  fashion,  and,  moreover,  excellent 
whiskies,  imported  and  American,  fine  brandies  and  the  best  brands 
of  wine.  The  snug  sitting-room  is  hung  with  quaint  pictures,  and  in 
the  winter  months  a  generous  fire  welcomes  the  chilly  guest.  At 
noon  a  very  bounteous  lunch  is  served,  and  at  all  times  there  is 
something  good  to  pick  at  on  the  table.  It  is  an  old  time  place, 
much  frequented  by  old  country  men,  nor  are  the  native  populations 
by  any  means  unmindful  of  its  comforts  and  its  merits. 

JOHN  H.  McMENOMY.— One  of  the  enjoyments  of  the  tour- 
ist in  San  Francisco  is  a  stroll  through  the  California  Market.  Here 
is  an  epitome  of  the  productions  of  the  State — fruits,  vegetables, 
poultry  and  meats.  The  curious  stranger,  wandering  among  the 
attractive  display,  will  pause  at  the  stalls  8  and  9,  where  John  H. 
McMenomy,  one  of  the  pioneer  butchers  of  the  city,  shows  what  we 
can  do  in  the  line  of  meat  supplies.  The  true  believer  in  the  comforts 
of  the  inner  man  is  not  he  whose  observation  is  confined  to  the  good 
things  of  life  as  they  appear  on  the  table  only.  The  genuine  gour- 
met will  scrutinize  the  raw  material,  and  form  his  judgment  of  the 
probable  results  of  the  cook's  art  by  the  appearance  it  presents  in  the 
butcher's  stall.  His  eye  will  be  pleased  indeed  by  the  array  of 
meats  which  is  marshalled  on  the  hooks  of  Mr.  McMenomy's  stalls. 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.    The  Best 


100  THE}    INNER    NIAN 

Here  are  beeves,  stall  fed,  fat  and  luscious,  which  suggest  juicy  and 
tender  steaks  and  the  incomparable  roasts. 

Those  who  boast  of  the  superior  meats  of  the  old  country — the 
beef  and  mutton — will  find  their  laith  shaken  in  this  popular  delu- 
sion when  they  gaze  upon  this  stall  life  picture.  There  is  nothing 
but  the  primest  meats  here,  and  that  means  a  good  deal  in  Califor- 
nia. San  Franciscans  are  nearly  all  epicures.  They  will  not  buy 
an  inferior  article.  The  result  is  that  Mr.  McMenomy  commands  the 
best  family  trade  in  the  city,  and  his  supplies  fully  justify  the 
demand.  He  keeps,  in  a  word,  only  the  primest  of  the  prime. 

THE  LICK  HOUSE.— It  may  be  truthfully  said  that  the  Lick 
House  is  a  household  word  in  the  history  of  San  Francisco.  Midst 
the  growth  of  hotels  and  fashionable  boarding-houses  in  all  portions 
of  the  city,  the  "  Lick  ''  on  Montgomery  street,  near  Sutter,  has  ever 
kept  the  even  tenor  of  its  way,  uniformly  prosperous  and  unaffected 
by  change.  Mr.  Kendrick  B.  Soule,  for  thirteen  years  cashier  of  the 
Lick  House,  recently  assumed  the  management  of  the  hotel,  and  has 
devoted  himself  to  the  improvement  of  the  restaurant  department. 
The  initial  effort  was  the  establishment  of  a  perfect  kitchen,  that  labor, 
atory  from  which  the  elixirs  to  revive  the  inner  man  are  to  proceed. 
The  result  is  in  every  way  satisfactory — the  Lick  House  kitchen  is  the 
ne  plus  ultra  of  kitchens,  a  kitchen  with  which  the  most  hypercritical 
chef  could  find  no  fault.  The  great  range,  which  runs  from  one  end 
of  the  apartment  to  the  other,  is  provided  with  all  the  modern  facilities 
for  cooking.  It  is  bounded,  as  it  were,  with  two  commodious  boilers 
on  one  side,  and  on  the  other  with  a  gas  boiler  for  eggs,  toast,  etc.  A 
long  counter  fitted  with  a  series  of  tanks  filled  with  steam-heated  water 
upon  which  covered  trays  rest,  is  used  to  keep  the  meats  warm  after 
cutting,  so  the  guest  may  never  have  to  complain  of  the  temperature 
of  his  food.  The  last  device  for  the  preparation  of  hot  cakes,  waffles, 
and  delicacies  of  a  like  nature,  steam  supplied,  stands  apart  from  the 
main  range,  and  large  kettles  for  stock  and  boiled  meats  are  also 
separate  from  the  most  important  portion  of  the  kitchen  outfit,  so 
the  chef  has  abundance  of  room  for  the  prosecution  of  his  good  work. 
The  tea  and  coffee  .urns  and  plate  warmers  are  steam-heated  by  the 
latest  and  best  mechanisms  for  this  purpose.  It  is  needless  to  say 
that  the  utensils  are  in  keeping  with  the  absolutely  perfect  kitchen, 
and  that  the  refrigerating  apparatus  is  all  that  can  be  desired. 

The  magnificent  dining-room  of  the  Lick  House  is  the  most 
artistic  in  the  State.  Mirrors,  panels,  floor  and  ceiling  through  which 


THE 


101 


the  soft,  mellow  light  falls  from  above,  have  been  visited  and  admired 
for  years.  Now,  with  the  present  facilities,  it  is  proposed  to  make 
the  restaurant  second  to  none  in  this  city  of  restaurants.  Meals  are 
served  a  la  carte,  and  the  charges  are  most  reasonable.  It  must 
not  be  assumed  that  because  the  dining  hall  is  fit  for  a  palace,  the 
kitchen  (which,  by  the  way,  is  so  admirably  ventilated  as  to  be  free 
from  food  vapors)  a  faultless  department,  and  the  cooks  persons  of 
acknowledged  skill,  that  a  guest  must  necessarily  wear  a  dress  coat, 
or  have  a  plethoric  purse,  to  avail  himself  of  the  hospitality  of  the 
restaurant.  By  no  means.  It  is  carried  on  in  a  purely  cosmopolitan 
spirit,  and  while  the  cooking,  supplies,  and  service  are  of  the  best, 
one  may  dine  at  any  figure  he  chooses,  bring  his  friends  in  any  num- 
ber for  a  fete  or  an  anniversary,  or  enjoy  his  meal  with  no  society 
but  his  newspaper.  In  a  word,  the  advantages  of  the  Lick  House 
restaurant  are  good  food,  well  prepared,  artistic  surroundings,  prompt 
and  courteous  service,  and  very  moderate  charges. 


Napa  Soda  Water  Cures  Dyspepsia 


CHAPTER  XIII 

CHAMPAGNE   LYRICS 

The  following  poetry  of  Champagne  has  prevailed  in  Ay  and 
Epernay  since  the  days  of  St.  Evremond: 


Ob,  the  wild-fire  wine  of  France, 
Quick  with  fantasies  florescent, 
Rapturously  effervescent, 

How  its  atoms  leap  and  dance  ! 

Floric  fount  of  love  and  laughter, 
Where  its  emanations  rise, 
All  the  difficulty  dies, 

From  now  and  then  hereafter. 

Through  the  happy  gold-n  haze 
Time's  gray  cheek  is  bright   with 

dimples, 
And  his  laugh  more  lightly  wimples 

Than  the  sea's  on  summer  days. 

Tongue  and  throat  it  makes  to  tiugle, 
Beats  the  blood  from  heart  to 
And  ascending  to  the  brain, 

Bids  the  spirit  forth  and  mingle 


With  a  world  no  longer  grim, 

But  serene  and  sweet  and  spacious, 
Where  the  girls  are  fair  and  gracious , 

And  the  Cupids  light  of  limb. 

Soul  and  sense  are  all  untethered 
Who  would  an  angel  when 
Clement  king  of  gods  and  men 

He  can  soar  so  grandly  feathered 

With   thy  plumage,  oh  Champagne? 
Bottled  gladness,  thou  magician  I 
Silver  beaded !  mist  Elysiau  1 

Ecstasy  of  sun  and  rain  ! 

Swift  and  subtle,  glad  and  glorious, 
Oh,  the  wild-fire  wine  of  France  ! 
How  its  atoms  frisk  and  dance' 

Over  fate  and  time  victorious. 


Less  for  thy  grace  and  glory,  land  of  ours, 

Than  for  thy  dolour,  dear, 

Let  the  grief  go,  and  here — 
Here's  to  thy  skies,  thy  women  and  thy  flowers, 

France,  take  the  toast  thy  women  and  thy  roses, 

France,  to  thy  wine,  more  wealth  unto  thy  stores, 
And  let  the  lips  a  grievous  memory  closes 

Smile,  their  proud  smile  once  more. 

Swarthy  Faleruians,  Massica  the  Red, 

Were  ye  the  nectars  poured 

If  the  great  gods'  broad  board, 
No  poor  old  wines,  all  but  in  name  long  dead, 


102 


THE  INNER   MAN 

Nectar's  Champagne — the  sparkling  soul  of  mirth, 

That  bubbling  o'er  with  laughing  gas, 

Flashes  gay  sunbeams  in  the  glass, 
And  like  our  flag  goes  proudly  round  the  earth. 

"  I  am  the  blood  Burgundian  sunshine  makes 

A  fine  old  feudal  knight, 

Of  buff  and  boisterous  might, 
Whose  casque  feels — ah,  so  heavy  when  one  wakes." 

"  And  I,  the  dainty  Bordeaux,  violets  ! 

Perfume,  and  whose  rare  rubies  gourmets  prize, 

My  subtle  savour  gets, 
In  partridge  wings  its  daintiest  allies." 

Ah,  potent  chiefs,  Bordeaux  and  Burgundy, 

If  we  must  answer  make, 

This  sober  counsel  take  : 
Mes  seigneurs,  sing  your  worth  less  haughtily, 

For  'tis  Champagne,  the  sparkling  soul  of  mirth, 
That,  bubbling  o'er  with  laughing  gas, 
Flashes  gay  sunbeams  in  the  glass, 

And  like  our  flag  goes  proudly  round  the  earth. 

Ay,  'tis  true,  the  typic  wine  of  France, 

Ay,  'tis' our  heart  that  sparkles  in  our  eyes, 

And  higher  beats  for  every  dire  mischance, 
It  was  the  wit  that  made  our  fathers  wise. 

That  made  their  valour  gallant,  gay, 

When  plumes  were  stirred  by  winds  of  waving  swords, 
And  chivalry's  defiance  spoke  the  words  : 

"  A  vous,  Messieurs  les  Anglais,  les  premiers." 

Let  the  dull  beer  apostle  till  he 's  hoarse 

Sent  his  small  spleen  and  spite — 

Fate  fill  his  sleepless  night 
With  nightmares  of  invincible  remorse  ! 

We  sing  Champagne,  the  sparkling  soul  of  mirth 
That  bubbling  o'er  with  laughing  gas, 
Flashes  gay  sunbeams  in  the  glass, 

And  like  our  flag  goes  proudly  round  the  earth. 


Indigestion  Dies  where  Napa  Soda  Lives 


104 


THE  INNER 

No,  such  blockheads  do  not  sip 
Of  that  most  delicious  wine  ; 

Soul  of  Love  and  fellowship, 
Sweet  as  truly  'tis  benign. 

No,  their  palate,  spoilt  and  worn, 
Craves  adult'rate  juice  to  drain 

Poison  raw  which  we  should  scorn, 
Beverage  fit  for  frantic  brain. 

Let  us  therefore  hold  as  fools, 
Such  as  now  feign  to  despise 

Those  balsamic  'molecules 

Horace  used  to  sing  and  prize. 

No,  such  blockheads  do  not  sip 
Of  that  most  delicious  wine, 

Soul  of  love  and  fellowship 
Sweet  as  truly  'tis  benign. 

Of  that  wine  so  purely  white, 

Which  the  sternest  mood  makes  past 
And  which  sparkles  yet  more  bright 

In  your  eyes  than  in  my  glass. 

Drink,  then,  drink,  I  pledge  you,  dear, 

In  the  nectar  old  we  prize ; 
Sparkling  in  our  glasses  clear, 

But  more  brightly  in  your  eyes. 


Come,  little  page,  serve  us  aright, 

The  crown  is  often  heavy  to  bear ; 

So  fill  up  my  goblet,  large  and  light 
Whenever  you  find  a  vacancy  there. 

This  wine  is  surely  no  Christian  weight, 

And  yet  you  never  complaint  will  hear 
That  it's  not  baptised  with  water  clear. 
Down  my  throat  I  pour 
The  old  Arbois ; 

And  now,  my  lords,  let  us  our  voices  raise 
And  sing  of  Silenus  and  Bacchus  the  praise. 


INNKR.  N1AX 


Chloris  and  Egle  with  their  snowy  hands, 

Pour  out  a  wine  of  Ay,  whose  prisoned  foam 
Tightly  compressed  within  its  crystal  home, 
Drives  out  the  cork,  'mid  laughter's  joyous  sound 
It  flies  against  the  ceiling  to  rebound, 

The  sparkling  foam  of  this  refreshing  wine 
The  brilliant  image  of  us  French  does  shine. 


Lift  to  the  skies  thy  foaming  wine 

That  cheers  the  heart,  that  charms  the  eye, 
Exalts  its  fragrance,  gift  divine, 

Champagne,  from  thee, the  wise  must  fly. 

A  poison  lurks  those  charms  below, 
An  asp  beneath  the  flowers  is  hid ; 

In  vain  thy  sparkling  fountains  flow, 

When  wisdom  has  their  lymph  forbid. 

'Tis  but  when  cloyed  with  purer  fair, 
We  can  with  such  a  traitress  flirt ; 

So  following  Beaune  with  reverent  air, 
Let  Reims  appear  but  at  dessert. 


When  on  the  fruit  piled  board, 
Thy  cup  with  nectar  stored, 

Commence  their  genial  reign, 
The  wisest,  sternest  faces 
Of  mirth  display  the  traces, 

And  to  rejoice  are  fain. 
As  laiighter's  silv'ry  ripple 
Greet  every  glass  we  tipple, 

Away  fly  grief  and  pain. 


'Tis  not  on  the  icy -topped  mountains  of  Thrace, 
Or  those  of  Rhodope,  thy  favors  I  trace, 

Not  there  to  invoke  thee  I'd  roam. 

No  !  Reims  sees  thee  reign  sovereign  lords  o'er  her  hills, 
There  I  offer  my  vows  and  the  nectar  thrills, 

To  my  soul  I  will  seek  close  at  home. 

Whether  Venus  like  rising  midst  foam  sparkling  white, 
Or  wrapped  in  a  mantle  of  rose  rich  and  bright, 

Thou  seekest  my  senses  to  fire, 
Come  aid  me  to  sing,  for  my  Muse  is  full  fain 
To  owe  on  this  day  each  melodious  strain 

To  the  fervor  'tis  thine  to  inspire. 

Ladies  Drink  Napa   Soda  for  Complexion 


THE    INNER    MAN 

Gray  time  shall  pause  and  smooth  his  wrinkles, 

Bright  garlands  round  his  scythe  shall  twine; 
While  sands  from  out  his  glass  he  sprinkles, 
To  fill  it  up  with  wine, 
With  rosy  sparkling  wine  ! 

Thus  hours  shall  pass  which  no  man  reckons, 

'Mongst  us  who,  glad  with  mirth  divine, 
Heed  not  the  shadowy  hand  that  beckons 

Across  the  sea  of  wine, 

Of  billowy,  gushing  wine ! 

And  though  'tis  true,  they  cross  in  pain, 

Who  sober  cross  the  Stygian  ferry, 
Yet  only  make  our  Styx  Champagne, 

And  we  shall  cross  right  merry, 
Floating  away  on  wine  ! 

Old  Charon's  self  shall  make  him  mellow, 
Then  gaily  row  his  bark  from  shore ; 

Wliile  we  and  every  jolly  fellow 
Hear  unconcerned  the  oar 
That  dips  itself  in  wine  ! 


Morning  bright,  Wet  with  new 

Thy  pure  light  Fallen  dew 

I  rejoice  when  I  see,  The  rose  sparkles  less  bright, 
The  fair  dove,  Freer  from  spot 

Whom  I  love  Ermine's  not 

So,  'tis  rosy  like  thee.  Nor  is  lily  more  white. 
She  is  fair,  Fair  Dupuis, 

None  so  rare  All  agree, 

With  a  waist  matched  by  none,  On  ambrosia  is  fed  ; 
By  my  hand  From  her  lip 

It  is  spanned  When  I  sip 

And  Eyes  bright  as  the  sun  ;  Nectar's  perfume  is  shed. 


Lily  on  liquid  roses  floating! 

So  floats  yon  foam  o'er  pink  Champagne 
Fain  would  I  join  such  pleasant  boating, 

And  prove  that  ruby  main, 
And  float  away  on  wine. 

Those  seas  are  dangerous,  gray  beards  swear, 
Whose  sea  beach  is  the  goblet's  brim  ; 

And  here  it  is  they  drown  dull  care — 
But  what  care  we  for  him  ? 
So  \ve  but  float  on  wine. 


THE   1XNER.    M.A^  107 

If  you've  ever  seen  a  party 

Relieved  from  the  presence  of  Ned, 
How  instantly  joyous  and  hearty 

They've  grown  when  the  damper  was  fled. 

You  may  guess  what  a  gay  piece  of  work, 

What  delight  to  Champagne  it  must  be, 

To  get  rid  of  its  bore  of  a  cork, 

And  come  sparkling  to  you,  love,  and  me. 


Thanks  to  the  bowl  Divine  Champagne, 

That  cheers  my  soul,  All  grief  and  pain 

No  care  can  make  me  shrink,  In  thee  I  gladly  sink  ; 

The  loam  divine,  All  ills  agree, 

Of  this  gray  wine  Away  from  thee 

I  think.  To  slink. 

When  it  I  drain,  Sweet  to  the  nose, 

Gives  to  each  vein  As  new  blown  rose 

A  link.  Or  pink  ; 

Source  of  pure  joy  With  gifts  that  ease, 

Without  alloy,  And  charms  that  please, 

Come,  dear  one,  fain  I'd  drink.  Come,  dear  one,  fain  I'd  drink, 


Despite  the  tongue  of  malice, 
No  poison  in  thy  chalice 

Was  ever  found  Champagne. 
Simplicity  most  loyal 
Was  ever  thy  boast  most  royal ; 

And  this  thy  wines  retain. 
No  harm  lurks  in  the  fire, 
That  helps  thee  to  inspire 

The  heart  and  spur  the  brain. 


As  the  vine,  although  lowly  in  aspect  outlines 
The  stateliest  trees  by  the  produce  it  bears, 

So  midst  all  earths  of  rich  generous  wines, 

Our  Reims  the  bright  crown  of  pre-eminence  wears. 

The  Massica,  erst  sang  by  the  Horace  of  old, 
To  Sillery  now  must  abandon  the  field ; 

Falernian  nor  Chian  could  ne'er  be  so  bold 

To  rival  the  nectar  Ay's  sunny  slopes  yield. 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


10*  THE   INNER    MAN 

As  bright  as  the  goblet  it  sparkling  fills, 

With  diamonds  infusion,  it  foaming  exhales 

An  odor  ambrosial,  the  nostril  that  thrills, 
Foretelling  the  flavor,  delicious,  it  veils. 

At  first  with  false  fury,  the  foam-bells  arise, 

And  creamily  bubbling  spread  over  the  rim, 

Till  equally  swiftly  their  petulance  dies 

In  a  purity  that  makes  e'en  crystal  seem  dim. 


ROEDKRER  CHAMPAGNE.— The  house  of  Louis  Roederer, 
originally  founded  by  a  German  named  Schreider,  was  content  to 
pursue  the  tenor  of  its  way  for  some  years — until  it  suddenly  felt 
prompted  to  lay  siege  to  the  Muscovite  connection  of  La  Veuve 
Clicquot-Ponsardin,  and  secure  a  market  for  its  wine  at  Moscow  and 
St.  Petersburg.  It  next  opened  up  in  the  United  States,  and  finally 
introduced  its  brand  in  England.  The  house  possesses  cellars  in 
various  parts  of  Rhiems,  and  has  its  offices  in  one  of  the  oldest  quar- 
ters of  the  city — namely,  the  Rue  des  Elus,  or  ancient  Rue  des  Juifs, 
where  the  old  synagogue  formerly  stood,  and  the  records  of  which 
date  as  far  back  as  1103.  At  the  corner  of  this  street  and  abutting 
on  the  Place  des  Marcher,  is  a  curious  old  house,  the  overhanging 
upper  stories  of  which  are  supported  by  huge,  massive  carved  buckets, 
decorated  by  figures  more  or  less  quaint  in  design.  M.  Louis 
Roederer 's  offices  in  the  Rue  des  Elus  are  at  the  farther  end  of  a  court- 
yard, beyond  which  is  found  a  second  court,  where  carts  laden  with 
cases  of  champagne  seem  to  indicate  that  some  portion  of  the  ship- 
ping business  of  the  house  is  here  carried  on.  One  of  M.  Louis 
Roederer' s  establishments  in  the  Boulevard  du  Temple,  is  distin- 
guished by  a  rather  imposing  facade,  and  has  a  carved  head  of 
Bacchus  surmounting  its porte-Cochtre,  while  the  principal  establish- 
ment, a  picturesque  range  of  buildings  of  considerable  extent,  is 
situated  in  the  neighboring  Rue  de  la  Justice.  Leading  from  the 
Rue  de  Elus  into  the  Rue  de  Vesle  is  a  gloomy-looking  ancient 
street  known  as  the  Rue  des  Beaux  Anges,  all  the  houses  of  which 
have  their  windows  secured  by  iron  gratings,  and  their  massive  doors 
thickly  studded  with  huge  nails.  These  prison-like  facades  which 


THE    INNKR    NIAN  109 

in  all  probability  refer  to  the  epoch  of  the  religious  wars,  succeed 
each  other  in  lugubrious  monotony  along  either  side  of  the  way  ; 
but  gain  admittance  to  their  inner  courts,  and  quite  a  different  scene 
presents  itself.  In  one  notable  instance,  looking  to  a  pleasant  little 
flower-garden  is  a  small  but  charming  renaissance  house,  with  its 
windows  ornamented  with  elaborate  mouldings,  and  surrounded  by 
graceful  sculptured  heads,  while  at  one  corner  they  rose  up  a  tower 
with  a  sun-dial  displayed  on  its  front.  In  this  and  an  adjoining 
house  the  canons  of  the  cathedral  were  accustomed  to  reside  in  the 
days  when  something  like  four-fifths  of  the  city  was  in  possession 
of  the  Church. 

Roederer  Champagne  has  long  been  a  popular  wine  in  this 
State.  The  agents  are  Macondray  &  Co.  with  their  office  at  427 
Market  street.  New  brands  have  been  introduced  here  but  in  all 
the  battles  of  these  sparkling  wines,  Roederer  has  ever  held  its  own. 
This  is  owing  to  the  intrinsic  merit  of  the  champagne,  its  purity, 
sparkle,  and  delightful  bouquet.  It  is  a  wine  so  highly  esteemed  by 
epicures  that  no  first-class  hotel  or  restaurant  can  afford  to  be  with- 
out it.  Tastes  may  vary  in  other  particulars  but  Roederer  will 
always  remain  a  prime  and  cherished  favorite. 


Do  you  Drink  ?    Then  Napa  Soda  is  your  Tipple 


CHAPTER  XIV 

AN  ATTACK  TPON  THE  WAITERS  OF  THE  OLD   INN— THE    ANCIENTS    INDIGNANT 

AT  THEIR  RECEPTION 


PUBLICATION,  since  defunct,  called 
41  Mirth,"  in  its  issue  for  January,  1878, 
contained  a  sketch  by  Mr.  Godfrey  Turner, 
which  at  that  time  was  much  appreciated  by 
the  frequenters  of  the  "  Cheshire  Cheese." 
It  was  a  thinly  disguised  attack  upon  the 
waiters,  as  it  would  seem;  but  as  so  much  has 
been  said  in  their  praise,  it  is  only  fair  that 
Mr.  Turner's  criticism  should  find  a  place  in  a  record  of  this  kind. 

A  LITTLE  LUNCH  IN 
GREAT  GRUB  STREET. 

SCENE  I. — Round  the  Corner.     Persons,  Micio  and  ^schinus. 

Micio — Well,  my  boy  !  Back  again  in  London,  eh  ?  Worse 
places  than  the  great  Metropolis,  eh,  you  rogue,  eh?  Laudabunt 
alii  daram  Lutetiam.  Give  me  London,  that  is,  for  a  permanency. 

^schinus — Yes,  after  all,  one  can  make  oneself  tolerably  com- 
fortable in  London  for  a  longer  spell  than  in  any  other  city.  We 
may  sometimes  wish  ourselves  away,  but  we  soon  begin  to  wish  our- 
selves back  again. 

Micio — Well  said,  my  boy.  And  we  come  back  again  too,  don't 
we  ? 

^Eschinus — Certainly,  sir. 

Micio — You  may,  I  think,  dine  almost  as  well  in  London  as  in 
Paris,  that  is,  if  you  know  the  right  places  to  go  to. 

jfcschinus — Ye — es,  perhaps  you  may.  But  there  are  not  quite 
so  many  to  choose  from,  are  there,  sir  ? 

Micio — Why  no,  my  boy;  I  grant  you  that  But  you  can't  dine 
in  all  the  good  places  at  once,  wherever  you  may  be.  So  after  all, 

112 


THE)   INNESR.   MAN 


you  see,  it  matters  not  whether  your  selection  is  from  five  good 
taverns  or  fifty.  Indeed,  I  think  the  fewer  good  taverns  you  have 
to  choose  from,  the  better  is  your  chance  of  finding  out  the  one  you 
would  like  to  stick  to. 

sEschinus  —  Undoubtedly,  sir. 

Micio  —  You  will  have  observed  that  I  use  the  word  (<  taverns," 
and  I  hope  you  will  forgive  my  not  calling  them  "  restaurants,"  good 
word  though  that  may  be,  when  it  is  at  home.  Our  old  taverns  are 
scarce;  and  as  to  the  inns,  where  is  the  one  in  which  a  gentleman 
could  think  of  taking  his  ease,  or  looking  for  his  warmest  welcome  ? 

sEschinus  —  We  have  our  club,  you  know,  sir;  and  some  of  the 
big  hotels  are  not  bad. 

Micio  —  Well,  well,  you  are  right.  I  am  an  old  fogey,  sir;  but 
I  can  fall  in  with  the  changed  customs  of  the  present  day.  Still  I 
like  old-fashioned  comfort,  and  so,  I  think,  do  many  of  the 
youngsters. 

sEschinus  —  I  can  answer  for  one,  sir. 

Micio  —  I  believe  you,  lad;  and  I  think  there  is  no  harm  for  you 
or  for  me  in  liking  a  good  old  tavern.  I  could  almost  say  with 
Walter  de  Mapes,  Mihi  est  propositum  in  taberna  mori.  This  was 
once  a  famous  street  for  taverns,  the  haunts  of  literary  men  whose 
names  are  now  historical.  Indeed,  if  I  am  not  misinformed,  it 
bears  somewhat  of  the  same  character  yet.  Is  not  that  famous  chop- 
house,  the  Sawdust  Box,  here  about  ? 

sEschinus  —  We  are  very  near  it. 

Micio  —  I  thought  so.  It  is  the  best  in  my  experience  of  such 
places.  Every  thing  there  is  honestly  good.  •  I  have  known  the  old 
Sawdust  Box  forty  years  and  upward.  A  plump,  round-faced,  fresh- 
colored,  jolly,  civil  little  man,  named  —  well,  never  mind  his  name; 
I  forget  it  though  I  remember  his  face  —  used,  to  keep  the  Sawdust 
Box  in  my  day.  Yes,  I  remember  him  as  if  it  was  yesterday.  He 
had  a  bland  propitiatory  manner,  and  would  go  softly  from  table  to 
table,  rubbing  his  hands,  and  saying  he  hoped  you  had  what  you 
liked. 

sEschinus  —  Something  like  wishing  you  might  get  it,  was  not 
that,  sir? 

Micio  —  Ha,  ha  !  very  good,  my  boy.  But  you  did  get  it,  sir, 
you  did  get  it,  and  I  dare  say  you  get  it,  just  the  same  to  this  day. 
Why,  here's  the  very  house  !  Not  a  bit  changed,  I  declare.  Same 
quaint  old  look;  same  heavy  old-fashioned  windows;  same  swing 
door.  Same  interior  too,  I've  no  doubt.  Bless  me  !  Do  you  know 

Ghiradelli's  Breakfast  Cocoa.     The  Best 


114  THE   INNER   N1AN 

that  great  Dr.  Walker,  and  the  famous  talker,  Jawker,  with  their 
illustrious  but  taciturn  friend,  Hawker,  and  many  other  celebrated 
wits,  frequented  this  house  about  a  hundred  years  ago  ?  It  is  a 
landmark  of  his  day,  a  memorial  of  our  splendid  literature,  my  boy. 
Do  you  feel  disposed  for  lunch  ? 

sEschinus — By  all  means,  sir. 

Mitio — Good  !  then  in  we  go. 

SCENE  II. — The  Bar  of  the  old  Sawdust  Box;  a  noisy  crowd 
drinking  thereat. 

Waiter  (pushing  through  the  blockade  at  the  door  of  a  room 
in  which  other  people  are  eating) — By  your  leave,  gentlemen. 

Cockeramstike  !  (  The  last  word  is  bawled  by  a  waiter  up  a 
narrow  three-cornered  wooden  staircase,  on  the  bare  boards  of  which 
is  a  greasy  litter  of  plates,  mutton  bones,  and  scraps  of  meat  and 
potato,  artfully  laid  to  entrap  the  careless  footfall. 

Short  Man — (who  is  having  a  long  drink.)  That's  my  opinion, 
I  say.  Of  course  I  may  be  wrong. 

Long  Man  (who  appears  to  have  many  short  drinks  and  is 
taking  another) — You're  as  wrong  as  a  trivet  upside  down. 

Waiter — By  your  leave  gentlemen. 

Cook — A  sing  moot,  and  two  followers  down  together. 

Stout  Man  (with  Big  Bag) — Have  you  heard  the  story  about  the 
elephant  and  the  one-eyed  wombat?  Yes?  Ah, then  you  have'nt  heard 
the  right  version,  because  I'm  the  only  man  that  knows  it,  and  I'll 
tell  it  to  you.  In  the  first  place,  perhaps,  I  ought  to  explain  that 
where  the  wombats  live  there  is  a  species  of  snake,  that  ain't  a 
rattlesnake,  but  is  something  of  the  rattlesnake  build,  you  know, 
without  the  rattle;  and  the  wombats  don't  like  this  snake  the  least 
bit.  Well,  when  the  elephants  come  down  to  drink— 

Waiter — By  your  leave,  gentlemen.  (Shouting  from  the  bottom 
of  the  staircase  to  the  top  of  his  lungs).  Cotherum  steak ! 
Botherum-foozlum  mash  !  (or  something  quite  as  intelligible  and 
euphonious. ) 

Stout  Man  (with  Big  Bag) — (Slowly  and  impressibly) — When 
the  elephants  come  down  to  drink 

Short  Man  (to  I/ong  Man) — That's  what  you  think  about  the 
matter,  is  it  ? 

Long  Man  (to  Short  Man) — Is  it  ?  Yes  !  And  if  you  knew  as 
much  about  both  men  as  I  do,  you  wouldn't  need  to  ask  me  what  I 
do  think  or  what  I  don't  think. 


INNKR    N1AN  U& 

Stout  Man  (with  Big  Bag) — When  the  elephants 

Short  Man — Then  you're  wrong. 

Long  Man— What  ? 

Short  Man — I  say  you're  wrong.  Do  you  suppose  I  don't  know 
what  I'm  talking  about  ?  I  tell  you  he  wouldn't  have  it  at  any 
price.  And  what's  more,  the  other  man  couldn't  come  to  the  other 
man's  terms.  I  mean  the  other  man  couldn't.  That  is,  unless  the 
other  man  could  get  some  other  man  to  say 

Stout  Man  (with  Big  Bagj— When 

Long  Man — My  boy,  you've  got  on  the  wrong  side  of  the 
business  entirely.  Now  just  attend  to  me  for  a  few  minutes.  I 
assure  you,  as  true  as  we  are  both  standing  here  at  this  minute — 

Stout  Man  (with  Big  Bag) — When  the  elephants  come  down  to 
drink 

Short  Man — I  shall  go  up  to  smoke. 

Long  Man — So  shall  I. 

Short  Man  ascends  the  greasy  triangular  staircase.  Long  Man 
follows,  and  knocks  down  a  pile  of  plates.  Great  excitement,  in  the 
midst  of  which 

[Enter  Micio  and  ^schinus.] 

Micio — Bless  my  heart  !  This  is  very  different  from  the  quiet 
old  chop  house  as  I  remember  it. 

sEschinus — Ha  !  Perhaps,  sir,  you  are  resting  on  rather  a  long 
memory. 

Stout  Man  (with  Big  Bag) — When  the  elephants  come  down  to 
drink,  the  wombats  clear  out;  and  one  jolly,  cunning  old  wombat, 
being  one-eyed,  and  in  mortal  dread  of  snakes 

Waiter — By  your  leave,  gentleman  !  Two  goes  of  rack 'and  a 
four  of  Scotch,  miss. 

Stout  Man  (with  Big  Bag) — And  in  mortal  dread  of  snakes 

Waiter — Fotherum-coozlum,  botherum  steak,  chop  and  kidney 
down  together  ! 

Micio — Will  you  kindly  allow  us  to  pass,  sir  ? 

Wit  of  the  Period — Pass  two  to  front  row  of  dress  circle.  Take 
a  programme,  gentleman  ? 

Charles  (his  friend) — Shut  up,  you  fool !  You'll  have  Chalker 
down  on  you  again  presently. 

Stout  Man  (with  Big  Bag) — The  one-eyed  wombat  being  in 
mortal  dread  of  snakes 

Wit — You  mean  steaks. 


A  Napa  Soda  Lemonade  is  a  Luxury 


116  THK    INNKR    N1AN 

SCENE  III. — Inside  Room.     People  Feeding. 
[Enter  Micio  and  ^schinus.] 

Micio — Here  are  two  vacant  seats. 

sEschimis— They'll  do. 

Micio — Waiter  ! 

Customer  (at  another  table) — Waiter!  Come  here!  I  didn't 
ask  for  a  sausage  with  my  chop. 

Waiter — Not  ask  for  a  sausage  !  Why,  I  took  the  order 
myself. 

Customer — I  know  you  did,  but  you  took  it  inattentively. 
Take  this  sausage  away;  and  I've  a  great  mind  to  send  the  chop 
after  it.  Here's  a  thing  to  call  a  chop  !  (turns  it  over). 

Waiter — What's  the  matter  with  it  ? 

Customer — Everything.  It's  as  thin  as  the  ghost  of  a  thread 
paper  split;  its  burnt  to  a  cinder  on  one  side,  and  it  has  scarcely  felt 
the  heat  of  the  coals  on  the  other.  These  potatoes  are  quite  cold, 
too. 

Waiter — That's  not  my  fault,  is  it?  What's  the  good  of 
blowing  me  up  about  the  potatoes  ?  Everybody  says  the  potatoes 
is  cold. 

Second  Customer—Waiter  \  Really  this  is  too  bad.  I've  been 
here  exactly  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and  now  you  bring  me  a 
steak  that  is  positively  raw. 

Waiter — Not  done  enough,  sir? 

Second  Customer — Done  enough  ?  Confound  it !  I  say  its  not 
begun. 

Third  Customer — Here,  waiter,  look  at  this  steak.  Its  nearly 
all  fat  and  grisle;  and  the  small  portion  of  lean  is  so  hard  that  I 
can't  get  my  teeth  into  it. 

Waiter — We  don't  have  no  complaints  from  other  people. 

Micio — Waiter,  I  say.  (To  ^Bschinus.)  This  is  not  the  kind 
of  a  thing  I  remember  here.  I  must  beg  you  to  attend  to  your 
duties  and  order  us  two  mutton  chops,  with  potatoes,  as  soon  as 
possible. 

Waiter — Two  steaks  and  mashed  potatoes  did  you  say  ? 

Micio — I  did  not. 

Waiter — Two  chops  was  it  then  ? 

Micio — That  is  what  I  said,  and  that  is  what  you  know  I  said. 
Be  so  good  as  to  go  and  see  about  them  directly. 

[Exit  Waiter,  rather  taken  down  for  once.] 


THE)   INNER    MAN  117 

Mitio — That  is  a  remarkably  bad  servant.  If  I  were  to  see  his 
master  I  would  complain  of  his  gross  inattention  and  incivility. 

s£schi?ius — To  tell  you  the  truth,  sir,  I  do  not  believe  there 
would  be  much  use  in  doing  so.  The  servants  are  masters  here. 

Micio — This  is  a  bad  beginning,  I  confess.  But  never  mind. 
We  will  make  ourselves  as  comfortable  as  possible  in  the  circum- 
stances. Suppose  we  have  a  salad.  I  don't  suppose  it  will  be  so 
artfully  compounded  as  at  your  favorite  resort  on  the  Boulevard  des 
Italiens.  Still  we  will  take  it  at  its  best.  Waiter,  a  salad. 

Waiter — Anything  to  drink  ? 

Micio— Certainly.     (To  ^schinus).     What  shall  it  be  ? 

<sEschinus — Really  I  don't  mind  what;  the  wine  of  the  country 
I  suppose — British  malt.  Bring  me  some  ale.  What  will  you  take, 
sir? 

Micio — I'll  have  ale  as  well. 

Waiter — Two  pints  o'  bitter.  And  a  salad,  1  think  you  said, 
gentlemen  ? 

sEschin  us — Yes. 

[Exit  Waiter.] 

Micio — I  hope  he  will  rub  the  bowl  with  garlic.  It  is  the  key- 
stone of  cookery.  Horace  must  have. been  clumsily  overdozed  with 
the  ingredient  when  he  had  that  flung  at  it  in  the  Third  Epode, 
addressed  to  Maecenas.  It  was  a  salad  of  some  sort  the  commenta- 
tors think  that  contained  the  criminal  flavoring  of  which  the  little 
man  complained.  Probably  'twas  moretum,  which  the  Romans 
made  with  cheese,  oil,  milk  and  wine;  though  that  was  rather  a 
plebian  dish  among  them. 

[Enter  Waiter,  with  salad  and  beer  which  he  sets  on,  the  table 
before  ^Eschinus  and  Micio.] 

sEschimts — That  is  not  ale;  it  is  porter  or  stout 

Waiter — Didn't  you  say  stout? 

sEschinus — No,  but  I'll  keep  this;  it  is  very  good. 

Micio — Mine  is  not  ale,  but,  as  you  say,  it  tastes  well,  so  I'll 
not  have  it  changed.  I  am  glad  the  salad  has  come  before  the 
chops,  as  it  seems  we  are  to  mix  it  ourselves.  What  is  this?  Why 
the  lettuce  is  quite  wet.  There  is  positively  a  great  quantity  of 
water  at  the  bottom  of  the  bowl. 

Waiter — I'll  pour  it  away  if  you  like. 

Micio — But  how  came  it  there  ? 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


THE:  INNER 


sEschinus  —  Pardon  me,  sir,  you  forget  —  do  you  not  ?  —  that  you 
are  in  England,  where  the  lettuce  is  understood  to  be  an  aquatic  herb, 
and  is  usually  treated  by  prolonged  immersion  in  a  tub  of  water. 
The  waiter  is  not  responsible  for  a  national  idiosyncracy. 

Micio  —  True.  How  long  do  you  think  these  plants  have  been 
in  soak,  waiter  ? 

Waiter  —  Don't  know  I'm  sure,  sir.  They  was  took  in  yester- 
day, and  I  suppose  they've  been  in  water  ever  since.  That's  how 
we  keeps  'em  fresh.  First  we  cuts  the  roots  off  and  stripes  away 
the  houter  leaves,  and  then  we  puts  'em  in  a  tub  till  they're  wanted. 

Micio  —  A  very  pretty  plan,  indeed.  I  regret  to  have  interfered 
with  it.  Perhaps  you  had  better  take  this  verdure  back  to  its 
diluted  mud-bath,  it  is  not  wanted  at  present. 

Waiter  —  Didn't  you  hask  for  a  salad,  sir  ? 

Micio  —  Yes,  that  is  what  we  asked  for  certainly,  but  you  brought 
us  a  rough  collection  of  ill-grown  vegetables  tumbled  into  a  bowl 
with  half-a-pint  of  dirty  water. 

sEschinus  —  Is  it  not  almost  time  that  our  chops  wert  ready  ? 

Micio  —  There  has  been  time  since  we  ordered  them  to  broil 
twice  over.  I  am  patient  whenever  cooking  is  concerned,  and 
would  always  rather  wait  for  my  dinner  than  my  dinner  should  be 
put  to  the  grievous  injury  of  waiting  for  me.  But  half  an  hour  is 
twice  enough  in  all  conscience  for  a  simple  grill. 

sEschinus  —  You  have  not  been  a  frequent  visitor  of  late  at  this 
fine  old  crusted  bin  of  illustrious  traditions,  have  you,  sir  ? 

Micio  —  No,  my  boy,  no;  I  never  was  more  disappointed  in 
my  life;  But  let  us  sit  it  out.  From  the  little  I  have  been  able  to 
gather  since  we  came  in,  the  liquors  are  the  only  good  things  left  in 
the  place. 

sEschinus  —  That  is  accurately  so.  The  drinking  bar  and  the 
bad  service  have  ruined  the  Sawdust  Box.  I  had  not  the  heart  to 
spoil  your  pleasant  recollections  of  a  dingy  eighteenth  century  pot- 
house, or  I  should  have  moved  an  amendment  to  your  resolution. 

Waiter  —  Stewed  Cheshire,  gentlemen.  (He  placed  toasted 
cheese  before  Micio  and  ^schinus.) 

Micio  —  But  where  are  the  chops  ? 

&schinus  —  We  asked  you  for  chops  nearly  an  hour  ago. 

Waiter  —  I  didn't  hear  you  say  chops.  You  said  sausage,  then 
you  wouldn't  ha\e  it. 

Micio  —  We  will  pay,  if  you  please,  and  go. 

Waiter  —  Let's  see.     What  have  you  had  ? 


THK    INNER    XI AN 

Mitio — A  lesson.  It  is  not  dear  at  two  shillings.  There  is 
half-a-crown. 

[Exuent  Micio  and  JBschinus.] 

SCENE  IV.— The  Bar. 

Stout  Man  (with  Big  Bag) — Wasn't  that  artful  of  the  wombat? 
(He  laughs  for  the  whole  audience  none  oi  whom  appeals  to  perceive 
the  humor  of  his  story.) 

Curtain. 


RATHJEN  &  CO.— Henry  and  Martin  Rathjen  wholesale 
and  retail  grocers,  tea  and  wine  merchants,  60 1  Bush  street,  corner 
of  vStockton,  and  633  Larkin  street,  corner  of  Ellis,  are  gentlemen  who 
have  had  a  long  and  successful  experience  in  this  line  of  business 
so  important  to  the  welfare  of  the  inner  man.  To  say  that  they  carry 
everything  in  the  first-class  grocery  line  is  to  give  a  comprehensive 
idea  of  their  stores.  But  it  is  necessary  to  add  that  all  those  things 
are  of  the  best.  In  the  matter  of  teas  and  coffees  for  the  use  of  fam- 
ilies, they  exercise  great  care  in  procuring  the  finest  qualities  of  these 
essential  articles  of  household  consumption.  Their  wines  are  pur- 
chased from  the  leading  houses,  and  are  put  up  in  parcels  for  families, 
and  from  the  cheapest  to  the  highest  grade  they  are  in  good  condition, 
and  faultless  as  to  purity.  This  rule  is  observed  in  every  article 
found  in  the  establishment  of  Rathjen  &  Co. 


Napa  Soda  Water  Cures  Dyspepsia 


CHAPTER  XV 

APPETITE  HEREDITARY— PROHIBITED  MB  ATS— SCIENTIFIC  DIVISION  OF  FOOD  — 
OPINIONS  OF  CELEBRATED  TRAVELERS. 


IVERYTHING  in  the  human  organization,  good  or 
bad,  is  subject  to  the  great  law  of  inheritance,  and 
with  the  reversion  and  other  modifications  which  are 
a  part  of  the  general  law,  are  liable  to  be  transmitted 
from  parents  to  children.  By  this  law  we  may 
explain  the  facts  of  whole  nations  who  eat  with  relish 
varieties  of  food  that  to  other  nations  are  so  repulsive;  the  decom- 
posed fish  and  flesh,  sour  milk,  are  by  so  many  preferred  to  these 
articles  in  a  fresh  and  pure  condition.  It  is  more  than  probable  that 
twenty  years  hence  children  will  love  tomatoes  as  naturally  as  they 
now  love  peaches  or  potatoes.  It  is  hardly  probable  that  man  even  in 
his  lowest  state  preferred  putrid  flesh  and  decomposed,  to  fresh  nutri- 
ment. The  theory  is  more  plausible  that  on  account  of  scarcity  or 
negligence,  they  are  often  obliged  to  eat  food  that  had  passed  into 
decomposition,  and  that  by  long  use  they  learned  to  prefer  that 
flavor  which  was  at  first  disagreeable,  and  that  this  taste  was  trans- 
mitted to  posterity.  This  theory  is  re-enforced  by  the  fact  that  it  is 
mostly  among  savage  tribes,  or  the  wretchedly  poor,  that  these  strange 
tastes  are  found,  and  that  under  increased  comforts  they  have  mostly 
disappeared.  The  preference  which  the  Icelanders  and  the  Irish 
peasantry  give  for  sour  milk  is  accounted  for  in  the  same  way;  for 
such  preference,  like  the  preference  for  high  game,  is  but  excep- 
tionally seen  among  the  intelligent  and  well-favored  classes  of  any 
country.  Not  only  taste,  but  probably  also  distaste  is  hereditary. 
With  enlarged  resources  and  refined  cookery,  enlightened  man  has 
gradually  abandoned  articles  of  food  that  were  once  his  favorites,  and 
has  lost  his  love  for  them,  and  it  is  surely  not  irrational  to  infer  that 
this  dislike  has  been  inherited,  so  that  now  we  almost  tremble  at  the 
thought  of  sitting  down  at  the  tables  of  our  ancestors.  Nearly  all 
people  reject,  even  under  the  pressure  of  extreme  necessity,  some 
one  or  many  articles  of  food  at  their  command,  and  the  causes  for 

123 


Indigestion  Dies  where  Napa  Soda  Lives 


124  THE}   INNER 

such  rejections  are  oftentimes  strange  and  unaccountable.  Supersti- 
tion and  religion  have  much  to  do  with  the  rejection  of  many  articles 
of  food,  especially  among  certain  savage  nations.  The  Kaffir,  like 
the  Jew,  will  never  eat  pork,  and  he  abstains  also  from  fish,  and  yet 
he  seeks  the  raw  flesh  of  the  ox,  even  the  most  disgusting  portions. 
The  Pacific  islanders,  like  many  other  savages,  are  prevented  by 
their  religion  from  eating  many  valuable  articles  of  food.  One 
worships  his  God  in  the  shark  ;  another  in  the  eel ;  another  in  the 
owl,  and  so  on  through  all  animate  nature.  The  Bast  Africans, 
though  very  fond  of  animal  food,  refuse  eggs  and  consider  cheese  a 
mineral  and  therefore  denounce  it.  Judaism  prohibited  pork,  as  we 
all  know,  and  the  religions  of  India  compel  vast  millions  to  practice 
absolute  or  approximate  vegetarianism.  Even  as  late  as  the  middle  of 
the  nineteenth  century,  we  have  seen  a  not  inconsiderable  number 
of  Protestant  Christians  abstaining  from  wine  for  conscience'  sake. 
On  the  festal  days  of  the  Roman,  and  especially  of  the  Greek 
church,  flesh  of  all  kinds  is  prohibited.  With  the  general  advance 
of  the  race,  and  the  evolution  of  freedom  in  thought  and  action,  the 
interference  of  religion  with  diet  has  been  gradually  reduced  to  a 
minimum.  The  L,laneros,  a  pastoral  people  of  South  America, 
despise  milk  and  butter,  regarding  them  as  only  fit  for  children.  In 
the  United  States  we  call  a  rabbit  a  delicacy,  but  a  negro  of  the 
West  Indies  will  go  a  very  long  time  hungry  before  he  will  touch  it. 
As  a  general  law  all  varieties  of  food  are  best  adapted  for  the  climate 
in  which  they  are  produced  ;  but  this  law  is  susceptible  of  very  wide 
modifications.  That  the  train  oil  and  blubber  of  Greenland  are  better 
adapted  for  those  regions  than  for  the  temperate  zone  ;  that  there  is 
a  certain  correspondence  between  the  fruits  of  the  tropics  and  the 
demands  of  the  system  in  those  regions  ;  that  those  travelers  best 
succeed  in  preserving  health  and  strength  who  measurably  conform 
to  the  .eating  and  drinking  customs  of  the  countries  they  visit — all 
these  statements  are  but  truisms  and  need  no  detailed  exhibition  of 
authorities  to  make  them  acceptible.  And  yet  the  history  of  the 
world  and  especially  since  the  recent  and  rapid  development  of 
modern  commerce,  shows  that  civilized  man  can  use  with  profit  and 
pleasure,  food  gathered  from  all  ends  of  the  earth.  It  appears  not 
to  be  well  to  live  entirely  or  mainly  on  imported  food  ;  and  none  long 
try  the  experiment.  The  inhabitants  of  the  temperate  zone  are  the 
most  fortunate  in  this  respect,  since  they  can  draw  from  ".e  colder 
zone  on  one  hand  and  tropical  on  the  other  ;  and  probably  without 
necessary  detriment  to  health.  There  is  no  satisfactory  evidence  that 


INNER    MAX  125 

the  fruits  and  condiments  brought  to  us  from  the  tropics  have  any 
other  than  a  pleasurable  and  beneficial  effect  when  used  with  reason- 
able caution  and  with  a  due  regard  to  individual  idiosyncrasies  ;  but 
the  desire  for  these  subs,  s  is  much  less  active  in  the  temperate 
zone  than  in  the  countries  where  they  are  produced.  Man  seems  to 
demand  and  to  bear  wider  extremes  in  his  food  than  the  lower  animals  ,* 
for  we  all  know  that  some  tropical  birds  and  polar  animals  die  readily 
if  great  pains  be  not  taken  with  their  nutrition.  It  follows  from  that 
the  products  of  the  temperate  zones  should  have  a  wider  applicability 
than  the  products  raised  only  in  the  tropical  or  polar  regions.  The 
inference  is  confirmed  by  experience.  Potatoes,  rice  and  other 
cereals  are  valuable  food  in  any  climate  to  which  they  may  be  carried. 
Similarly  with  negative  food.  The  universal  stimulants  are  tea  and 
tobacco,  and  both  are  products  of  temperate  climates.  Extremely 
hot  and  extremely  cold  climates  demand  oily  and  fatty  food  or  other 
carbo-hydrates,  though  perhaps  not  in  equal  quantity. 

Liebig,  the  father  of  physiological  chemistry,  has  made  a  divis- 
ion of  food  that  is  as  familiar  as  it  is  unsound.  According  to  his 
classification  the  heat  producers  will  least  of  all  be  needed  in  hot 
climates.  Experience  shows  that  they  supply  a  want  in  the  deserts 
of  Persia  and  Arabia,  of  the  herdsmen  of  the  Pampas  of  South 
America  who,  under  a  burning  sun,  feel  similar  if  not  equal  need  of 
oil  and  fat.  No  other  facts  than  these  are  needed  to  show  the  difficulty 
and  present  impossibility  of  solving  the  complex  problem  of  diet  by 
physiological  chemistry.  Baker  tells  us  of  an  Arab  sheik,  who, 
though  "  upwards  of  eighty,  as  upright  as  a  dart,  a  perfect  Hercules," 
had  daily  consumed  through  his  life  two  pounds  of  melted  butter. 
Baker  further  states  that  "  fat  is  a  great  desideratum  of  the  Arab," 
not  only  does  he  smeai  his  beard,  his  clothes  and  his  body  with  it 
but  he  eats  all  he  can  get.  Du  Chaillu  states  that  the  Bakalai  tribe 
of  Africa  have  more  disease  than  the  Apingi,  and  he  attributes  this 
difference  to  the  fact  that  the  latter  tribe  consume  more  palm  oil, 
which  in  the  absence  of  game,  constitutes  a  considerable  portion  of 
their  food.  He  further  states  that  this  tribe  are  exceedingly  fertile 
as  compared  with  other  African  tribes  and  rises  the  query  whether 
the  immense  amount  of  palm  oil  they  eat  may  not  have  something 
to  do  with  it.  Dr.  Livingstone,  speaking  of  the  Kalahara  desert, 
says,  a  considerable  proportioa  of  animal  diet  seems  requisite  here. 
Independent  ot  the  want  of  salt  we  require  meat  in  as  large  quantities, 
daily  as  wre  do  in  England,  and  no  bad  effects  in  the  way  of  biliousness 
follow  the  free  use  of  flesh  as  in  other  hot  climates.  A  vegetable  diet 


Ladies  Drink  Napa   Soda  for  Complexion 


126  THE    IIsTNKR    MAN 

causes  acidity  and  heartburn.  Burton  says  that  in  East  Africa  meat 
is  the  diet  most  prized,  and  that  those  who  can  afford  it  live  on  flesh 
almost  entirely,  considering  '  'fat  the  essential  element  of  good  living. ' ' 
He  further  states,  that  although  fish  are  abundant  in  the  rivers,  they 
are  despised  by  those  who  can  get  flesh.  The  Persians  live  on  rice 
and  oil.  In  Central  and  Eastern  Arabia,  the  date  is  the  food  of  the 
Arab,  the  staff  of  his  life,  and  chief  commercial  product.  Mahomet 
knew  its  value  and  he  commanded  :  "  Honor  the  date  tree  for  she  is 
your  mother."  The  Arab  of  the  Desert  of  Sahara  drinks  oil  as  we 
drink  coffee.  When  it  is  in  abundance  he  can  sustain  great  fatigue. 
Says  Richardson,  "  An  Arab  will  live  three  months  on  barley  meal 
paste  dipped  in  olive  oil."  It  would  seem  that  the  different  varieties 
of  the  carbo-hydrates  are,  to  a  certain  degree,  substitutes  for  each 
other.  In  India  and  China  the  leading  carbo-hydrate  is  rice.  In 
Central  and  Eastern  Arabia,  the  date  ;  in  the  Desert  of  Sahara  and 
in  Eastern  and  Western  Arabia,  Syria  and  Palestine,  palm  and  olive 
oil,  and  in  nearly  all  these  countries,  milk  and  honey,  and  liquid 
butter,  cocoanut  and  ground  nut  oil,  and  fat  and  lean  meats  of  various 
kinds  are  used.  In  East  Africa,  where  the  cucumber  grows  wild,  an 
excellent  oil  is  extracted  from  its  seeds.  Various  the  methods  by 
which  inhabitants  of  extremely  hot  regions  satisfy  the  demand  for 
carbo-hydrates.  In  East  Africa  the  people  chew  the  sugar-cane  and 
"sugar  attracts  them  like  flies  ;  they  clap  their  hands  with  delight 
at  the  taste  ;  they  buy  it  for  its  weight  in  ivory,  and  if  a  thimbleful 
should  happen  to  fall  upon  the  ground  they  will  eat  an  ounce  of  earth 
rather  than  lose  a  grain  of  it."  The  Mussulmas  of  the  desert  cook 
their  rice  in  fat.  In  Chili,  balls  of  grease  are  sold  in  the  markets, 
and  in  Egypt  nearly  everything  is  cooked  swimming  in  fat,  and  in 
Madagascar  traveling  companies  say  that  grease  is  mixed  with  all 
their  food.  In  Chili  sugar  is  also  much  eaten.  Hot  oil  as  well  as 
hot  gravy  is  taken  by  the  Arabians  of  the  desert,  and  is  given  as  a 
medicine  in  certain  diseases.  Tomson  says  that  the  principal  food 
of  the  inhabitants  of  Syria  and  Palestine  is  cheese,  figs,  olives  and 
sour  milk  and  that  almost  every  dish  is  cooked  in  oil.  In  hot 
countries  where  meat  is  scarce,  or  where  it  is  prohibited  by  religion, 
other  substances  classed  by  L,iebig  as  heating  food  are  used.  The 
nutritive  power  of  oils  and  fats  is  several  times  greater  than  that  of 
rice,  and  therefore,  when  rice  is  used  without  oil  or  sweets,  large 
quantities  are  required.  The  Hindoo  eats  enormous  quantities  of 
rice  and  butter  eked  out  sometimes  by  a  little  flesh,  but  at  best  this 
food  is  an  imperfect  substitute  for  meat  or  oil,  for  we  are  told  that  the 


THE   INXKR   XI^X  127 

quantity  required  by  those  who  live  mainly  on  rice  is  enormous,  and 
that  the  poor  Ryots  in  consequence  become  "  pot  bellied  "  and  pre- 
sent an  appearance  of  chronic  starvation.  On  the  contrary,  the 
Arabs  who  live  on  an  abundance  of  flesh  of  various  kinds  and  oil  and 
butter,  and  some  of  the  tribes  of  Central  Africa  whose  diet  is  similar 
though  varied  by  human  flesh,  as  well  as  the  herdsmen  of  South 
America  who  rarely  need  to  suffer  for  want  of  meat  or  oil,  are,  for 
savages,  vigorous,  active,  energetic  and  courageous. 

Extremely  hot  regions  not  only  require  meat  and  oily  food,  but 
enormous  quantities  of  it;  probably  not  much  less  in  some  sections 
than  is  required  in  regions  of  extreme  cold.  Of  the  gastronomic 
perfoimances  of  the  Hottentots  every  one  has  heard  ;  Barrow  states 
that  they  are  prodigious  gluttons.  An  ox  of  medium  size  was  dis- 
posed of  by  ten  Hottentots  in  three  days.  Probably  more  food  is  on 
the  average  eaten  in  extremely  cold  than  in  extremely  hot  countries, 
but  there  is  reason  for  believing  that  the  difference  is  less  than  is 
generally  supposed.  Like  the  Hottentots,  the  African  cannibals, 
and  the  Arabs,  the  Siberians,  and  Greenlanders  appear  to  be  greater 
gluttons  than  they  really  are  because  they  are  compelled  to  go 
hungry  for  many  days  at  a  time.  It  is  certain  that  the  Laplanders, 
the  Norwegians  and  Icelanders  are  not  remarkable  eaters.  The 
traveler,  Vambery,  says  that  the  Persian  pilgrims,  whom  he  met 
on  his  travels,  were  gigantic  eaters.  The  effects  of  extreme  heat 
and  cold  are  analogous  in  other  respects.  *'  The  drought  and 
heat  of  the  Llanos  act  like  cold  upon  animals  and  plants."  Says 
Humboldt :  "In  the  season  of  extreme  heat  boa  constrictors  and 
crocodiles  remain  torpid  for  weeks  in  the  mud."  Travelers  in 
Africa  confirm  this  observation.  Certain  diseases,  as  leprosy  and 
elephantiasis,  seem  to  be  common  to  tropical  and  polar  regions. 
They  are  found  in  Iceland  and  in  Africa  and  Arabia.  Ice  and 
hot  water  often  have  similary  curative  influence  when  locally 
applied  for  the  treatment  of  disease.  There  are  large  numbers  of 
people  who  prefer  their  flesh  and  other  food  when  it  has  passed  into 
a  state  of  decomposition  or  fermentation.  In  Burmah,  the  gnepher, 
a  huge  fish,  is  eaten  sometimes  in  a  semi-putrid  or  semi-pickled  state. 
The  herdsmen  of  South  America  seem  to  prefer  decomposed  meat, 
even  when  the  fresh  is  abundant  on  every  hand.  The  inhabitants 
along  the  Senegal  and  Orange  Rivers  prefer  decomposed  fish  to  that 
just  taken  out  of  the  water.  Even  in  Sweden,  stock  fish  steeped  in 
a  solution  of  potash  until  decomposition  takes  place  is  for  the 
Christian's  dinner,  what  roast  beef  is  to  Englishmen.  The  herds- 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


12»  THE)  INNER    NtAN 

men  of  Pampas  of  South  America  eat  decomposed  oxen  with  great 
relish.  There  are  some  few  among  us  who  prefer  old  and  rancid 
cheese  to  that  which  is  fresh  and  newly  made.  Even  in  civilization 
the  old  taste  lingers ;  traces  of  barbarism  are  not  yet  wholly  worn 
out,  for  even  now  there  are  some  who  prefer  their  game  high.  Fer- 
mented liquors  are  enjoyed  by  the  most  enlightened,  equally  by  the 
most  degraded ;  but  fermentation  is  a  species  of  decomposition. 
Putrifaction  and  fermentation  are  seen  to  make  some  alimentary 
substances  more  healthful  and  to  remove  injurious  qualities.  The 
juice  of  the  mandioca  is  at  first  poisonous  until  fermentation  has 
commenced.  Sour  milk  seems  to  be  less  likely  to  do  harm  than 
sweet  milk,  at  least  it  is  so  believed  among  certain  tribes  in  Africa  ; 
and  the  world  over,  there  are  more  who  drink  sour  milk  than  who 
take  it  fresh  from  the  cow.  Much  of  the  disease  of  the  world  is 
caused  by  the  food.  Between  savagery  and  civilization  through  all 
the  grades  this  law  applies,  and  that  the  scurvy  and  horrid  diseases 
of  the  skin  and  general  low  condition  of  many  of  the  savage  tribes 
are  caused  by  their  abominable  food,  travelers  will  agree.  The 
delusion  that  all  the  diseases  of  humanity  are  confined  to  civilization 
is  quickly  dispelled  by  a  careful  reading  of  books  of  travel.  Scurvy 
is  caused  by  want  of  fresh  vegetables  and  fruits,  and  is  removed  by 
abundance  of  these  articles.  The  raw  meat  of  the  Abyssinians, 
when  very  freely  eaten,  causes,  it  is  stated,  a  kind  of  insensibility, 
not  unlike  intoxication.  Almost  the  whole  Abyssinian  people  are 
afflicted  with  tape- worms  ;  it  is  their  most  prevalent  disease  and  it 
is  without  question  due  to  the  raw  meat  on  which  they  subsist.  The 
natives  of  Polynesia  sometimes  eat  sharks  and  gorge  themselves  to 
such  an  extent  that  they  vomit.  Their  flesh  is  dry  and  acrid.  It  is 
thought  that  the  excessive  disproportionate  use  of  the  date  among 
the  Arabs  is  a  cause  of  indigestion.  An  exclusive  fish  diet  seems 
to  cause  various  disorders.  The  experience  of  mankind  in  the 
selection  and  combination  of  food,  is  to  a  certain  extent  explained 
and  confirmed  by  the  sciences  of  organic  physiological  chemistry. 
If  man  was  forced  to  depend  on  his  knowledge  of  the  relation  of 
minute  chemistry  of  food  to  the  human  body,  he  would  starve  before 
he  could  prepare  a  single  meal ;  and  after  the  utmost  care  and  skill 
in  which  the  most  advanced  science  should  be  brought  into  requisi- 
tion, he  could  not  tell  whether  the  first  mouthful  might  not  instantly 
throw  him  into  fatal  convulsions.  But  after  experience  has  indicated 
to  us  the  food  that  we  need,  chemistry  and  physiology  come  in  very 
appropriately  to  explain,  in  the  most  interesting  manner,  the  laws 


THE    INNER.    MAX  129 

and  principles  thus  ascertained  and  to  guide  in  their  application. 
We  cook  some  variety  of  fish  in  oil ;  others  which  contain  sufficient 
fat,  are  eaten  alone.  In  our  puddings,  eggs,  milk,  suet  and  butter 
are  mingled  with  rice,  and  crackers,  and  bread  and  tapioca.  In  our 
salads  are  mingled  oils  and  eggs  with  lettuce  and  chicken.  Rice  is 
boiled  with  milk  ;  cheese  is  eaten  with  macaroni  and  green  corn  needs 
the  addition  of  salt  and  butter.  Buckwheat  cakes  are  eaten  with 
butter,  milk,  sugar,  molasses,  honey,  gravy  and  meats.  Everywhere 
vegetables  are  eaten  with  meats,  and  butter  with  bread  and  crackers 
with  cheese.  Pork  and  beans  is  a  union  of  opposites,  as  scientific 
as  it  is  popular.  A  modern  dinner,  beginning  with  soup  and  ending 
with  various  courses  with  meats,  is  in  the  main  consistent  with  what 
little  is  known  of  physiological  chemistry.  Soup  is  an  excellent 
preparation  for  more  solid  food,  and  raw  oysters  taken  early  in  the 
meal  serve  to  stimulate  rather  than  deaden  the  appetite. 

CALIFORNIA  CHAMPAGNE— The  earliest  effort  to  man- 
ufacture champagne  in  California  is  due  to  the  Sansevian  Bros.,  who 
began  in  1855  and  1856  in  Los  Angeles  to  experiment  with  wine  from 
the  Old  Mission  grape.  Their  first  bottling,  which  entered  into  many 
thousand  bottles,  was  a  partial  success,  considering  the  idea  of  per- 
fection which  prevailed  at  that  time.  In  the  following  year  they  bottled 
a  much  larger  quantity  which  proved  an  utter  failure.  They  were 
reported  to  have  lost  $100,000  in  these  operations.  Still  this  did  not 
discourage  them  and  they  sent  a  man  named  Pierre  De  Baune,  who 
had  been  their  foreman,  to  the  champagne  district  in  France,  there 
to  study  the  business.  He  remained  there  over  a  year,  studying  the 
wines  and  perfecting  himself  in  the  art  of  champagne  making. 
Returning  in  1857  ^e  applied  his  knowledge  to  the  California  wines, 
but  failed.  However  in  1861  after  leaving  Sansevian  Bros.,  he  had  a 
partial  success,  that  is  some  of  the  bottles  were  good  and  salable,  and 
others  failed  either  in  sparkle  or  quality.  At  this  period  his  wine  was 
handled  by  Crenoline  Bros. ,  who  afterwards  sold  out  and  returned  to 
Europe,  leaving  Mr.  De  Baune  to  pursue  the  business  alone.  Mean- 
while Mr.  Pierre  Sansevian,  who  had  a  vineyard  in  San  Jose,  continued 
his  experiments  in  champagne  making  up  to  1884,  but  without  any 
success  except  an  occasional  small  lot  which  was  not  duplicated,  and 
did  not  enter  into  the  trade.  In  1862  Arpad  Haraszthy  began  experi- 
menting for  his  father  in  the  Buena  Vista  ranch  in  Sonoma  County. 
Three  small  lots  were  made,  comprising  a  few  dozen  bottles  that 
proved  successful.  Then  a  company  was  incorporated  under  the 


Do  you  Drink  ?    Then  Napa  Soda  is  your  Tipple 


iso  THE:  INNER 

t 

name  of  the  Buena  Vista  Viticultural  Society  with  a  capital  stock  of 
$600,000.  An  additional  experiment  was  made  for  the  new  associa- 
tion of  a  few  dozen  bottles  which  was  very  successful.  An  attempt 
at  champagne  production  on  a  practical  scale  was  made  next,  and 
about  12,000  bottles  were  essayed.  They  were  treated  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  previous  bottling  but  proved  an  entire  failure,  and 
Mr.  Haraszthy  broke  several  dozen  corkscrews  endeavoring  to  get  the 
wine  out  of  the  bottles.  After  two  years'  experimenting  in  which 
there  was  a  considerable  loss,  Mr.  Haraszthy  resigned  his  position  to 
continue  these  experiments  on  his  own  account.  At  this  period  over- 
tures were  made  to  Mr.  De  Baune  by  the  society  which  he  accepted. 
His  first  bottling  amounted  to  nearly  60,000  bottles,  and  the  wine 
sparkled  so  violently  that  before  they  could  uncork  the  bottles  over 
60  per  cent  had  broken.  In  the  following  spring  over  50,000  bottles 
were  put  up,  but  these  had  to  be  uncorked  because  they  did  not 
sparkle  at  all.  In  the  next  lot  of  30,000  lots  there  were  not  more 
than  10  per  cent  available  for  trade  purposes.  The  others  had  to  be 
uncorked;  and  of  the  ten  per  cent  one-half  were  returned  to  the  cellar 
after  they  had  gone  out  to  the  trade  because  they  became  riley. 
These  experiments  were  continued  up  to  1 867  when  Mr.  De  Baune, 
feeling  that  he  had  not  made  a  success,  retired  from  the  management 
of  the  society's  affairs,  and  a  complete  outfit  of  corking  machinery, 
and  a  numbef  of  men  were  imported  from  the  champagne  districts. 
Those  were  paid  high  wages  but  they  failed  completely  to  produce  a 
salable  champagne.  The  society  next  brought  out  experts  from  the 
champagne  districts  of  the  Rhine,  who  had  been  educated  in  the 
industry.  After  three  years'  trial  they  too  were  discarded  as  failures. 
After  this  several  Frenchmen  were  given  an  opportunity  to  make 
champagne  for  the  society  with  the'  same  result.  A  party  of 
Swiss  were  tried,  but  they  too  failed.  These  experiments  were 
carried  along  up  to  1877  and  '78,  during  which  period  they  did  not 
produce  as  much  as  1,500  cases  of  champagne,  and  the  society  must 
have  lost  up  to  the  date  of  its  liquidation  in  1877  in  the  neighborhood 
of  $200,000  if  not  more.  Each  of  these  parties  upon  leaving  the 
Buena  Vista  attempted  to  manufacture  champagne  on  their  own 
account  but  without  success.  Mr.  Haraszthy  continued  his  experi- 
ments in  private  up  to  1866  when  he  discovered  the  method  in  which 
the  wine  should  be  handled  to  secure  a  uniformity  of  sparkle,  not 
too  great  nor  too  small.  This  first  success  was  made  in  December, 
1867,  comprising  about  3o  dozen.  He  was  at  that  time  a  member  of 
the  firm  of  I.  L,andsberger  &  Co.,  at  528  Jackson  street,  and  they 


THE    IXIMKR    MAN  131 

were  encouraged  to  begin  operations  on  a  large  scale.  Their  first 
bottling  was  made  July  6,  1868,  of  660  gallons  of  wine  which  proved 
a  success.  The  second  bottling,  made  July  8th  of  an  equal  quantity  of 
wine  was  also  a  success.  The  third,  on  August  ist,  the  next,  August 
1 9th,  and  the  next,  September  5th  of  equal  amounts  were  all  success- 
ful, and  from  that  day  to  date  the  champagne  made  by  Mr.  Haraszthy 
has  been  in  the  market  commercially.  It  must  not  be  understood 
however  that  all  subsequent  lots  were  a  success.  Far  from  it.  New 
troubles,  and  new  conditions  continuously  arose  despite  the  aim 
of  the  producer  to  make  the  highest  quality  and  many  of  these 
bottlings  had  to  be  opened  and  sent  to  the  distillery  as  their  lack  of 
sparkle,  or  the  inability  to  get  the  wine  clear,  unfitted  them  for  the 
wine  market.  Other  lots  again  after  being  turned  out  bright  as 
crystal,  in  a  month  or  two  afterwards,  became  cloudy  and  unsalable. 
It  is  only  within  the  last  ten  years  that  a  certain  uniformity  from 
year  to  year  could  be  obtained. 

In  1872  a  German,  named  Lottriz,  made  experiments  at  the 
Mission,  but  his  wines  were  never  known  to  the  trade.  In  1872 
Cutting  &  Co.  entered  into  partnership  with  a  German  chemist 
narned  F.  Schilfer,  to  manufacture  champagne,  and  met  with  a  par- 
tial success,  putting  100  cases  on  the  market.  But  three  years  after- 
wards they  abandoned  the  enterprise  with  a  loss  of  over  $50,000. 
There  is  champagne  made  by  the  natural  process  of  blending  wines 
together,  and  having  them  acquire  their  sparkle  in  the  bottle  by  the 
proper  fermentation  of  the  wine  itself  without  any  artificial  aid. 
There  is  also  a  process  of  making  so-called  champagne  by  the  gen- 
eration of  carbolic  acid  gas,  the  use  of  sulphuric  acid,  marble  dust, 
etc.,  but  these  methods  are  all  meretricious.  Natural  champagne  is 
necessarily  high  priced,  being  kept  in  the  cask  for  two  years  and  two 
and  four  years  in  the  bottle,  thus  requiring  large  capital,  and  large 
space  to  handle.  The  operation  of  making  natural  champagne  is  as 
follows:  The  wine  is  selected  from  either  different  grapes,  or  from  dif- 
ferent cellars;  and  mingled  together  to  make  a  blen'd  whose  purpose  is 
to  increase  the  quality  of  the  wine,  such  as  bouquet,  flavor,  taste,  acid- 
ity, body  and  smoothness  which  are  not  found  together  in  one  grape 
or  in  one  vineyard.  In  this  consists  the  art  of  the  manufacturer  by 
which  he  succeeds  or  fails.  It  requires  great  discrimination — this 
mingling  of  different  varieties  of  grape,  or  the  grapes  of  different 
vineyards.  Two  good  wines  brought  together  in  the  wrong  propor- 
tion frequently  produce  a  bad  wine,  but  no  two  bad  wines  however 
brought  together  will  produce  a  good  wine. 


Ghiradelli's  Breakfast  Cocoa.     The  Best 


132  THE    INNER    N1A.N 

The  greatest  difficulty  is  encountered  by  the  manufacturer  in 
creating  a  sufficient  sparkling  quality,  without  bursting  an  unusually 
large  percentage  of  bottles.  The  loss  by  breakage  and  leakage  at 
Haraszthy  &  Co.'s  is  about  16  per  cent.  If  the  wine  does  not  sparkle 
sufficiently  it  is  opened  out  and  sent  to  the  distillery  for  distillation. 
This  frequently  occurs  after  the  wine  has  been  a  year  in  bottle.  The 
blend  once  agreed  upon  and  made,  the  wine  is  clarified  once  or  twice 
and  then  bottled.  If  there  should  not  be  a  sufficiency  of  sweetness 
left  in  the  grape  juice,  a  small  amount  of  rock  candy  is  added  because 
the  sparkling  quality  is  dependant  in  a  greater  or  lesser  degree  to  the 
larger  or  smaller  quantity  of  saccharine  left  undecomposed  in  the 
wine  at  the  time  of  bottling.  If  the  saccharine  is  too  abundant  the 
bottles  break  in  greater  number.  If  too  little,  there  is  not  sufficient 
sparkle  to  satisfy  the  consumer.  The  wine  is  then  kept  in  a  warm 
temperature  for  a  few  days,  until  the  sparkle  and  breakage  declares 
itself.  It  is  then  removed  and  piled  in  lots  of  from  4,000  to  8,000  bot- 
tles, and  kept  thus  for  20  months.  They  are  afterwards  removed  to 
racks,  head  down  and  each  bottle  is  shaken  with  an  oscillating  motion 
everyday.  The  sediment  is  thus  accumulated  on  the  cork,  and  then 
the  bottle  is  removed  to  what  is  known  as  the  disgorging  shop,  where 
six  men  complete  the  wine  for  market.  One  brings  the  bottles,  the 
disgorger  removes  the  sediment,  one  sweetens  the  wine,  another 
recorks  the  bottle,  and  two  retie  the  strings  and  fasten  the  corks 
down.  During  the  period  of  violent  fermentation  there  is  a  pressure 
evolved  on  the  inside  of  the  bottle  of  about  no  pounds  to  the  square 
inch.  It  is  by  this  pressure  that  the  disgorger  is  enabled,  by  rais- 
ing the  bottle  upward  after  the  string  is  cut  to  eject  the  sediment  at 
the  proper  moment,  and  leave  the  clear  wine.  All  genuine  champagnes 
after  the  removal  of  the  sediment,  whether  made  in  the  United 
States  or  in  the  champagne  districts  of  France,  have  an  addition  of 
sweetening  added  to  them.  The  sweetening  or  syrup  is  generally 
composed  of  the  purest  form  of  rock  candy  or  crystallized  sugar,  dis- 
solved in  old  and  naturally  high  flavored  white  wine.  The  French 
usually  add  to  this  syrup  some  special  flavoring  of  their  own.  Kach 
bottle  is  hand  ed  about  250  times  before  it  is  ready  for  the  market. 

An  erroneous  opinion  prevails  about  the  age  at  which  champagne 
attains  perfection,  some  believing  that  after  3  years  sparkling  wines 
deteriorate.  Such  is  not  the  case.  Champagne,  if  properly  kept, 
maintains  its  sparkling  quality  with  full  force  up  to  and  beyond  20 
years.  Redding,  the  great  English  authority  on  wines,  claims  that 
the  best  champagne  he  has  drank  has  been  40  years  in  bottle,  and  a 


THE    INNER    MAN  133 

leading  expert  testified  that  the  best  wine  he  ever  drank  had  been 
laying  in  the  cellars  of  Ay  for  36  years.  Champagne  should  be 
drunk  from  thin  glasses  and  should  remain  on  ice  at  least  24  hours 
previously,  but  no  ice  should  be  put  in  the  wine.  The  Eclipse  cham- 
pagne made  by  Arpad  Haraszthy  &  Co.  has  obtained  wide  popular- 
ity in  the  United  States,  and  is  highly  esteemed  in  Europe  where 
this  demand  is  ever  increasing. 


A  Napa  Soda  Lemonade  is  a  Luxury 


CHAPTER  XVI 

THE  DIET  OF  BRAIK- WORKERS— THE  KIND  OF  FOOD  REQUIRED  BY  BRAIN- 

WORKERS— GREAT  THINKERS  USUAIAY  LIBERAL  EATERS— 

THE  DIET  OF  ATHLETES 

RAIN- WORKERS  — whether  literary,  profes- 
sional, or  business  men — need  the  best  of  iood, 
served  in  the  most  agreeable  manner,  and  in 
variety  and  abundance,  and  for  the  following 
reasons:  Labor  of  the  brain  exhausts  the  system 
more  than  labor  of  the  muscles.  According  to 
the  estimates  of  Prof.  Hough  ton,  three  hours 
of  hard  study  produce  more  important  changes 
of  tissue  than  a  whole  day  of  muscular  labor. 
Whether  this  statement  is  mathematically  accurate  or  not,  we  do 
certainly  know  by  experience  that  a  few  hours  of  mental  labor  is 
more  exhaustive  than  a  whole  day  of  muscular  labor  to  those  who 
are  accustomed  to  such  toil.  No  literary  man  can  spend  as  many 
hours  at  his  .work  as  the  day  laborer.  While  the  mason,  the  car^ 
penter  and  the  haymaker  work  their  ten  hours  a  day  with  only 
moderate  fatigue,  the  professional  man  is  wearied  by  three  hours  or 
four  hours  of  severe  consecutive  thought.  This  exhaustion  that  we 
feel  after  hard  study  is  the  result  and  concomitant  of  the  waste  of 
tissue.  This  waste  of  tissue  is  supplied  by  food.  If  the  theory  of 
the  correlation  and  conservation  of  forces  be  carried  to  its  logical 
conclusion,  it  would  seem  that  for  every  mental  act  there  is  a 
corresponding  expenditure  of  force  which  bears  a  direct  ratio  to  the 
thought  involved,  and  that  unless  the  proper  force  is  supplied,  thought 
becomes  impossible  just  as  steam  is  impossible  without  heat,  or 
motion  without  some  force  to  produce  that  motion.  Phosphorus, 
which  is  a  prominent  ingredient  of  the  brain,  is  deposited  in  the 
urine  after  mental  labor,  and  recent  experiments  have  shown  that 
by  the  chemical  examination  of  these  phosphates  deposited,  it  is 
possible  to  determine  whether  an  individual  has  been  chiefly  using 
his  brain  or  muscles.  That  the  brain  is  the  organ  of  mind  is  now 

134 


INNER   MAN 

as  well  established  as  any  fact  of  science.  The  brain,  being  the 
noblest  organ  of  the  body,  receives  a  greater  proportional  amount  of 
blood  than  any  other  part  and  is  of  course  correspondingly  affected 
by  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  nutrition.  It  has  been  estimated 
that  one-fifth  of  the  blood  goes  to  the  brain,  though  its  average  weight 
is  not  more  than  fifty  ounces  or  about  one  fortieth  the  weight  of  the 
body.  Brain-workers  as  a  class  are  more  active  than  mechanics  or 
laborers.  The  literary  man  need  never  be  idle,  for  his  thinking 
powers — the  tools  of  his  trade — are  always  at  hand.  Bulwer  in  his 
Caxtoniana  mentions  this  fact  as  a  great  advantage  that  the  literary 
man  has  over  all  others.  The  mechanic  has  a  definite  task  assigned 
for  certain  hours  and  when  that  is  over  he  feels  free  to  rest.  On  the 
other  hand,  the  powers  of  thought  and  composition  are  only  inter- 
rupted by  sleep,  and  the  intensity  of  the  labor  is  measured  by  our 
mental  discipline  and  powers  of  endurance.  Brain-workers  exercise 
more  or  less  all  the  other  organs  of  the  body  as  well  as  the  brain. 
Even  the  most  secluded  book-worm  must  use  his  muscles  to  a  greater 
or  less  extent  and  the  great  majority  of  literary  and  professional 
men  are  forced  to  take  systematic  and  vigorous  exercise  in  order  to 
keep  their  brains  in  good  working  order.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
uneducated  and  laboring  classes,  while  they  toil  with  their  hands  as 
their  daily  necessities  require,  are  apt  to  let  their  brains  lie  idle  and 
thus  the  most  important  part  of  their  nature  undergoes  comparatively 
little  change  except  that  which  comes  from  time  and  disuse.  If  the 
brain  could  be  used  exclusively  without  any  exercise  of  the  muscles 
then  the  diet  of  brain-workers  might  be  pretty  exclusively  confined 
to  those  articles  which  contain  fat,  salts  and  phosphorus  of  which 
the  brain  is  composed.  But  it  is  impossible  to  live  by  the  brain 
alone ;  hence  the  necessity  of  a  wide  variety  of  food  for  the  brain- 
working  classes,  of  a  quantity  and  quality  adapted  to  nourish  the 
whole  body  with  special  reference  to  the  nervous  system. 

The  best  food  for  the  brain  is  fat  and  lean  meat,  eggs  and  the 
cereals. 

It  is  now  a  matter  of  fact  that  brain- workers  eat  a  better  quality 
and  larger  quantity  of  food  than  mechanics  and  laborers.  How  is 
it  with  the  different  nationalities  ?  We  have  seen  that  the  ruling 
people  of  the  world,  who  have  from  time  to  time  shaped  the  destiny 
of  humanity,  have  always,  so  far  as  can  be  ascertained,  been  liberal 
feeders.  This  remark  applies,  of  course,  only  to  the  ruling  classes 
in  these  nationalities  and  not  to  the  slave  or  peasant  class  who  lived 
with  them,  but  were  not  of  them.  But  of  the  patrician  or  governing 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


13*  THE   INNER 

orders  of  society — the  leaders  of  the  world  iu  legislation,  in  war,  in 
commerce,  in  science  and  literature — it  is  pre-eminently  true.  The 
dominant  classes  among  the  Babylonians,  the  Persians  and  especially 
the  Romans  were  free  and  luxurious  in  their  habits  of  eating  although 
in  those  days  there  was  less  variety  of  food  than  at  present.  The 
Greeks,  the  most  intellectual  of  ancient  nations,  were  formidable 
eaters  and  their  repasts  were  greatly  prolonged.  Of  the  Romans,  it 
has  been  said,  that  no  people  were  ever  so  devoted  to  the  pleasures 
of  the  table.  Among  modern  nations  the  greatest  eaters  are  the 
English,  the  Germans  and  the  Americans — the  ruling  people  of  our 
civilization.  The  diet  of  the  Spaniards  and  Italians  is  notably  less 
and  substantial  than  that  of  the  English  and  Germans,  just  as  their 
brains  are  less  active  and  original. 

Our  standards,  by  which  we  measure  nations  and  individuals, 
are  too  low  and  too  narrow.  One  protests  against  the  degrading 
spirit  of  materialism  that  would  estimate  a  man  by  his  weight  on 
the  scales  or  by  the  number  of  years  that  it  takes  him  to  rust  out ; 
as  if  the  human  mind,  with  all  its  wonderous  capacities,  was  created 
only  to  be  imprisoned  as  long  as  possible  in  a  gross  tabernacle  of 
flesh  and  nations  were  to  be  estimated,  not  by  the  thoughts  they 
evolve  or  the  deeds  of  glory  and  usefulness  they  accomplish,  but  by 
the  amount  of  adipose  tissue  their  indolence  enables  them  to  hoard, 
or  by  the  length  of  time  it  takes  them  to  die. 

Even  the  most  ignorant  hog-raisers  studiously  consider  the 
quality  as  well  as  the  quantity  of  pork  that  the  different  kinds  of 
feed  produce.  And  shall  hygienists,  in  their  estimate  of  the  effects 
of  diet  on  humanity,  only  look  at  the  number  of  pounds,  avoirdupois, 
that  result  from  the  different  systems  or  the  number  of  years  that  the 
body  can  endure  them  ?  We  argue  that  because  the  porters  of  the 
East,  the  native  Hindoos,  the  Chinese  and  the  Irish  peasantry  eat 
little  or  no  meat  and  are  well  and  muscular  and  capable  of  a  good 
measure  of  physical  endurance  ;  therefore,  all  people  in  all  climates 
and  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  should  be  vegetarians,  and  thus  the 
world  would  be  much  better  than  it  now  is.  The  flaw  in  this 
reasoning  is  that  it  takes  too  low  and  material  a  view  of  humanity 
and  ignores  entirely  the  fact  that  although  the  body  can  be  sustained 
and  kept  from  dissolution  for  a  considerable  period  on  simple  fruits, 
cereals  and  the  like,  yet  in  the  history  of  the  world,  nothing  very 
great  or  good  has  ever  been  bequeathed  to  humanity  by  a  nation  of 
vegetarians.  With  some  exceptions  the  same  facts  will  apply  to 
individuals.  The  great  majority  of  the  leading  thinkers  and  actors 


INNKR    NIAM  137 

of  tlie  world — the  philosophers,  writers,  orators,  legislators,  warriors^ 
inventors  and  creators  of  new  eras  in  every  department  of  human 
thought — have  fed  their  brains  with  a  greater  or  less  abundance 
and  variety  of  animal  as  well  as  vegetable  food.  We  have  in 
biography  and  general  observation  sufficient  data  from  which  to 
form  a  satisfactory  and  reliable  opinion.  Goethe  was  a  vigorous 
performer  at  the  table  and  even  to  an  active  old  age  retained  his 
fondness  for  good  dishes.  Says  Lewes,  his  biographer,  "His 
appetite  was  immense  ;  even  on  days  when  he  complained  of  not 
being  hungry  he  ate  much  more  than  most  men.  Puddings,  sweets 
and  cakes  were  always  welcome.  He  was  fond  of  his  wine,  and 
drank  daily  his  two  or  three  bottles." 

On  this  diet  and  amid  great  literary  activity  prolonged  to 
extreme  old  age,  he  lived  to  see  his  eighty-third  year.  Of  Peter 
the  Great,  Marmontal  says,  that  "  He  dined  at  eleven  o'clock  and 
supped  at  eight ;  an  astonishing  eater  and  drinker — two  bottles  of 
beer,  the  same  quantity  of  wine,  half  a  bottle  and  sometimes  a  whole 
one  of  brandy,  at  each  of  his  two  meals  were  scarcely  sufficient 
for  him — without  reckoning  the  liquors  and  refreshments  that  he 
swallowed  at  intervals. "  Studying  with  greater  or  less  minuteness 
the  biographies  of  nearly  one  thousand  of  the  greatest  thinkers  of  all 
nations  and  ages,  you  find  that  aside  from  religious  enthusiasts  of 
some  of  the  ancient  philosophers  who  led  very  calm  inactive  lives, 
very  few  were  known  to  be  abstemious. 

Dr.  Johnson  was  a  gormandizer,  and  when  indulging  in  his 
favorite  dishes,  this  Great  Mogul  of  literature  displayed  his  eager- 
ness by  manifestations  of  satisfaction  that  are  supposed  to  be  peculiar 
to  children  and  some  of  the  lower  animals.  When  Charles  Lamb 
was  boarding,  he  sometimes  invited  friends  to  dine  with  him,  paying 
the  landlady  a  small  sum.  He  observed  that  when  Wordsworth 
dined  with  him,  the  landlady  charged  a  six-pence  more,  and  one  day. 
remonstrated  with  her  on  the  injustice  of  such  discriminations,  at 
the  same  time  adding  that  Wordsworth  was  a  great  poet.  "  Dont 
know  about  the  poet, ' '  replied  the  landlady, 4 '  but  I  know  he  is  a  great 
eater."  The  popular  conception  that  those  who  think  much,  eat 
little,  is  derived  from  the  twofold  fact  that  some  of  the  great  philos- 
ophers have  been  comparatively  abstemious,  and  from  the  fact  that 
nearly  all  hard  brain-workers  care  little  for  their  meals  when  they  are 
in  the  midst  of  severe  tasks.  In  great  crises  they  abstain  perhaps  for 
several  days,  as  did  Elliott,  the  defender  of  Gibraltar,  but  pay-day 
comes,  and  they  must  replenish  their  wasted  tissues  or  suffer  the 


Napa  Soda  Water  Cures  Dyspepsia 


138  THE   INNER    IVLAN 

penalty.  There  is  little  doubt  that  some  authors  have  shortened 
their  lives  by  habitual  underfeeding.  One  can  best  arrive  at  the 
truth  in  this  matter  by  comparing  different  bodies  or  classes  of  men, 
and  not  by  selecting  individual  cases.  Students  in  academies  and 
colleges,  provided  they  are  in  good  health,  study  faithfully,  and  do 
not  exhaust  themselves  by  vices,  eat  more  than  young  men  of  sim- 
ilar ages,  in  ships,  and  behind  the  plow,  and  far  more  heartily  than 
mechanics  and  artisans.  None  who  board  students,  whether  aca- 
demical, collegiate  or  professional,  ever  regard  them  as  light  eaters. 
Those  exceptions  who  worry  or  fret  themselves  into  nervous  debility, 
or  who  destroy  themselves  by  vices,  only  prove  the  rule.  Clergymen 
are  also  large  eaters.  Whatever  their  theories  may  be,  they  practically 
acknowledge  that  those  who  work  with  their  brains  need  better 
nourishment  than  those  who  allow  their  intellects  to  be  idle. 

It  is  possible  for  some  temperaments  to  study  hard,  for  a  limited 
season,  on  a  spare  diet.  There  have  been  and  are  now  hard  students 
in  our  colleges  who,  either  from  necessity  or  more  likely  from 
mistaken  notions  of  hygiene,  'restrict  themselves  to  a  meager  and 
unsatisfying  allowance.  Witn  all  such  persons  the  evil  result  that  • 
must  follow  such  a  course,  as  surely  as  night  follows  day,  is  surely 
a  question  of  time.  There  are  those  whose  constitutions  are  so 
hardy,  whose  reserve  powers  are  so  abundant,  that  they  can  live 
for  a  considerable  time  on  their  capital.  They  can  rise  early  and  sit 
up  late,  and  toil  hard  over  their  books,  achieving  the  highest  success 
in  scholarship  and  literature,  on  an  insufficient  and  unnutritious  diet. 
But  pay-day  must  come  with  them  just  as  surely  as  with  the  poorest 
and  feeblest,  only  it  may  be  longer  deferred. 

To  recapitulate  in  a  few  words:  the  diet  of  brain- workers  should 
be  of  a  large  variety,  delicately  served,  abundantly  nutritious,  of 
which  fresh  meat,  lean  and  fat,  should  be  a  prominent  constituent. 
In  vacations,  or  whenever  it  is  desired  to  rest  the  brain,  fish  may,  to 
a  certain  extent  take  the  place  of  meat.  We  should  select  those 
articles  that  are  most  agreeable  to  our  individual  tastes,  and,  so  far 
as  possible,  we  should  take  our  meals  amid  pleasant  social  surround- 
ings. In  great  crises  that  call  for  unusual  exertion,  we  should  rest 
the  stomach,  that  for  the  time  the  brain  may  work  the  harder ;  but 
the  deficiency  of  nutrition  ought  always  to  be  supplied  in  the  first 
interval  of  repose. 

In  athletic  training  the  object  is  to  reduce  the  fat,  increase  the 
size  and  hardness  of  the  muscles,  and  the  power  of  endurance. 
Trainers  have  experimented  with  a  variety  of  systems  of  diet  in 


THE    INNER    N1AN  139 

order  to  see  what  was  best  adapted  to  co-operate  with  severe  muscular 
exercise,  and  regular  habits  to  secure  their  ends.  It  has  been  found 
that  the  best  bill  of  fare  for  athletes  of  all  kind — gymnasts,  oarsmen, 
etc.,  during  training,  contains  the  following  articles: 

Lean  and  rare  beef  or  mutton. 

Stale  flour  bread. 

Potatoes  and  other  vegetables  in  moderate  quantities. 

Tea,  coffee,  and  beer  or  wine  in  very  moderate  quantities. 

This  diet  table,  it  will  be  observed,  contains  little  or  no  fat,  and 
little  starch  or  sugar,  and  therefore  is  not  calculated  to  feed  the  fatty 
tissue.  Its  leading  element  is  beef  and  mutton.  Between  beef  and 
mutton  there  is  little  to  choose.  The  quantity  of  tea  and  coffee 
allowed  is  always  limited — usually  not  more  than  a  single  cup  at 
each  meal — and  of  the  two,  tea  seems  to  be  generally  preferable  to 
coffee.  Of  ale  or  wine,  a  glass  or  two  are  all  that  is  allowed. 

Weston,  in  his  great  walk,  ate  those  articles  that  best  suited 
him,  but  used  no  alcohol.  The  query  may  be  raised  whether  the 
vertigo  from  which  he  suffered,  and  which  caused  his  failure,  might 
not  have  been  prevented  if  he  had  taken  some  wine  or  beer,  instead 
of  tea  and  coffee.  King,  an  English  athlete,  in  training,  took  for  his 
breakfast  two  lean,  rare  mutton  chops,  stale  bread  and  one  cup  of 
tea  without  sugar;  for  dinner,  one  or  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of 
beef  or  mutton,  toast  or  stale  bread,  a  little  potato  or  other  vege- 
tables, half-a-pint  of  old  ale,  or  a  glass  or  two  of  sherry,  or  one  cup 
of  tea  without  sugar,  or  eggs  and  dry  toast;  for  supper,  half-a-pint 
of  oatmeal  porridge  or  half-a-pint  of  old  ale. 

The  effect  of  this  exclusive  diet  is  to  reduce  the  fat,  in  some 
cases  quite  rapidly,  and  thus  it  answers  the  purpose  ;  but,  if  con- 
tinued too  long,  it  becomes  wearisome  and  injurious.  When  athletes 
return  to  the  usual  habits  of  eating  they  sometimes  rapidly  increase 
in  weight.  In  their  experiments  in  dieting,  athletes  have  made  most 
serious  blunders.  At  the  time  of  the  International  Boat-race  between 
Harvard  and  Oxford,  the  American  crew  ate  largely  of  vegetables,  and 
relatively  less  of  meat  than  the  English  crew.  If  the  Americans  had 
allowed  they  rivals  to  prescribe  a  dietary  for  them,  they  could 
scarcely  have  made  a  worse  selection.  There  is  little  question  that, 
the  race  was  lost  to  the  Americans  on  account  of  their  unfortunate 
system  of  athletic  training.  They  failed  not  for  lack  of  native 
strength,  in  which  they  were  superior  to  their  rivals,  but  from  lack 
of  staying  power.  On  what  principle  our  oarsmen  persisted  .in  con- 
fining themselves  to  a  diet  which  all  experience  has  shown  is 


Indigestion  Dies  where  Napa  Soda  Lives 


140  THK    INNE^R    MAN 

unfitted  to  sustain  amid  the  severest  muscular  exertion,  in  our 
climate  at  least,  we  never  could  well  understand.  We  suspect, 
however,  that  it  was  inspired  by  some  of  the  many  popular  treatises 
on  diet  by  which  ignorant  writers  have  wrought  so  much  evil. 

"  Good  wine  is  a  good  familiar  creature,  if  it  be  well  used ; — 
Exclaim  no  more  against  it !" 

OTHKLI^O. — Shakespeare. 

J.  GUNDLACH  &  GO'S  famous  Table- Wines  have  succeeded 
in  establishing-  for  themselves  a  most  creditable  recognition.  Over 
thirty  years'  experience  and  skillful  efforts  have  slowly  crystallized 
into  gratifying  results.  The  vineyard  property  of  the  firm,  located 
near  the  old  townsite  of  Sonoma,  where,  in  early  days,  the  emblem 
of  liberty,  the  old  historical  Bear  flag  was  first  hoisted,  is  one  of  the 
most  favored  wine  districts  of  our  State.  When  the  possibilities  of 
California  as  a  wine  producing  country  were  still  in  its  infancy,  J. 
Gundlach,  the  pioneer  brewer  of  San  Francisco,  undertook  the  then 
(1858)  remarkable  task  of  planting  and  cultivating  500  acres  in 
grapevines.  Success  followed  his  enterprise  for  years,  but  the  phyl- 
loxera has  since  destroyed  every  vestige  of  the  original  plantation, 
and  the  vineyard  had  to  be  re-established  on  the  roots  of  the  Ameri- 
can resistant  vines  at  enormous  expense.  The  best  known  varieties 
of  phylloxera- proof  vines  have  been  successfully  grafted  and  propa- 
gated with  acknowledged  specialties  of  European  vintages  including 
the  delicious  Johannisberg  and  famous  Medoc  types.  The  vineyards 
of  J.  Gundlach  &  Co.,  well  known  under  the  name  of  "  Rhinefarm, 
Sonoma,"  are  once  again  in  a  flourishing  condition  and  yielding  their 
golden  and  purple  juice  in  old-time  generosity. 

California  Sauternes,  Hocks,  Burgundies,  and  Medocs,  of  untar- 
nished purity  and  acknowledged  merit,  are  sold  by  the  firm  at  rea- 
sonable prices.  Their  salesroom  and  retail  cellars  are  at  the  corner 
of  Market  and  Second  streets.  Their  large  shipping-warehouses  and 
wholesale  cellars 

"  BACCHUS   WINE   VAULTS," 

with  a  storage  capacity  of  two  million  gallons,  are  located  at  438-444 
Bryant  street,  near  Third.  Their  principal  Eastern  Depot  is  at  52 
Warren  street,  New  York. 

We  feel  justified  in  classifying  the  products  of  Gundlach 's 
''Rhinefarm"  among  the  best  vintages  in  California,  and  will  not 
hesitate  to  recommend  the  same  to  connoisseurs  and  admirers  of  a 
real  fine,  old,  ripe  table-wine,  for  their  well  deserved  standard  of 
excellence  and  superiority. 


THE    INNER    NIAN  141 

BEN.  J.  GOLDMAN. — The  pleasures  that  dwell  in  tobacco  are 
infinite.  It  soothes  the  weary  soul,  no  matter  in  what  form  it  may 
be  enjoyed,  it  promotes  digestion,  and  dissipates  care.  Ben.  J.  Gold- 
man, 817  Market  street  (the  Academy  building),  is  a  cigar  expert 
of  the  first  water.  Mr.  Goldman  has  been  a  long  time  in  the  business, 
and  thoroughly  understands  the  nature  of  tobacco  in  all  its  moods  and 
tenses.  Now  there  is  much  to  be  said  about  the  disposition  of  those 
who  use  the  weed.  Not  a  few  enter  Mr  Goldman's  handsome  emporium 
quite  undecided  about  the  exact  quality  of  the  cigar  in  which  they 
are  about  to  indulge.  If  immediately  after  dinner,  they  imagine  a 
strong,  high  flavored  cigar  would  meet  the  exigencies  of  the  case. 
Yet  again,  they  fear  that  it  might  be  too  much  for  their  nerves.  In 
affairs  of  this  nature  Goldman  decides  for  them,  and  provides  them 
with  the  happy  medium  which  is  just  what  they  wanted,  though  not 
previously  aware  of  that  fact.  Goldman  keeps  the  finest  brands  of 
imported  cigars,  at  all  prices,  and  also  a  good  line  of  the  domestic 
article — a  nice  smoke,  at  cheaper  rate,  of  sound,  wholesome  tobacco. 
His  importations  are  from  the  most  famous  houses  of  Havana,  and 
the  result  is  that  those  who  once  cross  Goldman's  threshold  come 
again  and  again  when  the  cigar  appetite  is  upon  them. 


Ladies  Drink  Napa   Soda  for  Complexion 


CHAPTER   XVII 


DIETABY  OP  BRITISH  SOLDIERS  IN  TIME  OF  PEACE — A  MODEL  DIET — How  FOOD 
MAY  BE  ADULTERATED— POISONOUS  WATER 


object  aimed  at  in  the  construction  of  dietaries 
for  prisons,  work-houses,  and  for  soldiers  and 
sailors,  is  to  obtain  the  best  possible  variety  of 
nutriment  for  the  character  and  duties  of  the  class 
for  whom  it  is  designed,  at  the  least  possible 
expense.  For  those  who  are  their  own  masters 
in  all  respects,  and  have  tolerably  abundant  means,  dietaries  are 
useless.  Let  them  select  of  all  the  wide  range  what  suits  them  in 
quality  and  in  quantity,  and  they  cannot  go  far  wrong.  But  for  the 
classes  mentioned,  dietaries  of  some  kind — good  or  bad — are  essential; 
and  it  is  the  part  of  science  to  search  out  the  lessons  derived  from 
experience  and  apply  them  to  the  wants  of  the  poor,  unfortunate 
and  the  dependent.  It  is  almost  needless  to  say  that  the  range 
of  sustaining  diet  is  exceedingly  wide,  and  that  any  dietary 
based  on  an  average  of  this  kind  must  be  much  too  little  for 
some,  and  little,  or  perhaps  a  good  deal,  too  much  for  others. 
Experiment  shows  that  in  prison  men  cannot  live  on  one  pound 
of  bread  a  day;  and  that  the  poor  needle- women  can  barely  keep 
from  dying  on  a  diet  of  one  and  a  halt  pounds  of  bread  and  one 
ounce  of  dripping  daily.  It  is  found  by  experiment,  that  in  prisons 
those  who  work  must  have  more  to  eat  than  those  who  are  idle. 
Dr.  Edward  Smith  has  shown  that  for  the  adult  male  operatives  of 
Lancashire,  two  pounds  and  four  ounces  of  bread  sustain  life;  but 
he  regards  this  as  a  famine  diet.  In  regard  to  the  quality  of  food  for 
dietaries,  it  has  been  demonstrated  by  Playfair,  Voit  and  Pettenkofer 
that  an  average  adult,  at  work,  requires:  of  nitrogenous  matter, 
5.22  oz.;  of  carbonaceous  matter,  22.38  oz.  When  perfectly  idle, 
half  of  this  may  suffice.  In  regard  to  the  proportion  of  the  nitro- 
genous to  the  carbonaceous  matter,  it  has  been  estimated  that  one 
part  of  the  former  to  five  or  six  of  the  latter  is  about  correct;  but  this 
proportion  is  open  to  great  modifications,  and  for  a  limited  period  it 

144 


THE    IXXKR    MAN  141 

is  possible  to  work  hard,  with  brain  or  muscle,  on  a  diet  that  is 
exclusively  carbonaceous — starch,  sugar,  oils  and  fat;  or  on  one  that 
is  exclusively  nitrogenous,  as  meats.  But  the  appetite,  which 
knows  more  and  better  than  any  of  us  about  these  matters,  soon 
calls  for  variety,  and  will  soon  have  it,  if  it  can  be  obtained.  In  the 
construction  of  dietaries,  where  it  is  not  designed  to  punish  by  star- 
vation, it  is  necessary  to  adopt  a  very  liberal  estimate,  so  that  every 
individual  shall  be  sure  to  have  enough  of  both  departments  of  food. 
Women  require  one-tenth  less  than  men  for  the  threefold  reason — 
that  they  weigh  less,  that  their  brains  are  about  one-tenth  less  than 
that  of  man  and  because  they  do  less  work.  The  dietary  of  the 
British  soldier  on  home  service  fairly  represents  the  military  dietaries 
of  Europe  and  America.  It  is  as  follows:  meat,  12  oz. ;  bread,  24  oz.; 
potatoes,  1 6  oz.;  other  vegetables,  8  oz.;  coffee,  0.33  oz.;  tea,  0.16  oz.; 
sugar,  1.33  oz.;  milk,  3.25  oz.;  salt,  0.25  oz. — total,  65.32  oz. 
A  model  diet  for  this  climate,  and  for  adult  males  of  average  health, 
should  contain  about  thirty-five  ounces  of  dry  food,  composed  of 
about  one-half  or  one-third  water;  three  or  four  ounces  of  flesh- 
forming,  and  twelve  or  fifteen  ounces  of  heat-giving  material.  In 
the  so-called  heat-giving  materials  the  proportion  of  carbo-hydrates 
to  fat  should  be  about  three  to  one.  The  amount  of  carbon  should 
vary  between  five  and  ten  ounces,  according  to  the  season,  labor,  etc. 
Vegetables  and  fruits  are  here  included.  Water  to  the  extent  of 
about  fifty  to  one  hundred  ounces,  according  to  season,  etc.  It  has 
been  estimated  that  the  body,  on  the  average,  needs  nine  parts  of  fat, 
twenty-two  parts  of  flesh-forming  substances,  and  sixty-nine  parts 
of  sugar  and  starch.  Experience  shows  that  this  proportion  is  not 
far  from  correct.  The  intuitions  of  mankind  have  long  discovered 
this  fact  and  acted  upon  it.  When  any  article  of  food  is  deficient, 
we  supplement  it  by  something  that  will  compensate  for  these 
deficiencies,  if  we  can  get  it.  A  man  in  his  own  country  will 
take  about  from  i-26th  to  i-2oth  of  his  weight  of  solid  or  liquid 
food;  that  is,  from  80  to  120  ounces  by  weight.  The  proportion 
of  solid  to  liquid  is  1:2  or  1:1  ;  but  varies  exceedingly.  In  all 
solid  food  there  is  a  greater  or  less  percentage  of  water.  Eliminating 
this,  we  find  that  the  average  Englishman  takes  of  dry  food  from 
22  oz.  to  23  oz.;  of  water,  from  60  oz.  to  90  oz.  Dr.  Dobell  has  pre- 
pared the  following  normal  diet  tables,  that  are  perhaps  as  reliable 
as  any.  They  are  reliable  so  far  as  they  accord  with  experience,  and 
must,  of  course,  be  varied  greatly  by  season,  temperature,  occupation, 
etc.  It  has  been  estimated  that  the  average  consumption  of  dry  food 

I.  M.     10 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


146  THE>  INNER   MAN 

for  men,  in  health,  is  from  700  to  750  pounds  a  year,  or  about  two 
pounds  daily,  with  five  or  six  pounds  of  water.  Food  for  twenty- 
four  hours  — 

No.  1                                OB.  No.  2                 Oz. 

Meat,  poultry  or  game...     6  Bread  ....................  18 

Fish  .............................    4  Cheese  ..................    3^ 

Bread  ...........................  10  Bacon  ....................     3 

Potatoes  ........................     8  Sugar  ....................     1% 

Rice  .............................     2  Milk  .............  ........     5~ 

Sugar  ...........................     2*4  Chocolate  ..............  20 

Butter  ...........................     2>£  T«a  .......................  21 

Milk   (liquid)  .................     5  Water  ............  .  ......  20 

Coffee      "       .................  16 

Tea          "       .................  16  Total  .....  92 

Water      "       .................  17 

Total  .....  89 

No.  3                               OZ.  No.  4              Oz. 

Oatmeal  ........................  16  Bread  ....................  25 

Milk  .............................  22  Cheese  ..................     3% 

Butter  ...........................     1%  Butter  ..................     2 

Sugar  ...........................       %  Water  ....................  60 

Water  ...........................  49 

-  Total  .....  90X 

Total  ..... 


It  will  be  observed  that  all  these  tables  contain  all  the  necessary 
variety  and  quantity  of  food.  The  object  of  adulterating  food  is 
threefold.  I.  To  increase  its  weight  or  size.  2.  To  lessen  the 
expense  of  manufacture.  3.  To  give  it  attractive  color  and  taste. 
When  a  dealer  adds  a  substance  to  food  for  any  of  these  purposes, 
the  main  object  is  the  same  —  to  make  money  by  fraud.  Bakers' 
bread  is  adulterated  with  potatoes,  beans,  rice,  ryemealand  cornmeal, 
all  of  which  are  harmless  and  nutritious,  and  with  alum  to  give  it 
superior  lightness  and  whiteness.  Flour  is  also  adulterated  with 
clay,  bone  dust  and  carbonate  of  magnesia.  Arrow-root  of  the  first 
quality  is  adulterated  with  cheaper  roots  and  starches.  Milk  is 
chiefly  diluted  with  water,  but  sometimes  burnt  sugar,  salt,  bi-car- 
bonate  of  soda,  gum,  flour,  sugar  or  starch  are  added.  Butter  is 
adulterated  with  lard,  water  and  with  a  larger  quantity  of  salt  than 
is  needed  to  preserve  it  ;  and  lard  itself  is,  in  turn,  adulterated  with 
water  and  salt.  Sugar  is  adulterated  for  weight  with  lead  and  iron, 
and  refined  sugar  by  wheat  flour.  The  adulterations  that  are  most 
injurious  are  those  used  in  giving  color  and  taste  to  confectionery. 
Our  popular  candies  are  adulterated  for  bulk  and  weight  with  starch 
and  flour,  which  are  harmless  enough,  and  with  clay,  chalk  and 


THE   IXNER    MAX  1*7 

plaster  of  Paris.  Among  other  substances  used  for  giving  color  and 
so  forth  to  confectionery,  are  cochineal,  Prussian  blue,  indigo, 
ultramarine,  carbonates  of  copper  and  lead,  cobalt,  verdigris,  gamboge, 
Brunswick  green,  arsenite  of  copper,  ochre  powders.  Among  the 
condiments,  vinegar  is  adulterated  with  water,  spirits  of  nitre,  burnt 
sugar,  fusel  oil  and  acetic  acid  ;  ginger  with  Cheyenne  pepper,  tur- 
meric and  cornmeal  ;  Cheyenne  pepper  with  brick-dust,  salt,  red 
ochre,  cornmeal,  red  lead  and  Venetian  red,  rice  and  cinnabar ; 
mustard,  with  flour,  salt  and  turmeric  ;  cinnamon  is  adulterated  with 
cassia,  and  this  in  turn  with  sugar  and  wheat  flour  and  arrow-root ; 
curry  with  Jead,  mercury,  iron,  salt,  rice  and  potato  flour.  Salts  of 
copper  are  sometimes  added  to  pickles  to  improve  their  color.  It 
will  be  seen  that  aside  from  coloring  matter  of  confectionery,  most  of 
the  adulterations  of  positive  food,  as  of  stimulants  and  narcotics,  are 
comparatively  harmless  and  do  more  injury  to  the  moral  sense  of  the 
trader  than  to  the  health  of  the  consumer.  Probably  no  article  of 
food  is  so  frequently  poisonous  to  individuals  as  water.  Analysis  of . 
the  principal  drinking  waters  shows  that  most  of  them  contain 
poison  ;  that  perfectly  pure  water,  in  which  no  poison  can  be  found, 
is  usually  unpalatable.  Whether  the  earthly  ingredients  of  our 
drinking  waters  exert  a  poisonous  influence  depends  on  the  individ- 
ual temperament,  the  habits  and  state  of  the  health.  Waters  which 
contain  a  variety  of  mineral  poisons  are  oftentimes  regarded  as 
medicinal ;  and  nearly  all  the  popular  springs  derive  their  popularity 
from  the  mineral  substances  which  they  contain.  The  chief  ingre- 
dient of  water  that  exerts  a  markedly  poisonous  effect  in  our  large 
cities  is  lead,  which  comes  from  the  pipes  ;  there  is  little  doubt  that 
the  use  of  lead  pipes  is  always  attended  with  more  or  less  danger, 
but  a  certain  amount  of  lead  can  be  taken  without  injury.  In  sus- 
ceptibility to  the  poison  of  lead,  individuals  widely  vary.  Dr.  Angus 
Smith  says  that  some  persons  are  affected  by  a  fortieth  of  a  grain, 
others  by  one-tenth.  Dr.  Parkes  regards  any  quantity  as  unsafe. 
Experiments  have  shown  that  the  cochituate  water  is  never  free  from 
lead ;  that  the  pipes  which  convey  hot  water  are  more  rapidly  cor- 
roded than  those  that  convey  cold  water  and  yet  ' '  no  well  authen- 
ticated case  of  bad  poisoning ' '  from  the  Boston  water  has  come  to 
the  knowledge  of  the  State  Board  of  Health,  "although  lead  pipe  is 
almost  universally  used  for  distribution."  It  is  not  improbable, 
however,  that  many  obscure  cases  of  nervous  diseases  are  caused  by 
the  slow  action  of  lead  taken  daily  into  the  system  in  the  water. 
Water  may  also  acquire  poisonous  properties  from  the  contents  of 


Do  you  Drink  ?    Then  Napa  Soda  is  your  Tipple 


148  THE    INNER    MAN 

sewers,  cess-pools  and  so  forth,  or  from  substances  that  are  thrown 
,  into  wells  and  cisterns  or  from  animals  that  fall  into  and  are  drowned 
in  them. 

JOHN  L.  BEARDS'  WINERY.— The  Marciana  Vineyard  at 
Warm  Springs,  Alameda  County,  owned  and  cultivated  by  Mr. 
John  L.  Beard,  contains  two  hundred  acres  of  that  rolling  Mission 
land,  the  soil  of  which  is  so  admirably  adapted  for  the  growth  of 
every  description  of  European  grape.  Mr.  Beard,  who  has  traveled 
extensively  among  the  vinelands  of  the  old  countries,  has  made  the 
study  of  viticulture  an  absorbing  pursuit,  and  has  succeeded  in 
producing  some  oi  the  best  wines  grown  on  California  soil.  Among 
the  varieties  from  his  cellars  may  be  named  the  Marciana,  Matador, 
Burgundy,  Zinfandel,  Sweet  Muscat,  Port,  Golden  Chasselas,  and 
other  brands. 

It  is  claimed  that  wine  produced  in  vineyards  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  bay  receives  the  properties  of  age  much  sooner  than  wine  grown 
in  the  interior.  Certain  it  is  that  the  output  of  the  Marciana  vineyard 
has  all  the  richness  of  color  and  the  mellow  quality  of  a  very  old 
wine,  and  is  most  popular  among  the  epicurean  wine  consumers  of 
this  city,  where  it  is  handled  by  the  leading  wine  dealers. 

An  enthusiastic  lover  of  Marciana  has  celebrated  some  of  its 
qualities  in  the  following  epigrammatic  verse  : 

When  at  the  board  my  glass  I  raise 

With  Marciana  brimming  over, 
I  drink,  and  gleeful  chant  its  praise, 

Even  as  the  passion  weaiied  lover 
With  lips  that  breathe  love's  ardent  sighs 
Will  pledge  in  wine  his  lady's  eyes. 

I  pledge  in  wine  my  lady's  eyes 

For  she  is  ever  near  me, 
Her  ruby  lips,  those  lips  I  prize 

Are  ever  by  to  cheer  me, 
Ah,  Marciana,  queen  of  mine 
Thou  art  my  love,  imperial  wine. 

The  color,  flavor  and  body  cf  these  wines  cannot  be  excelled  in 
any  other  portion  of  the  State.  They  are  handled  with  the  utmost 
care,  and  only  the  really  perfect  vintages  are  ever  put  on  the  market. 
Of  the  Marciana  vineyard  forty  acres  are  devoted  to  the  culture 
of  the  table  grape.  Among  these  varieties  are  the  Cornichon,  the 
Black  Ferara,  the  Flaming  Tokay,  Verdel,  Rose  of  Peru,  Muscat 


THE  INNER    MAN  14» 

and  Emperor.  These  are  shipped  to  the  fruit  markets  of  the  Hast, 
where  the  demand  for  them  is  always  increasing,  showing  the  high 
appreciation  in  which  they  are  held.  It  is  a  remarkable  fact  that 
the  old  missionaries  had  the  faculty  of  selecting  the  best  soils  for  the 
cultivation  of  the  grape.  To  this,  combined  with  the  energy  and 
skill  Mr.  Beard  has  exercised  in  the  production  and  handling  of  his 
wines,  may  be  attributed  the  reputation  the  Marciana  Vineyard  now 
enjoys  in  this  State. 

GRAND  HOTEL  SALOON.— The  Grand  Hotel  Saloon, 
Edward  Fay  proprieter,  is  noted  not  alone  for  the  good  things  it 
furnishes  in  eating  and  drinking,  but  also  for  the  works  of  art  that 
hang  upon  its  walls.  This  epigrammatic  sentence  does  not  contain  , 
a  particle  of  exaggeration.  It  is  well  known  that  in  the  saloons  of 
this  city  are  found  some  of  the  rarest  and  most  valuable  paintings 
on  the  coast.  Mr.  Fay  has  ever  been  on  the  alert  to  secure  works  of 
the  celebrated  artists  of  the  old  world,  regardless  of  cost. 

The  first  impression  the  stranger  receives  on  entering  the  Grand 
Hotel  saloon,  is  the  extreme  taste  and  richness  of  its  decorations. 
The  floor  is  of  the  finest  marble,  and  a  bewildering  array  of  the 
most  beautiful  crystals  is  reflected  from  a  superb  mirror  extending 
the  entire  length  of  the  bar.  The  grand  life-size  paintings  on  the 
walls  will  next  command  his  attention.  "Cynthia  and  the  Doves," 
a  masterpiece  by  Lionel  Royer,  is  a  noble  nude  figure,  the  drawing 
and  pose  of  which  is  the  admiration  of  all  critics.  "The  Dream," 
by  Souchon,  a  celebrated  French  artist,  represents  a  sleeping  girl, 
whose  bare  arms  are  extended  in  graceful  abandon,  and  whose 
swelling  bosom  is  but  partially  concealed  by  the  drapery  of  the 
luxurious  couch  on  which  sbe  reclines.  The  face  is  one  of  classic 
beauty,  the  lips  are  half  parted,  the  long  silken  lashes  lie  upon  the 
rounded  cheek,  but  withal  there  is  nothing  sensual  or  suggestive 
about  the  picture.  "The  Surprise,"  a  life-size  nude,  by  I.  Balla- 
joina,  took  a  prize  at  the  Paris  Salon,  and  is  remarkable  in  the 
realistic  handling  of  the  flesh  tints.,  and  the  exquisite  contour  of  the 
queenly  figure.  In  addition  to  these  is  the  "The  Wa*ter  Carriers," 
by  A.  Roufsolieu,  also  a  salon  picture,  and  one  of  rare  excellence, 
and  "An  Early  California  Scene,"  an  immense  canvas  by  Charles 
Narjot,  which  for  many  years  hung  in  the  Crocker  gallery. 
A  superb  bronze  figure,  a  Japanese  girl,  stands  upon  the  bar.  The 
Saloon  is  lighted  throughout  with  incandescent  lights,  and  is  ele- 
gantly frescoed. 

Ghiradelli's  Breakfast  Cocoa.     The  Best 


150  THE    INNER 

So  much  for  the  art  features  of  this  handsome  resort,  but  it 
must  be  remembered  that  while  the  eyes  are  delighted  with  these 
masterpieces  of  the  painter's  brush,  the  inner  man  receives  special 
attention. 

Mr.  Fay,  himself  an  epicure,  pays  the  strictest  attention  to  the 
supplying  of  his  patrons  with  the  best  line  of  wines  and  spirits  that 
can  be  procured  in  the  market.  The  result  of  this  conscientious 
care  is  evinced  in  the  class  of  gentlemen  who  make  the  Grand  Hotel 
saloon  their  rendezvous. 

The  noon  lunch  is  another  attraction.  All  the  good  things  in 
season  are  furnished  at  the  lunch  counter  in  quantity,  cooked  and 
served  in  the  best  possible  manner.  Nothing  is  left  undone  to  make 
the  guests  of  the  house  feel  that  they  are  receiving  every  atten  ion, 
and  that  the  elegance  of  their  surroundings  is  only  a  portion  of  the 
pleasures  they  enjoy. 

CALIFORNIA  HOUSE. —The  California  House,  624-626 
California  street,  is  a  household  word  among  the  epicures  of  San 
Francisco.  It  is  among  the  most  picturesque  restaurants  of  the  City, 
cool,  pleasant  and  sequestrated  from  the  noise  and  bustle  of  the  streets. 
Mr.  Germain  Pouchan,  the  proprietor  of  this  highly  esteemed  estab- 
lishment, is  an  expert  in  the  art  of  the  cuisine,  and  nothing  is  placed 
on  the  tables  of  the  California  House  that  is  not  worthy  of  the 
appreciation  of  the  most  critical. 

The  wines  are  selected  from  the  best  brands  and  the  service  is 
absolutely  faultless.  A  desirable  rendezvous  for  a  social  banquet,  a 
celebration  or  a  quiet  tete-a-tete  dinner  is  the  California  House. 


A  Napa  Soda  Lemonade  is  a  Luxury 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

DIET  MODIFIED   BY    SEXES — FEMALE  BOARDING   SCHOOLS — DIET  MODIFIED  BY 
THE  PROGRESS  OP  CIVILIZATION. 


IN  EMINENT  AUTHORITY  on  the  inner  man  is  Dr. 
Beard,  an  Eastern  scientist,  from  whom  I  have  largely 
borrowed  in  the  preparation  of  this  volume.  Speak- 
ing of  the  gentler  sex  he  remarks  that  women  are 
smaller  and  lighter  than  men,  and,  therefore,  other 
conditions  being  the  same,  would  need  less  quan- 
tity of  nutriment.  Other  conditions  are,  however 
not  the  same,  for  in  some  countries  woman  works  more,  and  in 
other  countries  less  than  man. 

In  barbarous  lands  woman  is  the  slave  of  man,  and  performs 
menial  tasks  ;  in  civilizations  a  little  advanced,  she  often  shares  with 
him  the  labors  of  the  field,  shop  and  counting-room  ;  in  the  most 
enlightened  nations  woman  is  the  toy,  the  companion  or  ornamental 
appendage  to  man,  and  in  certain  social  states  uses  her  brain  but 
little  and  in  trivial  matters,  and  her  muscle  scarcely  at  all.  The 
brain  of  woman  is  about  one- tenth  less  in  weight  than  that  of  man, 
and  the  amount  of  brainwork  of  most  severe  kind  is  incomparably 
less  than  that  which  man  performs. 

Those  who  toil  hard  with  the  brain  need  a  liberal  supply  of 
first-class  nourishment.  In  proportion  as  woman  thinks  less  than 
man  in  that  proportion,  so  long  as  she  uses  her  muscles  but  little, 
she  needs  less  food  than  man. 

Observation  shows  that  woman  almost  everywhere,  in  civilized 
lands  at  least,  eats  less  than  man.  And  in  countries  like  the 
United  States,  where  she  is  nervous  and  sickly  and  slender,  she 
needs  different  quality  of  food  from  that  which  is  agreeable  to  the 
hardier  sex.  The  wives  and  daughters  of  farmers  who,  during  the 
winter  perhaps,  never  leave  the  house,  and  who  forgetting  the 
example  of  their  mothers  before  them,  with  strange  perversity 
prefer  the  parlor  to  the  kitchen,  the  piano  to  the  cooking  stove  and 

152 


THE    IIstrvtER    IMAM  lc-3 

wash-tub,    must   not   only   eat   less  but  eat  differently   from  their 
husbands  and  brothers  who  toil  from  sun  to  sun  in  the  open  field. 

The  diet  of  female  boarding  schools  is  of  sufficient  importance 
t6  entitle  it  to  separate  and  special  consideration,  and  a  volume 
might  well  be  devoted  to  it.  Among  the  manifold  causes  of  the 
delicacy  and  nervousness  of  American  women,  slow  starvation  at 
school  is  one  of  the  most  prominent.  In  obedience  to  the  old,  but 
fortunately  waning,  superstition  that  the  mind  can  be  cultivated 
only  at  the  expense  of  the  body,  that  whatever  is  pleasant  must 
necessarily  be  pernicious,  and  that  the  benefits  of  any  system  of  diet, 
as  of  exercise,  is  exactly  in  proportion  to  its  disagreeableness. 

The  managers  of  boarding  schools  have  prescribed  dietaries, 
that  oftentimes  more  than  neutralize  the  good  effects  of  their  teaching. 
Fashion  has  joined  hands  with  superstition,  and  through  fear  of 
looking  gross  or  healthy,  or  of  incurring  the  horror  of  the  disciples 
of  Lord  Byron,  our  young  ladies  live  all  their  growing  girlhood  in 
semi-starvation,  they  become  thin  and  poor,  their  nerves  become 
painfully  sensitive,  and  when  they  marry  they  give  birth  to  starv- 
lings.  All  the  other  conditions  of  race,  climate,  season,  age,  sex, 
being  the  same,  or  as  nearly  the  same  as  possible,  the  food  varies 
with  the  temperament  in  a  manner  at  once  striking  and  mysterious. 

There  are  idiosyncrasies  in  the  matter  of  diet  that  defy  expla- 
nation, and  probably  can  be  understood  only  when  the  mystery  of 
life  itself  is  solved.  This  applies  not  only  to  positive  but  to  nega- 
tive food,  and  to  all  our  principal  medicines.  Bven  quinine  has 
been  known  in  a  few  instances  to  produce  a  peculiar  and  disagree- 
able eruption  on  the  skin.  Some  cannot  bear  mutton,  others  are 
made  ill  by  pear,  or  watermelon  or  cucumber.  All  these  peculiari- 
ties are  strange  enough,  but  no  more  strange  than  other  peculiarities 
of  appetite  or  taste.  Why  it  is  that  one  likes  tomatoes  or  peaches, 
or  ice-cream,  or  liver,  or  melons,  or  brown-bread,  and  another  is 
indifferent  to  all  these  things,  or  is,  perhaps,  disgusted  at  the  sight 
of  them,  is  a  problem  as  unsolvable  as  the  origin  of  existence. 
To  those  who  are  impatient  that  such  caprices  are  not  explained, 
the  best  reply  is  to  say  that  they  are  no  more  mysterious  than  that 
we  should  exist  at  all.  One  thing  is  clear  that  they  must,  to  a 
certain  extent,  be  abandoned,  and  those  articles  that  poison  any  of 
us  must  be  refused,  even  though  they  be  food  to  all.  As  by  long 
practice,  one  who  at  first  is  repelled  by  the  odor  of  tobacco  can 
become  so  accustomed  to  it  that  ten  pipes  or  cigars  are  a  pleasure 
and  a  luxury,  so  many  varieties  of  ordinary  nutriment  can  be  forced 


Ghiradelli's  Vanilla  Chocolate.     The  Best 


THE:    INNKR    MAN 


on  the  system,  and  the  system  can  be  gradually  adapted  to  it,  so 
that  what  originally  was  pernicious  to  it  becomes  nutritive  and 
agreeable. 

The  truth  of  this  statement  is  demonstrated  by  daily  experience 
of  individuals  and  by  the  experience  of  humanity  in  all  parts  of  the 
globe.  Travelers  are  witnesses  to  the  truth  of  this  statement,  for 
they  wear  themselves  to  the  dietetic  habits  of  the  people  among 
whom  they  reside,  and  are  frequently  benefitted  rather  than  injured 
by  these  radical  changes  of  life.  It  is  a  part  of  the  conditions  of  life, 
a  part  of  the  law  of  evolution,  that  we  should  be  able  to  adapt 
ourselves  to  the  diet  that  we  find  as  much  as  to  all  other  conditions 
of  environment. 

In  Africa  some  become  so  accustomed  to  the  terrible  forest 
poison  that  they  can  drink  it  by  the  bowlful  without  harm.  It  is 
an  essential  inference  from  all  the  facts  that  have  been  advanced 
relating  to  the  eating  customs  of  different  countries  that  the  food  of 
civilization  must  be  different  in  quantity  and  quality  from  that  of 
barbarism.  The  thoughtful,  cultured  European  or  American  is  a 
being  as  different  from  the  savage  African  or  Australian  as  the 
Africans  or  Australians  are  different  from  the  higher  order  of  apes, 
and  correspondingly  his  food  must  differ  from  that  of  the  savage,  as 
the  food  of  the  savage  differs  from  that  of  the  ape.  Nay,  more,  the 
gulf  that  separates  Shakespere  and  Newton  from  the  Papuan  is 
wider  than  that  which  separates  the  Papuan  from  the  gorilla  and 
the  chimpanzee,  and  therefore  it  is  easier  for  the  lowest  order  of 
human  beings  to  live  after  the  manner  of  the  apes  than  for  the 
highest  order  of  humanity  to  live  after  the  manner  of  savages. 
The  difference  between  the  savage  and  the  civilized  consists  mainly 
in  the  larger,  richer  and  finer  development  of  the  brain  and  nervous 
system. 

The  advantage  of  the  enlightened  European  or  American  over 
the  lowest  races  in  size  of  brain  is  great,  but  the  advantage  in 
quality  of  brain  is  far  greater.  This  finer  quality  of  brain  in  highly 
advanced  races  is  revealed  by  the  correlated  conformation  of  the 
features,  by  the  fineness  and  softness  of  the  skin  and  hair,  and  by 
.general  sensitiveness.  The  trustworthy  descriptions  that  travelers 
give  us  of  the  insensibility  and  coarseness  of  savage  tribes  are 
amazing,  and  show  clearly  enough  that  all  civilization  is  purchased 
at  the  price  of  pain  and  sorrow,  that  all  refinement  has  its  com- 
pensations. When  we  read  the  accounts  of  the  brutality  of  savages 


INIsTKR    MAN  155 

to  each  other  we  shudder,  and  perhaps  lay  aside  the  book  with 
nausea  and  faintness. 

Among  many  African  tribes  the  feeling  of  love  between  man 
and  wife,  as  we  understand  it,  is  not  known  ;  and  it  is  as  customary 
for  husbands  to  flog  their  wives  as  among  us  to  kiss  them.  Whips 
made  of  hippopotamus  hide  are  made  for  this  special  purpose,  and 
if  a  husband  forgets  to  flog  his  wrfe  her  relatives  complain  that  she 
is  badly  treated.  This  custom  prevails  among  a  large  number  of 
barbarous  and  semi-barbarous  races,  and  in  different  parts  of  the 
world ;  and  the  custom  of  flogging  or  bambooing,  and  otherwise 
pounding  the  body  for  slight  offences,  is  common  to  all  except  the 
best  cultured  nations.  In  assuming,  as  most  of  us  do,  that  these 
apparently  cruel  processes  inflict  anything  like  the  amount  of  pain 
on  the  coarse  and  brutal  people  on  whom  they  are  usually  employed, 
we  make  a  great  mistake.  They  probably  suffer  less  from  those 
hideous  tortures  than  we  do  from  reading  an  account  of  them. 

Parkyns  says  that  the  coolness  with  which  the  Abyssinians 
receive  the  punishments  inflicted  on  them  by  their  Turkish  governors 
is  wonderful ;  and  he  rightly  attributes  this  coolness  not  to  mental 
endurance  but  to  physical  incapacity  to  be  pained.  Hundreds  of 
blows  even  aged  culprits  receive  without  ever  crying  out.  For 
a  trifling  reward  they  would  be  willing  to  take  five  hundred 
blows  with  a  lash.  Still  more  remarkably  their  insensibility  is 
proved  by  the  voluntary  treatment  they  give  themselves  or  each 
other.  Their  duels,  which  are  engaged  in  by  young  men  on  the 
slightest  possible  pretext,  are  conducted  by  a  hippopotamus  hide, 
which  makes  furrows  in  the  skin  and  draws  blood  with  every  stroke. 

An  Abyssinian  belle  gashes  her  body  in  order  to  raise  beautiful 
scars,  which  are  there  considered  ornamental.  For  bracelets  they 
tie  a  corrosive  root  around  the  waist  which  eats  into  the  flesh  and 
raises  a  perfect  band  as  thick  as  one's  finger,  and  probably  this 
causes  less  pain  to  her  than  the  mere  pressure  of  an  artificial  bracelet 
on  the  growing  arm  of  an  American  maiden. 

The  stolidity  of  the  North  American  Indians  under  tortures 
that  are  apparently  cruel,  and  the  coolness  with  which  the  Hindoo 
swings  by  hooks  in  his  flesh,  rolls  on  the  ground  for  long  journeys 
and  over  rough  roads,  and  commits  various  and  horrid  acts  of 
religious  devotion  are  quite  familiar,  and  may  all  be  reasonably 
explained. 

The  African  negro  when  he  wishes  to  break  a  stick  breaks  it 
over  his  own  head  instead  of  his  knee,  as  is  the  custom  with  us. 


Napa  Soda  Water  Cures  Dyspepsia 


156  THK    INNKR.    MAM 


Tl'.en  again,  among  many  wild  people,  child-bearing,  which  makes 
a  modern  woman  an  invalid  for  days,  and  weeks,  and  mouths,  is 
usually  all  over  in  from  half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  and  is  not 
attended  with  any  cries  or  tears,  and  the  mother  immediately 
resumes  her  menial  duties.  To  a  less  degree  than  the  same  holds 
good  of  other  nations.  It  is  clear  enough  also  that  the  erratic 
customs  of  the  early  Christians  and  mediaeval  ages,  the  protracted 
floggings  of  our  navies,  the  barbarous  tortures  of  inquisition  and 
the  hideous  civil  punishments  of  various  degrees  of  past  centuries, 
caused  immeasurably  less  actual  suffering  than  they  would  if 
inflicted  on  the  present  descendants  of  those  sufferers. 

We  have  only  to  go  back  one  hundred  or  one  hundred  and  fifty 
years  to  find  in  England  lunatics  treated  as  criminals,  and  punished 
with  whips  and  blows  and  chains;  women  publicly  flogged  at  the 
whipping  post,  branded  with  hot  irons  and  driven  at  the  cart  tail, 
thumbs  tied  with  whip-cord,  both  sexes  and  tender  ages  hung  for 
various  offenses  so  frequently  and  so  publicly  that  London  of  the 
eighteenth  century  has  been  rightly  termed  "the  city  of  the  gallows,  '  ' 
duels  occurring  continually  and  for  the  slightest  pretexts  ;  men  and 
women  taking  part  in  public  sports  with  the  cudgel  and  broadsword, 
bear  and  bull  baiting,  boxing  and  cock-fighting. 

In  nearly  all  barbarous  nations  woman  is  the  slave  of  man,  and 
performs  the  most  toilsome  and  menial  tasks,  but  in  this  position 
her  positive  sufferings  have  probably  been  much  over-estimated. 
The  modern  wife  not  unlikely  experiences  keener  distress,  to  her  at 
least,  from  anxiety  about  the  servants  who  pretend  to  do  her  work. 
Even  very  recently  a  great  change  in  methods  of  punishment 
have  been  inaugurated. 

A  schoolmaster  who  should  flog  the  children  of  the  upper  circles 
of  any  American  city,  as  was  everywhere  done  in  this  country  twenty- 
five  years  ago,  would  be  dismissed  the  first  week.  The  bearings 
of  all  these  facts  on  the  question  of  diet  is  sufficiently  apparent. 

In  the  evolution  of  humanity  all  departments  progress  together 
and  in  harmony  with  each  other,  and  no  one  can  become  refined 
much  in  advance  of  the  rest.  Diet,  like  legislation,  like  social 
amusement,  like  religion  must  change  as  the  race  advances  in  the 
directioa  of  refinement.  The  organization  of  the  average  European 
and  American  of  the  cultured  classes  of  the  present  day  is  so  much 
finer  and  so  much  more  sensitive  than  it  was  one  century,  or  even 
one-quarter  of  a  century  ago,  that  they  cannot  bear  the  same 
medicine,  the  same  stimulants  or  narcotics,  or  the  same  ordinary 


THE    IXNER.    NIAN  15? 

food  that  they  could  then.  What  was  then  appropriate  and  neces- 
sary and  right  for  their  coarser  organizations,  is  for  the  finer 
organization  that  has  developed  with  the  intense  brainwork  of  our 
time  suicidal  or  cruel.  If  our  better  classes  should  persist  in  using 
alcohol  or  tobacco,  or  pork,  in  the  manner  of  our  ancestors  they 
would  soon  become  exterminated.  It  is  astonishing  how  savage 
and  semi-savage  races,  and  coarse,  thick-skinned  organizations 
everywhere  can  bear  those  stimulants  and  those  articles  of  positive 
nutriment  which,  by  the  ruling  classes  of  to-day,  and  especially  of 
this  country,  must  be  used  cautiously. 

So  far  as  can  be  estimated,  there  are  over  six  hundred  millions 
of  people — half  the  population  of  the  globe — who  smoke  tobacco  or 
opium,  or  both,  through  nearly  all  their  waking  hours.  The  four 
hundred  millions  of  China — men,  women  and  children — smoke 
almost  as  constantly  as  they  breathe,  and  in  the  night  if  they  chance 
to  awake  they  seize  a  pipe  and  take  a  few  whiffs.  They  ce"ase  to 
smoke  only  when  they  cease  to  live ;  and  when  the  sick  man  no 
longer  asks  for  his  pipe  the  attendants  prepare  for  his  funeral. 

Burton,  speaking  of  the  East  African,  says:  "He  drinks  till 
he  can  no  longer  stand,  lies  down  to  sleep,  and  awakes  to  drink 
again.  Drinking  bouts  are  solemn  things,  to  which  the  most 
important  business  must  yield  precedence.  They  celebrate  with 
beer  every  event — the  traveler's  return,  the  birth  of  a  child,  and 
the  death  of  an  elephant — a  laborer  will  not  work  unless  beer  is 
provided  for  him.  A  guest  is  received  with  a  gourdful  of  beer,  and 
among  some  tribes  it  is  buried  with  their  princes.  The  highest 
orders  rejoice  in  drink,  and  pride  themselves  upon  their  powers  of 
imbibing.  The  proper  diet  for  a  king  is  much  beer  and  little  meat. 
If  a  Muyamwezi  be  asked  after  eating  if  he  is  hungry  he  will  reply 
u  yes,"  meaning  that  he  is  not  drunk.  Intoxication  excuses  crime 
in  these  lands. 

Livingstone  says  that  at  Angola  funerals  constitute  one  of  the 
principal  recreations,  and  they  are  attended  with  debauchery, 
feasting  and  intemperance.  If  on  these  occasions  a  native  is 
reproved  for  being  drunk  he  will  reply,  "Why,  my  mother  is  dead," 
as  though  no  other  apology  were  needed.  No  longer  ago  than  1805 
it  was  said  of  the  inhabitants  of  certain  districts  of  Scotland  that 
they  experienced  delight  on  hearing  of  the  death  of  a  man  or 
woman  because  of  the  prospect  it  afforded  them  of  getting  their  fill 
of  whisky  ;  and  men  died  saying  "they  would  not  be  happy  unless 
men  were  drunk  and  fought  at  their  funerals." 


Indigestion  Dies  where  Napa  Soda  Lives 


158  THE    INNER    MAN 

Lewes  says,  in  1800  it  was  no  unusual  thing  to  be  a  "three- 
bottle  man' '  in  England  or  Germany.  In  Austria,  at  the  beginning 
of  this  century,  it  was  said  that  dinners  would  sometimes  last  four 
or  five  hours.  A  few  centuries  ago  our  Anglo-Norman  ancestors 
began  every  important  enterprise  with  banquets,  many  of  which 
were  riotous  and  drunken  orgies ;  and  of  the  Icelanders  it  is  said 
that  in  their  feasts  they  indulged  in  the  most  unseemly  exhibitions, 
and  ended  with  throwing  the  bones  at  each  other  across  the  room. 

The  ancient  Grecians,  according  to  Tacitus,  never  undertook 
any  great  affair  without  a  feast.  In  modern  times  the  remains  of 
this  custom  are  preserved  in  the  habits  of  business  men,  who  discuss 
their  business  schemes  in  France  at  breakfast,  and  in  England  at 
dinner  and  in  the  well-known  banquets  of  philanthropic  organiza- 
tions. The  Americans  of  the  present  day,  of  both  sexes,  use  less 
of  alcohol  and  less  of  tobacco  than  any  other  people  on  the  face 
of  the  globe.  There  are  tribes  in  Africa  who  drink  their  ''pombi," 
or  plantain  wine,  from  early  dawn  to  bedtime,  with  a  perseverance 
that  puts  the  beer-drinking  Germans  far  in  the  shade.  But  these 
excesses  in  tobacco  and  alcohol  rarely  seem  to  bring  on  diseases  of 
the  nervous  system,  such  as  a  very  small  percentage  of  indulgence 
in  these  articles  does  with  us. 

Among  all  those  coarse  races,  whatever  their  habits  of  eating 
or  drinking  may  be,  insanity  and  paralysis  are  exceedingly  rare 
affections.  The  same  difference  of  susceptibility  to  stimulants  in 
kind,  though  not  in  degree,  is  seen  in  contrasting  the  present  gen- 
eration of  Americans  with  their  immediate  ancestors.  Few  are  the 
matrons  of  our  time,  among  our  well-to-do  orders,  who  could  smoke 
their  pipes  or  take  their  snuff  without  immediate  and  serious  harm  ; 
and  there  are  few  men  among  the  same  classes  who  could  take  their 
daily  and  hourly  diams  in  the  manner  of  their  fathers.  The  notion 
that  the  greater  susceptibility  of  the  present  generation  to  alcoholic 
liquors  is  due  to  the  fact  of  adulteration  is  mostly  untrue,  for  most 
of  the  adulterations  of  wines  and  liquors  are  comparatively  harmless, 
and  whatever  of  harm  comes  from  their  use  in  these  days  must  be 
charged  to  the  alcohol  they  contain. 

WHEELAND  &  COLLINS.—  That  generous  wine  and  good 
liquor,  when  used  in  moderation,  gladden  the  heart  of  man,  is 
admitted  by  all  who  have  made  a  study  of  the  serious  things  of  this 
life.  The  problem  remains,  however,  where  to  look  for  the  highest 
standard  of  excellence  in  this  regard.  Perhaps  its  easiest  solution 


THE  INNER    NIAI\  159 


is  to  procure  these  pleasant  adjuncts  of  existence  from  reputable 
dealers  only,  those  whose  standing  in  this  regard  is  to  them  far 
more  than  any  profits  that  might  accrue  from  the  sale  of  adulterated 
and  inferior  commodities. 

The  house  of  Wheeland  &  Collins,  327  Montgomery  Street  and 
5 1 1  California  Street,  is  an  establishment  whose  history  is  a  guar- 
antee in  itself  of  the  quality  of  the  wines  and  liquors  sold  to  the 
people  of  San  Francisco.  For  years  those  names  have  been 
as  familiar  as  household  words  to  the  good  livers  of  this  city. 
Situated  as  this  house  is  near  the  center  of  the  business  part  of  the 
city,  in  the  Stevenson  block,  and  extending  through  from  Mont- 
gomery to  California  Streets,  it  has  ever  commanded  the  most 
respectable  c1ass  of  custom. 

Its  founding  dates  from  1866,  and  its  reputation  has  always 
continued  the  same.  Here  one  may  enjoy  the  best  wines,  California 
and  foreign,  ports,  sherries,  champagnes  of  the  most  famous  vintages, 
the  choicest  old  French  and  London  dock  brandies,  cordials  and 
rare  liquors  of  every  variety. 

The  firm  of  Wheeland  &  Collins  does  its  own  importing,  and 
the  large  cellars  extending  under  the  entire  southwest  corner  of 
Montgomery  and  California  Streets,  are  stored  with  an  abundance 
of  the  finest  wdnes  and  spirits. 

The  refreshment  counter  is  the  resort  of  the  epicures  of  the 
city.  The  luscious  meats  that  rest  there  are  without  any  exception 
the  primest  that  can  be  obtained  in  the  market.  There  is  nothing 
served  at  the  Wheeland  &  Collins'  restaurant  which  is  not  the  best 
of  its  kind.  Everything  in  its  season  is  kept  in  the  larder,  and  the 
cooking  is  beyond  criticism.  Here  one  may  get  chops  and  beef- 
steaks cut  in  generous  fashion,  and  prepared  and  served  in  the  most 
admirable  manner.  Game,  roasts,  poultry,  vegetables,  and  not 
forgetting  that  dainty  morsel  a  Welsh  rarebit,  all  that  the  most 
fastidious  taste  can  desire  are  to  be  procured  at  this  favorite  resort 
of  the  men  who  are  judges  of  and  thoroughly  appreciate  the  good 
things  of  life.  For  years  the  same  faces  have  been  seen  under  this 
roof.  The  brightest  professional  men  and  the  leading  merchants  have 
made  this  place  their  rendezvous.  The  menage  is  perfect.  The 
utmost  neatness  and  the  most  precise  discipline  are  always  main- 
tained. The  service  both  at  the  lunch  counter  and  the  bar  is 
beyond  criticism,  and  is  always  under  the  immediate  supervision  of 
Mr.  Wheeland,  and  no  better  trained  staff  of  bar- keepers,  cooks  and 
waiters  could  be  desired.  The  aim  of  the  proprietors  is  to  sustain 
a  reputation  made  many  years  ago  and  they  have  succeeded. 

Ladies  Drink  Napa   Soda  for  Complexion 


160  THE    INNER    N1AN 

NEW  HAMMAM  BATHS.— An  excellent  preparation  for  a 
good  dinner  is  a  bath  at  the  New  Hammam,  218  Post  street,  Dr.  A. 
M.  Loryea,  proprietor.  Dr.  Loryea's  establishment  is  furnished  with 
the  most  modern, appliances  for  the  enjoyment  of  a  Turkish,  Russian 
or  Roman  Bath,  and  the  staff  of  rubbers  and  attendants  are  skillful 
and  courteous.  Here  one  can  indulge  in  that  truly  oriental  luxury, 
and  no  matter  how  great  his  fatigue,  after  being  subjected  to  the 
agreeable  process  of  the  Hammam,  he  arises  like  a  giant  refreshed. 
The  hygienic  properties  of  these  baths  are  widely  recognized.  They 
are  a  panacea  for  a  large  majority  of  the  ills  and  inconveniences  that 
afflict  humanity.  Dr.  Loryea  is  a  physician  of  long  practice,  and  has 
devoted  many  years  to  the  study  of  the  effects  of  this  sort  of  treat- 
ment upon  the  system.  The  New  Hammam  is  open  night  and  day, 
and  quiet  and  order  are  always  maintained,  so  the  guest  may  enjoy 
the  repose  that  succeeds  the  delicious  languor  of  the  bath. 

CONCLUSION 

In  the  preparation  of  this  volume  the  author  has  received 
important  assistance  from  Mr.  Arpad  Haraszthy,  Mr.  William  Wolff, 
Mr.  Charles  Meinecke,  Mr.  W.  B.  Chapman,  Mr.  Charles  A.  Wetmore, 
Mr.  Edward  Palmer,  and  indeed  nearly  all  those  winemakers  and 
importers  who  have  recognized  the  utility  of  a  book  of  this  nat'ire, 
and  whose  names  appear  throughout  its  pages.  Mr.  Chapman,  it 
may  be  added,  is  a  large  importer  of  high-class  French  red  wines, 
and  Sauternes,  the  Chateau  Lafite  1874  (Barton  &  Guestier),  Chateau 
La  Tour  1870  (Barton  &  Guestier),  and  other  celebrated  wines  being 
found  on  the  menus  of  the  leading  restaurants  of  San  Francisco. 


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